Travels in Circassia, Krim-tartary, &c., including a steam voyage down the Danube, from Vienna to Constantinople, and round the Black sea

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TRAVELS

IN

CIRCASSIA,

KRIM-TARTARY, &c.

L STEAM VOrAOE DOWN THE DANUBE, FROM VIENNA T
CONSTANTINOPLE, AND ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

By EDMUND SPENCER, Esq.

Aueur^" TrapdiiiUlit Walim CBM camu," 4c.

A TORKIHH FAMILY PICTURE.

STIiirli dilion.
IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON :

HENBY COLflURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1839.

.574

LONDON:

PHINTBD BY IBOTSON AND PALMIIR,
SAVOY STRBBT, STRAND

W

»

/D..AJ^JLA.^^y^

PREFACE.

The events which have takea place withia the
last few months in Persia, Herat, and India,
and their intimate connexion with Circassia, and
the. other Asiatic countries on the Black Sea,
^hich recently formed the theatre of my wander-
^ings, have induced me to submit to the public a
cheap and revised edition of this work.

Connected as the conquest of Circassia con-
fessedly is, however remotely, with the security of
our Eastern empire, we cannot wonder at the
increasing importance attached to it by men of
every shade of political opinion, nor at the un-
disguised apprehension with which its possible
consummation is regarded. During a long series
of years has Russia unnoticed, unheeded by
slumbering Europe, pursued step by step her

h 2

IV PREFACE.

plans for the subjugation of the Caucasus; but
now for the first time, through the instrumentality
of the free press of England, a knowledge of
the real state of that interesting country has
been conveyed to the most remote corners of the
globe.

The patriotic eflforts of the brave mountaineers
to defend their humble hearths from the grasp
of the invader, and the unequal strife in which
they have been so long engaged,* are appreciated
as they deserve, and their cause has won the
sympathy of every humane and enlightened
man in every part of civilised Europe ; for whe-
ther in Paris or Vienna, in Berlin, Naples, or
Madrid, Circassia is the theme of discussion at
every conversazione ; the most fervent wishes are
breathed for the ultimate success of her arms,
while the oppressor who would destroy her is
branded with every epithet that tyrannous cruelty
deserves.

But will the expressed indignation of Europe
avail to arrest ambition in its career? Will
any demonstration of public opinion, however

* Last year terminated the twelfth campaign of the Rus-
sians against the mountaineers of the Caucasus I A popu-
lation of sixty millions opposed to four ! without any results
being obtained to the invaders, save the erection of a iew
forts on the coasts of the Black Sea.

PREFACE. V

Strong, turn aside a powerful government like
Russia from pursuing a policy when interest
counsels its continuance ? We fear not. It must
therefore be evident that the further encroach-
ments of Russia on the territory of her neigh-
bom's must be met with more powerful weapons
— force to force.

I am no advocate for war, but every man ac-
quainted with the aggrandising policy of Russia
must be aware that the time has arrived when it
is imperative upon us to place a barrier against
the further advances of a power that threatens to
become a dangerous rival — a powerful enemy.

With respect to my travels through Krim-
Tartary, and my voyage round the Black Sea,
I was indebted to the courtesy of Count Wor-
renzow, at that time governor-general of New
Russia. That excellent nobleman not only fa-
cilitated my excursions through the interior of
the countries over which he exercised almost
sovereign authority, but in the kindest manner
invited me to accompany him on his coasting
expeditions, thus affording me an opportunity of
visiting the whole of the Russian ports and set-
tlements on the coast of the Crimea, Circassia,
and Mingrelia — countries which had been

VI PREFACE.

hitherto, for the most part, sealed against the
intrusion of a stranger.

The traveller who may adopt a steam-vessel
as his mode of conveyance from Vienna to Con-
stantinople, will find in the work a description
of every object worthy of attention on his route.
Constantinople and its environs are delineated
with as much accuracy as a brief s^jour would
permit. The reader will also find various inter-
esting particulars relative to Krim-Tartary, and
traits of the customs, habits, and manners of the
Nogay Tartars.

Being the first traveller who penetrated into
the interior of Circassia, I have endeavoured to
omit no fact that could tend to develope the
features of that highly interesting country, or
the character of its heroic inhabitants.

The illustrations for the work were sketched
from nature, and the map of the Black Sea has
been arranged after the most approved charts
published by the Russian Admiralty. It will
be found to contain some valuable additions^
gleaned during my voyage and my excursions
through the interior of the countries in its imme-
diate vicinity.

The land occupied by the confederated
princes of Circassia, marked as independent
from the Kouban to the Salamache, or Burzuk-

PREFACE. Vll

lu river, on the frontiers of Mingrelia, corre-
sponds with the boundaries laid down in the
chart of General Khatov, published by order of
the Russian government a few years previously
to the Adrianople Treaty — an important admis-
sion when considered with reference to the

«

question as to the right which Russia derives
from Turkey to Circassia.

The position of the ports and settlements on
the coast will be found perfectly accurate ; but
as several have two names, Turkish and Russian,
and often a third, Circassian ; in order to avoid
confusion, I have adopted that most generally
known, and in such cases as were doubtful I have
given two.

Even divested of any connexion with politi-
cal events, the beautiful valleys and mountains
of Circassia are in every respect calculated to
attract the geologist, botanist, mineralogist,
geographer, and the lover of nature.

In order to facilitate the traveller who may be
desirous to visit the country, either for the pur
poses of commerce or science, I have added a
brief vocabulary of the Circassian and Tartar
language. The latter he will find very useful,
as many of the Circassian chieftains are not
only acquainted with it, but we everywhere,
throughout the whole of these provinces, meet

vlii PREFACE.

with Krim and Nogay Tartars domiciliated, who,
on the subjugation of their country to the rule
of Russia, fled into the Caucasus.

Before I conchide my observations to the
traveller who may journey in the East, I would
recommend him to he on his guard against
the climate, the pernicious effect of which has
been too fatally proved on European consti-
tutions. Still, it must be admitted that many
persons fall victims to their own imprudence,
rather than to disease : for although dysentery,
ophthalmia, the common intermittent fever,
bilious intermittent, &c., prevails in some of the
provinces on the Black Sea, originating in the
rank vegetation, jungles^ marshes, and saline
incrustations ; no danger is to be apprehended,
provided that the traveller conforms, as much
as circumstances will permit, to the habits of
the natives, and takes care not to expose himself
to the damp chills of the evening after the great
heat of the day.

The traveller en route must be more than
usually abstemious, and what he eats should be
of the plainest kind. Wine and spirituous
liquors should be studiously avoided, and, for
the most part, animal food : for let it be re-
membered, that the amount of nourishment
which is moderation in a cold climate may be

PREFACE. IX

intemperance in a hot one. It is true, fatigue,
and long exposure to the sun, notwithstanding
every precaution, will enervate the frame, and
predispose it to disease ; but the traveller must
not yield either to despondency or irritability,
and, I repeat, he should particularly refrain
from having recourse to the bottle to excite
momentary cheerfulness. If, however, he is so
unfortunate as to be attacked by indisposition,
every dangerous symptom may generally be re-
moved in a single night by adopting the most
simple method of treatment, respecting which,
Johnson's admirable work on Climates contains
every information the traveller can desire ; and
none should leave home without it

In fact, every man who visits the East should
in some degree be acquainted with the curative
art, particularly the use of the lancet : it is also
advisable that he should carry with him a
supply of medicine, which he will find not only
useful to himself, but his character of a skilful
haMim will elevate him in the estimation of
the people, and be the surest passport to their
goodwill. In Circassia, the knowledge of medi-
cine is considered not as the result of study,
but the gift of heaven, and the being to whom
it is vouchsafed, a holy man — to injure whom
would be sacrilege.

PREFACE.

The traveller wbo may be disposed to journey
through the mountainous districts of Circassia,
must bear in mind that there is not the slightest
chance of obtaining any of the comforts of
civilised life ; and unless he can dispense with
them, he had better stay at home ; for, unlike
Europe and many parts of the East, where a
well-filled purse procures every accommodation,
here he may be thankful if he obtains the shelter
of a house. This does not originate in any
want of hospitality in the inhabitants, but in
the scantiness of the population, the absence of
roads, and of places appropriated to public
refreshment. He should therefore be provided
with several little necessaries; such as a tent,
carpet for a bed, a casserole for cooking, bags
of meal for making cakes, leathern bottles for
holding his beverage, together with a machine
for making coffee, which will refresh him when
weary and enliven him when dull, and is indeed
invaluable to a traveller in the East. It is also
indispensable that he should be furnished with
an introduction to some chieftain or elder of the
country, who by becoming his konak will be
answerable to his countrymen for the good
conduct of the stranger, and that he is not a
Russian spy. Without this precaution, the
traveller, * after escaping the Russian cruisers,

PREFACE. XI

would find that he had to contend against
another danger — the united hostility of the
whole population of Circassia, and he might
consider himself fortunate if no worse punisli-
ment was decreed him for his temerity than
being sold as a slave.

This severe mode of proceeding has been
adopted of late years by the confederated princes
of Circassia towards every stranger, of whatever
nation or creed, in consequence of the number
of Russian spies who were accustomed to enter
the country in disguise.

E. S.

London.^ May^ 1839.

CONTENTS

OP

THE FIRST VOLUME.

LETTER L

Steam-packet from Vienna to Pest — ^Passengers-- Captain —
Scenery on the Danube — Pleasures of travelling by steam
— Arrival at Presburg . . . Piige I .

LETTBil IL

Island of Czallokiw- ^IImgar ian peasants — Comom — Beau-
tiful scenery — Gran— First impressions of Pest — ^Hotel —
Count Szechenyi — ^National Museum— rimprovements in
the town — Environs .12

LETTER IIL

Spring fair at Pest — ^Magyars — Various tribes of Hungary
— Singular aspect of tlie people — Races-r-Public dinner
at the Casino— Similarity of manners between the Hun-
garian magnats and the English — ^Hungarian hospitality-
Passport . . • .21

XIV CONTENTS.

LETTER IV.

Character of the Magyars — Their love of liberty — Patriot-
ism — Adoption of the Hungarian language as that of the
country — Liberty of the press — Literature — Constitution
of Hungary — Abject condition of the serf — Privileges
of the nobility . . . 31

LETTER V.

Leave Pest for Galatz — ^The Pannonia steam-boat — Pas-
sengers — Count Esterliazy — Buffaloes— Aspect of the
country — Peterwardein, the Gibraltar of the Danube —
Military cordon of Austria—Flourishing state of the
colony — Costume of the people • . 43

LETTER VL

Carlowitz — River Theiss— Insalubrity of its banks— Semlin
— Belgrade — Fortifications — Principality of Servia— Fer-
tility of the country — Vast herds of swine — Prince Milosch
— His government — Simplicity of the laws — Costume of
the Servians and Sclavonians — Castle of Semendria— '
Turkish fortifications —Sublime scenery of the Danube —
Castle of Golubacs — Singular poisonous fly — Their dread-
ful ravages .... 54

LETTER VII.

Whirlpools of the Danube— Veterani Cavern — Roman an-
tiquities — Milanova— Passports — Mehadia Mineral Bath
— Efiicacy of the Waters — Beauty of the surrounding
country — Neu Orsova— Detention of the steam-boat by
the Pacha — Visit to the Pacha— Austrian timidity —
Cataract of the Danube — Pannonia the first steam-boat
that passed it — Wild character of the scenery — Prin-
cipality of Wallachia — Kladova — Turkish Pilots. 65

CONTENTS. XV

LETTER VIII.

Desolation and fertility — Remains of the bridge built by
Trajan — Enter Bulgaria — Gothic castle at Florentin —
Widdin — Fortifications — Nikopolis — Rutschuck — Giur-
ge wo— Wretched appearance of the town and inhabitants
— Forest of thistles — Curiosity of the Wallachians —
Silistria — Fortifications — Turks and Russians — Marshes
— Musquitoes — Advice to travellers . . 75

LETTER IX.

Galatz — Miserable aspect of the town — Increasing com-
merce — Inhabitants — Departure for Constantinople — Pas-
sengers — German students — Hungarian noblemen — Bes-
sarabia — Delta of the Danube — Cossack Guard-houses —
Insalubrity of their situation — General observations . 85

LETTER X.

Entrance into the Black Sea — Observations respecting it —
Storm — German terror — Landing at Varna — Fortifications
— Thracian Bosphorus — Comparison between the Bay of
Naples and Stamboul ... 95

LETTER XL

Departure for the Dardanelles — Increase of Passengers —
A Pacha — His harem and suite — Visit to the Pacha of
the Dardanelles — Moullah — Oriental entertainment — Hall
of audience — The advantages of a Teskere . . 105

LETTER XII.

Chanak-Kalesi — Journey to Troy— Turkish horses — Hun-
garian travelling companion — Visit to our consul, Mr.

XVI coNrE^lTs.

Landor — Aspect of the country— Apathy of the Turks —
Serious indisposition of my companion — Knavish suridji —
Scamander — Boumabashi — House of the Agha — Moon-
light phantoms — Hospitable reception — Hungarian remedy
for intermittent fever — ^Courtesy of the Agha— Site of
Troy — Prospect from the tomb of Hector . 113

LETTER XIII.

Hellespont — Scenery — Austrian steam-boat — Passe ngers —
Sea of Marmora — Aspect of the country — First impres-
sions on arriving at Stamboul — Its splendour and poverty
— Canine scavengers — Melancholy instance of their
voracity — ^The suburb Galata — Turkish cemetery — Suburb
ofPera — Greek boarding-house — English inmates . 126

LETTER XIV.

A ramble through Stamboul — Patrol — ^Inflammable nature
of the buildings — Bazaars — Merchants — Trifling remains
of antiquity — Aqueduct — The Tower oi Leander — Legend
attached to it— Beauty of the caiks — Boatmen — Valley of
Sweet Waters — Its miasma — Turkish promenade— Gay
assembly — Turkish ladies — Unhealthy aspect of the popu-
lation — Causes of the insalubrity of Constandnople . 136

LETTER XV.

Climate of Constantinople — Aquatic excursions^Picturesque
appearance of the city — Frank Society — Female slave
bazaar — Its repulsive features— Value of the women-
Scarcity of Circassians in the market . . - 150

CONTENTS. XVU

LETTER XVI;

Visit to the mosques with the Russian ambassador— Mosque
of Valido— of Osman III. — of Solyman the Magnificent-*
His tomb— Meditations of the Sultan — Mosque of Bajazet
II. — ^Interior — Mosque of Achmet — Tomb of Semlin II. —
superb MSS of the Kordn-^Mosque of San Sophia —
Turkish fiuiaticism^-StjIe of the architecture ^Mosaic
Paintings — Greneral observations upon the mosques 158

LETfER XVII.

Turkish love-affiur -— Courtship — Marriage — Festival —
Harem — Interior— -Customs and manners of the women —
Turkish superstition — Sultan*s astrologer — Amulets —
Decrease of fanaticism— Tolerance of the Mussulmans
towards Giaours . 169

LETTER XVIII.

A few observations upon the state of the Turkish empire
—Its rise and fall — Russian victories easily achieved-^
Turkish character — Intoxication — Innovation of the
Sultan on the laws of the Kor^ — Efiects on the people
— The Kor4n — Turkish opinion of Protestantism ~ Demo-
ralizing tendency of the Mahometen religion-^Its influence
upon a stranger • . • 160

LETTER XIX.

Mount Bulgurlu — Splendid prospect — Reflections — Turkish
Illuminations — Seraglio — Military school—Cadets —Young-
Kabardian — Russian triumph . • 190

VOL. I. C

XVlll CONTENTS.

LETTER XX.

Turkish military — Sultan Mahmoud — His activity — Passion
for military exercises — The young Turkish princes —
Their education — The reforms of the Sultan — Difficulties
of his situation — Russian protection — Enfeebled state of
the Turkish empire-- Advantages of Turkish commerce to
England .... 198

LETTER XXL

Departure for Odessa — The Bosphorus — Steam-boat — Pas-
sengers — Karaite Jews — Serpents* Island — Legends con-
nected with it — Arrival at Odessa — Lord Durham — His
silent reception at Odessa — Indignation— Lazaretto— Rus-
sian dinner— Italian opera— Signer Marini — Hotel de
Richelieu .... 216

LETTER XXIL

Steam-boat voyage to Yalta — English mate — First aspect of
Krim-Tartary — Disappointment— Monastery of St George
— Its great antiquity— Balaclava — Aloupka — Scenery —
Villas of the Russian nobility — ^Improved aspect of the
country — Arrival at Yalta • . 228

LETTER XXIIL

Voyage to Circassia with Count Worrenzow — Travelling
guests of his Excellency — Agreeable sailing— Theodosia —
Illuminations — Reception of the Governor-general—
Ancient splendour of the town— Ruined state of its com-
merce — Caviare — Cimmerian Bosphorus — Arrival at
Kertch .... 238

CONTENTS. XIX

LETTER XXIV.

Kertch in its present state — ^Banquet — Museum—Hill of
gold — Opening of a tumulus — Discoveries — Violation of
the tomb — Tumuli — Extensive ruins in the neighbour-
hood of Kertch — Seat of Mithridates — Climate • 249

LETTER XXV.

First aspect of the Caucasian mountains — Circassians —
Their hostility to Russia — Proclamation of the King of
England to tlie Circassians — The Portfolio in the moun-
tains of the Caucasus — Interview between Count Wor-
renzow and a Circassian chief — Fortress of Anapa-<- Origin
of the connexion between the Turks and Circassians —
Anapa becomes a Pachalik — Political Intrigues — War
between the Turks and Russians— Disastrous conse-
quences to the Circassians from their alliance with the
Turks . . . .260

LETTER XXVI.

Arrival at Soudjouk-Kal6 — Its capture by the Russians —
Advantageous position — Origin of the establishment of
the Turks at Soudjouk-Kal6— Expulsion of the Turks —
Supposed antiquity of Soudjouk-Kal6 — Sketch of the
Russian camp — Plans of the Russian government for the
final subjugation of Circassia— Arrival of a Circassian
noble at the camp — His adhesion to the cause of Russia
— Character of the Circassians — Watch-fires . 270

LETTER XXVIL

Voyage to Ghelendjik — Splendid coast scenery-— Arrival at
Ghelendjik— Advantages of the bay as a harbour — Failure
of the Russian colony — Fortress — Salubrity of tlie climate

XK CONTENTS.

— Bay of Pchad — Hostile attitude of the natives — Fertile
aspect of the country — Bay of Djook — Boundary betvreen
Upper and Lower Abasia — Character of the Abasians —
Defile of Jagra — ^Visit to the fortress— Incessant warfare
' of the natives— Unheal thiness of the situation • 284

LETTER XXVIU.

Increased altitude of the mountains — Pitzounda — Excursion
to the fortress — Superb forests— Contrast between the
Circassians and the Russians — Greek church and mo-
nastery — Evidences of christian feeling still existing
among the natives — Tradition connected with the church
— Antiquity of Pitzounda . . • 297

LETTER XXiX.

Destruction of Souchom-Kal6 by the Russians— Dangers to
the garrison from the climate and the enmity of the na**
tives— Voyage to Redout-Kal6 — Iskuria and Anakria —
Province of Mingrelia — Changed aspect of the country^
Interminable forests-^A storm — Danger of passing the
bar— Khopi' Excursion up the river — ^Landing at Redout-
Kale — Desolate aspect of the town • . 304

LETTER XXX.

Return to the Crimea — Russian seamanship— A rear-admi-
ral — Fortunate escape from shipwreck — First view of
Mount Elberous — Difficulty of landing at Bombora — Visit
to the fortress — Extraordinary fertility of the soil —
Number of reptiles — Land tortoise — Hospitality of the
Abasians — Town of Bombora — Nobles of Abasia — Charac-
teristics of the Abasians . . . 821

CONTENTS. XXi

LETTER XXXI.

Mortality among the Russian garrisons in the Caucasus-
Probable cause of this — DifHcuUies attending the con-
quest of Circassia — A few observations upon Russian
policy with regard to the Caucasian provinces — Their
great fertility — ^Hints upon the colonisation best adapted
to them — Probable effects of Russian conquest upon the
inhabitants of Circassia . . . 334

LETTER XXXII.

Return to the Crimea — English residents — Departure for
the ancient capital of Krim-Tartary — Ascent of the Ai-
Petri— Scenery — Singular steppe on the summit of the
mountain — Perilous descent — Hospitable reception at the
house of a mourza — Aspect of the inhabitants— Tartar
Villages — General character of tlie country — Tendency of
Mahometanism . . . • 348

LETTER XXXIIL

Bagtche-Serai as it is — Palace of the Khans — Singular
Arabic inscriptions — Wanton barbarity of the Russians —
Environs — Gipsy village — Inhabitants — Ancient church
and convent — ^Visit to the Jewish fortress Tschoufout-
Kal6 — Cemetery— Notice on the religion of the Karaite
Jews .... 362

LETTER XXXIV.

Valley of Baida^^Scenery — Hospitality of the Tartars —
Passage of the Merdven — ^Terrific descentr— Singular con-
struction of the road— Arrival at Aloupka • 378

^ I

XXll CONTENTS.

LETTER XXXV.

Chateau of Count Worrenzow at Aloupka — Its architecture
— Pleasure grounds — Marsanda — ^Its villa — Situation and
park — Villas of the Russian nobility — The emperor's park
at Orianda — The Crimea unfavourable to tlie growth of
forest trees— -F^te-champ^tre given by General Count de
Witt . . . . .884

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

Circassian Warrior Chief in his Gala Costume Frontispiece.
A Turkish Family Picture • • • Tide.

View of Presburg • . . • Page 1

Cossack Guard- house and Watch-tower . . 85

Giaours smoking the Tchibouque with the Pacha of

the Dardanelles • • • . .105

Interior of a Tartar Cottage . . « . 228

Interview between Count Worrenzow and a Circassian

Prince ...... 260

An evening View of the Bay of Soudjouk-Kal6 . 271

View of a Greek Church built by Justinian at Pit-

zounda ..••.. 296
View of the Bay of Souchom-Kal6 • • . 804

Tartar Peasants near Yalta . • • . 348

View of the Farm-yard of a Tartar Mourza near Bag-

tche-Serai . . . • • 362

Chart of the Black Sea.

(

1

i

,

I

I

STBAM-PACRKT PROH VIENNA TO PBST — PABSBNOBRS — CAP-
TAIN — SCKNERV ON THE DANUBE— PLKASURKS OF THA-
VELLINO BY STRAH — ARRIVAL AT PRKBBDIIO.

Predittrg, April 5th, 1836.
MY DEAR FRIEND,

I am sure you will agree with me in
thinking, that among the various modern disco-
veries which have had their origin in British
genius, none is fraught with more important
consequences to the welfare of mankind than
the steam engine, none since the invention of
printing more likely, ay, more certain, to prove
the means of diffusing knowledge and civilisation,

2 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE,

over those regions of the globe, where ignorance
and fanaticism chain down the intellect of man.

Whatever direction the tide of improvement
may ultimately take, its first course appears to be
towards those lands watered by the Danube, the
Euxine, and the Bosphorus. Here we already
behold some of the fairest countries of our hemi-
sphere called into a new state of existence, and
attracting the attention of the whole commercial
and political world. These are the countries I
am now about to explore, — countries rendered,
at present, so peculiarly interesting by the novel
position in which the events of the last few years
have placed them ; and I only hope I may be
able to contribute, if not to your extensive fund
of information and geographical knowledge, at
least in some degree to your amusement.

We have certainly to thank that industrious
traveller, Mr. Quin, for much information re-
specting the steam navigation of the Danube.
He happened however, unfortunately, to jour-
ney down the river at a time when the works
for improving its navigation were in their in-
fancy, and in the autumn of a peculiarly dry
season. Hence he experienced many difficulties
in the prosecution of his voyage, owing to a
deficiency of water and other obstructions. Be-
sides, his tour only extended from Presburg to

FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. d

Wallachia : thus the whole of the Lower Danube
to the Black Sea remained a blank, so far as
regarded its navigation by steam. Fate, however,
favoured me with a happier combination of cir-
cumstances. I arrived at Vienna early in the
spring, when the Danube was swollen by the
melting of the snow on the mountains, which
induced the directors of the steam navigation to
send their first boat, the Nador^ direct from
Vienna ; for the river, after leaving that city, is
so shallow during the summer, that no vessel,
even of moderate burden, can come higher than
Presburg, This inconvenience, I understand,
will soon be remedied, as works are in progress
for deepening the bed of the river ; and a canal
is now excavating, intended to unite Vienna
with the great navigable arm of the Danube,
distant about a league.

A less attractive object would have sufficed to
draw crowds of the wonder loving population of
this gay metropolis ; but so novel an occurrence
as the departure of the first steam-boat from
Vienna set half its inhabitants in motion, and so
early as four in the morning I found the road
crowded with carriages^ equestrians, and pedes-
trians. When our little vessel dashed gail}
forward, the aspect of thousands of spectators,
cheering us with loud vivatSy not only presented

B 2

4 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE,

a very animated picture, but gave a hope that
the enterprise would ultimately prove a profitable
speculation to the company.

There could not have been less than from two
to three hundred persons on board : the arrange-
ments for general accommodation, I thought, were
not so good as those in the Rhenish steam -vessels,
and some of the passengers objected to the high
charges for refreshment ; and when we take into
account the low price of provisions in this part
of the continent, perhaps they did not complain
without reason : still, to balance this, the fares
were moderate, that in the chief cabin being no
more than twelve florins from Vienna to Pest, —
about a pound sterling.

The national characteristics of our party were
not, as you might have expected^ either striking,
interesting, or novel ; indeed I observed but
little difference in their manners, customs, and
costume, from those of our countrymen on board
a Thames steamer ; and assuredly, if this Au-
gustan age should continue a few years longer,
and the facilities for travelling go on increasing,
the distinctive national features of the different
European races will be obliterated altogether,
and we shall appear as if* belonging to the same
family.

The majority of our passengers consisted of

FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 5

belles and beaux from Vienna, who had come
on a voyage of experiment as to the pleasure of
travelling by steam, which they soon found to
be sadly chastised by fear. On learningi how-
ever, that two Englishmen were on board, (what
steam -boat in any part of the globe is without
them?) apprehension overcame timidity, aud
several of the fair ones came in groups to demand
of Mr. Newton and myself, if any probability ex-
isted of an explosion ; evidently taking it for
granted, that a Briton possessed some intuitive
faculty of descrying at a distance any peril that
might threaten a steam-boat. When we assured
them no danger existed, save in their own ima-
gination, it was apparently regarded as nothing
less than the response of an oracle.

We had also several Hungarians on their way
to the races at Pest, which were to commence in
a few days. The physical line of demarcation
between them and the Austrians rendered it
impossible to doubt their identity, even for a
moment ; the Asiatic blood of the one showed
itself in their fiery eyes, dark hair, light elastic
forms, and restless demeanour ; while the quiet,
pale, blonde Austrian appeared good-nature and
content personified. In the inhabitants of the
second cabin I found far more variety and na-
tionality than among their aristocratic neighbours.

6 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE,

Here were encamped, around pyramids of baud-
boxes, motley tribes of Tyroleans, Styrians, Mo-
ravians, aud Bohemians, together with Poles and
Jewish traders, on their way to the fair at Pest. ;
intermingled with dandy shopmen and smart
grisettes from the elegant metropolis of Austria,
who evidently regarded themselves with as much
self-complacency as they bestowed contempt upon
the gaudy dresses and vulgar tournure of their
provincial fellow-travellers.

After being accustomed to the costume of our
own tars, you will be amused to learn that of the
Hungarian captain of our steamer. Hisdiminutive
figure, for he could not have been more than five
feet in height, was attired in a hussar jacket,
richly braided ; and as if this were not sin enough
against marine manners, his round rosy face was
ornamented with a tremendous pair of musta-
chios fiercely curled, and large whiskers growing
under his chin like a lady's boa ; and these, being
of a fiery red, contributed to give a most grotesque
expression to his countenance. The engineer,
an intelligent young man, a native of Mayence,
had resided several years in England. He sur-
prised me with the information that wood was the
fuel he usually burnt ; for, notwithstanding plenty
of coal is found in most of the comitats of Hun-
gary, and even in the vicinity of the Danube,

FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 7

yet such is the want of enterprise in the people
of this country, that Newcastle is found a cheaper
market for supplying the steam-vessels on the
Danube with coals, than Hungary itself, where
labour and provisions may be obtained at the
lowest possible cost.

So long as we continued within the Duchy of
Austria, the banks of the river remained low and
swampy, without a single object to relieve the
monotony of the landscape, except a distant pros-
pect of the Kahlenberg and Hungarian hills. On
passing the island of Lobau, our attention was
directed for a moment to that dreary spot, so con-
nected with interesting historical recollections.
It told of the conquests of Napoleon, of the humi-
liation of the Austrian empire. However, we
were not doomed to linger long in this tiresome,
uninteresting part of the Danube ; for, moving ra-
pidly onward, aided by the force of a strong cur-
rent and an engine of forty-two horse power^ we
soon approached the Hungarian frontier, when
the banks began to assume a more picturesque
character. Ruined castles, dilapidated fortifica-
tions, neat towns, and pretty villages, added to
vine-clad hills, rich corn-fields, and blooming gar-
dens, formed a succession of pleasing pictures,
which continued to cheer us without intermission
to Presburg.

8 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE,

We ^ere first gratified with a hasty glance of
Petronell, the Carnuntum of the Romans; which
still exhibits the remains of the triumphal arch
erected by Augustus to the honour of Tiberius,
conqueror of Pannonia : wealsoobtainedaglimpse
of the famous fortified wall which runs from hence
to the great Hungarian lake, Neusiedlersee. This
gigantic work is supposed to have been originally
constructed by the Germans, as a defence against
the devastation of the Huns, Tartars, and other
Asiatic tribes ; and though now a mere ruin, .yet,
at no more remote a period than a few centuries
since, it rendered good service to Austria as a
check against the invading Turks.

Surely no mode of travelling is half so agree-
able as a steam-boat on a lake or river ; you are
neither tormented with dust, nor the numerous
cUsagrSmens of hotels, rapacious landlords, long
bills, officious waiters, post-horses not ready, and
grumbling postilions ; each sufficient of itself to
exhaust the patience of a traveller. On the con-
trary, here our expenses may be regulated with
exact precision, and as we glide rapidly forward,
there is just sufficient time to admire the scenery
as in a panorama, while the distance veils its im-
perfections. The humblest village, with its tiny
church, appears the very abode of content and
happiness ; and should the landscape become mo-

FHOM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 9

notonous, or the weather unfavourable, we are
almost certain to find in the cabin good society,
or at least some traits in the manners and cha-
racter of the passengers, sufiicient to prevent
the approach of ennui.

But, to descend from general observations to
those suggested by the locality, the tour of the
Danube should be made in spring, for then we
are not tormented with stinging musquitoes, or
a burning sun. Nature is also dressed in her
brightest smiles, and, as she now appeared, I could
not too much admire the delicately rich verdure
of the pastures and meadows, nor the gardens
and orchards, clothed in all their varied flowery
tints, resembling so many bouquets ; while the
young com, here waving in the wind, there burst-
ing from its earthly prison in all the strength and
vigour of renewed life, gave an additional charm
to the beautiful landscape.

One of the most interesting pictures presented
tons was Deutsch-Altenburg, with its fine modern
castle and pretty church, situated on the summit
of a bill ; and I much regretted that we passed so
rapidly, as not to permit me taking a sketch of
Haimburg, beautifully grouped round the base of
a mountain, crowned by a picturesque ruin : and
should any of our clever painters journey to the
Danube in search of a landscape to adorn one of

10 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE,

our pretty annuals, I would by all means counsel
Haimburg, withTheben (Dowina) on the opposite
bank, should form the subject of his pencil, com-
bining as they do all that can be called pic-
turesque in the mouldering ruin, the disrupted
fortification, and the most lovely river scenery.
Theben, now so solitary and insignificant, was at
one time a town of great importance, being men-
tioned in the history of the German wars so
early as the seventh century ; and to judge from
the extent and strength of the fortifications, the
altitude of the hill, and commanding position, it
must have been a most formidable military posi-
tion.

We remained about half an hour at Presburg,
sufficiently long to allow me to take a sketch of
the town, with the royal castle of the kings of
Hungary proudly seated on the last peak of the
lower chain of the Carpathians. However inter-
esting and picturesque Presburg may appear from
the steam-boat, it does not improve upon a more
intimate acquaintance, particularly when we re-
member itwastbecapital of so extensive akingdom
as Hungary : the streets, besides being narrow,
are badly built and ill paved, and, with the excep-
tion of a few good inns, there is not the slightest
appei^rance of improvement or commercial acti-
vity. The splendid castle is deserted and fast

FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 11

falling to decay, and many of the wealthy nobles,
who resided here when it was the capital, liave
removed to Vienna or Pest, leaving their spacious
palaces without tenants, the numerous windows of
which being broken, and covered with dust and
cobwebs, contribute not a little to the desolation
of the picture. The sittings of the Diet are still
held here, and the brows of the Emperor of Aus-
tria here wreathed with the diadem of Hungary,
a ceremony I had the pleasure of witnessing some
years since. In conformity with the ancient in-
stitutions of the country, the newly-crowned mo-
narch is obliged to ascend the Konigsberg (king's
mountain) on horseback, armed with the sword of
King Stephen, the saint and patron of Hungary,
when he extends it towards the four quarters of
the globe ; at the same time swearing, by the
holy saint, to protect his subjects from their foes,
on whatever side they may be assailed, and also
to maintain intact their constitution, laws, and
religion.
Farewell !

12 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE,

LETTER II.

ISLAND OF CZALLOKOZ — HUNGARIAN PEASANTS — COMORN —
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY — GRAN — .FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF PEST

HOTEL — COUNT SZECHENTI NATIONAL MUSEUM — IM-

PROYEMENTS IN THE TOWN— EN YI RONS.

A SHORT distance after leaving Presburg, the
Danube divides into two great arms, and forms
the island of Czallokoz, twenty-four leagues in
length, and fourteen in breadth. It is consi-
dered very fertile ; and the multitude of villages
scattered over it, with the agricultural fields and
numerous flocks and herds, impart to the land-
scape a very pleasing effect. Still, as the whole
surface is flat, the monotony of the scenery would
not be sufficiently relieved, were it not occasion-
ally broken by the endless water-mills, together
with the heavily-laden boats drawn against the
stream by fifty or sixty horses ; and these, being
driven by some of the wildest-looking human
beings in Europe, form one of the most novel
features on the Danube. The Hungarian peasant,
it is true, advances many and strong claims to
originality of costume, yet in this respect he is

FROM VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 13

entirely eclipsed by the Danube boatmen, whose
attire consists of trousers as wide as petticoats,
coarse hemp tunics, and monstrous broad-brimmed
liats ; while their legs and feet are left exposed
alike to the burning sun and the rudest blasts of
heaven. But it is the wild expression of their
swarthy, weather-beaten countenances, aided by a
profusion of sable hair streaming over their shoul-
ders, and the loud howling chorus with which
they cheer their horses, that imparts to them an
appearance so savage, that you might deem your-
self transported a thousand miles from civilised
Europe.

Leaving Raab to the right, we soon after passed
Comorn, the principal town of a comitat, still
strongly fortified, and justly entitled to the epi-
thet of the ** maiden fortress ;" for, during the
whole of the wars and invasions to which Hungary
was exposed, it was never captured. Here the
two great arms of the Danube unite, and, being
increased by the accession of the deep waters of
the Waag, form a superb stream, which hurried
us on with great velocity till we arrived at Gran —
a very considerable town, and capital of a comitat.
The noble edifice now erecting on a rock over-^
hanging the town is intended to be the residence
of the archbishop, primate of Hungary, one of

14 PEST AND BUDA.

the wealthiest and most influential magnats in
the kingdom.

The scenery now exhibited on the banks of the
Danube was superior in grandeur to a^iiy I had
seen since leaving Vienna; mountains of porphyry
rose up on either side, adorned with ruined
castles and convents ; and as our river had be-
come swelled by the waters of the Gran, its
already contracted channel seemed scarcely sufli-
cient to contain the foaming tide: there was the
fine old town of Wissegrad, with its many towers
and spires rearing their stately forms among the
clustering vines on the hills ; while elevated on
a lofty peak proudly rose, in all the splendour of
decayed magnificence, the royal residence of the
kings of Hungary. Then, after passing a suc-
cession of amphitheatres, formed by the windings
of this most serpentine of rivers, a few incon-
siderable towns and villages, and a perfect city
of water-mills, we cast anchor at Pest, having
completed our journey in fifteen hours.

As my Hungarian friends at Vienna had been
most eloquent in praise of the beauty of the towns
of Buda and Pest, they had become in some de-
gree familiar to my imagination ; and I candidly
confess, after making a few deductions on the
score of national vanity, the first coup deceit fully

PEST AND BUDA. 16

answered my expectations. On one side you
have a most imposing view of the fine old city of
Buda, swept by the vast stream which here, some-
what impeded in its progress by a majestic curve,
swells into a foaming surge. From its banks the
proud city gradually ascends the lofty mountain
amidst the varied foliage of terraced gardens ;
the whole crowned by the citadel and the splen-
did palace of the Palatinate, which increase, in no
inconsiderable degree, the loveliness of the sur-
rounding landscape.

Pest, on the opposite bank, has not the advan*
tage of a commanding situation, being built on a
plain ; yet, when viewed in detail, it is an infi-
nitely more beautiful town, and the public and
private edifices are of a superior class. This is
principally owing to the patriotic feeling which
has lately prompted the Hungarian magnats to
embellish their own capital instead of the imperial
Vienna ; and while rambling through the interior
of the town, or along the banks of the Danube,
we are constantly reminded, by the frequent occur-
rence of fine modern buildings, of the wealth and
taste of the inhabitants.

Should this laudable spirit of improvement con-
tinue, it is not improbable that Pest and Buda,
which we may consider as one town, will ere long
eclipse Vienna : the climate is more salubrious.

16 PEST AND BUD A.

the situation far superior in a commercial point of
view, and, now that steam navigation is esta-
blished, it has every prospect of becoming a flou-
rishing port. Add to which, it is the metropolis
of a kingdom, with a rich patriotic nobility^ a
population of nearly ** fourteen millions, and a
soil unequalled in Europe for fertility. « In short,
this fine country is now commencing a new epoch,
having been hitherto kept back by the unnatural
rule of a stepmother ; but steam navigation has
given her an accession of strength and vigour,
that bids fair to place her in a short time at a
high point in the scale of European civilisation.
I put up my pilgrim's staff at the J'ager-horn,
(hunter's horn,) the largest, most convenient,
and, I may add, magnificent-looking hotel in
Hungary, whose gigantic porter in his rich livery,
cocked-hat, and golden-headed cane, as he pro-
menaded beneath the lofty portal, appeared a fit
appendage to such an establishment. The gene-
ral appointments of the house were also in keep-
ing with its exterior ; among these we may reckon
a serenade the live-long day by an excellent

* Count Nagy, well known as the author of several valu-
able literary works on Hungary, assured me that this coun-
^ry» together with Transylvania, and the space included in
the military cordon on the Turkish frontier, contained the
population I have speci^ed.

PEST AND BUDA. 17

band of music, and the traveller who has once
dined upon the well-cooked viands of the Parisian
cuisinieTf will not fail to revisit the J'ager-hom.
However, in consequence of arriving during the
season of the races and the great spring fair, the
apartments bore a high premium ; and, in truth,
it was almost as difficult to obtain a quartier
among the high-born magnats, as to procure a
ticket from the high-bred patronesses of Almack's.

I was fortunate in meeting at Pest with several
friends, particularly the Count Etienne Sze-
chenyi, the distinguished patrician to whose pa-
triotic exertions Hungary is so deeply indebted.
The traveller has to thank his unwearied perse-
verance for the facility of steam navigation on the
Danube, and his country owes to him a variety
of institutions, all tending to promote her re-
generation. Agriculture, the arts, sciences, and
industry, are encouraged by judiciously-bestowed
premiums ; this has had the effect, not only of
bringing forward native talent, but promoting
the culture of the indigenous productions of the
soil, — the wines, flax, hemp, grain, tobacco,
wool, tallow, &c., whose excellence has been
hitherto nearly unknown, are now beginning to
be appreciated by the commercial world, accord-
ing to their real value.

The national museum, founded in 1802, owes

VOL. I. c

18 PEST AND BUDA.

its origin to the patriotic exertions and muni-
ficent donations of another member of this public-
spirited family, the Count Francis Szechenyi ;
and whether we regard the splendour of the
building) the rich collection of antiquities,
medals, and armour, the rare specimens of mine-
rals, or the numerous and well-selected library,
with its interesting manuscripts, we shall, not
find this institution surpassed by any other of a
similar nature in the Austrian empire, more
especially as it is richly endowed with funds,
which are applied to the purchase of such objects
as arc curious in nature, or interesting in art.

In order to give you some idea of the improve-
ments in this town and the habits of the people,
it is only necessary to say that, little more than
half a century ago, Pest was composed in great
part of mere huts, surrounded by high walls and
stagnant moats^ without lamps, pavement, or any
other of the comforts of civilised life; for then
the noble and the wealthy spent their time and
riches, basking in the sunny smiles of court
favour at Vienna, Whereas, we now see on the
banks of the Danube a range of buildings, which
would be admired for the beauty of their archi-
tecture even in the meridian of London or
Paris. On the spot where a marsh once shed
around its pestilential exhalations, we behold a

PEST AND BUDA. 19

noble piazza, adorned, among other striking
edifices, by the palaces of the rich raagnats,
Urmenyi, Festetics, &c. The high wall and
fortifications have been also rased to the ground,
and the space converted into a wide and well-
kept road, which separates the town from its
extensive faubourgs.

In addition to these improvements, there is the
richly-endowed university with its beautiful hall,
the town-house, the military hospital, the artil-
lery barracks, several noble churches, the palaces
of the nobility, and the new theatre with its
redout-saal and coffee-house ; all distinguished in
a greater or less degree for their architecture.
Pest and Buda are also liberally furnished with
hospitals and benevolent institutions; among
many others, there is the orphan-house, the
citizen^s hospital, and similar establishments for
the Wallachians, Greeks, and Jews; besides
charitable institutions, formed by a society of
ladies, for the education of blind children, and
the maintenance of blind adults.

The chain of hills that encircle Buda, and add
so materially to the beauty of the landscape, are
not only celebrated for the excellent quality of
the wines they produce, but for the mineral
baths, which here have their source, affording
agreeable resorts to those who are seeking

c 2

20 PEST AND BUDA.

amusement, and holding out the promise of
relief to others who are searching after health.
Thus you may easily imagine that Buda and
Pest, with a united population of upwards of a
hundred and fire thousand, the former the seat
of government, the latter the great mart of
commerce, possessing all the advantages of good
society and a fine climate, form altogether a
delightful residence.

With respect to the antiquity of these towns,
there are Tarious contradictory accounts; the
most generally believed is, that Buda was founded
bv a colony of Romans, who gave it the name
of Acquineum ; subsequently it became the seat
of Attila and Arpad, and then bore the name of
Etelvar till the year 1351, when it received the
Hungarian name Buda-var. On perusing the
historical records of the country, I find it very
narrowly escaped the fate of all those that had
the misfortune to fall beneath the sway of the
Osmanlis, the capital, Buda, having continued in
their hands from 1541 to 1686.

FAIR AT PEST. 21

LETTER III.

9PHIN0 FAIR AT PBST — MAGYARS — VARIOUS TRIBES OF HUN-
GARY — SINGULAR ASPECT OF THE PEOPLE — RACES^-
PUBLIC DINNER AT THE CASINO — SIMILARITY OF MAN-
NERS BETWEEN THE HUNGARIAN MAGNATS AND THE
ENGLISH— HUNGARIAN HOSPITALITY— PASSPORT.

As I happened to be at Pest during the great
spring fair and the races, I was not only pro-
vided with ample materials for amusement, but
an opportunity of seeing the motley population of
natives and strangers, which are usually attracted
on this and similar occasions ; for, though the Mag-
yars, who have given their name to Hungary, are
the greatest landed proprietors, and bold the reins
of government, yet they are inferior in numerical
force to the Sclavonians, (or Totoks,) the ori-
ginal inhabitants. These are divided into at
least half a dozen separate tribes, each speaking
a different patois ; and if to them we add the colo-
nies of Germans, Wallachians, Greeks, Arme-
nians, French, Italians, Jews^ and Gipsies, speak-
ing their own languages and retaining their

22 FAIR AT PEST.

national maimers, ciistomB, aatl religion, we may
term Hungary a miniature picture of Europe.

My first lounge was through the fair, whicli
afforded as many groups for the painter as for the
observer of life and manners : the Babel-like con-
fusion of tongues was endless, and the costume
and appearance of the motley tribes could not
have been equalled in variety by any other fair in
Europe, or even by the most entertaining maskers
that ever trod the Piazza San Marco, or the
Corso at Rome, because here each performed his
natural character. The most prominent figures
in the group were ever the proud Magyars, par-
ticularly those Just arrived from the provinces.
The dress of some of these noblemen was indeed
singular, consisting of a tight sheep-skin coat, or
mantle, the woolly side inwards ; white the other
was gaudily embroidered all over with the gayest
flowers of the parterre, in coloured silk, among
which the t^lip was ever the most prominent.
l''hose whose wealth permitted it, were to be seen
habited in their half-military, half-civil costume;
and you might in truth fancy, from their haughty
demeanour, that you were beholding a feudal
untry of the middle ages, as,
fiery steeds and armed with
they galloped through the
upon whom, when the slight-

FAIR AT PEST. 23

est interruption occurred, they glanced with
scorn and contempt.

Among crowds of Jews, Turks, Greeks, Ar-
menians, Tyrolians, Germans, Sclavonians, Ita-
lians, and Hungarian peasants, were groups of
gipsies, their black matted locks shading their
wild sun-burnt countenances, exhibiting their
dancing dogs, bears, and monkeys, or playing a
lively tune for the amusement of the surrounding
multitude, these itinerants being the popular
musicians of Hungary. In another part of the
fair, mountebanks on elevated platforms were
relating the exploits of the famous robber Schru-
bar in the great forest of Bakony ; or the ravages
committed by the dreadful monster, half-serpent,
half-flying dragon, that lately rose out of the
Balaton lake, together with the most veritable
history of the re-appearance of the renowned
Merman, who had inhabited, for the last two
years, his own extensive domain, the Hansag
marshes. All these astonishing marvels, besides
hundreds of others, were listened to by the
peasants, not only with attentive ears, but open
mouths, and were illustrated by paintings as
large as life, depicting the extraordinary won-
ders, executed in a style which set all imitation
at defiance.

Bread, cakes, cheeses, vegetables, &c., were

24 FAIR AT PEST.

heaped on liigh in the streets, with the owners of
each separate pile squatted Id the midst. The
savoury odour of multiplied stalls of frying sau-
sages attracted some gourmands ; whilst others
feasted on the lighter refreshments of pastry,
which the accomplished cuisiniers were preparing
for their gratification.

But the popular viand was evidently the cray-
fish, which all ranks, however otherwise engaged,
were incessantly consuming; nor did they in this
manifest any deficiency in go^t, as the flavour of
the little dainties was really excellent, and I have
rarely seen them exceeded in size. Indeed, to
thread the mazes of this great Hungarian fair, so
as to obtain a view of its rarities, was an under-
taking of no little difficulty, on account of the
immense pyramids of wool, hides, tobacco, and
other raw materials, which ever stood in the way;
and as these articles were most tempting baits to
the cupidity of the Jewish traders, they might
constantly be seen making use of all their cajoling
ailing upon the artless pea-
wares at a price little more
;n, however, the case was
gaudy merchandise of the
traders induced the peasant
r, the balance of trade was
bim.

FAIR AT PEST. 25

But, perhaps, of all the various groups over
which my eye wandered, none more strongly
arrested my attention than the Saxon colonists :
these were attired in the same costume in which
their ancestors some centuries gone by had emi-
grated from their father- land, their blue eyes and
heavy quiet countenances forming a striking con-
trast to the vivid glances of the half Asiatic people
around them. Nor were their moral traits less
distinctively defined ; for the prudent German,
well knowing he was in the society of some of the
most accomplished pickpockets on the continent,
wisely determined that they should not prey upon
him^ for he did not once remove his hand from
his pocket ; while his good woman never failed to
keep watch behind, attended by her little ones,
who, on the approach of the half-wild gipsy,
timidly covered their flaxen heads in the many
folds of mamma's cumbrous petticoat.

I would, above all things, recommend every
traveller who may visit Pest during the spring
fair, not to leave it without taking a morning's
ramble through the town ; he will then see thou-
sands of men, women, and children, lying about
the streets, beneath the piazzas, or in the nume-
rous barks on the river, with no other covering
save the canopy of heaven and their own sheep-
skin mantles : he will also, still more to his sur-

36 RACES.

prise, behold them anointing their persons with
lardy in order to protect themselves during the
day from the effect of heat/ and the bites of ver-
min and insects.

My first excursion in the environs was to the
plain of Rakos, famous for being the spot on which
the Hungarians, in their primitive state, were
accustomed to hold their Diet under the free
canopy of heaven ; and now not less famous for
being that on which the first races were celebrated
in Hungary, under the auspices of Mr. Gordon,
formerly our ambassador at Vienna.

These races, which are some of the best I have
seen out of England, differ in nothing from those
in it, except that, towards the conclusion, the
peasants perform matches, encouraged by the
society for promoting the breed of horses ; and as
they ride in their peculiar costume, and without
saddles, the exhibition of at least a dozen such
wild-looking jockeys is always productive of much
mirth and fun, as it generally happens that more
than half the riders are most unceremoniously
hurled to the earth.

A vast concourse of people had assembled to
witness them ; and as the weather was exceedingly
fine, I enjoyed not a little the novel spectacle of
thousands of cavaliers galloping over the field ;
and I knew not how sufficiently to admire the

PUBLIC DINNER. 27

accomplished Hungarian equestrian, who, in his
splendid hussar uniform, firm in the saddle, and
light and elastic in action, seemed as if formed to
guide the spirited animal that carried him ; and
so appropriate were they to each other, that the
beauty of each appeared destroyed when sepa-
rated. We had, besides, every species of vehi-
cle, from the elegant barouche of the magnat,
down to the primitive car of the peasants, not
unlike in form to the arahat of the Nogay Tar-
tars ; and to describe the motley tribes of specta-
tors^ would only be to repeat what I have already
said when giving you an account of the fair.

About three o'clock in the afternoon, we re-
turned to Pest, when I was invited to a public
dinner at the casino of nobles; where, if it had
not been for the difference in the language,
and the Asiatic countenances of the guests^ I
might have concluded I was at a public dinner
in old England ; the cooking, attendants, toasts,
speeches, cheering, everything being completely
in the English style. Indeed, of all the foreign-
ers among whom I have mixed, there are none
who assimilate themselves more closely to our
national manners and customs than the Hunga-
rian magnats, nor any who receive a Briton
with more cordiality : our language is universally
spoken, our literature is generally studied, and

28 PUBLIC DINNER.

I found our best publications in the library of
the casino, and on the tables of every nobleman
I visited.

The gentlemen who composed our present
party were among the most influential, wealthy,
and enlightened of the Hungarian patriots. Do
not, however, let this word be understood in a
political sense : I only mean that they have con-
secrated their best energies to the benefit and
improvement of their country ; and as you have
resided some time in Vienna, and are well ac-
quainted with the Hungarian people, I feel a
pleasure in giving you the names of a few of the
most distinguished. Besides the chairman
Count Etienne Szechenyi, to whose patriotism I
have already alluded, there was Count Louis
Karolyi, the distinguished president of the Agri-
cultural Society, several members of the noble
families of the Esterhazys, the Fest^tics, the
Nadasdys, the Hunyadys, &c., together with
your friend, the talented young advocate M.
Fasner, to whose kind attentions I have been
deeply indebted.

On becoming a member of the casino, my
author's vanity was not a little gratified at finding
on the table of the reading-room my Sketches of
Germany and the Germans ; and as a few of my
intimate friends were aware that to me belonged

HUNGARIAN PASSPORT. 29

the paternity of the unclaimed foundling, it
proved the means of introducing me to several
gentlemen, who rendered me every kindness
that friendship and hospitality could dictate.
But, perhaps, in nothing more did they evince
this, than in the very liberal manner with which
they provided me with facilities for making my
projected tour through Hungary on my return
from Constantinople. In order to estimate these
courtesies at their full value, you must remember
that the public conveniences for a traveller in
this long-neglected country are ^' few, and far
between/' A hotel, even on the great road, is
a rarity, and when you do find one, the accom-
modations are generally wretched ; while the
luckless traveller on the cross-roads, or in the
remote provinces, must think himself fortunate
when he can find a bed in a cottage, should he be
unprovided with letters of recommendation. Then
for a conveyance, he must for the most part be
contented with his own good steed, who will
carry him over mountains and fields whenever,
which is very often the case, a road is not to be
found.

My friends, anticipating these petty desagre^
menSf furnished me with a species of passport,
which important little document invested me,
pro tem.y with all the privileges of a Hungarian

30 HUNGARIAN LANGUAGE.

rnagnat. Hence, whenever I presented it, every
Magyar throughout Hungary and Transylvania
was obliged, according to established conven-
tional courtesy, to receive me as he would one
of his own compatriots, and to provide me with
every necessary accommodation, such as horses,
refreshment^ bed, &c. This instrument was
written in the Hungarian language, which can-
not claim the slightest affinity with any other
now spoken in Europe, being evidently of Asiatic
origin. The few Turkish words, however, furnish
no rule that its origin is Arabic, as they are
probably remnants of the Ottoman rule in this
country ; still, whatever may be its derivation,
respecting which there are many conflicting
opinions, the sounds are pleasing, and I under-
stand it is extremely rich and expressive.

CHARACTER OF THE HUNGARIANS. 31

LETTER IV.

CHARACTER OF THE MAGYARS — THBIR L07E OF LIBERTY

PATRIOTISM — ADOPTION OF THE HUNGARIAN LANGUAGE
AS THAT OF THE COUNTRY— LIBERTY OF THE PRESS-—
LITERATURE— CONSTITUTION OF HUNGARY— -ABJECT CON-
DITION OF THE SERF — PRIVILEGES OF THE NOBILITY.

I HAVE already slightly alluded to the variety of
tribes inhabiting Hungary. To describe tbe cha-
racteristics of each minutely, would lead me too
much into detail ; but I must not omit to mention
a few traits of the lords of the country, the
Magyars, distinguished from every other by a
proud, haughty bearing, and a form finely pro-
portioned, indicating strength and agility,
although their height seldom exceeds the middle
size ; the eye is fiery, and the expression of the
countenance extremely animated; this is much
improved by the mustachio, which is never parted
with, from the first dawn of manhood to the
extreme verge of life.

The Magyar may also be known not less by his
customsand manners, than by the form of the towns

32 CHARACTER OF THE HUNGARfANS.

and villages he inhabits. He is fond of spacious
streets, houses, and rooms : the interior, however,
is never crowded with furniture, for the peasant
is abundantly contented if he can procure a table
and a couple of benches, which serve as seats by
day, and beds by night. True to the Nomadic
life of his Asiatic ancestors, he is always to be
found on the vast and fruitful plains of this exten-
sive country, preferring the rich pastures, where
his flocks and herds may roam at pleasure, and
where he himself may indulge in the sports of
the field, to agriculture. He therefore leaves the
more laborious employment of raising grain, as
unworthy a free son of the forest, to the Sclavo-
nian, German, and Wallachian boors.

The Arab of the desert never practised the
virtue of hospitality with more unbounded libe-
rality than the Magyar. The stranger is ever
sure to find a cordial welcome, not only in the
chateau of the magnat, but in the hut of the
peasant. Their character is also distinguished
for bravery, sincerity, and open-heartedness, and
their manners for a sort of straightforward blunt-
ness, indicating a greater love of truth than
courtesy. Strongly attached to liberty, they are
impatient of control, and submit with a bad grace
to any new laws which may tend to encroach,
even in the slightest degree, upon their national

PRESENT STATE OF HUNGARY. 33

independence ; consequently, the well-ordered
Austria, with all its complicated government
machinery, has never been able to impose upon
them the yoke of passports, and a hundred other
vexatious ordinances : hence the traveller, who has
once passed the frontier, may journey throughout
the whole of Hungary without the slightest in-
terruption. The Magyar is also so patriotic,
that he not only tells you, but firmly believes,
that his country is the freest and greatest in
the world.

Without questioning the truth or fallacy of
this conviction, there cannot be a doubt than au
entirely new epoch has arrived in the history of
Hungary, and that she may date her regeneration
from the day she extorted from her German king
permission to adopt the Hungarian language as
that of the country. This measure will not only
tend to cement the various races of which the
population is composed, but create a national
feeling in all classes, — a feeling which it had been
the constant policy of Austria, from the period
when the Hungarian sceptre first passed into the
hand of her monarchs, to repress. To this end
the great magnats of the land were cajoled by
courtly flattery, which produced the desired ef-
fect ; for, until the present moment, never was a
country more neglected by its landed aristocracy.

VOL. I. D

34 ADVANCEMENT OF LITEBATURE,

Prior to this important concession, the Latin
and German languages were adopted by the
government) the diet, and the public tribunals ;
they were also used in all the national docu-
ments, and even in commercial transactions.
Whereas, we now find all the great men of the
country, men as eminent for their talents as their
high rank and wealth, engaged in perfecting their
native language and literature. Authors are en-
couraged by pecuniary assistance, supplied from
funds contributed expressly for that purpose, both
by the Diet and voluntary contributions ; and as
no law exists to control the press, the Austrian
censorship not being recognised by the Hunga-
rian government, we find that a newspaper is
published at Pest, advocating the most liberal
principles, sanctioned by authority. Several works
also have been recently written, alike remarkable
for truth of argument and energy of diction, de-
monstrating the necessity of reforming the various
abuses in the national institutions : and many of
the magnats being themselves authors, have im-
parted an additional impetus to literature. With
these aids, in addition to steam navigation and
commerce, we may confidently predict, that the
regeneration of the Hungarian people will gra-
dually but certainly advance, till their social and
political institutions, purified of their numerous

CONDITION OF THE SERF. 35

abuses, shall be placed upon a basis at once firm
and secure.

Indeed, if we contemplate the constitution of
Hungary as at present established, and examine
each separate part, how numerous are the reforms
required, how various the difficulties to be sur-
mounted, before the country can be pronounced
in a healthy state. The situation of the peasant,
and the absurd rights of the nobility, are still, the
most prominent evils in the social fabric, even
though much has been already done to ameliorate
the condition of the serf. It is true, he is no
longer the absolute property of the lord of the
soil, yet his situation is scarcely less dependent ;
for besides the heavy tax imposed on him by his
seigneur, both in labour and produce, he is
obliged to support, in conjunction with the citi-
zen, the heavy impositions of the government,
military and civil ; while, on the other hand, thd
privileges of the noble are valuable and exclusi ve«
He alone can hold possession of landed property,
he alone is exempt from taxes, custom-house
duties, and from the necessity of maintaining the
military by billeting, &c. In short, on his own
domain, the noble of Hungary is a species of
independent sovereign.

Another and still greater mischief of which
Hungary has to complain, is, that she is overrun

D 2

36 PRIVILEGES OF THE NOBILITY.

with a poor and proud nobility, the bane of every
country burdened with them. Whatever change
may have the effect of depriving these of their
prerogatives, provokes a body of malcontents suf-
ficiently numerous, and gifted with sufiicient mind,
to break down the mounds and dikes which dam
in the tide of revolutionary fury.

In order to explain the presence of this over-
whelming proportion of noble families, we must
refer to the precarious situation of the house of
Hapsburg during the reign of Maria Theresa,
who, desirous of encouraging the bravery of the
Hungarians, gave a patent of nobility to every
man who had killed his enemy in battle. This
being hereditary in the whole of the children, we
find, as a consequence, that almost every second
man we meet is a noble. Several of the wealthy
magnats have established the law of primogeni-
ture in their families, by which means their rank
and influence are properly supported : but unfor-
tunately this practice is not general, the estate
being usually divided in equal proportions among
the children ; hence the swarms of pauper nobles,
at once proud, indolent, ignorant, and rapacious,
whose crimes fearfully swell the catalogue of
offences against law and morality.

With respect to the remedy for this evil, va-
rious conflicting opinions are entertained. It is,

PRIVILEGES OF THE NOBILITY. 37

however, intended to confer upon the inferior
nohility the blessings of a better system of educa-
tion, with the intention of preparing them for the
important changes about to be effected. By a
wise foresight, every amelioration in the intel-
lectual condition of the great mass of the people
is proceeded in with the greatest care and caution,
it being apprehended, that should the veil which
shrouds their real condition from their view be
prematurely withdrawn, a sanguinary revolution
might be the consequence.

But to return to the privileges of the nobility.
I understand that a measure will be introduced
next year to the Diet, for the purpose of
abrogating their right to be exclusively the
proprietors of land, and which my friends in-
formed me will be warmly supported by all the
enlightened patricians of Hungary. Should
this pass^into a law, it will have the effect of
encouraging the rich mercantile classes and fo-
reigners to purchase landed property, and of
giving an impetus to agriculture and commerce.
The education of the inferior nobility and pea-
sants also, if persisted in, will, it is to be hoped,
have the effect of rendering the eradication of
whatever diseases may exist in the, body politic
practicable, without the interposition of violent
remedies. - '

38 EXCURSION TO THE

In pointing out the evils in the administration
of Hungary, 1 must not forget to mention that,
in common with the other provinces of the Aus-
trian empire, she is subjected to the tame iso«
lating system which that jealous government
invariably establishes in all her dependencies.
Hence, it is only with the greatest difficulty that
the natural products of this most fertile country
can find an outlet ; while, for her domestic con-
sumption, she is doomed to be inundated with
the ill-fabricated and high-priced manufactures of
Austria.*

The only excursion I made in the vicinity of
Pest was to the Balaton lake, and the mineral
bath Fured, denominated, from the peculiar
nature of its waters, the Pyrmont of Hungary ;

* Since these volumes have been written, the author is
happy to say, that tlie Austrian government, in compliance
with the urgent demands of the Hungarian Diet, and no
doubt influenced by weighty political considerations, has
at length consented to form more liberal commercial regu-
lations. The recent treaty of commerce entered into be-
tween Austria and Ekigland, so advantageous to both
nations, cannot fiul, in process of time, to establish between
the inhabitants a reciprocity of interests, which, while it
enriches them, will form the most effectual barrier against the
aggressive policy of Russia, and defeat her ambitious schemes
upon the independence of thos« beautiful and fertile countries
watered by the Lower Danube.

BALATON LAKE. 39

and aa it is only twenty leagues distant, I would
recommend every traveller, who may be an
admirer of beautiful scenery, to visit it. The
invalid, also, who may be in search of health, will
there meet with every accommodation, hotels,
medical attendants, &c. He will likewise have
the satisfaction of finding that no very heavy
demands are made upon his purse ; while good
society, a theatre, and assembly rooms, will effec-
tually secure him from the intrusion of ennui.
To this we may add, that being situated on the
shores of the Balaton lake, in the midst of a rural,
undulating country^ laid out in promenades, the
pedestrian may enjoy without fatigue an endless
variety of the most charming prospects which this
fine lake and delightful country afford to the ad-
mirer of natural scenery.

One of the most popular pilgrimages in the
environs of the bath is to the romantic Tihany,
a fairy-like peninsula situated in the Balaton
lake, containing a pretty village, and a monas-
tery belonging to a community of monks.
The whole of their little territory, about three
leagues in circumference, is completely sur-
rounded by a chain of rocks, where they have
their own forests, pastures, corn-fields, and
vineyards. It was formerly strongly fortified,
and the remains of the walls, castle, and

40 EXCURSION TO THE

watch-tower still exist ; but the most interesting
objects are the caverns which the monks of the
middle ages ingeniously constructed, for the
purpose of protecting themselves and their
property against the frequent devastations of
their predatory neighbours the Turks.

The Balaton lake, termed, on account of its
length, (upwards of twenty leagues,) the Sea of
Hungary, deserves a visit from the traveller,
were it for nothing else than to feast upon the
rare and delicious fish called the yb^a^, (a species
of perca ludoperca^) which, I believe, is only
found in this lake, and frequently weighs as much
as twenty pounds. The banks are not more in-
teresting to the tourist than the geologist ; for on
the northern side, towards Keszthely, we find an
isolated rock, composed of stupendous masses of
basalt, evidently an extinct volcano ; which, from
the singularity of its situation in the midst of a
plain, seems as if it had fallen from the heavens,
since the neighbouring rocks, composed of lime-
stone, present a continuous range.

The sand found on the shore is principally
composed of iron ore and soda ; this explains the
circumstance of the water being slightly impreg-
nated with mineral ; and singular enough, not-
withstanding the lake is usually of a crystal
clearness, yet it invariably becomes turbid on the

BALATON LAKE. 41

approach of a storm. It is also said to ebb and
flow ; and though I did not remain long enough
in its vicinity to determine the fact by personal
observation, yet I certainly noticed that the water
at one time became singularly agitated and in-
creased in volume, even when there was not the
slightest wind that could produce such an effect.

In addition to the excellent fish I have already
mentioned, the cyprinus culprattis and clupea
alhumus are found here : in appearance they are
not unlike our sword-fish, and their visits peri-
odical, like the herring ; they are taken in vast
quantities, and when potted, or dried, form an
extensive article of commerce, being much prized
for their fine flavour. The helix vivi para are
also inhabitants of this lake, and cray-fish are
taken in such numbers at the mouth of the Szala,
as to afford a plentiful supply to all the restau-
rants of Vienna and Pest, where they are much
valued by the fastidious gourmands of these
wealthy capitals.

In some parts of the lake the banks are com-
posed of curious fossil shells, among which there
is one called by the peasants '* goats'-feet." This
appellation owes its origin to an old legend of
Hungary^ to the effect that her great king and
patron^ St. Stephen, at one time a fugitive,
wandered along the banks of the lake ; and being

42 EXCURSION TO THE BALATON LAKE.

eDtirely destitute of resources, applied for hos-
pitality to a rich landed proprietor in the vicinity,
who inhumanly drove him from his door. The
saint, violently incensed, cursed the churlish land-
holder, and all that belonged to him ; when im-
mediately pestilence swept away his cattle, fire
consumed his houses, disease destroyed his fa-
mily, and a dreadful hurricane hurled his nume-
rous flocks of goats from the steep sides of the
rocks into the lake : and that this wonderful
l^end should not want confirmation, their petri-
fied hoofs are constantly being thrown up in the
form of shells !

VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE. 43

LETTER V.

LBATB PBST FOR OALATZ^THE PANNONIA STEAM-BOAT — PAS-

8BN6BRS -COUNT ESTBRHAZT BUFFALOES — ASPECT OF

THB COUNTRY -^-PBTBBWABDBINy THB GIBRALTAR OF THE
DANDBB — MILITARY CORDON OF AUSTRIA — FLOURISHING
STATB OF THB COLONY — COSTUME OF THB PBOPLlb

The directors of the steam navigation having
decided on despatching a new steam-boat down
the Danube to Galatz, for the purpose of ascer-
taining how far it was practicable, from the great
height the water had attained, to cross the dan-
gerous cataract called the Iron Gate, I resolved
to make one of her passengers on the somewhat
hazardous expedition ; for though various works
are in progress to facilitate this object, yet steam
navigation had not hitherto been attempted on
that part of the river.

The Pannonia is a pretty little flat-bottomed
boat, of thirty-six horse power ; its form and inte-
rior arrangements being similar to those running
between London and Gravesend. She is com-
manded by a well-behaved Venetian, Giovanni

44 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

Clician. The accommodation was excellent, so
far as regarded a ladies' cabin, and a large saloon
fiimished with divans, the whole kept remarkably
clean ; but there being no regular berths, the
sofas performed the duty of beds, and the tra-
veller is much inconvenienced while performing
his toilet. The same censure is also applicable
to this boat as to the Nador^ with respect to
refreshments, which were considered by the pas-
sengers as too high-priced for a country where
provisions may be purchased at a lower rate than
in any other part of Europe. The stranger^
however, has the advantage of being able to re-
sort to a fixed tariff, in which the price of every
article has been regulated by the directors of the
steam navigation company.

We had but few passengers on board, and
these were principally Hungarian noblemen on
their way to the fashionable bath M ehadia^ in the
Banate. I was much pleased to find among them
my old friend Count Francis Esterhazy ; there
were also several Austrian dragoon ofiicers, pro-
ceeding to join their regiments in lower Hungary.
I was equally surprised and gratified on discover-
ing one of them to be an Englishman, Lieutenant
Isaacson; from whom I learned that several of our
countrymen since the peace had entered the Aus-
trian army as cadets, where it appears their ser-

PEST TO GALATZ. 45

vices are highly prized, and meet with every
encouragement.

The scenery, after leaving Pest, was neither
interesting nor striking, consisting principally of
immense plains, upon which herds of cattle, in-
cluding great numbers of buffaloes, were feeding,
apparently to their hearts' content, the herbage
being most luxuriant. I cannot but think that
the latter would be an acquisition to the farmer
in England, and would find themselves quite at
home while wallowing in the fens of Lincolnshire.
Count Esterhazy, himself a great landed pro-
prietor, informed me their flesh, while young, was
quite equal to the best veal, and their milk infi-
nitely richer than that of the cow : besides, from
their great strength, they would be found very
serviceable in performing agricultural labours.

Water-mills, islands covered with foliage, a few
straggling villages of the peasants, together with
the primitive vessels of the Danube boatmen, lent
their aid in giving some variety to the landscape ;
while numerous flocks of wild fowl rent the air
with their piercing cries, and the very eagles,
unaccustomed to being disturbed by man in
this half-deserted country, approached our vessel
almost within pistol-shot.

At Apatin, the Danube forms a considerable
curve ; when, after swelling into a foaming surge,

46 PETERWARDEIN.

and being increased by the accession of the Drave,
the turbulent stream , with a loud roar, bore us
quickly forward to Erdod. This little town is
supposed to be built on the spot where the ancient
Teutoburgum once stood, on account of the num-
ber of Roman antiquities found in the neigh-
bourhood. It is pleasantly situated on a small
peninsula of hills covered with vineyards, and
rendered still more picturesque by a venerable
castle belonging to the family of the Counts
Palffy. Here also commences the extensive pro-
vince of Sclavonia. Shortly after passing another
ruin, called Scharengrad, a range of fine pictu-
resque hills relieves the plain from its almost
unvaryinguniformity, which continued improving
in beauty till we arrived at Beges, a town belong-
ing to Count Brunswick, a short distance from
Peterwardein, the Gibraltar of the Danube, where
we cast anchor for the night.

Peterwardein, or, as the Hungarians call it,
Petervara-Varadin, is said to have been honoured
by being the birth-place of the famous Peter the
Hermit, of crusade-preaching • memory. The
fortress, from being situated on an isolated hill,
is most formidable as a military position, sweep-
ing every approach by land or water : it is also
so extensive, as to be capable of receiving a
garrison of ten thousand men. The town is

AUSTRIAN MILITARY CORDON. 47

united with Neusatz, on the opposite bank, by a
well-constructed bridge of boats, containing to-
gether a population of about twenty thousand.
Peterwardein is one of the most important
stations of the military cordon established by
Austria to protect her provinces in this part of
the empire from the predatory incursions of the
Turks, and the entrance of the plague. This
admirable cordon extends from the Bocca di
Cattaroy in Lower Dalmatia on the Adriatic, to
the Bukovina on the frontiers of Poland ; tra-
versing the provinces of Croatia, Sclavonia,
Hungary, and Transylvania: being a distance
of four hundred and fifty-five leagues, inhabited
by a population of nearly one million two
hundred thousand, who hold their lands, rights,
and privileges on the express condition of per-
forming military service in defence of the fron-
tiers. To this every man is liable, from the
age of eighteen to fifty ; after which time, for
the next ten years, they have to perform the
duties usually entrusted to superannuated sol-
diers.

The whole of the cordon ndlitaire contains
seventeen regiments of infantry, one of hussars,
and a battalion of marines, who are employed
in the armed boats on the rivers. Each regi-
ment, in time of peace, consists only of two

48 AUSTRIAN MILITARY CORDON.

battalions, or twelve companies, the half of which
(five thousand) are constantly occupied in guard-
ing the frontiers ; but when the plague makes its
appearance in the Turkish provinces, their num-
bers are increased to seven or even ten thousand :
and in cases of emergency, such as when an
invading army threatens to cross the frontiers,
they can bring into the field upwards of thirty-
three thousand well- disciplined troops. Each
regiment elects' its own colonel, who unites with
his military authority that of a civil magistrate.
Every two regiments are commanded by a bri-
gadier-general ; and every two brigades by
what the Austrians term a general commando^
of whom there are four, stationed in various dis-
tricts on the line of frontier, and acting under the
immediate orders of the minister of war at
Vienna.

Along the whole line a range of guard-houses
has been erected, sufficiently near to communi-
cate with each other : and when a river inter-
venes, they are built on pontoons. Those in the
mountain districts, being hewn out of the rock,
are most formidable ; and as they are frequently
hid from observation by embankments, or shaded
by foliage, they become a fatal ambuscade
against an invading army. Each of these guard-
houses is sufficiently large to contain twelve

AUSTRIAN MILITARY CORDON. 49

men ; this number, however, varies according
to circumstances, as we find them only guarded
at present by four men and a sentinel.

Behind this chain are the guard-houses of the
ofl5cers, furnished with alarm-bells, &c. ; by
which means, in cases of extreme danger, the in-
habitants of the whole line of this immense fron-
tier can be assembled under arms in less than
four hours. No traveller is permitted to cross
the line without applying to the nearest military
station; and during the prevalence of the
plague, or in time of war, he is liable to be
shot by the nearest sentinel, if he does not
immediately reply to the challenge, by standing
still, and answering the customary interrogato-
ries.

This very interesting district, which only
twenty years since was regarded by the Austrian
officers sent thither as a sort of transportation,
presents at the present day so improved an
aspect, that the traveller never fails to con-
gratulate himself on entering the country in-
cluded in the military cordon ; where he finds
not only some of the best kept roads in the
Austrian empire, but good inns. The towns

9

and villages are also better built, and frequently
adorned with public promenades for the amuse-
ment of the people, whom he sees on Sundays and

VOL. I. E

50 AUSTRIAN MILITARY CORDON.

holidays dressed in their finery, and dancing to
the merry sounds of the violin and the bagpipe.
The agricultural fields of these military peasants,
when contrasted with those of the poor degraded
serfs, their neighbours, also exhibit, in their
neatness and high degree of cultivation, the in-
dustry of the inhabitants, and the real interest
they have in the soil ; nor are their little pictu-
resque cottages, surrounded by blooming gar-
dens, less indicative of the comfort and indepen-
dence they enjoy ; for here neither the exacting
hand of a rapacious seigneur, nor of a heartless
tax-gatherer, is felt to rob the poor peasant of the
produce of his labour. In short, the whole of
the districts included in the military cordon,
whether situated in the vicinity of the^ wild
hordes inhabiting the countries of Lower Dal-
matia, or the Buckowina adjoining Russo-Bessa-
rabia, present a picture of civilisation^ prosperity,
and contentment, cheering to the heart of every
philanthropic traveller who may visit them.

These military peasants live in a state of the
most patriarchal simplicity; for we often find
several generations, amounting even to seventy
persons, residing amicably beneath the same
roof. In some instances, families united by con-
sanguinity form themselves into communities,
devote their common labour to the cultivation of

AUSTRIAN MILITARY CORDON. 51

the soil, and divide the produce in equal shares ;
they also generally elect the man, whose conduct
is the most exemplary, as a sort of chief, who, in
such domestic dissensions as may arise between
them, fulfils the office of judge.

Whenever these communities are established,
each provides its own soldiers from the common
fund, with uniforms and rations while performing
military duty, which is by no means severe, as
it only occupies one-third of their time, the re-
mainder being reserved for agricultural labour,
&c.

Although the military language of the in-
habitants of these military colonies is German,
yet they are, with few exceptions, Sclavoniana,
Wallachians, and Hungarians, intermingled
with Greeks, Germans, Jews, and Gipsies, each
retaining their peculiar costume and language.
Notwithstanding this diversity of people, the
difference in their customs, manners, and re-
ligion ; broils and disputes, owing to the strict
subordination preserved among them by their
chiefs, are rarely heard of, and crime in its darker
shades, I was informed from good authority, is
nearly unknown. This results from the circum-
stance, that poverty and idleness, those fruitful
sources of evil, here can never intrude ; for every
man must perform his military duties, and pursue

E 2

62 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

hi» individual occupation, whether as agricultu-
rist, artisan, manufacturer, &c. ; while each se-
parate community makes ample provision for the
aged and helpless of its members.

Human nature could scarcely have devised a
more efficient barrier for the protection of an
extensive empire like Austria than those military
colonies^ as they are at once effectual to their
end, and little or no expense to the government.
Every man being a soldier, and at the same
time a proprietor of land, patriotism and interest
combine to inspire him with a degree of courage
and determination to defend his father-land, un-
known to the mere mercenary, who enters the
service of his country solely with the view of
earning a daily pittance. Above all, in despotic
countries, what military enthusiasm can be ex-
pected from the poor peasant who is torn from
his home, and compelled to enter the ranks ?
Thus Austria has, at the present day, the double
satisfaction of seeing countries, that were for-
merly a desert, inhabited by a prosperous, a
happy people, and her widely extended frontier
guarded by men capable of arresting even the
serious invasion of an enemy, at least till she
would be able to despatch an adequate force to
their support.

In that part of the military banate of Hun-

VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE. 53

gary and Selavonia through which we now
travelled, the inhabitants having been exposed
for centuries to the inroads of their predatory
neighbours, the Turks and Tartars, scarcely ever
leave home, on any occasion, without being
well armed ; and not unfrequently we see the
women, Amazon-like, with a brace of pistols
in their girdles, to say nothing of the poniard,
which they never part with. The warlike
appearance of the men imparted quite a novel
aspect to the landscape, as we beheld them from
the deck of our steamer, enveloped in the folds
of their scarlet capuchins and mantles, striding
through the deep valleys, or climbing up the
steep mountains, with their long guns slung
across the shoulder.

54 CAKLOWITZ.

LETTER VI.

CARLOWITZ — BIVEB THEISS INSALUBRITY OF ITS BANKS —

SBMLIN — BELGBADE — FOBTIFICATIONS — PBINCIPALITY OF

SERVIA FERTILITY OF THE COUNTBY — VAST HEBDS OF

SWINE — PBINCE MILOSCH — HIS GOVERNMENT SIMPLICITY

OF THE LAWS COSTUME OF THE SERVIANS AND SCLAVO-

NIANS — CASTLE OF SEMENDRIA — TURKISH FORTIFICATIONS

SUBLIME SCENEBY OF THE DANUBE — CASTLE OF GOLU-

BACS ^SINOULAB POISONOUS FLY — THEIB DREADFUL RA-
VAGES.

After leaving Peterwardein, the right bank of
the river presented a dreary plain of sand, the
effect of repeated inundations, till we came to
Carlowitz, one of the free military towns included
in the cordon. Its situation, at the foot of a
group of vine-clad hills, is most picturesque : nor
is this the only advantage derived from these
luxuriant vineyards, for the wine they produce
is some of the best in Hungary ; and the liqueur
Absynthe, which is made here in large quan-
tities, is equally celebrated.

The only town worth mentioning between Car-
lowitz and Semlin is Slankamen, the Ritium of

VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE. 55

the Romans. Here the Theiss, one of the most
important rivers of Hungary, when viewed in
connexion with commerce, forms a junction with
the Danube, after having traversed an immense
tract of that country, and also of Transylvania*
The banks of this river are, with few exceptions,
considered unhealthy, partly owing to the slug-
gish pace at which the stream travels, and partly
to the inundations, which, on retiring, leave ex-
tensive marshes; but though sufficiently inju-
rious to the health of man, the miasma does not
appear to have the same effect upon that of the
finny tribe, who are found here in abundance
unequalled by any other European river. At its
mouth I saw, for the first time, the Danube fleet,
a small flotilla of gunboats ; the bloated^ pallid
countenances of the marines who manned them,
sadly evidenced the insalubrity of the station.

We now steered our course between nume-
rous small islands to Semlin, advantageously situ-
ated a short distance from Belgrade, where the
Save runs into the Danube, after having formed
the frontier between Hungary and the Turkish
province of Servia. At Semlin we were detained
four hours, before the military commander could
find leisure to sign our passports. Did this ori-
ginate from culpable inattention to the duties of
his office? Or is the Austrian government soli-

56 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

citous to throw every obstacle in the way of the
steam navigation of the Danube ? We here took
in a supply of coal, which, the English engineer
informed me, was of a quality equal to any we
have in England.

The once-celebrated fortress of Belgrade, so
long the object of contention between the Hunga-
rians and the Osmanlis, now presents no sterner
aspect than a picturesque ruin ; but the style of
buildings in the town, and the numerous minarets
of the mosques, are so completely Eastern, that the
attention of the European traveller is forcibly
aiTested. The citadel, erected on a bold pro-
montory' between the junction of the Save and
the Danube, is, in a military point of view, most
formidable ; and if properly repaired and garri-
soned, together with the fortifications on the low
ground at the junction of the rivers, sweeping,
as they do, every approach by land or water, they
might defy the strongest efforts of an enemy^
Here I first observed a few boats with sails;
which proved that this people, so little advanced
in civilisation, were yet better navigators than
any I had hitherto seen on the Danube.

The villages on the Servian side of the river
were extremely miserable, the huts appearing
unworthy of any better inhabitants^han quad-
rupeds. The country, however, seemed most

B£LGRADC. 57

fertile, being beautifully variegated with noble
trees, blooming corn-fields, pastures, and vine-
yards : indeed such is its fecundity, I was assured
by one of our passengers, a landed proprietor of
Servia, that the country is capable of nourishing
a population of five millions ; whereas, at pre-
sent, it contains no more than about half a
million. In fact, these provinces are still in a
most primitive state, and land may be purchased
at nearly as little cost as in the back settlements
of North America. The inhabitants devote the
soil, principally, to the maintenance of vast
herds of swine, which prove very profitable ; for
a peasant, at first possessed of merely a dozen,
finds himself, in consequence of their rapid mul-
tiplication, in a short time the master of hun-
dreds ; and having the privilege of turning them
into the extensive forests which abound in Servia,
their food costs nothing. For a market he re-
sorts to Hungary, where he ever finds a ready
sale ; from whence they are transported into
Austria, being highly valued by the accom-
plished gourmands of Vienna, on account of their
exquisite flavour.

The Hungarian side of the Danube now pre-
sented one vast plain covered with immense flocks
of sheep, herds of cattle, horses, &c., attended

58 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

by most patriarchal-looking shepherds. But to
return to Turkish Servia : — This interesting
country is fast advancing in civilisation under the
sway of Prince Milosch, who, though originally
an uneducated peasant, is yet worthy, by his
talents and virtues, of the high station to which
fate has advanced him. He has given a constitu-
tion to his people, left trade unfettered by restric-
tions, his ports on the Danube are open to ships
of every nation, and foreigners are encouraged to
settle in the country for the purpose of assisting
to civilise the natives. Another benefit result-
ing from his administration is the safety with
which a traveller may now journey through his
dominions ; whereas, only a few years since, the
roads were infested by bands of robbers. His
system of police is at once simple and efficacious:
for whenever a robbery or murder is committed,
the inhabitants of the nearest village or town are
made responsible for the deed, and must either
find the delinquent, or pay a considerable fine.

Another regulation of the law is, that should
any article of value be found on the highway, it
must be left on the spot where it was discovered ;
the presumption being, that the owner will return
and claim his property. However singular this
method of governing may appear to more civilised

PRINCE MILOSCH. 59

nations, yet in this it has certainly the effect
of making the people, who are not yet emerged
from primitive barbarism, honest.

The dress of the Servian peasantry is not un-
picturesque, consisting of a red cap, a linen tunic
descending below the knees, confined by a leather
belt embroidered with silk or wool ; over this is
worn a drab-coloured jacket with red facings :
they no longer carry arms, but have instead a long
knife stuck in the girdle. The women who, from
their small Grecian features and well-formed feet
and ankles, deserve the appellation of pretty,
were also becomingly attired. They did not
appear confined to any particular head-dress:
some wore a shawl ; others a turban ; but the bet-
ter classes a red Grecian cap, confined by a band
of plaited silk, the same colour as their hair.

The peasantry on the Hungarian side of the
Danube, a Sclavonian race, had adopted a differ-
ent costume : the men wore for a head-dress
a cap made of curled wool, somewhat resem-
bling in appearance a mop without a handle;
and the women, whose attire was bizarre enough,
were clothed in a many-coloured woollen petti-
coat, which descended to the knee, and was then
finished with a broad plaited fringe that came
down to the ankle. Do not suppose that these
plaits were connected with each other ; on the

60 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

contrary, each hung like a separate pendant ;
and when the fair creature stepped, or a gust of
wind set the rattling fringe in motion, the effect
was very ludicrous ; and, certainly, of all the
feminine accoutrements it was ever my lot to
behold in Europe, these were the most unique.
The women of both countries were generally
employed in spinning from the distaff; and I fre-
quently saw them thus occupied, and at the same
time carrying a pail of milk on the head, and an
infant slung behind in a basket.

The scenery on the Servian side of the river
continued to improve, being finely wooded ;
while that of the Hungarian had nothing to relieve

the monotony, except a continued range of guard-
houses belonging to the military cordon to which
I have before alluded. The object that next
arrested my attention, was the town and castle of
Semendria. The castle is a most singular look-
ing building, of a triangular form, consisting of
twenty-seven towers joined together by curtains
apparently of solid masonry. No doubt, a fort
of this description is extremely formidable when
defended by Turks, owing to their known obsti-
nacy when fighting behind stone walls ; but it
does not come within the pale of what may be
called a regular fortification of the present day.
After descending the river a little further, we

COSTUME OF THE PEASANTS. 61

came to a succession of these Turkish fortiHcations,
all more or less in a dilapidated state.

A short distance below Palanka, the Hunga-
rian mountains in the Upper Banate approached
nearly in conjunction with those of Servia on
the opposite bank, and gradually contracting
the bed of the river, from about two English
miles in breadth to little more than a hundred
paces, converted the majestic stream into a tem-
pestuous torrent. The impetuosity of the river
continued to increase in violence, till we came
to the famous rock called Babakaly, rising out
of the centre of the river. Here the roaring
of the waters as they lashed its flinty sides, the
romantic ruins perched on the summits of the
rocks, the multitude of eagles hovering around,
and the wild character of the country, combined
to form a scene of singular beauty and grandeur,
far superior to any even the most sublime of the
Upper Danube.

During the wars between the Austrians and
Turks, this was the most formidable pass of the
river ; here the latter erected the fortified castle
of Golubacs, perched on the summit of a stupen-
dous rock ; now only remarkable as a picturesque
ruin, and for the singularity of its architecture,
with its nine towers, some square, others round
or triangular.

62 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

Near this place we found a range of caverns,
famous for producing the poisonous fly, too well
known in Servia and Hungary under the name of
the Golubacser fly. These singular and venom-
ous insects, somewhat resembling musquitoes,
generally make their appearance, during the first
great heat of summer, in such numbers as to seem
like vast volumes of smoke ; their attacks are
always directed against every description of quad-
ruped, and so potent is the poison they commu-
nicate, that even an ox is unable to withstand its
influence, for he always expires in less than two
hours. This results, not so much from the viru-
lence of the poison, as that every vulnerable part
is simultaneously covered with these most de-
structive insects ; when the wretched animals,
frenzied with pain, rush wild through the fields
till death puts a period to their sufierings, or they
accelerate dissolution by plunging headlong into
the rivers.

The shepherds of these countries, taught by
experience the time of their approach, previously
anoint every part of their flocks and herds, un-
protected by nature, with a strong decoction of
wormwood ; to which, it appears, these flies have
a great antipathy. In addition to this, the
shepherds keep immense fires constantly blazing ;
around which the poor animals, aware of their

SINGULAR POISONOUS FLY. 63

danger^ tremblingly and patiently congregate.
Kind nature has, however, mercifully ordained
that the existence of these destructive insects
shall be most ephemeral ; for the slightest varia*
tion in the weather is sufficient to destroy the
whole swarm ; hence they seldom live beyond a
few days. Indeed their very production seems
to depend upon the state of the weather : for in
those summers when the thermometer continues
low, they never make their appearance, except
in diminished numbers ; whereas, when great
heat and drought prevail during the whole of
that season, they have been known to swarm
two or even three times, although even then
their existence is always extremely brief.

Their ravages are principally confined to the
surrounding countries of Servia and the Hunga-
rian Banate : but Count Esterhazy informed me
that on some occasions they (or at least a similar
species of fly) have extended their flight as far as
his estates in the neighbourhood of Presburg,
where their attacks were fatal to numbers of his
cattle. The peasants for this, as for every other
phenomenon, have resorted to a miracle for expla-
nation ; and tell us that in these caverns the
renowned champion St. George killed the dra-
gon, whose decomposed remains have continued
to generate these insects down to the present day.

64 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

The probable supposition however is, that when
the Danube rises, which it always does in the
early part of summer, the caverns are flooded, and
the water remaining in them becomes putrid,
and produces, during the heat of summer, this
most noxious fly. Under this impression, the
inhabitants of the country, many years since,
closed up the mouths of the caverns with stone
walls, for the purpose of preventing their egress ;
but the expedient availed nothing, and the rush-
ing of the waters against the sides of the rocks,
in process of time, destroyed the useless defence :
so that it must be evident, either that the insects
are not generated here, or that the caverns have
subterraneous communications with some other
outlets at present unknown.

(55

LETTER VIT.

WHIRLPOOLS OF THE DANUBE — VETERANI CAVERN — ROMAN
ANTIQUITIES — MILANOVA— PASSPORTS— MEHADIA MINERAL
BATH EFFICACY OF THE WATERS BEAUTY OF THE SUR-
ROUNDING COUNTRY — NEU-ORSOVA — DETENTION OF THE
STEAM-BOAT BY THE PACHA — VISIT TO THE PACHAi — AUS-
TRIAN TIM IDITY — CATARACT OF THE DANUBE — PANNONIA
THE FIRST STEAM-BOAT THAT PASSED IT — WILD CHARACTER
OF THE SCENERY — PRINCIPALITY OF WALLACHI A — KLADOVA
—TURKISH PILOTS.

In my last letter I informed you of our arrival at
GolubacSy and I felt not a little pleased to learn
that our bark was now about to glide through
some of the most beautiful scenery of the Danube.
The mountains increased in altitude as we ad-
vanced, and the curves in the river formed a suc-
cession of the most charming lakes, till we came
to the whirlpool called Tachtalia, an object of
great terror to the navigators ; and not without
some reason, for many a vessel has here sunk to
rise no more : even so lately as the year 1833,
we were informed that five were wrecked.

This danger arises from the circumstance that

VOL. I. F

66 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

the bed of the river is here entirely formed of
isolated masses of perpendicular rocks, between
which it is necessary for the pilot to steer with
great caution, but more particularly when the
water is shallow; for should a vessel deviate
from the right channel, it runs the risk of being
carried away by the impetuous violence of the
stream, and dashed to pieces by the foaming
surge, as it rebounds from rock to rock. The
diflSculties in the navigation have, however, been
considerably lessened within these few years by
the judicious efforts of the directors of the steam
navigation on the Danube, who have caused the
most dangerous rocks to be blasted ; so that at
present the only hazard arises from the negli-
gence of the captain, who may employ an inex-
perienced pilot.

We journeyed on through a continuation of
whirlpools, surrounded by scenery of a similar
character to that I have already described, till we
came to the cavern Piscabora, famous for having
been so bravely defended by the gallant Austrian
general, M. Veterani, against the Turks in 1692;
since which time it has borne his name. This
excavation, entirely the work of nature, is capable
of containing from six to seven hundred men, in-
dependently of an adjoining cavern well adapted
to serve as a powder magazine ; and from its situa-

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES. 67

tion in the rocks, is not ^nly impregnable, but
completely commands the river. Its importance
as a military position seems to have been disco-
vered by the Romans, for we find the remains of an
inscription to that effect in its vicinity : indeed we
are everywhere reminded, in the countries near
this part of the Danube, of the dominion of the
Roman empire. On the Servian side there are
the remains of the road cut by Trajan along the
sides of the rock, now used by the peasants as a
footpath ; together with the tablet erected to
immortalise the conquest of Dacia by the same
emperor. It bears the form of a scroll, supported
by winged genii, having on each side a dolphin,
and in the centre the Roman eagle ; but in con-
sequence of the Danube boatmen, who have been
accustomed to stop here with their vessels and
kindle fires, it has been deplorably mutilated ;
so that the only portion of the inscription now
visible is the two first lines,

IMP. C>ES. Dt NERVi€. FILIUS NERVA TRAJANUS.
OERM. PONT. (MAX) IMUS. . . .

A few miles further, a pretty modern village,
built by Prince Milosch and called Milanova,
after his son Mila, gladdens the eye of the tra-
veller ; and at Alt Orsova, the last town in Hun-
gary, we were again obliged to remain four hours,
while the Austrian authorities affixed their signa-

F 2

68 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

tures to our passports, whereas a quarter of an
hour would have been amply sufficient for the
purpose. Here I lost the society of my venerable
and respected friend, Count Esterhazy, who was
proceeding to the baths of Mehadia, one of the
most amiable and excellent men I ever travelled
with, and whose memory, even if I had no other
reasons, would be sufficient to induce me ever to
respect Hungary and the Hungarians.

This pretty bath, which I visited some years
since, has become, partly in consequence of the
steam navigation on the Danube, (from whence it
is distant only a few leagues,) and partly from the
inherent efficacy of the waters, extremely popular.
They were known to the Romans, who called
them — from the high temperature of the water,
exceeding forty-seven degrees of Reaumur, and
also probably from the copiousness of the supply
exceeding that of any other in Europe, " Ther-
mae Herculis ad aquas."

There are twenty-two springs, nine of which
are at present in use ; and if we may believe the
accounts of their healing powers, they effect a
cure in most chronic cases of scrofula, cutaneous
diseases, rheumatism, gout, contractions of the
limbs, coD^umption of the lungs, diseases of the
eyes, &c. Nor do their sanative qualities con-
stitute the only attraction of these baths, for the

NEU-ORSOVA. 69

siirroundiDg country is beautiful, abounding with
romantic valleys and lofty hills. In addition to
this, the climate is so mild, that we find the fig, and
other trees peculiar to southern climes, growing
wild in the woods ; and at the same time so genial,
that the most delicate invalid may remain exposed
to the air until a very late hour in the evening.
Promenades are laid out with shady alleys in the
vicinity, and several fine hotels have been recently
constructed and fitted up with every accommoda-
tion for the visiters, who may here indulge in all the
moderate luxuries of life for about a dollar a day !
Upon approaching the Turkish fortress Neu-
Orsova, an officer belonging to the garrison hailed
the vessel, and informed us that^ unless we were
provided with a firman, we could not pass. This
intelligence was anything but agreeable, for nei-
ther the captain nor any of the passengers pos
sessed the desired document. The matter was
long debated between the captain of the steam-
boat and several Austrian ofiicers, passengers ;
and at length it was agreed that we should return
to Alt-Orsova till the firman could be procured.
I found, however, that the captain, a very spirited
man, was inclined to go forward, on the ground
that permission had been already generally ac-
corded for the free navigation of the Danube ; I
therefore proposed to the Austrian major that we

70 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

should proceed together to the fortress, and learn
from the Pacha himself the cause of our deten-
tion. After long debating the matter, pro and
coUy like a true German, he at length consented ;
and accordingly, attended by an officer of the sana-
tory guard, we set off for the fortress, a miserable
half-ruined building.

We were immediately introduced to the Pacha,
a fair-complexioned fine-looking man, about forty
years of age, with a most patriarchal beard ; he
was dressed in the Turkish uniform, a dark blue
frock coat, light blue pantaloons, and a red cloth
cap with a very large blue silk tassel. He re-
ceived us most affably, and his manners would
have done no discredit to a courtier of St. James's.
Previous to commencing our negociation, coffee
was brought in, which, as is invariably the case in
Turkey, was excellent, and served in a style of
much elegance. The tray was covered with an
embroidered napkin, edged with silver fringe ; and
the cups, of the finest Chinese porcelain, rested
upon silver stands.

The Austrian officer, who spoke the Turkish
language fluently, introduced me to the Pacha.
The worthy Turk, upon learning that I was an
Englishman, received me with the most marked
courtesy ; and when we had taken coffee and
smoked our tchibouques, we related the object of

AUSTRIAN TIMIDITY. 71

our luission, to which he listened with the most
polite attention. After deliberating a few minutes
with his officers, he replied, that he had received
instructions from his government not to permit
any foreign vessel to pass down the Danube with-
out a firman ; ^^ but/' continued he, smiling, '^ my
orders do not include a mandate to fire, in case
you choose to proceed on your own responsibility.
In that event, however, I shall send an express
to my superior officer, the Governor Pacha of
Widdin." We then made our conge and departed.

Upon detailing the particulars of our interview
to the remainder of the passengers, they with one
consent announced their intention of quitting the
boat. ^^ What !" said the well-trained Austrians,
" journey on in open defiance of established autho-
rity ? Impossible. Suppose the Pacha should
take it into his head that sending a few bullets at
ours was a duty incumbent upon him, are we to
sacrifice our lives for a foolish firman ? No.
Proceed, captain, if you will ; but we must,
though very reluctantly, bid you adieu ;** and
they instantly quitted the vessel, leaving me the
honour of being the first traveller who had jour-
neyed down the whole of the lower Danube in a
steam -boat from Vienna to the Black Sea.

After proceeding a little further, we came to
the famous cataract of the Danube, called by the

72 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

Turks Demirkapi, or the iron gate, so termed
because it was formerly deemed impassable; but
now, in consequence of the height the river had
attained, we crossed this formidable pass without
•nuch difficulty. Thus our steam-vessel was the
first which had accomplished this somewhat
perilous feat, the directors of the steam naviga-
gation company having hitherto provided car-
riages for the conveyance of their passengers by
land over this part of the route. To obviate this
inconvenience, it is proposed to cut a canal on
the Servian side, the company preferring this
alternative to that of deepening the bed of the
river, which would be a most expensive under-
taking. Indeed, upon surveying the ground
through which it is intended to pass, we cannot
avoid coming to the conclusion that a canal had
formerly existed there, most probably the work
of the Romans ; which, on their expulsion from
the country, fell into disuse, and in process of
time became filled up.

The Demirkapi cataract, unquestionably the
most sublime part of the Danube from its source
in the Black Forest of Germany to the Euxine,
is considerably heightened in picturesque efiect
by tlie wild character of the surrounding country.
Here the majestic river, pent up in a narrow
channel, rushes between stupendous rocks down

DEMIRKAPI CATARACT, 73

the descent >¥ith the rapidity of lightning, and
with a crash so tremendous as to overpower every
other sound ; while the foaming surge, as it broke
with violence over the deck, and lashed the sides
of our vessel, gave to the river the appearance
of the sea when agitated by a storm. Nor was
this all ; for before our arrival at the cataract,
we had to pass through a succession of whirl-
pools and inconsiderable waterfalls, which,
though not dangerous, added very much to the
romantic character of our voyage.

We had now passed all the horrors of the
Danube, and the turbulence of the stream gra-
dually subsided. The right bank still continued
Servia, while on the left we had the principality
X}f Wallachia, at whose first town,Kladova, we cast
anchor. During the time occupied by tlie autho-
rities in signing our passports, the captain and
myself accepted the invitation of the agent of the
steam-vessel, who resided here. Our host and
his wife, a pretty little woman, were Hungarians ;
they entertained us most hospitably, and I was not
a little surprised to find in this remote part of the
world, among many other luxuries of the table,
ices, exquisite confectionery, and delicious wines.
The lady, however, did not forget to tell us that
she was nobly born, and bitterly lamented the
want of society in the desert which now formed

74 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

her residence : still she did every justice to the
character of the Wallachian peasants, describing
them as honest, kind-hearted, and obliging. She
also informed us that provisions were extremely
cheap, — meat not more than a penny a pound,
poultry, bread, and excellent wine equally rea-
sonable ; so that it would appear from her ac-
count, that a man might here live like an alder-
man for about twenty pounds a year.

After bidding farewell to our kind host and
hostess, we passed over to the Servian side, and
took in two Turks as pilots. It was rather a
novel spectacle to an Englishman to see these
turbaned fellows at the helm of a steam-packet,
and to hear our Italian captain giving the words
of command, '' Ease her,"—*' Stop her,"—** G(S
on/' in broken English. Indeed, in whatever
part of the world I have travelled in a steam-boat,
or by whomsoever commanded, whether Turk,
Greek, Italian, German, or Russian, still I heard
a repetition of these words, though sometimes
delivered with such an accent as rendered them
almost unintelligible. Thus they will probably
become naturalised in the language of every
nation in the world adopting steam navigation.

75

LETTER VIII.

DESOLATION AND FERTILITY — REMAINS OF THE BRIDGE

BUILT BY TRAJAN ENTER BULGARIA GOTHIC CASTLE AT

FLORENTIN — WIDDIN FORTIFICATIONS — NIROPOLIS

RUT8CRUCK GIUROBWO WRETCHED APPEARANCE OF

THE TOWN AND INHABITANTS FOREST OF THISTLES —

CURIOSITY OF THE WALLACHIANS 8IL1STRIA — FORTIFI-
CATIONS TURKS AND RUSSIANS — MARSHES — MUSQUITOES

— ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS.

The scenery^ though no longer sublime, was still
lovely, particularly on the Servian side. The
luxuriantpastures, sprinkled withflocks and herds,
shelving dov^n to the water's edge, were perhaps
succeeded by a dense forest ; which, in turn, gave
way to parks formed by the hand of nature, that
might serve as models to the landscape gardener.
Notwithstanding this apparent fertility of the soil,
the country appeared as thinly populated as if it
had been subject for ages to the ravages of war ;
and the few villages, without garden or any rural
embellishment, were the very personification of
misery. I visited several, on each side of the

76 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

river, and found the interior of the huts to cor-
respond in wretchedness with the exterior. Still,
in glaring contrast to all this evidence of poverty,
the women were generally well dressed ; wearing
on the head a sort of tiara, ornamented with
small gold Turkish coins, besides costly neck-
laces, bracelets, and earrings. Many of them
were pretty, and their small delicate features
indicated their Grecian origin.

The next remarkable object we came to, was
the ruins of the bridge built by command of the
Emperor Trajan, after his conquest over the
Dacian king, Decebalus. The remains of the
arches are visible at low water, and the towers
on each side of the river still maintain their posi-
tion, in defiance of the storms of ages. The his-
torian Dio Cassius tells us it was entirely built
ofcutstoneby the architect, ApoUodorus Damas-
cenes ; that it was a hundred and fifty feet high,
sixty feet broad, and nine hundred feet long.
This stupendous work was subsequently de-
stroyed by Adrian, for the purpose of checking
the progress of the barbarians. Near the Ser-
vian village Werbitza, we passed a number of
fishing-boats ; the men were engaged in hauling
up a tremendous sturgeon, which it appears are
very plentiful in this part of the river. Here the
Danube made one of its most extensive curves.

WIDDIN. 77

bringing us back again nearly opposite the Turk-
ish fortress at Neu-Orsova, whose Pacha we
visited the preceding day.

The river Timak, which flows into the Danube
at the village of Gruja, forms the boundary
between the provinces of Servia and Bulgaria ;
and in a short time the eye of the traveller is
gladdened by the sight of the pretty village
Florentin, situated close to the river, and over-
hung by the picturesque ruin of a gothic castle
seated upon a high rock, forming altogether a
veiy lovely landscape. Soon after we arrived at
the fortress and populous town of Widdin, the
residence of a Pacha, and said to contain twenty
thousand inhabitants; numbersofwhom were now
assembled on the heights to see us, appearing
not a little to enjoy the novel spectacle, while
it was equally amusing to us to behold the crowds
in their long flowing robes, cheering the aquatic
wonder. The fortifications at Widdin appeared to
be on a splendid scale and in good order, show-
ing a formidable front along the. banks of the
river, flanked and protected at intervals by bas-
tions : those on the land side were equally well
executed, the whole mounting nearly three hun-
dred guns. Several Turkish vessels, of about
two hundred tons burden, were here lying at
anchor, and others loading and reloading their
cargoes ; exhibiting an appearance of activity un-

78 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

usual to the Danube, from which we may iufer
that no inconsiderable commerce is carried on by
the inhabitants.

I now caught a glimpse, for the first time, of
the Balkan mountains, and the stupendous ro<;k
Kaszan, well known to the traveller who journeys
on the banks of the Danube. The country did
not offer any remarkable feature, till we came to
the fortress and town of Nikopolis, originally
built by the Romans. The situation is pictu-
resque, lying partly on the brow of a range of
chalky cliffs, and partly covering the bed of a
narrow valley ; and a little lower down the river
stands the Bulgarian town of Sestos. Here we
cast anchor for the night, but were not allowed
to land by the sanatory officer on board, unless
we chose to go through the tedious ceremony of
the lazaretto. Sestos is said to contain upwards
of twenty thousand inhabitants, and to carry on
a considerable trade with Constantinople. It is
memorable for the peace concluded here between
Austria and the Ottoman Porte in 1791.

Bulgaria still continued hilly, and the river
had expanded to at least a league in breadth by
the time we came to Rutschuck. This is also a
fortified town, and, like Widdin, one of the most
important and well-defended military stations be-
longing to the Turks on the Danube, and said to
contain thirty thousand inhabitants. It certainly

* -

GIURGEWO. 79

bore all the appearance of a populous town, for
myriads were assembled to greet us as we passed.

We stopped at Giurgewo, in Wallachia, to take
in coals and provisions, which induced me to
accompany the steward to the town, situated on
an arm of the Danube, some distance from the
main stream. Our route lay through a vast
unenclosed steppe, with here and there an en-
campment of the half-naked, wild-looking natives,
surrounded by flocks of sheep, mules, asses, buf-
faloes, &c. Were a native of Caledonia rambling
over this long-neglected but fertile country, he
might indeed contemplate with rapture his na-
tional emblem, which here proudly rears its lofty
head to a height of at least seven feet. Its
myriads of blossoms formed a forest in bloom,
and not only charmed the eye by their bright
colours, but filled the air with the balmy fra-
grance they emitted.

Griurgewo did not repay the trouble of strug-
gling through so many difficulties; for, in addition
to that of threading our way through a prickly
forest, we were obliged to ford a river that rose
nearly breast high. I found the town, like every
other I had hitherto seen in the Turkish empire,
composed of dirty narrow streets, and houses
built of mud, with here and there one a little
more pretending in its appearance, ornamented

80 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

by a wooden verandah. I was therefore obliged
to console myself for my disappointment by «n
excellent cup of coffee and a tchibouque in one of
the numerous coffee-houses, the only dwellings
that really bore the semblance of comfort in the
whole town.

The inhabitants appeared to have no better
occupation than to loll the whole day on their
little carpets, and smoke the tchibouque. Even
the storks seemed to have caught the same do-
nothing apathy, for they were reposing quietly
with their young ones in nests on the tops of the
houses. A few of the women, however, as is
usually the case in half-civilised countries, were
somewhat more industriously disposed ; for they
were to be seen pursuing the twofold employ-
ment of spinning from the distaff, and inhaling
the fragrance of the narcotic herb from pipes
quite as long as those of their lords. But of the
whole population of Giurgewo, the canine alone
exhibited the most untiring activity, as they dili-
gently prowled the streets in search of food.

On returning to our vessel, I found the banks
of the river covered with a motley collection of
Wallachians of all ranks and ages, together with
the most primitive-looking vehicles you can ima-
gine. Numbers of the wondering multitude, not
contented with viewing the steam-boat from the
shore, crowded its decks ; upon which the captain.

8ILISTR1A.. 8 1

who was fond of a joke, made signals to his men
to draw up the gangway, and set the vessel in mo-
tion. The scene that then ensued was highly ludi-
crous; the women screamed, the men stormed, and
all were as much frightened as if they were being
deprived for ever of their liberty ; and not a few
even went the length of thinking that the steamer
had become unmanageable, and was actually run-
ning away with them to Heaven knows where !

After passing on one side the navigable river
Dombrovieza, upon which Bucharest, the capital
of Wallachia, is situated, and Turtukai on the
other, a very considerable commercial town in
Bulgaria, we cast anchor before Silistria, a for-
tified town, distinguished during the late war
between the Russians and Turks. It is now in a
most ruinous state, but, being ornamented with
the swelling mosque and graceful minaret, forms
a pleasing feature in the landscape.

The fortifications, still manned by Russian*
soldiers, consist of long weak curtains, with a
few miserable bastions, badly planned and worse
built, forming altogether a most inefficient de-
fence against the well-directed attack of an
enemy. Indeed the more minutely we examine
the fortifications of Silistria, the more we must

^ Since this voyage was made, the Russian troops have
evacuated the fortress.

VOL. I. G

82 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

appreciate the bravery of the twelve thousand
gallant Turks that held this place for nine months
against an overwhelming force of fifty thousand
Russians, furnished with every material neces-
sary for carrying on a most murderous siege.

The steam-engine requiring some slight repair,
we again cast anchor about half-way between
Silistria and Hirsova. Here the Danube becomes
so broad, that while coasting on the Bulgarian
side, Wallachia opposite was scarcely visible.

The banks now became exceedingly marshy,
and I would beg permission to counsel the tra-
veller, who values either skin, sleep, or comfort,
not to journey down this part of the Danube
without a musquito net, as he is certain of being
assailed by myriads of musquitoes and sand-flies,
to say nothing of the hornets; by these I was
attacked, sometimes alternately, sometimes in con-
junction. But it is during the night that the
musquitoes are most troublesome ; then we found
them so numerous as frequently to extinguish the
lights in the cabin : no contrivance on our part
could prevent their attack, so insatiate is their
thirst for blood. Tormented by them, and the
hot pestilential air of the cabin, I sought the
deck, where I was obliged to pass the night
whistling to the winds, and watching the stars,
sleep being completely out of the question. This

HIRSOVA. 83

most redundant insect population are, no doubt,
engendered by the marshes which everywhere
abound in this part of the Danube ; and that
nothing may be wanting to complete the plagues
of poor humanity, it is said that the intermittent
fever, another offspring of the swamps, is very
likely to be the fate of him who exposes himself
to the night air by sleeping on deck.

The next morning we continued our route ; and
such was the rapidity of the stream, that even
without the assistance of the engine we were
hurried forward with astonishing velocity till we
came to Hirsova, which I visited while the engine
was repairing. I found it to be miserable in the
extreme, every house being built of mud, with
the exception of the mosque, a very tolerable
edifice. Hirsova was, however, a very consider-
able town before its destruction by the Russians,
who, the Turks told us, did not leave a single
house standing. It is prettily situated on a series
of undulating eminences, which rise in projecting
rocks clbse to the river, appearing in every re-
spect admirably adapted for a fortified town.

I ascended the projecting rock on which the
citadel formerly stood, and although now a heap
of stones, still it had the honour of resisting the
siege of the Russians for two months. I enjoyed
from its summit a very extensive prospect over

G 2

84 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

the vast plains of Wallachia and a great part
of Bulgaria, to the far distant chain of Mount
Haemus. But how melancholy was the scene be-
fore me ! Throughout the whole of that immense
district, notwithstanding it has the advantages of
a fine climate and fertile soil adapted to every
production, there was not a single object to de-
light the eye and gladden the heart. Here were
no smiling towns and villages with their rural
population, the pride of every country ; and had
it not been for a few scattered huts, with here
and there a flock of sheep and a herd of bufialoes,
it might be called a desert.

The whole of the inhabitants of these beautiful
but benighted provinces, with the exception of a
few towns on the Danube, are principally Chris-
tians of the Greek church, and justly extolled by
travellers for their industrious peaceable habits,
particularly the Bulgarians, who are a pastoral
people. Yet, so oppressive has been the long rule
of the Ottoman government, and so protracted the
devastating wars, that the people have gradually
relapsed into semi-barbarism, and the country has
become so depopulated, that the pelican of the wil-
derness everywhere finds an undisturbed habita-
tion, and the eagles are so numerous as to have been
our companions during the whole of our voyage
down the Danube, from Pest to the Black Sea.

GDARD-HOUSB AND WATCH-TOWER.

LETTER IX.

CALATZ — HI3KBABLB ASPECT OF THE TOWN— tNCREABlNG
COMMERCE INHABITANTS DEPABTUEB FOR CONSTANTI-
NOPLE — PASSBNGERS OEEMAN STUDENTS — HUNGARIAN

NOBLEMAN BESSABABtA — DELTA OF THE DANOBB—

COSSACK GUABD-HOUSES— INSALUBRITY OF THEIR SITUA-
TION — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The bills, whose ever-varying beauty had de-
lighted ua from the time we left Belgrade, now
melted into a monotonous plain; and we passed
onward through an expanse of water, resembling
a sea studded with innumerable islets. In the
far distance we again caught a glimpse of Mount
Haemiis, which became more distinctly developed
as we approached Draila, a commercial town of

86 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

some importance in Wallachia. Here I was not
more surprised than pleased to see several Eng-
lish vessels in its little port, and our flag waving
from a height in the town.

Shortly after leaving Braila^ we passed the
river Szereth, which divides Moldavia from Wal-
lachia; and in about an hour cast anchor at
Galatz, the most commercial town in Moldavia,
containing, it is said, twenty thousand inhabitants;
but advancing no higher claims to architectural
beauty than those I have already described.

The citizens have, however, made one step
towards improvement, by paving one or two of
the principal streets with boards, like some of the
alpine villages in the Tyrol. Still, there is nei-
ther inn nor house of public entertainment in the
whole town, except a coffee-house. As to beds,
they are considered most unnecessary articles of
furniture, a divan covered with leather, or a
straw mattress laid on the floor, being the only
substitute : nor were the inhabitants more at-
tentive to their personal appearance than their
comforts^ soap and water being evidently as great
strangers to their persons, as combs to their
matted locks ; and the sheep-skin jacket was
the universal habiliment of the peasant.

Notwithstanding these repulsive features, still
some signs of improvement were visible ; there

GALATZ. 87

was an air of animation in the port, and a few
pretty villas were being built on the heights :
Galatz in these respects differing widely from
those sluggish towns we had hitherto visited.
This was further evidenced by the appearance of
several vessels lying in the river, including two
Austrian steam-boats, the Argo and thei Ferdi-
nando Primo: the latter, a very fine vessel, jour-
neys between this port and Constantinople. Here
I had again the pleasure of seeing several English
vessels, and here we have also a vice-consul ; but,
strange to say, he was a foreigner, and spoke no
language but his native Italian; much to the
annoyance of the English merchants and traders.
The articles principally exported from Galatz are
timber, wool, tallow, hides, wax, honey, flax,
hemp, com, including nearly all the raw mate*
rials usually found in such a latitude ; and as
these provinces are completely destitute of
manufactures, the trade is most profitable to the
merchant, and daily increasing.

In wandering through the town, I was more
pleased with the aspect of the inhabitants than of
their dwellings, as they formed a variety of groups
at once picturesque and interesting. In one place,
under the verandah of a coffee-house, sat a crowd
of Turks, languidly smoking the tchibouque : in
another were to be seen, sauntering along the

88 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

beach, a long range of most primitive- looking
carriages, driven by Jews, Turks, Greeks, or
Moldavians, in their respective costumes, and
attended by bare-legged footmen. Here the
awkward military were attempting to perform
their European evolutions ; and a stranger, on
observing them, might deem they were afraid of
gunpowder, as they never fired a salute without
first making the sign of the cross on their fore-
heads. There Jews, in their long vestments and
high fur caps, were selling their flimsy wares, at
a profit of cent, per cent., to the crew of an
English vessel just released from quarantine ;
and, to complete the picture, hundredsof men and
boys were breasting the silvery current of the
river, unencumbered with the superfluity of bath-
ing-dresses, beneath the eyes of numbers of fair
ladies, who nevertheless seemed to regard the
matter with the most perfect nonchalance.

After remaining two days at Galatz, 1 embark-
ed in the Ferdinando steam-packet. Captain Ever-
son, for Constantinople. Here I found, much to
my gratification, two of my countrymen among
the passengers, — Captain Johnson, of the East
India Company's service, and Mr. Newton : in the
latter I had the pleasure of recognising an old
travelling acquaintance. We had also a Hunga-
rian nobleman, and a considerable sprinkling of

GERMAN STUDENTS. 89

Uerman students; these were deck-passengers ^
for which they only paid a few florins ; and if they
had been bound for the Indies, they could not have
laid in a more ample stock of provisions : true it
is, they were about to embark on the Black Sea,
which, to a German who had never even beheld
salt water, appeared an enterprise of no common
importance. In genuine patriarchal style they
feasted upon the common store, while their con-
tinued vocal efibrts gave to our vessel the semblance
of a beer-shop : several were fashionably dressed,
with tremendous spurs dangling at their heels; and
thus, whip in hand, each strutted up and down the
deck with as much consequence as a seignior of a
thousand acres. In short, they were a most noisy,
ill-behaved set of young men, between whom and
the captain there was open war from the moment
they entered the vessel ; for, much to the annoy-
ance of the cabin-passengers, they struggled to
obtain exclusive possession of the deck, maintain-
ing, to the very letter, that it was their right as
deck-passengers. At one time the contest as-
sumed an air of gravity, until the captain, an in-
teHigent, active seaman, threatened to lower the
boat and put them ashore : this, together, with a
few friendly remonstrances addressed to them on
my part, at length convinced them of their folly ;
for, being the only Englishman on board that

90 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

spoke German, I was obliged to perform the dis-
agreeable office of dragoman.

Among our cabin-passengers, the brave Magyar
was the most original in his manners. He was in
the prime of life, full of fire and animation, with
not a little of the assured confidence of a man ac-
customed to command ; he was a complete horror
to our refined countrymen, whose every word and
gesture was studied, and whose conversation was
carried on in a sotto voce tone, certainly not in-
tended to communicate with those whose auricular
organs were in the slightest degree disordered.
In direct opposition to this, every sentence uttered
by our Hungarian friend was in a voice so pitched
in altOj as to resemble that of a seaman in a storm.
In addition to this sin against good manners, he
used his fork for a tooth-pick, and expectorated
much too freely on the floor, and never thought
it necessary to listen to any other conversation
than his own ; which flowed on in one continued
stream, most unfortunately for his hearers, for he
was a man of limited information, though he con-
ceived himself to be a living encyclopedia, and
competent to discuss every subject. This partly
resulted from his high station in his own country,
where he was a ** doctor qj Jaws and philosophy,"
and also a seignior of two or three most unpro-
nounceable lordships : still, notwithstanding these

ISMAEL. 91

foibles, he was a truly estimable man, honest in
his principles, and an excellent travelling com-
panion.

On arriving at the Pruth, which forms the boun-
dary between Bessarabia and Moldavia, we per-
ceive the town of Reni, or Timorava. Here the
possessions of Russia commence; and a little
lower down, at Kartal, opposite the Bulgarian for-
tress Isakscha, is the fatal spot where the armies
of that power were accustomed to throw over a
bridge of boats, when about to invade the Turkish
territory : a situation well adapted to that pur-
pose, owing to the number of islands and the
contracted bed of the river. On passing the great
lake Jalburg, Ismael becomes visible. This town,
called by the Turks Smir, is also famous in the
history of the wars between Russia and Turkey.
Suwarrow took it in 1789 by storm, and, not
contented with delivering up the ill-fated city to
be plundered by an infuriated soldiery, reduced
nearly the whole of the town to ashes, and mas-
sacred, according to the Turkish accounts, twenty
thousand of the inhabitants. Thus, from being
one of the most beautiful and commercial towns in
the Ottoman empire, adorned with palaces and
mosques, and a population of thirty thousand,
Ismael has now become of so little importance as
scarcely to deserve mention.

92 VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE.

A short distance from Ismael commences what
is termed the Delta of the Danube, a perfect sea
thickly studded with islands, extending for leagues
in every direction. These islands are for the most
part swampy, with little or no vegetation save bul-
rushes: as to cultivation, there is none, being lite-
rally a desolation of desolation. Here, also, the
river divides itself into the various arms which dis-
charge this vast body of water into the Black Sea.
The number of these varies according to different
accounts ; some give them at seven, while others
limit them to five. For myself, I should be inclined
to confine them to four ; as that arm of the river
which runs into the Ramsin lake, although it emp-
ties its waters into the sea in three different places,
can in reality only be considered as one. Plinius
estimated them at six, which agrees with the
Turkish calculation, from whom they have also
received their present appellation.

We took the channel called Suline Bogasi,
which is that generally used by mariners, and con-
sidered to be the principal stream ; and, accord-
ing to the late Russian treaty with the Ottoman
Porte, it was agreed that the centre of this arm of
the Danube should fonn for the future the
boundai^ line between the two empires^ each reserv-
ing to itself the right of navigation.

Our voyage from Galatz to the Black Sea was

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 93

anything but agreeable : the banks were every-
where marshy, especially below the Pruth ; and
as a consequence, themusquitoes and hornet-flies
were multiplied tenfold. Still, however favour-
able the swamps might have been to the increase
of our tiny tormentors, they were most deleteri-
ous to the health of man : this was sadly evidenced
in the bloated countenances of the wretched Cos-
sacks, doomed to guard the Russian frontier in
this part of the empire. But as we rushed for-
ward by the aid of steam, and a current computed
to run at a rate of twenty thousand feet in an
hour, we experienced no other inconvenience
from the climate than a little annoyance from
our insect enemies.

Notwithstanding these petty dSsagrSmenSy still,
taken altogether, I have seldom performed a tour
which afforded me more real pleasure, nor one
thatoffered scenes of such varied interest, whether
we regard the beauty of the scenery, the striking
diversity of features exhibited by the different
provinces, together with the primitive state of the
inhabitants ; the whole passing in review as if in a
panorama. Nor must I forget to mention, that
the whole expense attending the voyage amounted
to no more than about eleven pounds. This sum,
be it remembered, does not include the expenses
of the table, which must always be regulated

94 ARRIVAL AT THE BLACK SEA.

according to the inclinations of the traveller.
With respect to the time occupied, were it not
for the vexatious detentions of the passengers
by the Austrian authorities in signing passports,
together with the ill-planned arrangements of the
directors, the tourist might leave Vienna and
arrive at Constantinople with the greatest ease in
eight days, casting anchor each night about sun-
set. However, as things are at present consti-
tuted, he may consider, himself well off, if he is
able to accomplish the voyage in twelve days. But
even this rate of travelling is considered by the
natives of these provinces equal to the speed of an
air-balloon ; so different is the value of time where
the absence of commercial and manufacturing
employments leaves the mass of the population to
the enjoyment of more idleness than wealth. So
now farewell to the Danube : my next letter will,
I trust, inform you of my arrival in the capital of
the Ottoman empire.

Adieu.

ENTRANCE INTO THE BLACK SEA. 95

LETTER X.

ENTRANCE INTO THE BLACK SEA — OBSERVATIONS RESPECT-
ING IT STORM — GERMAN TERROR — LANDING AT VARNA

— FORTIFICATIONS — THRACIAN BOSPHORUS COMPARISON

BETWEEN THE BAY OF NAPLES AND STAMBOUL.

The distant prospect of the Black Sea was re-
garded by all on board with unmingled satisfac-
tion, if for nothing else than the hope it engen-
dered that we should be delivered from our insect
enemies. We were hailed at the mouth of the
Danube by a Russian officer of the quarantine,
who proved to be an Englishman, the son of a
Mr. Carruthers, formerly a merchant at Odessa.
Here it was that the Russians intended to impose
a toll upon all foreign vessels navigating between
the Black Sea and the Danube : an intention ,
however^ which a little well-timed remonstrance
by English firmness, and a little prudent reflec-
tion on their own part, induced them to aban*
don, at least for the present ; but as they are
diligently employed in erecting a quarantine esta-
blishment, which will be followed in all probabi-

96 ORIGIN OF ITS NAME.

lity by a town, futurity will tell whether or not
their moderation will be persisted in.

Our papers having been found perfectly cor-
rect, we were allowed to pass the Russian guard-
house, and to our great satisfaction entered the
Euxine. This vast expanse of water, now be-
come of the most vital importance to the whole
commercial and political world, is about two
hundred and three leagues in length; and its
greatest breadth, on the meridian of 31^ east,
a hundred and ten leagues. The Turks call
it Kara-denghis, and the Russians Tscherno-
more (Black Sea). This appellation is pre-
sumed to have been given in consequence of the
frequent occurrence of thick black fogs, caused
by the surrounding mountains intercepting the
vapours when they arise from its surface.

Owing to the prodigious quantity of fresh
water poured into the Euxine from its numerous
tributaries, the water is rather brackish than salt ;
hence it freezes with a moderate degree of cold,
and in severe winters the whole of the northern
coast, more especially that near Odessa, pre-
sents one vast field of ice.

The navigation of this sea is also attended
with some inconvenience to small vessels, on
account of its being continually fed by some of
the noblest rivers in Europe, which produce

STORM AT SEA. 97

violent currents, particularly during the early
months of summer, when they are increased in
volume by the melting of the snow. That
caused by the Danube was now most observable,
our vessel being hurried forward with extreme
velocity; while the noble stream, which had so
long borne us continued to preserve its yellow
turbid character for an immense distance, as
it rolled through the clear, dark-blue waters of
the sea. When a strong wind directs its force
against these currents, a short ^' chopping sea "
ensues, still more dangerous to the safety of
small or ill-built vessels.

It must also be observed, that when a vessel
during a strong gale is unable to lie-to, or obliged
to run before the wind, or^ through the ignorance
of her commander, finds it impossible to make a
port, she runs some danger of being wrecked ;
for, though the sea itself presents no object to
jeopardise her safety, there being neither rocks,
shoals, nor islands, (with the exception of Serpents'
Island near Odessa,) yet the high rocky shore
offers an aspect full of peril, particularly on the
coast of the Crimea and Circassia. These lofty
crags also form another source of danger to the
mariner, by attracting thunder-storms, which oc-
casionally rage here with great violence : and des-
tiny decided that one of the wildest fury should

VOL .1. H

98 TERROR OF THE PASSENGERS.

DOW threaten our bark with destruction ; for though
the Ferdinando was a fine vessel, of a hundred-
horse power, and commanded by an Englishman,
an experienced navigator, still she found it diffi-
cult to come off victorious in her struggle against
the elements without sustaining some loss.

The sea heaved fearfully, the watery mountains
rolled over each other in rapid succession, the fiery
lightning darted through the dark, wild clouds,
accompanied by tremendous peals of thunder, and
the howling wind drove our vessel like a feather
through the surge ; it was, in truth, a glorious
spectacle, and made a deep impression upon our
Hungarian traveller and the German students,
who now admired, for the first time, the grandeur
of a sea-storm.

Their admiration was, however, quickly con-
verted into fear, when they beheld the steam-boat
pitching first on one side and then on the other.
But how is it possible to paint their horror and
consternation when she first shipped water ? Pale
with apprehension, for one and all expected that
we were immediately going to the bottom, they
first invoked all the saints in the calendar to pro-
tect them, and next execrated their own folly
for committing themselves to the fickle element.
Drenched to the skin, and with countenances of
an ashy paleness, they were to be seen, in one

VARNA. 99

part of the deck, locked in each other's arms; and
in another, clinging with all their strength to a
rope. While the brave Magyar, the dauntless hero
of a dozen battles, and who never before knew
what fear was^ trembled like a leaf, and assuredly
at no time embraced a fair maiden more lovingly
than he now did the mast ; and nothing could per-
suade him, every time the vessel creaked, but that
she was splitting to pieces. All attempts of the
captain to clear the deck of these, to liim^ useless
lumber were unavailing; till at length the heaving
billows performed upon the whole party the work
of ipecacuanha, and they retreated to the cabin,
having then become careless whether they were
shipwrecked or not.

The wind having abated, we soon reached
Varna, where we remained about half an hour.
This is now a miserable town, everywhere bear-
ing marks, in its half-ruined citadel and dilapi-
dated fortifications, of the severe and protracted
siege it sustained by the Russians. Being built
at the confluence of several small rivers, or rather
extensive marshes, it is not considered healthy ;
but owing to its situation, if properly fortified
and well defended, Varna might prove a strong
bulwark against an invading army.

There are several works in progress, consist-
ing of the usual long line of unprotected curtains,

H 2

100 THE BOSPHORUS.

with a few bastionR that we see in most of the
Turkish fortifications, without any outwork or co-
vered way of any description, except a narrow
ditch, leaving half the escarp wall exposed on
every side. You are, perhaps, not aware that this
fortress, notwithstanding the bombastic accounts
we heard of its capture by the Russians, was sold
by that execrable monster Usef Pacha, who after-
wards took refuge in Russia ; and although he was
condemned to death as a traitor on the clearest
evidence, yet the poor Sultan, at the command of
the Emperor Nicholas, was not only compelled to
pardon, but invest him with the government of
Belgrade! Thus much for the independence of
our most faithful and ancient ally.

On leaving Varna, the coast of the Black Sea
became highly interesting. The great ridge of
the Balkan mountains was already distinctly de-
veloped on the distant horizon ; and the shelving
hills, diversified by woods, valleys, bays, and
promontories, formed a variety of beautiful land-
scapes ; to which the primitive looking Turkish
sailing-boats, with the gaudy turbans of the sailors,
as they skimmed over the tranquil sea, contributed
no small degree of novelty and picturesque effect.

In hazy weather, vessels generally sail near the
Bulgarian coast, having for landmarks Cape Ka-
liakri, and on the eastern side the lofty mountains

THE BOSPHORUS. 101

called the Deux Mamelles ; valuable to the mari-
ner, for it i-arely happens that any fog is suffici-
ently dense to obscure them, and in clear weather
they are distinctly seen at a distance of thirty
English miles.

About an hour before daylight, the lighthouses
at the entrance of the Bosphorus were visible ;
but both burned so dimly, that, although we could
not have been more than five or six miles distant,
it was scarcely possible to distinguish the lamps.
That upon the European side, Roumelie Phener,
standing upon the ancient Promontorium Panium,
is defended by a castle, beneath which is a group
of rocks with the remains of an altar, said to have
been built by the Romans, and dedicated to Augus-
tus. The Asiatic, or Anadolian lighthouse, called
Phenes Bachtchesi, is also defended by a fort :
this mean building was even worse lighted than
its companion in Europe.

As the day dawned, the lovely scenery upon
the banks of this justly-celebrated channel burst
upon our view. The sun beamed forth with a
splendour only known in such a highly-favoured
latitude, illuminating with a stream of rosy light
a succession of the most lovely pictures that can
be imagined. However, it is not my intention,
in this travelling age, to sing the charms of
the Bosphorus — charms that have already been

102 FIRST VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

chanted by the poets of every land and every
tongue. Let it suffice, that the artist who would
paint all that is picturesque in the loveliest forms
of art and nature, has only to study its fairy
scenery and smiling shores, studded with oriental
palaces, graceful chiosks, and swelling domes,
mingling their varied outlines with the rich foliage
of a thousand trees. All this you will readily
imagine; consequently it cannot be necessary
for me to fatigue your attention with a length-
ened description.

Most travellers, on arriving here, establish com-
parisons, according to individual taste, between
the beautiful situation of Stamboul and its rivals
in loveliness, — the delightful bay of Naples, and
the proud amphitheatre of Genoa. My fellow-
travellers, Captain Johnson and Mr. Newton, had,
like myself, extended their rambles far and wide,
and the latter resided for many years in Naples.
A warfare of words, therefore, arose among us
with respect to the comparative beauties of the
bright gem of Italy, and the equally brilliant jewel
of the Bosphorus. In common with most travel-
lers, my companions, on the first coup-d'oeil,
awarded the preference to the crescent-crowned
city of the Osmanlis ; which is not surprising,
for it is impossible to behold that glorious waving
mountain-outline, that amphitheatre of splendid

FIRST VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 103

oriental edifices, rendered even more picturesque
by the defects in their architecture, without admi*
ration. Nor is this all ; for the splendour of the
panorama was at that moment heightened by the
aspect of the mirrored city in the clear blue waters
of the Golden Horn, and the myriads of graceful
cdihs darting in every direction with the swift-
ness of arrows over its crystal bosom.

Notwithstanding, however, all these fascinating
objects, my suffrage was unhesitatingly given in
favour of my old friend the bay of Naples ; per-
haps, after all, owing to its being connected with
many delightful associations of early life. Still,
the effect of Stamboul depends in a great measure
upon art, on the novel and graceful architecture
of its mosques, minarets, and gay-coloured chiosks,
mingling, in all their various and picturesque
forms, with the dark outline of groves of cypresses
and plane trees. Annihilate these, and half the
charms of the picture would be destroyed : while
the beauty of the bay of Naples, with its sublime
combinations of scenery, hill, mountain, vale, and
sea, would remain uninjured, were its proud city^
suburban villas, and mountain monasteries laid
in ruins. Besides, in whatever direction you
journey in the neighbourhood of Naples, whether
through its champaign country or mountain dis-
tricts, skirting along the shores of its bay, or

104 FIRST VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

watching the curling vapours of Vesuvius, it is
impossible not to confess the witchery of the scene.
Whereas, when contemplating Stamboul, we are
obliged to recognise, as the sublimest features,
the gently-elevated hills of Europe and Asia on
the Bosphorus ; the distant mountains of Thrace
being neither sufficiently lofty nor picturesque :
and, be it remembered, in order to obtain a view
of the classical Olympus, you are obliged to
leave Stamboul and the magical shores of the
Golden Horn.

However, we may as well conclude a truce
with criticism on the relative beauties of the two
capitals ; for though a traveller may be influenced
by taste or prejudice in favour of one or the
other, it is impossible to bring them fairly into
comparison, — the oriental pomp and general
novelty of the eastern metropolis amply counter-
balancing whatever advantages its Italian rival
may possess in the magnificent bay and scenery
by which it is surrounded. But whatever may
be our bias with regard to the City of the Sultan,
the present aspects of the political horizon invest
it with peculiar interest ; as it will, in all proba-
bility, be the arena on which the struggle for
European supremacy will be contested.

r

.^

GIAOUKB SMOKING THE TCHIBOUQUE WITH THE PACHA OF
THK DARDANRLLES. /

v/
LETTER XL

OEPARTUBB FOB THE DARDANELLBa — INCRBASB OP PAS-
8EKGEBS — A PACHA — HIS HABEM AND 8UITB — VISIT TO
THE PACHA OP THE DABDANBLLES — HOULLAH— ORIEN-
TAL ENTERTAIN KENT — HALL OP AUDIBNCB — THE AD-
VANTAGES OP- A TB9RBRB.

This time I was obliged to content myself with
merely a glance at the fair city of Constantine,
in consequence of our steam-boat having been
engaged to convey the Pacha of the Dardanelles,
his harem and suite, to his new residence, the
castle at Chanak-kalesi, on the Dardanelles. Our
Oamanli grandee, whose movements were at once

106 VISIT TO THE PACHA

active and bustling — characteristics that rarely
distinguish a Mussulman of the present day,
proved to be a fine, bluff, healthy-looking man,
something in the style of an English squire who
had been accustomed from his youth to brush the
dew from the grass at break of day, while pur-
suing the pleasures of the chase. His manners
were dignified, as those of a Turk in authority
always are. Nevertheless, he was more commu-
nicative, and exhibited a much nearer approach
to good-humoured cordiality, than we usually
find in so great and grave a personage as one,
who is at the same time a M ir-miran and a Pacha
of two tails.

With the exception of the red cap and blue
tassel, which is now almost universally the head-
dress worn by Turks of every class, he was
attired, together with the officers of his suite,
completely in the European military costume.
These, together with the attendants and a harem,
consisting of ten ladies, formed a cortege of about
fifty persons. The women, as usual, were most
hermetically veiled, no part of the face being
visible except the eyes ; and that they might not
be exposed to the slightest observation, the sky-
l*ght of the cabin was kept continually covered ,
while guards with drawn swords were placed at
the door, and on the steps leading to it.

On arriving at the chateau of the Dardanelles,

OF THE DARDANELLES. 107

Boreas appeared to have had some especial spite
against the chief of these formidable straits, our
friend the Pacha ; for when it became necessary
that the fair prisoners should ascend to the deck,
preparatory to leaving the vessel, he blew such
a gust, that not only their veils, but tresses
floated in the breeze, in spite of the most
indefatigable efforts of the ennuchs to keep the
rebellious muslin in decent order. Hence I had
a most favourable opportunity of deciding that
the countenances of the greater number of the
ladies were not particularly handsome, — except
one, whom we understood to be the principal
wife of the Pacha. She was, indeed, a lovely
woman, about eighteen, with fine dark eyes, black
hair, and features cast in the finest mould ; but her
complexion being excessively pallid, they wore
an expression of great tristesse, most probably
the effect of the strict confinement to which the
women of the East are universally subject.

Upon leaving the packet, the Pacha invited
CaptainJohnson, Mr. Newton, and myself, to take
coffee and smoke a pipe with him at his chateau.
After threading our way through an awkward
squad of young tacticoes, we entered a vast
antechamber filled with the attendants, who were
drawn up in military array to receive us : these
were the keff-jis, tchibouquegis, and toutoon-jis

108 VISIT TO THE PACHA

of his excellency, a motley tribe, black, white,
and brown. We then passed into a spacious
saloon, where the great man was seated on a rich
divan, close to the window, enjoying the cool sea-
breeze. The spiritual monitor, the mouUah, sat
beside him, indolent and heavy-looking as a
camel ; and though I intend no disrespect to the
priesthood, I cannot help saying that he was one
of the most unprepossessing men I ever beheld,
his cadaverous countenance exhibiting a mingled
expression of malignity, ferocity, and fanaticism.
He was, in fact, a personification of envy, hatred,
malice, and all uncharitableness, seated in the
most inappropriate juxtaposition with the god of
good cheer ; for the Pacha was the beau-ideal, in
appearance, of good fellows.

On entering, we made our salutations d la
Turqvs^ which the inveteracy of European habits
rendered somewhat difficult : however, as we were
already in some degree familiar with these essen-
tial observances in oriental manners, we did not
perpetrate any remarkable gaucheries. The
Pacha, in return, broke through the line of de-
marcation between the Mussulman and the
Giaour ; for he arose, and made as near an ap-
proach to a smile as his sense of the dignity of a
Pacha would permit, and politely motioned us to
be seated.

OF THE DARDANELLES. 109

After a decorous lapse of time had intervened,
and exactly at the moment prescribed by etiquette^
our host, through the medium of the dragoman,
bade us welcome. Then came another interval of
silence, for, be it remembered, the high rank of
a Pacha will not permit him to chatter incessantly.
This pause continued till the darling tchibouque,
the beloved friend of the Turk, the substitute for
mirthful conversation in visits intended to be gay,
and the welcome filler-up of pauses in those in-
tended to be ceremonious, made their appearance.
These were presented in due ceremony by the
proper ofBcer, the tchibouque-ji, who crossed his
hands on his breast and knelt on one knee as
he introduced, with a neat little pair of silver
tongs, the atesh (fire) into the bowl : when the im-
portant ceremony of ignition was concluded, he
made another salutation and retired. The pipes
were really splendid, of the purest Turkish cherry
or jessamine, with superb amber mouth-pieces. In
short, their length and magnificence were befitting
the state of a Pacha.

The coffee followed, with was served on a
gold tray by four herculean slaves as black as
ebony, who knelt on presenting it ; and then re-
tired toacorner of the room, where they remained
like statues till we had finished. The fragrant
fluid, which was so excellent that a teaspoonful

110 VISIT TO THE PACHA

might be diluted into a quart in England, was
poured into cups of the finest porcelain, each
reposing in an external cup of pure gold, prettily
pierced and filigraned.

When we had taken coffee, conversation com-
menced. The Pacha expressed a hope, that the
differences which had just arisen between Eng-
land and the Porte, respecting the unfortunate
affair of Mr. Churchill, would be speedily and
amicably arranged ; and also, that the alliances
between the two governments might be cemented
more closely. To this, of course, we made suit-
able replies, and, after a few additional observa-
tions by our host, another hiatus ensued in the
conversation ; but at this time it was of such an
unreasonable length, that we made some slight
demonstrations of our intention to depart.

At this moment a second party of slaves en-
♦:ered, carrying a massive silver tray filled with
confectionery : these were followed by two others,
one bearing a silver- mounted bottle containing
perfumed water, and the other swinging by a
chain, in the same manner as the sacristans in
the Catholic churches, a silver filigree censer,
from whose apertures issued the most agreeable
aromatic vapours. One of our party, whose
olfactory nerves were not accustomed to this
stimulus, unfortunately broke out into a violent

OF THE DARDANELLES. Ill

fit of sneezing, which sadly disconcerted his gra-
vity, and absolutely curled the mouth of the Pacha
into something that might be construed as a
smile. Having, therefore, received all the ho-
nours prescribed by oriental politeness, we de-
parted, highly gratified with the urbanity of our
host, and his courteous reception.

I shall now give you a slight description of
what, perhaps, we may call the hall of audience,
and which may serve for every other to which I
may have occasion to introduce you, for they are
nearly all similar in their appointments. The
walls were painted a light green, and the floor
covered with a superior species of matting, here
called Egyptian.* As to furniture, there was
none, unless we extend that appellation to a
boarded seat, raised about fifteen inches from the
floor, and carried around three sides of the room ;
this, covered by fine woollen cloth, and supplied
with an abundance of cushions, bears the name
of divan, and forms no bad substitute for a sofa
to him who would take a siesta, or smoke a
tchibouque.

An Arabic inscription was painted in black
letters over the door, to preserve the inmates

* Most probably made in Circassia, as J subsequently met
with a similar description of matting in that country, from
whence it is exported in large quantities to Turkey.

112 VISIT TO THE PACHA.

from the evil eye ; and a few verses from the
Koran ornamented the walls. The whole taste
and ingenuity were expended on the ceiling,
which was curiously wrought in tessellated wood-
work ; and being evidently recently painted in
blue and gold, in the arabesque style, had a
very pretty effect.

I had almost forgotten to mention, that my kind
host, finding I was about to extend my travels
through the neighbouring provinces, furnished
me with a teskerSy which he said would every-
where insure me, not only a hospitable recep-
tion from the Osmanlis, but horses for travelling ;
and by presenting it to the aghas of every town
and village, it would^ oblige them to procure me
a night's quarter, provisions, &c. — a document
of no little value, when we remember that, with
the exception of the capital and a few of the
large commercial towns, there is not a single
hotel or inn, for the accommodation of the tra-
veller, to be found in the Turkish empire ; for
that uncomfortable substitute, yclept a khan,
ministers in no other way to the necessities of
the tourist, than to afford shelter from the in-
clemencies of the weather.

EXCURSION, &C. 113

LETTER XIL

CHANAK-KALBSI — JOURNEY TO TROT — TURKISH HORSES-^
HUNGARIAN TRAVELLING COMPANION — VISIT TO OUR
CONSUL, MR. LANDOR-— ASPECT OP THE COUNTRY— APATHY
OP THE TURKS— SERIOUS INDISPOSITION OP MY COMPA-
NION — KNAVISH SURIDJI — SCAMANDER^** BOURNARBASHI
HOUSE OP THE AGHA MOONLIGHT PHANTOMS — HOS-
PITABLE RECEPTION — HUNGARIAN REMEDY POR INTER-
MITTENT PEVER — COURTESY OP THE AGHA — SITE OP
TROY — PROSPECT PROM THE TOMB OP HECTOR.

In my last letter, I mentioned our arrival at the
castles of the Dardanelles. We landed at the
town, (called by the Turks Chanak-Kalesi, from
its potteries,) which clusters about the castle
on the right shore : this, like every other I had
seen in Turkey, was a filthy congregation of
narrow lanes and pestilential alleys. It is, how-
ever, a great resort for shipping, as vessels are
often detained in this port for several months
by contrary winds ; and I cannot but think that
a few towing steam-boats stationed here would
find constant employment, and prove a lucrative
speculation.

VOL. I. * I

114 EXCURSION FROM THE DARDANELLES

While our horses were preparing, we inspected
the curiosities of the town, a most meagre collec-
tion. The variety of costumes and features
exhibited by the Turks, Greeks, Armenians,
Franks, and Jews, amused us for a time ; but
that soon passed away, and we became tired of
observing a melange of people, who, however they
might differ in other respects, agreed in sitting
more than half the day upon carpets, smoking
the eternal tchibouque. We had not even the
pleasure of finding our own consul ; for in the
late conflagration, that laid more than half the
town in ashes, his dwelling was also included,
which obliged him to take up his temporary
residence at a village a few miles distant.

My two countrymen and the Hungarian, to
whom I before alluded, entertained, like myself,
the intention of visiting the site of Troy. But
when the wretched hacks of horses made their
appearance, the courage of the party sank to Zero,
— no doubt partly influenced by the feverish heat
at which the thermometer then stood ; and of
our little party, the brave Magyar alone consented
to bear me company. Indeed, the pommels of
the Turkish saddles, thejolting trot of the horses^
and the intermittent fever of Asia Minor, might
well deter any man who valued his comfort and
health, from undertaking the expedition : how-

TO THE SITE OF TROY. 115

ever, my curiosity and natural buoyancy of spi-
rit overcame every consideration. Behold me,
therefore, mounted on a saddle as broad as a
cradle, with two loops of ropes for stirrups ; and
these so short, that my knees nearly reach my
chin.

We were accompanied by a young Israelite,
who acted the part of a dragoman and suridji ;
and as the Magyar wore his half-military cos '
tume, with a brace of silver-mounted pistols in
his girdle and a sabre by his side, we presented
to the wondering eyes of the Osmanlis rather a
warlike appearance. This was probably the
reason, together with the humiliated feeling
produced among the people by the late raccesses
of the christian arms, that instead of being pelted
with stones, too often the fate of former travel-
lers, we were saluted with nothing worse than a
few grins and hisses from the women and children.

Our route for several hours lay along the sandy
coast of the Dardanelles^ and at every breeze
that blew, the mobile dust transferred itself into
mouths, eyes, and ears : add to which, the
scorching sun drank up all the moisture of our
frames. Vain was every attempt we made to
allay our thirst; but fortunately, when at its
height, we arrived at the residence of our consul,
Mr. Landor, who, with true English hospitality,

I 2

116 EXCURSION FROM THE DARDANELLES

welcomed us to an excellent dinner ; and those
only who have been placed in similar circum-
stances, can estimate the boon at its full value.
Our host, who had resided in this part of Turkey
several years, amused us with a variety of anec-
dotes of the people, to whom he appeared much
attached : he represented them as extremely well
conducted, crime very rarely occurring, notwith-
standing they are only a few degrees removed
from barbarism, and left almost entirely to their
own guidance. Their system of police is similar
to that I have before described as established by
Prince Milosch in Servia.

After leaving the friendly roof of my kind
countryman, we soon lost sight of the sea, and
journeyed onward through a most romantic coun-
try. In one place we wandered through a narrow
valley, bounded by gently swelling hills, clothed
to their summits with luxuriant grass or odorife-
rous shrubs ; then, again, cantered over a level
sward, a perfect carpet of green velvet enamelled
with a thousand flowers, whose balmy fragrance
in some degree rendered endurable the scorch-
ing rays of the sun. Numerous little fountains
babbled down the slopes, and then meandered
through tiny vales, on their way to swell a more
considerable stream : nature offering to the indo-
lent inhabitants the means of extensive irrigation.

TO THE SITE OF TROY. 117

) of which any people but the benighted Turks

would most gladly avail themselves.

In every direction was to be seen the finest
land, if properly cultivated sufficient for the sup-
port of a dense population ; and numerous pic-
turesque sites, on which a hundred towns and
villages might be erected. But, alas ! what did
we find ? Solitude and desolation. Every step
proclaimed the benumbing rule of the Osmanlis,
and the few wretched inhabitants we encountered
wore the stamp of poverty, degradation, and the
most abject slavery. In short, the whole of the
scattered huts we passed in our route from Cha-
nak-Kalesi on the Dardanelles to Troy would, if
collected together, scarcely form a moderately-
sized village, and the fertile soil itself appeared
as much accursed, as if the lovely heavens had
showered down pestilence.

With the exception of an hour spent with Mr.
Landor, we passed the greater part of the day on
horseback, and, either from fatigue or the great
heat, my companion was excessively languid, and
towards evening displayed every symptom of
severe indisposition : writhing with pain, and faint
vdth debility, he would gladly have lain down in
the fields in preference to continuing his route.
Hence, in consequence of the snail-like pace at

118 EXCURSION FROM THE DARDANELLES

which we moved forward, we did not arrive at the
Scamander till it was quite dark ; and, to add to
our annoyances, we found the river so swollen by
the late rains, that our suridji declared he would
not ford it, as he should certainly risk the loss of
his horses.

Now, as the glimmering lights of the little town
of Boumarbashi were distinctly visible on the
opposite side of the river, and evidently at no
greater distance than a quarter of a mile, the
intelligence, to an exhausted invalid and a hungry
man, was certainly anything but gratifying.
Feeling, however, assured that the object of our
knavish guide was to extort money, and being
equally con6dent that I could swim across a much
broader river, even if it was too deep to ford, I
resolved upon making the experiment. I there-*
fore sought a spot marked by the tracks of horses'
hoofs, which would indicate that the natives
were accustomed to use it ; for remember that
this country is entirely destitute of any road,
save those made by the Romans. I soon met
with the desired passage, when I dashed into the
stream, and found, thanks to the taste of the
Turks for short stirrups, that I should reach the
opposite shore perfectly dry. My companion
mustered courage enough to follow my example ;

TO THE SITE OF TROY. 119

but, alas ! by the time we reached Bournarbashi,
the stars were twinkling in the heavens, instead
of the lights in the windows.

We rode to the house of the agha, to which
we had been recommended by the consul, Mr.
Landor. However^ as these primitive people
had resigned themselves to repose soon aflter sun-
set, we found the whole of the inmates in the
land of dreams. Not contemplating the prospect
of sleeping on the stones with any degree of
satisfaction, we knocked loudly at the door ; when
we received as a response the chorus of half a
dozen dogs in the court-yard, and the united
howl of all the curs in the town. Such an uproar
could not fail to rouse the inmates from their
slumbers ; but instead of popping their night-
capped heads out of the windows, as would have
been the case in Europe, a party of iair dames
made their appearance, parading the house-top,
enveloped in long flowing garments muffled to
the eyes, looking precisely like so many ghosts.

The ladies immediately and peremptorily in-
formed us that we could not be admitted, as the
agha was absent. This I knew to be the common
pretence made use of to get rid of strangers in
Turkey ; and as the door had already given way
beneath our repeated thundering, we entered, well
knowing that the presence of a Giaour would soon

120 EXCURSION FROM THE DARDANELLES

conjure up at least the spectre of an agha^ how-
ever distant he might be in propria persond.
The plan succeeded ; for the lord of the mansion
and his attendants immediately made their appear-
ance, and a comfortable supper was soon served,
consisting of a fowl stewed with gourds, a pilaff,
fine olives, dried fruit, and excellent bread com-
posed of wheat and maize.

My first care was, however, devoted to my
travelling-companion, who had thrown himself on
the divan, absolutely writhing with suflfering.
Upon requesting to know what I should procure
for him, he begged me to infuse a large dose
of cayenne pepper in half a pint of strong wine
or brandy; when, strange to say, the fiery draught
acted like a charm, and restored him immedi-
ately, not only to health, but to a comparatively
good appetite. This strong stimulant, the baron
informed me^ had cured him more than once of an
intermittent fever, of which disease he felt con-
vinced he had just suffered an incipient attack.
When supper was ended, we availed ourselves
of the cushions and coverings with which the
divan was plentifully supplied, and soon forgot
all our troubles and inconveniences.

Whether in consequence of the recommenda-
tions of our consul, or through gratitude for the
douceurs we had presented to the attendants, I

TO THE SITE OF TROY. 121

cannot pretend to determine ; but certain it is, the
agha evinced towards us the most marked cour-
tesy, and not only provided an excellent break-
fast, but mounted his horse and accompanied us
the next morning on our exploring expedition.
This shows that either a decided improvement has
taken place in the feeling of this people towards
the Giaours, or that gold has a powerful effect in
softening bigotry. At all events, it is to be
hoped that future travellers, whose curiosity shall
lead them to visit these countries, may, through
the influence of one or the other, be allowed to
pursue their way without molestation, which un-
fortunately has not hitherto been the case. Our
agha guide pointed out the various eminences
and sites which tradition and the writings of the
ancients have connected with the history of Troy,
with which he seemed perfectly familiar, and,
for a Turk, well informed and communicative.

Before I left Troy, I rode to the extensive
ruins of the Alexandrian Troy, near Eski Stam-
boul ; visited the islands of Lesbos and Tenedos, —
lands celebrated in the annals of love and art, for
they were the countries of Sappho and Alcseus ;
bathed in the crystal stream of the Scamander,
where the royal sisters of the heroic Hector
washed their garments; and traced the classic
Simois to its source in the mountains, from

122 EXCURSION FROM THE DARDANELLES

whence I ascended Mount Ida, the abode of the
gods. In short, there was not a single locality
of interest, associated with the history of Troy,
that I did not repeatedly visit.

Unless I were convinced that you are not one
of those incredulous matter-of-fact men, who
doubt the existence of everything not suscep-
tible of demonstration, I should spare you the
repetition of my feelings and impressions when
I visited that classic region, and of the delight
I experienced in wandering along the banks of
the lovely streams that fertilise the Trojan plain.
Here that city once stood which has been im-
mortalised, not by the perishable sculptor or the
crumbling column, but by the eternal verses of
Homer ; and although not one stone of that
celebrated city now stands upon another, not one
fragment of its palaces remains to tell of its gran-
deur, not even a trace is left of its existence,
save in the writings of the ancients ; yet do not
these contain sufficient evidence to convince the
unprejudiced mind, that on the site once occupied
by the heroic Troy, the miserable village of
Boumarbashi is now built?

For myself, as I most piously believe every
sentence of the historical details of the Iliad, it
was indeed a pleasure to link every surrounding
object with some event in Trojan history, and to

TO THE SITE OF TROT. 123

recal to my imagination the glorious deeds of the
great heroes of antiquity ; and though the sapient
pedant may pity me for revelling in delusion, yet
I may equally compassionate him for being
chained too closely to realities.

I went over the ground, with Homer for my
guide ; and if the Iliad had only been written
yesterday, the site, the various mounds, emi-
nences, and rivers^ could not have been more
accurately described. There is the identical
plain between the Hellespont and Mount Ida's
encircling chain^ at whose base is situated Bour-
narbashi, exactly nine miles from the shore.

We also find the source of the Scamander
close to the town, near the city gate of Troy,
called Scean, precisely as the bard described it :
besides many other corroborative circumstances,
which it would be tedious to enumerate. Again,
how admirably adapted was this site for that of a
great city, — a fine luxuriant plain, watered by
fertilising rivers communicating with the sea, and
no doubt navigable for the small vessels then in
use. The abundant springs of pure water, which
here have their source in an immense rock, would
also supply an additional inducement to the
wandering tribes of old, with their flocks and
herds, to select this spot on which to pitch their
tents.

124 EXCURSION FROM THE DARDANELLES

As a proof that the siege of Troy was not a
creation of the bard of antiquity, did not Alex-
ander the Great visit it, and offer up sacrifices to
the gods on the tomb of Achilles ? At a later
period, did not Csesar make a pilgrimage to this
spot, hallowed by deeds of heroism ? when, it is
recorded, considerable remains of the city still
existed ; and the opinion is very generally enter-
tained, that Alexandria Troas was principally
built from the ruins of its namesake.

On an eminence above Bournarbashi stands
the tomb of Hector, supposed to be the Perga-
mus : it is unlike every other of the tumuli found
here, which consists of earth only, and may be
compared to a pyramid of disjointed stones.
This tomb is well worthy of a visit, were it only
for the enjoyment of the superb prospect it com-
mands over the surrounding country. The Sca-
mander and the Simois are seen meandering
through the plain beneath, bounded in the far
distance by the Thracian mountains in Europe
and the promontory of Segeum, now called Cape
Janissary. It also includes a slight glimpse of the
Hellespont, appearing like an arrowy river, toge-
ther with the consecrated tumuli on its banks, oc-
cupying, according to Homer, precisely the same
spot as did the camp of the Greeks during the
siege of Troy. In the centre of this interesting

TO THE SITE OF TROY. 125

picture we see elevated the mound which bears
the name of Ilus, and a little to the right the
gigantic tomb of Cesutus; while in the back
ground, towering above all, rises Mount Ida,
with its snow-crowned pinnacle Gargara, from
whence the gods themselves regarded with asto-
nishment the heroic deeds of man !

126 VOYAGE FROM THE DARDANELLES

LETTER XIII.

HBLLB8PONT — SCENERY — AUSTRIAN STEAM-BOAT — PASSEN-
GERS SEA OF MARMORA— ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY —

FIRST IMPRESSIONS ON ARRIVING AT STAMBOUL— ITS
SPLENDOUB AND POVERTY — CANINE SCAVENGERS— ME-
LANCHOLY INSTANCE OF THBIE VORACITY — THE SUBURB

GALATA—- TURKISH CEMETERY SUBURB OF PERA — GREEK

BOARDING-HOUSE — ENGLISH INl^ATES.

The scenery on the banks of the blue sea of Hel-
las fell far short of my expectations, for most of
the descriptions given by travellers of its beauties
are exaggerated ; even the elegant lines of Byron,
in his Bride of Ahydos, are more applicable to the
Bosphorus than to these scorched, half-barren
shores. No doubt the tourist, on first arriving in
this classic strait, is prepossessed in its favour,
and regards every object through the medium
with which his own imagination has invested it ;
for he remembers that it is immortalised, not only
by the hapless lover Leander and our own delight-
ful Byron, but the glorious exploit of 1806, when
our brave mariners passed the whole of the bat-

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 127

teries in defiance of a discharge of cannon which
might have sunk a navy.

If this deed of daring' could then have been per-
formed with so' little danger, how much more
practicable would it now be with the aid of steam-
boats ! Besides, nothing could be easier than to
capture any of the batteries by land, their whole
strength being on the sea-side ; and then silence
the other by the guns of its opposite neighbour.

But to return to our obseryations on the
scenery. To be sure, there is the fine rushing
stream with a succession of picturesque castles
bristling with cannon, the curious red-painted
villas and chiosks of the Turks rising here and
there in the midst of gardens blooming with
orchards, olives,[and vineyards, the swelling dome
of the mosque and the slender white minaret
mingling their graceful forms with the dark green
of the towering cypress. All these are very
pretty things, and novel to the European tra-
veller ; but they are not su£5lcient to form the sub-
lime scenes which we had promised to our hopes.

At Chanah-Kalesi I found the Austrian steam-
packet, the Maria Dorothea, commanded by Cap-
tain Ford, a gentleman in every respect superior
to most of his brethren with whom it has been my
lot to travel : the ofi&cer, however, was more de-
sei-ving of commendation than his vessel, which.

128 VOYAGE FROM THE DARDANELLES

being only one of seventy-horse power, was too
small for a sea-boat, and shipped, at the slightest
breeze, quantities of water ; but, in some degree
to counterbalance this inconvenience, the accom-
modations were extremely good.

I found the deck literally covered with passen-
gers ; and truth to say, it required no little care
so to pick my way as not to incommode them, for
nearly the whole two hundred were seated, or,
to use the right word, squatted on their carpets.
These consisted of a melange of the different
oriental tribes that we everywhere find in this
country, together with a few Franks ; their variety
of costume was infinite, especially in the form
and colour of their turbans ; for though the higher
ranks and military men have renounced this mode
of head-dress, yet it is still very generally re-
tained by the mass of the population of the pro-
vinces. This motley assemblage, who would
have required the pencil of a Wilkie to do them
justice, were enjoying their long tchibouques, or
removing from their garments certain creeping
tormentors, which in warm countries are sure to
be the companions of those who are not very
cleanly in their persons.

Instead, however, of the ruthless slaughter I
have seen perpetrated on similar occasions in
Christendom, the more merciful disciple of Ma-

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 129

iiomet, contented with ridding himself of the nui-
sance, was quite careless as to the fate of his
neighbour ; for the little plagues were quietly-
placed upon the deck, and left to the full enjoy-
ment of life and liberty. But this boon, though
no doubt very agreeable to them, was not so to
the few Franks on board, who regarded with dis-
may a process so likely to people their garments
with an unwelcome population.

The Frank passengers consisted of merchants
flying from the plague, which now raged with
great virulence at Smyrna, a town at no time
remarkable for its salubrity, from which cause
probably arose the circumstance of which these
gentlemen informed me : namely, that such was
the malignity of the cholera when it desolated
this unlucky town, that hundreds of persons were
swept into eternity in five minutes after the
attack of the epidemic.

Aided by steam, we overcame both the impetu-
osity of the current and a stiff breeze in our teeth ;
and gliding rapidly along, soon passed Gallipoli,
now only interesting as being the fatal spot on
which the Turk first planted the Crescent in Eu-
rope. We then entered the magnificent basin of
the Propontis, usually called the Sea of Marmora,
from the island of the same name. The country
on the Asiatic side possessed a few poetic features,

VOL. I. K

130 VOYAGE FROM THE DARDANELLES

but the scenery in general was neither picturesque
nor romantic; and the few towns and villages
were so miserable as to render the aspect still
more gloomy, which was only relieved by the dis-
tant prospect of Mount Olympus, whose snowy
ridge, even divested of its classical associations,
formed a sublime feature in the landscape.

Indeed, everything considered, the approach
to Stamboul by the sea of Marmora is far less
striking than that by the Bosphorus ; for it is not
till we have doubled the point where the seraglio
is erected, and enter the Golden Horn, that the
magical panorama of the Ottoman capital bursts
upon the view. The attention of the traveller is
immediately arrested by its peculiarly favourable
situation, appearing alike calculated to give laws
to the world, or to engross its commerce. The
straits of the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles, if
properly fortified, and defended with only mode-
rate courage, might bid defiance to any attack by
sea ; and its fine bay, the Golden Horn, sheltered
from every wind, is sufficiently deep and capa-
cious to receive the ships of every maritime
nation in the world. By the same narrow chan-
nels, she commands at once the trade of the
north and the south ; and when the canal, now
in progress to unite the Danube with the Rhine,
shall be completed^ the merchant of Constanti-

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 131

nople will then possess a secure medium of
transit for the luxuries of the east to Hungary,
Germany, and the capital of Great Britain.

Yet, though blessed with all these advantages,
in addition to a climate the most delightful, and
a soil producing all that can cheer life, we find
the inhabitants miserable ; and instead of an opu-
lent commercial city, the poorest metropolis in
the world. Never, indeed, were a people more
blind to their interests than the Turks ; when, by
the exercise of only a moderate share of common
sense and industry, they might have poured into
their capital the riches of the earth. That the
Russians should be desirous to establish them-
selves at Constantinople can be no matter of sur-
prise ; and we must almost feel astonished at the
forbearance of the young emperor, when con-
queror of Adrianople, that he did not march
forward and secure the glorious prize, even at
the hazard of a general European war.

Having contemplated for some time, with feel-
ings of the warmest admiration, this most pictu-
resque of all cities ; having glanced from palace
to seraglio ; from mosque and minaret to chiosk
and brightly painted summer villas; from cy-
press, plane, and vine-clad hills, to the mysteri-
ous recesses of Scutari's interminable cemetery,
the romantic acclivities of Bulgurlu, and the

K 2

1 32 CONSTANTINOPLE.

blue mountains of Asia Minor; I reluctantly
stepped into the light cdik^ and darted rapidly
across the Golden Horn to Pera, the infidel sub-
urb of proud Stamboul.

But whoever would paint the horrors of semi-
barbarism in their most vivid colours, has only to
land, and wade through the abominations of this
den of disease. How sincerely I regretted that
I could not have remained for ever in a blissful
dream respecting its beauty, for all the promises
held out by its external appearance were most
glaringly falsified.

I found myself, on landing, in narrow unpaved
streets, covered with every imaginable descrip-
tion of filth and dirt. Then the caninepopulation :
here thousands of lazy, mangy curs, their wolf-
like aspect rendered still fiercer by hunger, lay
in the middle of the streets, exactly in the spot
over which the passenger must pass. These
wretched animals, being considered by the Turks
unclean, are left without a master or a home,
their only shelter being the gateways and benches,
and their only sustenance the miserable food they
can find in the streets ; and even this is disputed
by the vultures, who hover over the town in
numbers, constantly on the watch for prey.

When it happens, which is not unfrequently
the case, that the dogs by their utmost industry

CONSTilNTlNOPLE. 133

can only procure scanty gleanings, they send
forth such loud and repeated howlings, that a
Frank feels much inclined to extend towards
them a wish similar to that uttered by the ten-
der-hearted Nero for his beloved subjects. As
these Stamboul plagues are infected with the true
Turkish antipathy to Giaours, they seldom fail to
attack every christian stranger, inflicting on some
occasions the most serious injury. A melancholy
instance of their ferocity is related by the inhiabi-
tants of Pera, which occurred not long since. A
Frenchman, the master of a brig, having spent the
evening with a friend, set out after nightfall on
his return to his ship, at anchor in the port ; but
whether he had called to visit a friend, lost his
way, or indulged too freely in the juice of the
grape, is not known : certain it is, that the next
morning all that remained of the miserable man
were his bones and attire.

Throughout the whole of this city and its
suburbs, there is nothing that deserves the name
of a street, narrow lanes being their legitimate
appellation. In that quarter called Galata, the
great resort of the maritime population, we sel-
dom meet with any other specimens of humanity
than drunken sailors, or boys and women of the
most degraded class ; who may be seen issuing
out of cabarets which emit such unsavoury exha-

] 34 CONSTANTINOPLE.

latioDs, that it would be difficult to find their
parallel in any other part of the world. Such
are the objects that meet the vision of a stranger
on his fii*8t landing.

To arrive at Pera, I was obliged to pass
through the Turkish champs des mortSj a dense
grove of gloomy cypresses, crowded with white
tombstones ; and as these are adorned with im-
mense turbans, they now appeared, enveloped in
the shades of evening, exactly like a host of
ghosts glaring from their shadowy recesses.

On entering Pera, I was somewhat relieved by
the aspect of a few clean houses, and open shops
filled with European manufactures. This is the
principal quarter appropriated to the residence of
the rich Franks, and, although the cleanest and
best built of all the suburbs, is still a miserable
place, and more deserves the name of a labyrinth,
so totally destitute is it of the slightest preten-
sions to regularity. Most of the large houses
look like wooden barracks, and the late fire gave
the whole suburb a peculiarly desolate aspect.

Here are situated the houses, or rather sheds,
of the ambassadors ; for as the greater number of
their mansions were burnt, they now reside at
their country-houses, in the pretty villages of
Therapia and Buyukderfe. In this quarter we
find two or three Greek and Italian inns ; of these

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 36

the principal is the European hotel, but the Eng-
lish generally prefer residing at the pensionat of
M. Giusepino, in the Strada Santa Maria. The
charge is a ducat per day, which includes a very
good breakfast, dinner with a bottle of wine, tea,
and a sleeping-room ; and when compared with
the other dirty inns and lodging-houses, it can-
not be too highly recommended.

I had the pleasure to find domiciliated at Giu-
sepino's a pleasant party of English travellers,
including my friend Mr. Newton, together with
Colonel Considine and several British officers
who had come to Constantinople in consequence
of an invitation from the Turkish government, for
the purpose of instructing the troops in European
tactics. But unfortunately, a short time previous
to their arrival, occurred the unlucky affair of
Mr. Churchill, which had so materially inter-
rupted the harmony between the Ottoman Porte
and the British legation. Hence it was doubtful
whether the officers would be employed : they
had, however, been most cordially received by
the Seraskier Pacha, the minister of war.

136 CONSTANTINOPLE.

LETTER XIV.

A RAMBLB THROUGH STAMBOUL — PATROL INFLAMMABLB

NATURR OP THE BUILDINGS — BAZAARS MERCHANTS — TRI-
PLING REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY — AQUEDUCT— THE TOWER
OP LBANDER — LEGEND ATTACHED TO IT — BEAUTY OP THE
CAIKS — BOATMEN — VALLEY OP SWEET WATERS — ITS
MIASMA — TURKISH PROMENADE — GAY ASSEMBLY — TURKISH
LADIES — UNHEALTHY ASPECT OP THE POPULATION —
CAUSES OP THE INSALUBRITY OP CONSTANTINOPLE.

The da)^ after my arrival, I proceeded to view
Constantinople, its suburbs and adjacent villages,
more in detail ; and though I cannot pretend to
give you any other than a slight sketch, yet I
will not fail to particularise those objects which
have most interested me. This city is altogether
unlike any other I have ever seen ; the houses
are, for the most part, only one story high, and
the silence that pervades a capital, in which so
large a concourse of human beings are congre-
gated, is gloomy and depressing. As for carts
and carriages rolling through the streets, there
are none, with the exception of a few vehicles

CONSTANTINOPLE. 137

called ar abacs, drawn by buffaloes, at a hearse-like
pace, in which the Turkish women^ the greater
number still veiled to the eyes, take the air.

The only sounds that interrupt the stillness,
are the cries of the itinerant venders of sweet-
meats and sherbets, or the muezzin calling the
faithful to prayer from the tops of the minarets.
These are succeeded at night by the howling
and barking of dogs, the screams of vultures, and
the patrol striking the stones with their iron-
shod staves, and shouting with all the force of
their lungs, " YangenrarT fire ! fire ! for scarcely
a night passes in which a fire does not occur
in some part of this most inflammable city.

Nor can we feel surprised at this, when we
remember that the whole town, with the excep-
tion of the mosques and a few government ofiices,
is built of wood. Yet, strange to say, although
this dreadful scourge has repeatedly reduced the
greater part of this unfortunate capital to ruins,
these infatuated people still continue to construct
their dwellings of the same material : neither do
they make the slightest alteration in the archi-
tecture, but proceed to erect upon the same spot
a duplicate of its predecessor.

The most amusing places for passing an idle
half hour are the bazaars. These consist of long
ranges of galleries, or arcades, so extensive as to

1 38 CONSTANTINOPLE.

resemble a city within a city ; they are appro-
priated to the sale of every description of mer-
chandise, from a diamond-ring to a pipe-bowl,
from a Cachmire shawl to a carpet. In the
merchants we find every variety of costume,
manners, and language.

The Turk may be at once recognised by the
gravity of his demeanour : squatted on his coun-
ter, he quietly smokes his tchibouque, and most
leisurely transfers his wares to such customers as
will purchase them.

The Armenian is distinguished by the cheerful,
or, as the Frank construes it, designing smile on
his countenance : he is taciturn, patient, civil, yet
wily as a serpent, and generally wealthy. How
different from the noisy, mercurial Greek, on
approaching whose stall you are assailed with a
torrent of eloquence, describing the excellence
of his merchandise : each separate article is ex-
hibited, and its perfections most volubly set forth ;
but the traveller must be aware of giving credence
to his representations, for he is generally a cheat.

The aspect of the oppressed, humiliated He-
brew, is here very different from that of his
happier brethren in our own more tolerant land.
Accustomed from infancy to contumely and scorn,
he is patient, mild, and forbearing. Obliged to
perform the office of interpreter between the

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 39

Turks and Franks in all their bargains, he is
generally acquainted with seven or eight lan-
guages ; but speaks none correctly, and always
with the nasal accent peculiar to this people in
every part of the world. It is, indeed, very dif-
ficult to comprehend him ; however, by calling in
the aid of pantomime, he generally succeeds,
when he is often no better rewarded by the
haughty Turk than with every insulting epithet.

Few are the vestiges now existing of the once
glorious city of Constantine ; and in seeking for
the remains of his sumptuous palace, we find no-
thing more dignified than the cattle-market, the
mosque of San Sophia being the only edifice that
has survived the devastation of war and the rule
of the Osinanlis. The seraglio, rather an im-
posing building, is said to occupy a large portion
of the site of the ancient Byzantium ; and the
Hippodrome, the race-course of the Greeks, now
the Atmeidan (Champs de Mars) of the Turks, is
only interesting for having in its centre an Egyp-
tian obelisk, together with the famous brazen
column composed of three spiral serpents, which
the butchering barbarians have thought proper
to decapitate.

The aqueduct still exists, and still supplies
Stamboul with water, as it did in the days of the
conquerors of the world ; and, whether viewed

140 CONSTANTINOPLE.

from the Bosphorus or its shores, forms a very
beautiful feature in the landscape. The splendid
bath, with its hundred marble pillars, so long
hidden under the ruins of the once-proud city,
has again seen the light. These are the only
lions of antiquity to be found in Stamboul at the
present day, with the exception of the celebrated
Tour de Leandre, or, as the Turks more appro-
priately call it, Kiz-Koulesi, the Tower of the
Maiden, which is more romantic for its legend
than its form, although it has the advantage of
being built upon a rock in the midst of the
rapid Bosphorus.

Do not, however, suppose that this tower is in
any way connected, with the current-daring lover
of Hero. No; for tradition tells us that this
singular structure was erected by one '^of the
early emperors of Byzantium, solely for the pro-
tection of a very beautiful daughter ; of whom it
was prophesied at her birth, that she should die
by the sting of a serpent. With the hope of
eluding the prediction, the fond father had this
isolated tower erected for her habitation, and her
various wants supplied from his own palace. But
Destiny, who is very obstinate in accomplishing
her purposes, blinded the vigilance of the attend-
ants ; for they allowed an asp, concealed in a
bouquet of flowers, to fulfil the decrees of her
inexorable fate.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 14 1

Finding but little amusement in perambulating
the dreary, half-deserted streets of Constanti-
nople, or in watching the porpoise-like march of
the slowly-moving Turk, or his lady-phantom
closely enveloped in the ample folds of the yash-
macky I entered my cdiky resolving to ascertain
if the environs afforded more variety and anima-
tion. These boats, the most beautiful work of a
Turk's hand, are extremely elegant, measure
about thirty feet long, and from two to three in
breadth. They are generally built of oak or
chesnut, fancifully carved and varnished : the
prow is sharply pointed with iron, and cuts through
the water with the velocity of an arrow. They
are somewhat perilous to strangers, for, by a very
slight inclination to either side, they lose their
equilibrium ; this the Turks generally preserve,
by lying down in the centre.

Thousands of these pretty little barks may be
seen skimming from shore to shore, varying in
dimensions, and calculated to hold from four to
eight persons. The more wealthy of the inhabi-
tants here, like those of Venice, substitute a boat
for a carriage ; the rowers being also employed
as servants.

The boatmen, who are said to amount to up-
wards of sixty thousand, are a very fine race
of men, and usually under thirty years of age.

142 CONSTANTINOPLE,

Their costume tends not a little to improve their
personal appearance : the folds of their white Cos-
sack trowsers are confined at the waist by a silk
shawl; a sort of silk shirt, open at the throat, and
displaying the fine contour of the neck and chest,
with very full sleeves only descending to the el-
bow, completes their dress, — except a red woollen
cap, surmounted by a blue silk tassel, which^ when
waving in the wind, imparts a very graceful effect
to the tout ensemble.

My first aquatic excursion was to the romantic
Kiat-hane, or, as the Franks call it, " les Eaux
Douces, " the favouritepromenade of the Stambouli
beau mondey and so frequently described by travel-
lers as the most lovely of all the lovely spots in the
immediate vicinity of the capital. We soon shot
through the beautiful bay of the Golden Horn,
and ascended the Barbyses, which slowly glides
through a narrow valley, lined on either side by
romantic hills. Myriads of wild bees, and butter-
flies of every shade and colour, were then mur-
muring in the long grass on its verdant banks, or
revelling among the roses and other flowers of the
garden ; while those poetical birds, the turtle-
dove and the stork, so characteristic of the land
of the east, vied with each other in their tender
endearments of love, and made the groves of
cypresses resound with their incessant cooing.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 143

In addition to all this, there are the two pretty
chiosks belonging to the great Padishah himself.
Who then will refuse to acknowledge that Kiat-
hane is a very delightful place — brilliant like a
glimpse of paradise ? But all light has its shade,
and this place, although called by the attractive
name of * * the Valley of Sweet Waters," yet
might with equal tnith be termed the valley of
death ; for, treacherous as the serpent in the
grass, while its beautiful scenery charms the
senses, its poisonous miasma insidiously creeps
through the veins, inoculates the frame with dis-
ease» and not unfrequently with death.

This is owing to the situation of the valley at
the confluence of the two small stagnant marshy
rivers, the Barbyses and the Cydares ; and being
a long narrow defile between lofty hills, that com-
pletely exclude the purifying summer winds from
the Euxine, the mephitic vapours generated are
so extremely noxious, that fever is certain to
be the portion of him who slumbers within their
influence, or prolongs his stay in the *^ Valley of
Sweet Waters !" after sunset.

I have already said that the aspect of the sur-
rounding country was romantic and picturesque :
this was improved by flocks of sheep, and herds
of cattle and horses, quietly grazing on the sloping
meadows, attended by Bulgarian shepherds play-

144 CONSTANTINOPLE.

iog their doleful ditties on their still more doleful
pipes, and as primitive in their costume and man-
ners as if they had just arrived from the wilds of
Tartary. In addition to these, droves of buffa-
loes were wallowing in the mire on the banks of
the rivers, and hundreds of the inhabitants of
Constantinople enjoying the bright sun of a day
in June.

Here the Turks, seated upon carpets beneath
the cool shade of fine plane trees, were smoking
their eternal tchibouques : there, in separate
groups, Armenian, Turkish, Grecian, and Jewish
women, in their respective costumes, were pro-
menading and smoking amidst groves of cypresses,
intermingled with equestrians mounted on Ara-
bian horses richly caparisoned, and carriages, of
which I can give you no better idea than to say
that they resembled gilded cages covered with
scarlet cloth, and fitted up with cushions ; the
whole forming a picture perfectly oriental. Num-
bers of jesters performing their grotesque antics,
together with itinerant musicians, dancing-girls,
fortune-tellers, venders of sweetmeats, sherbet,
and coffee, mulatto servants and sable eunuchs,
contributed to the variety and animation of the
scene. I was informed that many of the ladies
I saw unveiled were Turkish ; and it appears, in
compliance with the wishes of the Sultan, this

CONSTANTINOrLE. 145

innovation upon the laws of the harem is daily
becoming more general.

I confess, I think that travellers have somewhat
overrated the beauty and peculiar attraction of the
women in Constantinople. Through the kindness
of ray Turkish friends, I had moie than once the
honour of partaking of an entertainment served
by the women of my host unveiled ; and certainly,
so far as regards the transparent paleness of their
complexions and the delicate outline of their re-
gular features, contrasted with the darkest hair,
aud eyes soft and black as the gazelle*s, they are
very lovely women : but there is a total want of
vivacity, sentiment, and intelligence in their ex-
pression ; and however becoming their dress may
be in -doors, when divested of the ill-shaped wrap-
per, yet this, together with the veil bound over
the face, which is only partially abandoned, so
completely envelopes their forms when taking the
air, that grace and elegance are totally out of the
question. Nor do their yellow leather boots, or
slipshod slippers, by any means add to the beauty
of their feet ; which little supporters every oriental
woman that I ever beheld invariably turns inward,
— a practice no doubt originated by the position
in which they are accustomed to sit.

Some of the Grecian women, in their pretty
turbaned head-dresses, I thought handsome ; but

VOL. 1. L

146 CONSTANTINOPLE.

even these had, in common with the whole of the
Constantinople population, a pallid tint, which
plainly told that this capital is not healthy : and,
indeed, whoever has contemplated the swampy
tracts in its neighbourhood, will find no difficulty
in explaining at least one of the causes.

Let us regard the muddy streams that flow into
the Propontis and the Golden Horn, obstructed
at their mouths and dilated into morasses ; the
putrid lake of Nicea, the fertile swamps of
Bythnia, and the stagnant ponds at Belgrade ;
and we cannot feel surprised, when the wind
brings the effluvia from any of these marshes into
the pent-up channel of the Golden Horn and the
narrow dirty lanes of Stamboul, that disease
invariably follows.

Still, if an industrious, intelligent people occu-
pied the country, this evil might be easily reme-
died by judicious draining. Not that this cause
of insalubrity, however prolific, is its only origin ;
for it may be more clearly traced to the dirty,
filthy habits of the inhabitants, who, enervated
by excesses, become the ready recipients of ma-
laria.

The passing stranger might deem the Turks,
from their repeated ablutions and frequent use of
the bath, a cleanly people. No such thing ; for
though these practices, so far as they go, deserve

CONSTANTINOPLE. 147

commendation, yet their wearing apparel is sel-
dom changed, and still more seldom washed :
add to which, the virtue of cleanliness is totally
disregarded in their towns, for the narrow streets
have no other scavengers than the vultures and
dogs. Sewers are totally unknown, and the car-
casses of such animals as may happen to die, re-
main in the public thoroughfare till the above-
mentioned scavengers find leisure and appetite
to consume them ; and should they happen to be
bulky, such as camels, donkeys, or horses, I have
more than once seen a narrow lane impassable.

Another most pernicious practice is, that the
butchers are permitted to make the streets their
slaughter-houses : hence, when all these com-
bined horrors of dirt and laziness are considered,
it appears an inevitable result that an epidemic
should invariably assume the most malignant
form . We may therefore rest assured , that marsh
malaria is not the only scourge that is gradually
depopulating these countries ; it being only se-
condary to the mischief produced by decomposed
animal matter, which, aided by a predisposed
state of the atmosphere, is, according to the opi-
nion of the best-informed medical men (domicili-
ated in the east) with whom I conversed, the
primary cause of the plague. It is also the rea-
son why this dreadful malady is confined to these

L 2

148 CONSTANTINOPLE.

countries, while others in similar latitudes are
exempt ; which is further demonstrated by the
fact, that it never prevails any length of time in
a country where cleanliness is generally practised.
Since the breaking out of the plague at Smyrna,
and its rapid progress in the adjoining provinces,
the alarm has spread to Constantinople, which
has had the effect of reviving in the mind of the
Sultan his intention to establish* lazarettos
throughout the empire. As, however, the Koran
expressly forbids its followers to stop the advances
of the destroying angel, the determination of the
people to obey the commands of the prophet must
first be overcome, before we can expect to see
this resolution acted upon. Still, as the Sultan
has already emancipated himself from more than
one superstitious observance, and, with a mind far
in advance of the intellectual condition of his
people, effected several important reforms tend-
ing to their regeneration, a hope is raised for his
future success. But do not fall into the error of
supposing, that if lazarettos were established to-
morrow, this fearfal scourge would be eradicated
from the Turkish empire. No ; be assured the

* Since the publication of the first edition of this work^
Sultan Mahmoud has succeeded, notwithstanding the opposi-
tion of the MahoDiedan clergy, in establishing lazarettos and
quarantine laws throughout his dominions.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 149

germ of the disease lies iu the causes I have spe-
cified : and the Sultan could not confer a greater
benefit upon posterity, nor originate a plan that
^ould more effectually banish the plague from his
dominions, than to enforce a complete reforma-
tion in the habits and manners of the people,
their houses, towns, and cities.

150 CONSTANTINOPLE.

LETTER XV.

CLIMATE OF CONSTANTINOPLE AQUATIC EXCURSIONS PIC-
TURESQUE APPEARANCE OF THE CITY FRANK SOCIETY —

FEMALE SLAVE BAZAAR — ITS REPULSIVE FEATURES VALUE

OF THE WOMEN — SCARCITY OF CIRCASSIANS I N THE MARKET.

After the morbid details I transmitted in my last
letter, I dare say you consider me a most pesti-
lential fellow, and that I have given this unfa-
vourable description of its salubrity, entirely to
deter you from your intended visit to the capital
of the Osmanlis. Be assured, however, that the
traveller possessed of health and prudence may
reside here without the slightest apprehension ;
for though the plague too frequently prevails,
and the malaria sometimes causes severe indis-
position to the incautious, whether native or
stranger, yet the mortality, when compared with
other capitals, is not so great as might be sup-
posed.

Must we not therefore conclude, that the cli-
mate is not generally prejudicial to he&lth, other-
wise the King of Terrors, with such formidable

CONSTANTINOPLE. 161

allies, would ere this have swept away the entire
population. And we must also be of the opinion,
that if judicious sanatary laws were in force, Con-
stantinople would be as healthy as the most salu-
brious city in Europe.

But how are these innovating ordinances to be
established among a people, who are taught from
the cradle to regard with contempt every usage
that emanates from Christians, and every attempt
to imitate them represented by their ignorant
fanatic priests as the most sinful impiety. Still it
must be confessed, that to render the town salu-
brious would be a somewhat expensive under-
taking ; for it must first be burnt to ashes in order
to destroy the germ of pestilence, and then re-
built according to the most approved European
plans.

I shall now take leave of this dry subject, and
conduct you with me in my aquatic excursions,
which, after all, are the great charm of this city ;
and, indeed, nothing can be more delightful than
to be seated in one of these pretty fairy barks,
which in elegance far surpass the funereal gon-
dolas of Venice, and are infinitely superior to any-
thing we have in England.

How often have I glided over the clear blue
waves of the Golden Horn from Galata to Scu-
tari, from Buyukdere and Therapia on the Bos-

152 CONSTANTINOPLE.

phorus, to the lovely Grecian Islands of Prinkipo
in the sea of Marmora, &c. In short, I rarely
passed a day without a boating expedition, to
which I attribute, in a great measure, the unin-
terrupted good health I enjoyed.

It was here, indeed, while reclining in my caik
beneath the unclouded brilliance of a southern
sky, that I passed the pleasantest hours of my
residence at Stamboul ; from hence, I was accus-
tomed to contemplate the extensive coup d'oeilof
this mo^t picturesque city. I glanced from the
swelling domes, resplendent spires, and crescent-
crowned minarets, to the vast suburbs of Galata,
Pera, and the wide-spreading Scutari, with its
dark^roves of mournful cypresses.

By merely making a slight curve, I came to the
transparent Bosphorus with its verdant banks and
pretty villages : then I turned to the seven towers
of the sea of Marmora and the massive walls of
the seraglio, each of which forms in itself a pic-
ture. Then my eye wandered to the broad
expanse of the Propontis, and the wavy outline of
the wild heathy hills of Thrace ; from the solitary
mountains of Asia Minor to the snowy summit of
the sublime Olympus. These scenes, which defy
the power of language to describe, or the skill
of the painter to depict, constituted an unfailing
source of pleasure during ray sojourn in a city as

CONSTANTINOPLE. 153

dull, with respect to amusements and society, as
if inhabited by a community of Trappists.

The resources of the English legation were
wanting ; for the palace of the ambassador having
been consumed during the late conflagration at
Pera, his excellency is obliged to reside at pre-
sent in the country, at Therapia, some seven or
eight miles distant. Our worthy consul, Mr.

C , is still there ^ but, beyond his hospitable

roof, if the traveller is desirous of enjoying the
society of the English and Frank merchants, he
will be sadly disappointed ; and still more so, if
he expects to receive any accurate information
respecting the country ; for jarring interests on
the one hand, and the fear of the plague on the
other, prevent any extended intercourse. And if
to these we add the other members of the corps
diplomatique^ who unfortunately, from living in a
metropolis, the very hotbed of every species of
political intrigue, are not always on visiting terms
with each other, I have enumerated the Frank
society of Constantinople.

I was, however, fortunate in having a Turkish

friend at Stamboul : this was M Effendi ,

of whom you must have heard, or seen, when he
resided in England, and from whose high rank in
the divan and cultivated intellect, I now had an
opportunity ofglcaning much valuable information

154 CONSTANTINOPLE.

respecting Turkey and her government. He
kindly presented me to the Sultan, and intro-
duced me to some of the most patriotic men in
the empire, and also procured me many other
advantages not usually accorded to a stranger.
I cannot conceive why this excellent man has been
denounced as a friend to the interests of Russia,
for assuredly every action of his life has been de-
voted to advance the welfare of his country ; and
notwithstanding all that has been said to the con-
trary, he has ever proved himself a firm advocate
of England, and of the integrity of her policy
towards Turkey. And those among my compa-
triots who have enjoyed his hospitality, and
are acquainted with the real excellencies of his
character, will confirm the truth of what is here
asserted respecting him.

One of my first visits was to the bazaar for the
sale of female slaves. Franks, if known to be
such, are not permitted to enter ; but being
habited in the dress of a Turkish officer, and
accompanied by my Turkish friend, I easily
gained admittance. This building consists of a
large quadrangular court, two stories high, sur-
rounded by a portico, with a gallery above : each
story contains a range of small cells similar to
those in a monastery.

The ground-floor is appropriated to the copper-

CONSTANTINOPLE, 155

coloured daughters of Abysinuia and Degro
women; while those above, beiug somewhat more
elegant and airy, are reserved for the beauties
of Circassia, Georgia, Mingrelia, Greece, &c.
These unfortunates, for the most part pale and
emaciated, were huddled like animals siz or seven
together, the thermometer at the same time rang-
ing at ninety degrees in the shade. The majority
were gaudily attired for the purpose of heightening
their charms, and many of them were strikingly
beautiful.

Several of the black women, particularly the
Abyssinians, were remarkable for the symmetry
of their forms and features. But how disgusting
was it to behold every barbarian of an Osmanli
who pretended to be a judge of female perfections,
or the licentious libertine, examining the fea*
tures and forms of the poor innocent wretches
exposed for sale like herds of cattle. Really no
scene of human wretchedness and degradation
can equal this ; and however consonant the prac-
tice may be to oriental manners, and those of
other slave countries, it excited in me feelings of
the strongest repugnance, and I sincerely re-
gretted having gratified ray curiosity. Indeed, I
would from my soul entreat the man who thinks
highly of human nature, never to cross the
threshold of a slave bazaar.

156 CONSTANTINOPLE.

The bare idea of selling an immortal being, —
life, liberty, all, was absolutely revolting. I felt
ashamed of my species, ashamed of being classed
among beings capable of committing such a crime
against humanity, and never gloried more in the
name of a Briton than at that moment : I wasproud
of my generous country, that had sacrificed mil-
lions to eradicate this stain of barbarism from
every land over which her flag waved.

So strong, however, is the force of early ha-
bits of thinking, that these unfortunate beings
seemed indifferent to their fate ; for they laughed,
skipped, and played together with the greatest
cheerfulness, and even gaiety. Poor children !
to them ignorance was truly bliss ; for, of all that
I beheld, there was not more than half a dozen
that exhibited the appearance of being really
dejected ; the majority did not even seem en*
dowed with the faintest ray of sensibility, and
the oldest could not have arrived at the age of
eighteen.

A few bargains were concluded during our
visit ; when the little victim took up her tiny
packet, covered her face with her white veil,
and followed her new lord, apparently without a
murmur.

Their price, like that of every other commo-
dity, is regulated by the demand and the supply.

CONSTANTINOPLE . 1 57

The Circassians, GeorgiaDS, and Grecians were
the most valued, and always estimated according
to their beauty. The two former being very diffi-
cult to procure, on account of the strict blockade
maintained by Russia on the Circassian coast of
the Black Sea, now fetch as high a price as a
hundred pounds ; a well-made and healthy Abys-
sinian might be purchased for about thirty, while
the poor negro woman was not considered worth
more than ten or fifteen.

168 CONSTANTINOPLE.

LETTER XVI.

VISIT TO THE MOSQUES WITH THE RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR —
MOSQUE OF VALIDO — OF OSMAN III. — OF SOLYMAN THE

MAGNIFICENT HIS TOMB MEDITATIONS OF THE SULTAN

— MOSQUE OF BAJAZET 11.^ — INTERIOR MOSQUE OF ACH-

MET TOMB OF SELIM II. SUPERB MSS. OF THE KORAN

MOSQUE OF SAN SOPHIA — TURKISH FANATICISM—STYLE OF
THE ARCHITECTURE — MOSAIC PAINTINGS — GENERAL OB-
SERVATIONS UPON THE MOSQUES.

Having thus given you some account of the slave
market, I shall next conduct you to the mosques,
which, of all the lions of Constantinople, are the
most difficult of access to a Frank : for hovvrever
relaxed an Osmanii may have become in the
inveteracy of his oriental habits, and hov^ever
desirous to conform to European fashions, yet I
invariably found him, whether believer or sceptic,
ever determined to seal the door of the mosque
to the entrance of the Giaour. Nay, the very
man who would not scruple to introduce me to
his harem, or the most private recesses of Turkish
life, would be proof against every solicitation to

CONSTANTINOPLE. 169

lend his influence in obtaining a sight of the
interior of St. Sophia.

In the present instance, I was indebted to
M. Bout^nefF, the Russian ambassador, who soli-
cited, or rather commanded the boon ; for it is
said, that a Russian petition involuntarily assumes
this form at Constantinople. However, be this
as it may, the privilege was demanded and con-
ceded, for the purpose of gratifying a Russian
lady of high rank, the wife of General Leon
Nariskin, who had recently arrived from Odessa.

However this profanation might have shocked
the pious among the population of Stamboul, yet
the sons of St. Crispin had abundant reason to
rejoice ; for as no person is allowed to enter the
sacred precincts of the mosque without slippers,
and as on these occasions a large concourse of
christian strangers would be certain to • attend,
thousands of piastres would be equally sure to
find their way into the pockets of the slipper-
making tribe.

The first mosque we visited was that usually
called the new mosque, Venidschanir, built by
Valido, mother of Mahomet IV. She was a
woman of masculine mind and daring resolution,
qualities the more remarkable when exhibited in
a country where woman is detained in such de-
basing slavery. Like Catherine de Medicis, she

160 CONSTANTINOPLE.

took advantage of the minority of her son, and
established her influence so firmly, that she di-
rected the springs which then set this great
empire in motion. This mosque had nothing to
distinguish it, except vastness.

We next entered that near the bazaars, com-
pleted by Osman III. in 1750, being the last
work erected in Constantinople on a colossal
scale. This, also, did not exhibit any architec-
tural beauty ; but I could not help noticing a pair
of tremendous caiidelabras, containing wax tapers,
or rather columns, of such gigantic size that they
might have served as masts for a ship.

The mosque of Solyman the Great now at-
tracted our attention, containing his mausoleum,
which was at once simple and striking. Two
coffins, containing the remains of this great man
and his son, covered with Cachmire shawls, on
which lay two turbans, reposed in a pretty pa-
vilion. An inscription in gold letters recorded
their names, and the day of their decease. Around
the tomb, lamps and wax tapers are constantly
burning. The chapel is decorated with tablets,
over which are written different passages of the
KorS.n. This, like every other of the tombs of
the Sultans, is at all times open to the faithful,
who frequently come here to offer up their de-
votions.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 6 1

Near the tomb is a divan, appropriated exclu-
sively to the use of the reigning Sultan ; and here,
it is said, amidst the silence of the grave, and
bending over the ashes of his great ancestor,
Mahmoud meditates upon the moral and political
state of his empire; here engenders his plans for

m

her improvement, his designs for the regeneration
of his people.

This mosque is not less admirable for the bold-
ness of its design, than for the colossal size of the
granite columns which support its splendid dome.
It was originally constructed from the remains of
the christian church St. Euphemia, which also
had been indebted for its materials to the heathen
temple dedicated to Apollo ; having thus served
in succession for the celebration of divine service
to the heathen, Christian, and Mahometan.

In the vicinity of the palace of the Seraskier
Pacha, (minister of war,) we have the fine mosque
of Bajazet II. ; for, with few exceptions, every
Sultan of the Ottoman empire erected one during
his reign. A description, however, of this would
only be a repetition of what I have before said ;
for all these buildings are similar in form and
decorations, the only difference being in size and
splendour.

The beautiful pictures and statues which de-
light the amateur in the temples devoted to

VOL. I. M

162 CONSTANTINOPLE.

Catholic worship, find no place here, being ex-
pressly forbidden by the Koran. A mosque is
generally adorned with several cupolas, supported
by porphyry, jasper, or marble columns ; with a
court*yard in front, decorated with a fountain in
the foim of a temple, and shaded with the united
foliage of the cypress, plane, sycamore, and other
trees, forming a most agreeable retreat during
the heats of summer. The branches are sure to
be the resting-place of myriads of doves ; this bird
being an especial favourite with the disciples of
Mahomet.

The mosque called Achmed, near the Hippo-
drome, is that usually visited by the Sultan and
the different members of the divan on great
public occasions. In the court-yard, a tree was
pointed out to us, upon which, it is said, several
of the janissaries were executed during the gene-
ral massacre of that body.

We now approached San Sophia, the Russian
ambassador having judiciously arranged that we
should visit it the last. I was much struck by its
colossal dimensions; but though anxious to enter^
we were obliged to restrain our impatience, as it
was the third hour of the day, when, according
to the rites of the religion of Mahomet, numbers
of Turks were engaged in prayer.

We occupied ourselves, in the mean time, in

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 63

viewing the adjoining chapel, which contains the
tomb of Selim II., who repaired San Sophia after
it was much injured by an earthquake. Sultan
Selim was worthy of being a priest of Bacchus ;
for, according to his biographers, such was his
devotion to the wines of Cyprus, as to induce him
to undertake an expedition against that island for
the purpose of becoming sole possessor of the
vineyards. The gratification of his desire cost
the lives of twenty -five thousand Greeks; and he
himself, after indulging one evening too freely in
his beloved nectar, fell into a sleep, from which
he only awoke in eternity.

Here we were shown a curious model, in relief,
of the city of the holy prophet : the procession of
the pilgrims is delineated with much spirit and
fidelity. Two superb copies of the Koran were
also objects of general admiration. They were
folio MSS., but executed with such neatness and
precision, that the spectator might deem them
exquisite specimens of typography ; the vignettes
and ornaments were of fine gold, and as they
were beautifully bound in silk, and reposed on a
velvet cushion, presented a most splendid ap-
pearance.

At length the signal was given for our entrance
into San Sophia ; and surely never, since the days
of Constantine, did so large an assemblage of

M 2

164 CONSTANTINOPLE.

Christians cross the threshold of this superb tem-
ple of public worship. Indeed, the louring frown
on the countenances of the Turks, on beholding
the intrusion of such numbers of infidels, made us
almost fear that their ill-humour would break out
in a scene of violence similar to that perpetrated
upon the Chevalier Tamara and his party, who,
you are probably aware, was ambassador from the
court of St. Petersburg to the Ottoman Porte in
the reign of Paul L

The gallant knight, having received a firman
from the Sultan for that purpose, proceeded, ac-
companied with his suite, to visit some of the
mosques ; when, during the time he was in that
of Sultan Solyman, the mouUahs observed a
Russian laughing. Supposing that this levity
originated in contempt for their religion, they
imparted their suspicions to the fanatic mob, who
attacked the ambassador and his retinue, and
would certainly have massacred the whole, if it
had not been for the speedy interference of a
corps of janissaries: as it was, every individual
of the party suffered in a greater or a less degree.

I, however, have no such tragedy to record ;
for the fanatic priests were contented to vent
their ill-humour upon a few unoffending Greeks,
who had snatched a brief respite from their daily
toil to enjoy a momentary glance at the temple

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 65

of their great ancestors ; these the mouUahs rudely
kicked out, either, I suppose, because they were
shabbily dressed, or had forgotten their slippers.

On entering this venerable pile, the silence of
the multitude was remarkable ; they did not utter
even a murmur of admiration ; while here and
there might be seen a kneeling Greek, weeping
over the profanation of the temple of his fore-
fathers. It must indeed have been painful to this
people to behold the spot on which the last of the
Constantines implored the assistance of Heaven,
before he went out to meet the infidel power des-
tined to work his overthrow. The first object
that struck me, as I surveyed the interior of the
edifice, was the colours of Mahomet II., placed
by his own hand on each side of the pulpit to
commemorate his conquest.

The immense area of this stupendous fabric,
being unencumbered by altars, statues, pews, cha-
pels, or indeed any object which can tend to de-
tract from its size, immediately excites the idea
of vastness ; which after all is not so great, when
we remember that the diameter of the dome is no
more than a hundred and five feet, being twenty-
five less than St. Peter's at Rome, and only five
more than St. Paul's of London. The impres-
sion of its magnitude is also, in a great degree,
referable to the very inconsiderable elevation of

166 CONSTANTINOPLE.

the cupola in proportion to its circumference ; for
though the height of the building is a hundred
and sixty-five feet, yet the altitude of the dome is
no more than eighteen. This circumstance con-
stitutes the great and only merit in the architec-
ture of the building. San Sophia is extremely
sombre, and, being destitute of every ornament,
except a few verses from the Koran inscribed on
tablets, gives more the idea of a colossal tomb,
than of a place dedicated to divine worship. Indeed
the only object which reminds a Christian of its
sacred destination is the marble pulpit, from
which the priest delivers a few precepts out of
the Koran, or promulgates a new law ordained
by the Sultan. Still, when the numerous and
many coloured glass lamps suspended from the
dome are lighted, and the spacious edifice filled
by a congregation of worshippers, the efiect must
be most imposing.

The style of the architecture of San Sophia
tells very plainly that it was erected at a period
of the Roman empire, when the principles of
pure taste had become corrupted. The exterior
presents a heterogeneous mixture of piles and
buttresses, and the general efiect of the building
would be dumpy, were it not for the airy, grace-
ful minarets which rise like fairy columns above
the dome.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 167

The interior is not more felicitous in its deco-
rations, for the porphyry, Egyptian granite, and
marble columns are all of different orders, and the
ruins of several heathen temples have evidently
been robbed to furnish them ; many are muti-
lated, and the greater number have been ar-
ranged by the architect in utter defiance of the
laws of symmetry.

The fine mosaic pavement, one of the most
beautiful objects of art belonging to the edifice,
is entirely covered by several folds of Egyptian
matting ; and the splendid mosaic paintings that
ornamented the dome have even shared a worse
fate ; for the Turks, who regard the fine arts as
blasphemous, upon converting the christian
temple into a mosque^ veiled the offending pic-
tures with a thick coat of plaster. They were^
however, destined to sustain a: still greater and
more irreparable injury through the fanaticism of
the Greeks, who, anxious to obtain some relic of
so sacred an edifice, bribed the Turkish custodia
to abstract small pieces of the crystals, which
they caused to be converted into trinkets, and
the pious throughout Christendom became the
purchasers. In process of time, the theft was
discovered : the Mussulmans were furious, and
such has been the angry feeling created in their
breasts, even to the present day, by this act of

168 CONSTANTINOPLE.

sacrilegious spoliation, that the life of any
Christian would certainly be endangered, if he
were to enter St. Sophia without a firman.

The mosques of Constantinople are not calcu-
lated, when viewed in detail, to bear a critical
examination ; still, from their novel style of
architecture, and the graceful form of the taper-
ing minaret, they captivate the imagination of
the beholder, and win from his judgment the
tribute of involuntary admiration. That of St.
Sophia, though it must yield in beauty to the
mosque of Sultan Achmet, the finest building
ever erected by the Turks, is far more interest-
ing, from its connexion with the early history of
the church, the downfal of the empire of the
East, iand the establishment of Islamism in
Europe.

While contemplating the mutilated remains of
the cross, and the statues of the evangelists on
the exterior of San Sophia, how forcibly are we
reminded of that dreadful day when the altars
of Christ were overturned, and but three short
hours intervened between the celebration of
Christian and Mahometan worship ; and this
amidst a carnage, of which the world, fortu-
nately, has had but few examples !

CONSTANTINOPLE. 169

LETTER XVII.

TURKISH LOYB-APFAIR — COURTSHIP — MARRIAGB — PESTI'

VAL — HAREM INTERIOR — CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OP THE

WOMEN TURKISH SUPERSTITION — SULTAN's ASTROLOGER

AMULETS — DECREASE OP FANATICISM TOLERANCE OP

THE MUSSULMANS TOWARDS GIAOURS.

In my last, I hope I conveyed to your mind a
faint outline of the grand temple of Islamism :
the filling up I must leave to your own imagina-
tion ; and as the transition from a church to a
marriage is not difficult, I will now attempt to
give you a sketch of the ceremonial of a Turkish
bridal. In consequence of the absence of all in-
tercourse between the sexes in this country, a
marriage resulting from mutual attachment does
not often occur. When it, however, does really
happen that a youthful EfFendi is captivated by
the shadow of some fair flower of the harem, as,
enveloped in the ample folds of white muslin, she
is repairing to the bath attended by her slaves,
the inamorato, instead of sending a billet-doux,
most sentimentally drops a bouquet of hyacinths

170 CONSTANTINOPLE.

in the path of the lady as she returns, waddling
like a stately swan just emerged from the water ;
for be it remembered, that in Turkey reading and .
writing form no part of the education of the
gentler sex, and not often of their sterner lords.

One of the female attendants, by the aid of a
purse of sequins, is converted into a Mercury ;
she presents the nosegay to her mistress, telling
her that an aspiring butterfly sighs to obtain pos-
session of the beautiful rose ; or, to drop meta-
phor, that a certain rich and handsome Effendi
desires the honour of her hand. Should the rose
blush consent and accept the flowers, a carnation,
wrapped in an embroidered handkerchief, is «ent
to the butterfly; and, as a further encourage-
ment, on her next visit to the bath, by some un-
looked-for accident, the veil drops from her face
and snow-white arms, and she stands for an
instant, revealed in all her loveliness, before her
astonished admirer.

Enchanted by such a vision of beauty, the
butterfly wings its way to the father of the blush-
ing rose ; and either stipulates to pay a certain
sum for the object of his wishes, or wins his con- -
sent by rich presents, and the prospect of the
advantages to be derived from an alliance with
an EfFendi of such powerful connexions.

After this preliminary has been concluded,

CONSTANTINOPLE. 17 1

aud the dowry agreed upon paid, (for in this
country a man is not only obliged to purchase
his wife, but to make a settlement upon her,)
the bridegroom repairs to the mosque, and an-
nounces his intention to the iman, who offers up
a few appropriate prayers ; which shows that
even the Mahometan invests this ceremony with
a religious character. It is also regarded as a
civil contract, being publicly registered in the
presence of the cadi, parents, and friends of both
parties.

When the different formalities have been com-
pleted, the bride is conducted with great pomp to
the bath, where she submits to a long process of
perfuming, anointing, &c. She is then taken to
her husband's dwelling in a very gay, gilded car,
with a gaudy canopy, drawn by a team of buffa-
loes, in which she is seated like a geip in a casket,
her whole form enveloped in a rich gold gauze.

On these festive occasions, there are always
troops of cavaliers in attendance, buffoons, danc-
ing-girls, bands of music, &c« ; therefore the din,
as you may well suppose, caused by these up-
roarious rejoicings, is absolutely deafening. She
is received at her new dwelling by her lord or
his parents, and introduced to the harem assign-
ed for her use; when the ceremony concludes
with two grand entertainments, one for the bride.

172 CONSTANTINOPLE.

and the other for the bridegroom, with their mu-
tual friends.

You are probably aware that the Koran re-
stricts a Turk to four wives, but, on the other
hand, permits him to multiply the number of
his slaves ad infinitum. However, a numerous
harem, with all its paraphernalia of eunuchs,
domestics, &c., is a most expensive affair, which
few Effendis, owing to the impoverished state of
the country, can afford to keep ; hence they
have become more moderate in this indulgence,
and now usually content themselves with a couple
of wives. These, though obliged to submit to
the absolute caprices of their lord, reign despoti-
cally over the slaves and the whole household ;
and not unfrequently, through their artful coquet-
ries, extend their sway even over this great do-
mestic monarch himself.

When visiting my Turkish friends at Constan-
tinople, as I before mentioned, I was more than
once admitted into the harem, the Effendis show-
ing little or no repugnance, in this reforming
nge, to exhibit their wives and slaves ; and such
is the rapid progress in this, as well as other
innovations on their ancient customs, that most
probably, in a few years, we shall find the harem
converted into a salon, and become the general
receiving- room for society.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 173

At some of the entertainments to which I was
invited^ even the wives and slaves of my host
waited upon us at table, for here no woman is
allowed the privilege of dipping in the same dish
with her lord. The rule is, however, sometimes
relaxed in favour of an especial favourite, par-
ticularly if she happens to be the mother of a
boy, a circumstance which always highly exalts
a female, both in the estimation of her lord and
of her companions ; hence, when fate denies her
the happiness of being a mother^ it is regarded
by a woman, both here and throughout the East,
as the greatest curse that can befal her.

Strange to say, the harem I saw at Stamboul,
which exhibited the most complete picture of
oriental luxury, belonged to a rich Frank. This
gentleman, whose name through courtesy I sup-
press, was not, in spite of our character for
eccentricities, an Englishman. He has entirely
adopted Turkish manners, even to public atten-
dance at the mosques ; though his friends well
know that in these observances there is more
hypocrisy than faith, as he makes no scruple
in expressing opinions totally at variance with
the tenets of the Koran. His immense wealth
enables him to live in great splendour, and, being
of a generous disposition, he frequently gives
superb entertainments; but since the attempt

1 74 CONSTANTINOPLE.

of the traveller, P. P , to rob him of one of

. his fair flock, he has become shy of the society of
Franks in general, and now seldom invites any
persons to visit him except Turks.

The first time I was introduced into his harem,
or, properly speaking, reception-salon, I found
him, as the weather was extremely warm, re-
clining on a divan, attended by his women, who
were vying with each other in endeavouring to
win his approbation.* One was perfuming his
beard with otto of roses, another fanning away
the flies, and a third with her soft hands sham-
pooed his feet ; her^ a beautiful Circassian was
performing on a sort of lute, there another dis-
played her graceful form in the voluptuous
mazes of the dance ; while several sat embroi-
dering at a distance, and lastly, a bold-looking
Georgian, who by her confident airs and great
beauty seemed conscious of being the favourite,
exhibited her well-turned arms as she reclined
on a Persian carpet, and enjoyed, apparently
with much gusto, her tchibouque.

The most aromatic perfumes were burning in
the apartment ; and the murmuring of the water
from a marble fountain in the centre was at once
calculated to cool and refresh the air, lull the
indolent to sleep, and supply the vacant mind

* See vignette in the title page.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 75

with thought. In short, every aid was resorted
to that could in any way pander to the senses.
The room opened into a garden filled with
flowers, costly carpets covered the floor, and
cushions of purple velvet, embroidered in gold,
the divan ; the ceiling was painted in fresco, and
the panels inlaid with mother of pearl or look-
ing-glasses. The women, who were generally
lovely, appeared ^ay and happy : and in order,
I suppose, that his selection should be perfectly
Turkish, they were beautifully fat ! Their dresses
were superb and becoming, the colours well
blended though gaudy ; and their hair, which
was ornamented with pearls and precious stones,
either fell in long plaits to the waist, or was
confined by embroidered gauze.

This enervating indolence and intoxicating
luxury, however congenial they may be to some
minds, are disgusting to a reflecting man, who
considers that life was bestowed for better pur-
poses than to be consumed in unprofitable idle-
ness and degrading sensuality.

I have purposely given you a lengthened
account of this harem, its appointments being in
a style similar to those of every other, the only
difierence consisting in the magnificence of the
decorations and the number of the inmates. The
confinement of the women, and the restraints

176 CONSTANTINOPLE.

imposed upon them, are not so irksome as you
would imagine : and even these are becoming
every day less rigorous. Besides their prome-
nades to the valleys of the Sweet Waters in
Europe and Asia, and frequent visits to their
friends, we see them riding in their gilded cars,
sailing on the Bosphorus in their elegant caiks
or the magnificent kachamboj (a sort of barge,)
whilst whole days are passed in the luxury of the
bath, — the terrestrial paradise of every oriental
woman. Here they breakfast, dine, sup, or ea^
confectionaries.

Notwithstanding all that travellers say to the
contrary, when reprobating the usages and cus-
toms of the Turks with respect to the confine-
ment of their women, perhaps they are hap-
pier than we expect ; for let it be remembered
their intellect is never educated, and they are
utterly ignorant of any other mode of living.
The inhabitants of most countries, I believe,
adapt their manners and customs to the climate
and other circumstances; consequently, for aught
we know to the contrary, it may have been found
necessary to resort to restraint with the women of
the East. Most certain it is, they are exceedingly
circumspect in their conduct, for the detection
of a single imprudent act leads to the introduc-
tion of the hakkim, who administers a sleeping

CONSTANTINOPLE. 177

potion ; or to that of the euaucb, who consigns
the frail fair one to the bottom of the Bosphorus
in a sack.

One of the greatest foibles in the character of
the Turk is superstition ; we find it pervading
all classes, from the lowest peasant to the great
Padishah of all the Osmanlis himself; and though
we must give that monarch great credit for his
enlightened mind and good qualities, when com-
pared with his ignorant predecessors and be-
nighted subjects, yet in education Sultan Mah-
moud is still a Turk ; and perhaps in nothing
more so than that he retains near his person,
according to the custom of his ancestors, a muned-
jimbashi, (chief astrologer,) although the practice
is in direct opposition to the Koran, which de-
nounces astrology as a crime only inferior to
idolatry.

It is however to be hoped, that even this relic
of the dark ages will soon be dispensed with by a
man who has shown such a predilection for the
society of the learned of every country ; and so
great an anxiety to enlighten the minds of his
people, and to raise them to a level with European
intelligence.

Amulets are still worn by every true Osmanli.
The priests and imans sell charms wholesale, — one
to keep out Schitan, (Satan ;) another to make

VOL. I. N

178 CONSTANTINOPLE.

a lady fat and fruitful ; and a third, above all,
to ward off the evil eye, which is always to be
dreaded in a stranger, particularly if he admires
the beauty of their wives and children. In
short, you cannot annoy a Turk more than to
speak in terms of commendation of anything
belonging to him.

The manufacture of the myriads of amulets
constitutes a most lucrative employment to
thousands of the Stambouli artisans, and their
sale a source of immense revenue to the priests
who consecrate them ; for the little safeguards
against evil are not only made in the form of
elegant trinkets for the higher classes, but we
find them, of a ruder fabrication, worn by the
whole population. Every house has one sus-
pended over the door; the shepherd ties them
around the horns of his flocks and herds; the
tradesman attaches them to the difierent articles
he sells, to preserve them from fire; and the
cavalier never ventures on horseback without
suspending one around the neck of his charger.

Notwithstanding all this, after perusing the
accounts of Turkey and its inhabitants, written
even within the last few years, the traveller, upon
visiting Stamboul, cannot but be forcibly struck
with the decided decrease of superstition, but
more particularly of fanaticism, among the peo-

CONSTANTINOPLE. 179

pie. Their increase of charitable feeling towards
the Giaour, is no doubt referable, partly to the
humiliating defeats they sustained by Christian
prowess, the battle of Navarino, and the im-
portant advantages obtained by the Russians ;
and partly, perhaps I ought to say principally,
to steam navigation. This, by attracting a con-
course of strangers to the capital, has had the
effect of tearing the veil of prejudice from their
eyes, and of convincing them that the customs,
manners, and character of the Giaours are not so
revolting as their traditions have represented.

Of their toleration and courtesy I can from
experience speak confidently, for I repeatedly
wandered alone through the streets of Stamboul
and the environs, entered their coffee-houses,
regaled myself in their restaurateurs, attended
the military parade, &c. ; and so far from meet-
ing with molestation, I was invariably greeted
with civility, but more especially when they
learned I was an Ingliz. In short, except the
mosque, which is still sealed to the entrance of
the Christian, I feel assured that the traveller
may now, without apprehension, extend his
promenades as he pleases through the capital,
or in the environs, it being only among the
ignorant fanatic boors of the provinces that he
will meet with ill treatment.

N 2

180 CONSTANTINOPLE.

LETTER XVIII.

A FEW OBSERVATIONS UPON THE STATE OF THE TURKISH
EMPIRE — ITS RISE AND FALL — RUSSIAN VICTORIES EASILY
ACHIEVED TURKISH CHARACTER INTOXICATION INNO-
VATION OP THE SULTAN ON THE LAWS OP THE KORAN —
EFFECTS ON THE PEOPLE — THE KORAN — TURKISH OPINION
OF PROTESTANTISM — DEMORALISING TENDENCY OF THE
MAHOMETAN RELIGION — ITS INFLUENCE UPON A STRANGER.

Although Turkey, in her late contest with Rus-
sia, was made to drink deeply of the cup of bit-
terness ; and though, as an ancient and faithful
ally, we must sympathise in her reverses ; still,
in one point of view, we can scarcely regret her
adversity, since it has had the good effect of at
least partially dispelling the ignorant delusion
of her sons, which may ultimately, (at least the
philanthropist indulges in such a hope,) by
bringing them more in contact with the tactics
and civilisation of foreign nations, tend to ope-
rate their regeneration, excite their emulation,
and place their country in that position nature
intended it should occupy.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 181

Still, when we glance over the pages of the
history of this extraordinary people, their rise,
progress, and victories ; the glory, extent, and
magnificence of their once mighty empire, sub-
duing sovereign after sovereign, and threatening
with destruction even Christianity itself, we can
scarcely wonder at the panoply of self-admiration
in which they entrenched themselves ; the arro-
gant contempt with which they regarded all
those that differed from them in faith ; and the
belief, while fighting under the banners of the
prophet, that they were invincible.

Should, therefore, the light of civilisation and
intelligence dispel the mists of superstition, and
direct the energies of such a people into a proper
channel, may we not anticipate that they will be
able to prop up their decaying empire ; and that
a course is reserved, if not so brilliant as that
granted them in past ages, yet more enduring,
because consonant with the best interests of hu-
manity.

However marvellous may appear the rapid
aggrandisement of the empire of Mahomet, its
decline is no less wonderful ; for less than a cen-
tury has sufficed to strip the Osmanlis of all their
glory, and to wrest from them more than half
their conquests : a fearful lesson to governments
of the necessity of encouraging industry, and of

182 CONSTANTINOPLE.

discountenancing all effeminate vices that may
tend to sap the morality and energies of a
people.

The Mahomedan suicidally accelerated his own
decay : he conquered only for rapine, governed
only for extortion ; so that his sceptre became a
curse to every nation over which he ruled. Sated
with conquest and gorged with plunder, he sur-
rendered himself to debasing sloth and enervat-
ing indulgences ; and, unlike his noble ancestor,
who was brave in the field, faithful to his ruler,
and generous to his enemies, he now, like a cow-
ard, presents the cup of poison with a smile, and
murders with the oath of friendship on his lips.
Witness the wholesale massacres the Turkish
government has perpetrated, and the details of
private life which many travellers of unques-
tionable veracity have furnished, and which I
repeatedly heard confirmed by the Frank resi-
dents in Turkey.

But to resume our observations on the declen-
sion of the Turkish empire. When the mutations
of ages had passed away, while the children of
the Cross had gone on adding knowledge to
knowledge, discovery to discovery, improvement
to improvement, the sons of the Crescent re-
mained stationary ; and stationary they will
remain, so long as they adhere to their civil

CONSTANTINOPLE. 183

and religious institutions, which are not only of
a demoralising character, but peremptorily for-
bid every attempt at innovation.

It is entirely owing to this adherence to an-
cient usages, that we now find the Turkish empire
resembling an antiquated chamber ; which,
having been closed for centuries, is suddenly
exposed to the full glare of the noon -day sun.
But as yet, this light has only had the effect of
making the Turk stroke his beard with more
than usual animation, and exclaim in a louder
voice than ordinary, M ashallah ! Allah-Keirim !

A country exhausted by the extortion of cen-
turies, a depraved people governed by a succes-
sion of weak effeminate princes, abroad an army
disorganised for want of pay, at home the janis-
saries, a band of military ruffians, filling the
streets of the capital with scenes of revolutionary
violence, would be likely to fall an easy prey to
the fury of the invader. Hence we must deem
that the laurels of Russia were won without
difficulty, and her conquests over the undis-
ciplined armies of the Crescent achieved at
little cost.

However, we must concede that the Turkish
soldier, unenervated by the oriental vices of his
wealthier brethren, stillretains all the fiery valour
and fanatic zeal of his dauntless ancestors, and

184 CONSTANTINOPLE.

displayed, in defence of his country, prodigies
of heroism ; but having had the misfortune of
being led on by chiefs without talent or bra-
very, his courage availed him nothing against an
enemy whom, had he the advantages of the same
military education, he would have humbled to
the dust.

In addition to his other vices, the Turk has
added that of intoxication, not as a theriahi^
(opium-eater,) but as a votary of the vine-orowned
deity : even the ladies of the harem have disco-
vered that rosoglio is more piquant than sherbet.
During my promenades through the city, scarcely
a day passed that I did not see quite as many
drunken Turks about the streets as in any city of
Christendom ; and you have only to question the
Frank merchant, to learn the quantity of rum and
rakee consumed by the devout inhabitants of the
capital of Moslemism. These they drink openly;
for Mahomet, although so great a prophet, was
not able to anticipate the discovery of the West
Indies ; consequently, could not forbid the indul-
gence of this intoxicating nectar to his followers.
Indeed, it is notorious that the most exalted per-
sons in the empire have been recommended wine
for the benefit of tlieir health !

The present Sultan Mahmoud, through the
boldness of his reforms, in direct opposition to

CONSTANTINOPLE. 185

the tenets of Islamism, and which alone the fear-
less energy of his character enabled him to under-
take, has shaken the faith of the people in the
infallibility of the Koran to its foundation, and
completely subverted their belief in the tenet,
that no mortal could violate the laws of the pro-
phet with impunity, — laws which were written
by the hand of God before the foundation of
the world ! and .presented to the great Maho-
met himself, the chosen of heaven, by the angel
Gabriel !

We cannot, therefore, wonder that disbelief
in the divine origin of the Koran is rapidly in-
creasing ; nay, it is even whispered among the
elect, that the Sultan has of late years extended
a greater share of his countenance towards his
dejected Rayahs and the despised Giaours, than
was consistent with the vicegerent of the pro-
phet of the Lord ; and some of the Stambouli
Christians even venture to anticipate the pos-
sibility of their purer faith being, in some few
years hence, adopted instead of the errors of
Islamism.

Still, however we may condemn the degrading
tendency and puerile absurdities found in that
most luminous volume, which the Moslems call
a "blaze of inspiration,*' there is a great deal
that must command our admiration. For in-

186 CONSTANTINOPLE.

stance, the adoration of the one, indivisible,
eternal God, the simplicity of the rites, ceremo-
nies, and form of worship, consisting of diurnal
ablutions, public and private prayer, an annual
festival and fast. If we contrast this absence of
devotional pomp with the ever-recurring days of
abstinence and holidays of the Roman and
Greek churches, we must reluctantly acknow-
ledge that Islamism, with all its faults, has in
this respect the advantage.

Certain it is, that should the Turks at any fu-
ture period be won over to embrace the tenets
and conform to the observances of Christianity, it
will never be to these forms of our faith above
mentioned, abhorring as they do, with the bitterest
feelings of dislike, not only statues and pictures,
but the mediatorial prayers addressed to the
virgin and saints.

In corroboration of the opinions I have here
advanced, perhaps I may be permitted to mention,
that during the various discussions I have had
with my Turkish friends on religious subjects,
they repeatedly expressed their surprise that
Christianity contained any form of faith and
worship so denuded of the extraneous and ad-
ventitious aids adopted by the Greek and
Roman churches, as protestantism. And when I
explained that the essence of Christianity con-

CONSTANTINOPLE. 187

sisted in its simplicity, they openly and unhe-
sitatingly acknowledged for it their warmest ad«
miration.

May we not therefore infer, without being ac-
cused of entertaining visionary fancies, that if
prudent and rational measures were adopted, a
strong probability exists that this people might, in
process of time, be converted to protestant Chris-
tianity ; more especially as they regard whatever
emanates from England with strong feelings of
partiality.

How devoutly will this be wished by every re-
flecting man, who has sojourned even but a brief
space among the followers of Islamism ; for doc-
trines so futile and absurd, so calculated to pro-
mote sensuality and vice, can never form the code
of belief and morals, without gradually under-
mining the nobler impulses of our nature. In
short, the most eloquent satire upon the Maho-
metan religion, and the most striking exemplifi-
cation of the words of our Saviour, " a tree is
known by its fruits," is to be found in the cha-
racter of the Turk of the nineteenth century.

That the passing traveller should be led to
think favourably of Islamism, is very natural ;
for what can be more impressive than the solemn
call of the muezzin from the tops of the minarets
to prayer, which is repeated five times a day.

188 CONSTANTINOPLE.

Indeed it is impossible that the soul should not be
touched with devotion on hearing the sacred invi-
tation addressed, not only to the children of the
prophet, but the whole universe without limita-
tion. And how sublimely devotional is the

" Come to prayer ! come to prayer ! come to
the temple of salvation I Great God ! Great
God ! I attest that there is no God but God !
and Mahomet is the prophet of the Lord !"

How often did these words, uttered by a deep,
sonorous, musical voice, fall on my ear in the still
solitude of the morning, when, amidst the un-
broken silence, the call to prayer appeared like a
command from heaven ; and how often, in my en-
thusiasm of admiration for this beautiful observ-
ance, have I been won into momentary forgetful-
ness of the fallacy of Mahomet's creed, — a creed,
which the more we study, the more fully we are
convinced of its absurdity, and that it was formed
by the arch-deceiverforthepurpose of ministering
to his own selfish indulgences, and of facilitating
his meditated conquests. In addition to its other
evil consequences, no religion ever tended more
to debase man as an intellectual being ; the doc-
trine of fatalism being alone sufficient to benumb
mental energy. What activity, what enterprise,
can we expect from a man who considers himself
to be a mere passive puppet, and most piously

CONSTANTINOPLE. 189

believes that an endeavour to avert any threat-
ened calamity, however imminent the danger, is
a sin against heaven ?

Every religious mind must therefore rejoice
that Islamism is on the decline. May its fall be as
rapid as its rise t and the conviction must force
itself upon our minds, that a more than mortal
will guides even the temporal concerns of this
sublunary world ; more especially when we be-
hold the sudden, and to man inscrutable, reverses
that take place in the destinies of nations, whose
causes often elude the most laborious efforts of
a finite intellect to trace. Yet we know that
the chain of purposes is carried on by the un-
erring hand of the great Ruler of the Universe.

190 CONSTANTINOPLE.

LETTER XIX.

MOUNT BULGURLU — SPLENDID PROSPECT — REFLECTIONS —

TURKISH ILLUMINATIONS SERAGLIO — MILITARY SCHOOL

CADETS YOUNO KABARDIAN — RUSSIAN TRIUMPH.

Before leaving Constantinople^ I once more as-
cended Mount Bulgurlu, to the beautiful chiosk
of the Sultan ; and however much we may admire
the scenery, while wandering in the environs of
this most picturesque capital, it is assuredly from
that spot we can best appreciate its splendour.

Bulgurlu is scarcely two English miles from
the superb Scutari, and is not difficult of access,
donkeys and ponies being always in attendance for
the accommodation of the traveller. How often,
from that elevated situation, have I watched the
rising and setting sun, as it poured its golden
light over a landscape replete with every charm
which could enter the imagination of a poet or an
artist, — a landscape which memory will ever recal
as the ideal of beauty, and which is, I believe,
universally conceded by all travellers, possessed
either of taste or feeling, to be one of the finest

CONSTANTINOPLE. 191

in the world, whether we regard the materials
composing it, or their felicitous combinations.

When tired of viewing the majestic panorama
of Stamboul, its suburbs, and the glassy bay of
the Golden Horn, we have only to look a little
to the left, and gaze with delight upon the sea of
Marmora, tranquilly sleeping like an immense
lake ; over whose shelving banks rises the lofty
range of the snow-crowned Olympus, the council -
chamber of Homer's conclave of the gods. Nor
are these the only imposing features in this vast
amphitheatre ; for, by turning to the right from
the sublime scenery of Asia Minor, you have the
less grand but infinitely more lovely Bosphorus,
winding its way like a stately river to the distant
Euxine, through a succession of pictures made
up of every object that can captivate the senses.

Perhaps you may think I have dwelt too much
at length on the enchantments of this highly-
favoured land ; and yet I assure you I have re-
strained my raptures, lest you might accuse me of
revelling too luxuriantly in scenic description ;
but with such a prospect, such a country, it is
scarcely possible to control my language within
the bounds of admiration. However, I may surely
apologise by saying, that it would be an unpar-
donable omission were I to quit this lovely land
without a few remarks on its scenery, which may

1 92 CONSTANTINOPLE.

convey to the uutravelled reader some idea of
the external aspect of a country daily becoming
more interesting from its situation and political
relations.

While indulging in the contemplation of this
glorious country, the theatre of so many impor-
tant historical events, my mind recurred to
scenes long since buried beneath the dust of
ages. I thought of the ancient inhabitants of
the capital of an empire, that could contend in
arms with mighty Rome herself; of the Cartha-
ginian chief, a solitary wanderer upon these
shores ; of the various powerful governments that
have here held dominion — the Greeks, the Ro-
mans, and the Moslemins : I then mentally
reverted to Sultan Mahmoud, his reforms, and
endeavours to prop up his falling empire.

Here the warlike sons of ancient Rome, after
wading through oceans of blood, planted their in-
vincible eagle. But where are the magnificent
amphitheatres of this daughter of imperial Rome ?
where are the triumphal arches — monuments of
their numerous victories, the colossal Termes,
splendid forum, innumerable statues, &c. ? All
have long since passed away : not a vestige re-
mains even to tell of their existence.

We then see the pastoral tribes of Arabia, a
hardy race, traverse the mountains of the Cauca-

CONSTANTINOPLE. 193

sns, with their flocks and herds, under tlieir patri-
archal chief the virtuous Osman, subduing town
after town, country aftef country, and finally
planting the Crescent on the ruins of the Cross,
and trampling in the dust the last descendant of
the conquerors of the world. They have also
degenerated beneath the enervating influence of
this luxuriant land, which, like a beautiful cour-
tesan, first captivates, and then destroys her vic-
tim. A country so happy in its situation, so fortu-
nate in its climate, that it might serve for the
residence of the gods, is yet, of every other
upon the face of the globe, the most fatal to its
possessors.

The last evening I visited Bulgurlu happened
to be that of the grand Mahometan festival,
Courhann Bairem ; and, on my return, I was
agreeably surprised to find the entire city, with
its suburbs, brilliantly illuminated. Imagine
the magical effect of festoons of many-coloured
lamps suspended between the lofty minarets,
around the numerous mosques, and decorating
the different public edifices of the town ; which,
rising like an amphitheatre above each other,
presented one blaze of undulating light, the
whole beautifully mirrored in the crystal bosom
of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn.

In addition to this, thousands of vessels in the

VOL. I. o

194 CONSTANTINOPLE.

harbour were lighted up, which, together with
the roaring of the cannon, the number of cdiis
darting to and fro, the shouts of the boatmen,
and a cloudless sky glittering with myriads of
stars, completed a picture which no capital in
the world could parallel. It is true, I have
repeatedly beheld illuminations in our own me- .
tropolis infinitely more magnificent : but it was
th^ peculiar locality of Stamboul, the novel
architecture of its edifices, the bright and glori-
ous sky, which imparted to it the semblance of a
creation that had risen into being beneath the
wand of the enchanter.

The next day, my kind friend the editor of
the Moniteur Ottoman accompanied me to the
seraglio, the entr£ to which is considered a great
favour. Here I had the pleasure of meeting

with our intelligent countryman Dr. M , one

of the medical attendants of the Sultan. After
passing through a few apartments, which do not
offer a single object worthy of notice, I made a
promenade in the gardens ; badly laid out, and
still worse kept, presenting nothing to admire,
save a few cypresses and plane trees.

Here we were met by Achmet Pacha, who
most courteously conducted us into an apart-
ment splendidly furnished, in which the Euro-
pean and Oriental styles were blended with great
taste. We were served with cofiee, sherbet.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 195

and some very excellent confectionary : but
as I have before given you an account of this
description of oriental entertainment in my inter-
view with the Pacha of the Dardanelles, I have
here nothing to add, except thst this was quite
as ceremonious, and more magnificent. The
tchibouque of course followed ; and as I looked
out upon the Bosphorus, and listened to the
Sultan's fine band of military music in the court-
yard, I must confess that I never smoked a pipe
under more agreeable circumstances.

After taking leave of our kind host, we passed
on to the military school, situated in the third
court, where the Osmanli cadets are educated in
European tactics by Frank instructors, principally
natives of Italy. Here I found everything indi-
cated order, cleanliness, and good management ;
and as some of the youthis were exercising, I was
much pleased with the celerity and precision of
their movements.

One of the Frank instructors pointed out a
young Kabardian,* whose dexterity in gymnase,
archery, and all kinds of military exercises, he
highly extolled ; adding, that he generally bore

* I should not have alluded to the young Kabardian, if it
were not that he has already left Stamboul for the land of
his fathers, and is consequently beyond the reach of Russian
persecution.

O 2

196 CONSTANTINOPLE.

off the prize from his young competitors. He
is a fine youth, the son of a chieftain in the
province of Kabardia, in the Caucasus, and a
great favourite with the Sultan, who, notwith-
standing his advanced age, equals the athletic
mountaineer in the strength and vigour with
which he draws a bow.

While conversing with the young Highlander
upon the present state of his country, I was sur-
prised at the enthusiastic tone of feeling he exhi-
bited. His attachment to the land of his ances-
tors was unbounded ; and his glowing description
of the picturesque beauty of the country, the hos-
pitality and friendly disposition of the inhabitants,
increased the desire I had for some time enter-
tained of visiting that most romantic of all coun-
tries — Circassia.

I was astonished at his eloquence, when expa-
tiating upon the aggressive and unjust invasion
of his country by Russia; and he exhibited all
the fire of enthusiasm, as he anticipated the day
when he should be at liberty to draw his sword
in defence of the land of his ancestors ; and, like
all mountaineers, spoke with passionate fondness
of his native hills.

His elegant manners, frankness, and, above all,
intelligent conversation, for a youth of such limit-
ed opportunities of acquiring knowledge, entirely
dissipated every fear I might have entertained as

CONSTANTINOPLE. 197

•

to venturing among the inhabitants of a country
usually supposed to be little better than barba- \
rians. On learning my intention^ he gave me ^
an amulet, assuring me that, on presenting it to
his father, I should be received as a friend ; also,
on my arrival in the country, that the mention of
his father's name to his compatriots would insure
my safety in every part of the country through
which I might travel. To the facilities thus so
unexpectedly afforded, it was chiefly owing that I
abandoned my intended tour through Hungary,
and now decided, if f>ossible, to explore the coun-
tries of the Caucasus.

' On leaving the military school, we found the
Sultan, with a numerous cortege of officers, in the
court-yard ; together with the Russian ambassa-
dor, M. Bouteneff, accompanied by Madame
Nariskin and several Russians of high rank^ who
had lately arrived to see '* the lions of Stamboul."
This was indeed a proud day for Russia ; as the
great Padishah of all the Osmanlis himself de-
scended from his high dignity, and, in opposition
to established custom, publicly paid his respects to
the Giaour lady, expressing his hope, through the
medium of a dragoman, that she had found every-
thing in the capital agreeable to her wishes ; and
concluded by saying, that he trusted she would
present his regards to the emperor, his most
faithful ally !

198 CONSTANTINOPLE.

LETTER XX.

TURKISH MILITARY — SULTAN MAMMOUD — HIS ACTIVITY —
PASSION FOR MILITARY EXBRCISBS — THE YOUNG TURK-
ISH PRINCES — THEIR EDUCATION — THE REFORMS OF THE
SULTAN— DIFFICULTIES OF HIS SITUATION..1-RUSSIAN PRO-
TECTION — ^ENFEEBLED STATE OF THE TURKISH EMPIRE

— ADVANTAGES OF TURKISH COMMERCE TO ENGLAND.

•

Perhaps one of the most interesting among Sul-
tan Mahmoud's plans for improving and civilising
his people, is that of disciplining his army on the
European system. Habited in his European uni-
form, he is to be seen day after day, like Peter
of Russia or Frederick the Great, drilling and
manoeuvring his troops^ being perfectly con-
scious that it is only by a well-organised army
the integrity of his empire can be maintained.
Comfortable barracks are built for them ; they
receive regular pay and rations ; consequently
are no longer the marauding bandits who preyed
upon their fellow-citizens for subsistence only a
few years since.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 199

The men perform their evolutions with tolera^
ble precision, particularly when we consider the
want of good officers, more especially subalterns
and non-commissioned officers* As to the Sultan
himself, I have frequently seen him manoeuvre a
squadron of horse with as much skill as one of
our own most accomplished cavalry officers. He
is equally admirable as an equestrian ; hence it
is, when riding ^ VEuropSenne, that he appears
to the greatest advantage, his whole style and
bearing bein^ that of a soldier.

His personal appearance is also in his favour :
his full jet-black beard and curling mustachios
impart decision and boldness to a countenance
still handsome ; his eye is large and serious, with
the oriental arched eyebrow, which, together with
the proud expression of his mouth and general ,
dignified demeanour, realises the idea of the man
in whose veins runs the noblest blood of Asia —
the monarch of the nation who planted the Cres-
cent in Europe. Although from his age he may
be said to be already verging towards the decline
of life, his countenance still glows with health,
which he owes to his passion for military exer-
cises and constant exposure to the open air.

How different from the triste expression and
efieminate appearance which distinguished him
in early life, and indeed that of his ancestors for

200 CONSTANTINOPLE.

centuries ; who, enervated by the debasing vices
of the seraglio, and living in hourly dread of
being massacred by a band of lawless ruffians,
more resembling criminals doomed to destruction
than the monarchs of a mighty empire : whereas
their more fortunate descendant now gallops
through the streets of Stamboul, or glides in his
splendid kachamha over the Bosphorus, with as
little danger of falling by the hand of the assassin
as the most popular monarch of civilised Europe.
The Sultan, during his excursions, is fre-
quently accompanied by his two sons, fine-spi-
rited young men, who are trained to every
manly athletic exercise calculated to give energy
and activity to the frame ; nor is the culture of
their minds less diligently attended to, their
education being superintended by men eminent
for their talents and learning. They have also
an enlightened preceptor in their father, who is
a member of the republic of letters, and has
composed some fine martial music : with such
aids we may confidently predict that the future
monarch of Turkey, unless some unforeseen
event should intervene, will tread in the foot-
steps of his reforming predecessor. In order
still more to expand the minds and increase the
knowledge of the young princes, it is even con-
templated to add the advantage of foreign

CONSTANTINOPLE. 20 1

travel ; and, under the protection of their august
parent, it is intended, this or the following year,
that they shall visit the Grecian islands in the
Archipelago. This infringement of the laws of
the Koran shows a strong determination on the
part of Mahmoud to emancipate himself from its
trammels, the code of the Prophet expressly for-
bidding the monarchs of Turkey, or any member
of the imperial family, to quit the empire, except
for the purpose of exterminating the infidels
with fire and sword.

Thus, in open violation of this command, we
shall in all probability, at no distant period, see
the heir to the throne of the Crescent travelling
in Europe, and even visiting London. I assure
you this is no common rumour, and how much
is it to be desired ! The young prince will thus,
indeed, have an opportunity of laying up a store
of useful knowledge wherewith to enlighten his
benighted people.

Must we not then concede, that the illustrious
chief who now wields the destinies of this much-
fallen empire is a man of no common mind ? and
that if he is spared to his country only a few years
longer, and permitted by the fanatic priest to
continue his career of reform, Turkey may yet
be regenerated ? And assuredly the wisdom and
good feeling exhibited in the evening of his reign.

202 CONSTANTINOPLE.

ivill shed a light over the darker shades that
clouded his early days. If we review his political
life with any degree of severity, we must reluc-
tantly confess that his character is stained by
many acts which truth will oblige the historian
to stigmatise, not only as tyrannical, but cruel.
However, in private life, it is universally admit-
ted that he is a sincere friend, an affectionate
father, and a kind master; and when we take into
account the difficulties of his position, his imper-
fect education, and the character of the people
over whom he reigns, we shall feel inclined to
make many allowances in his favour.

Sultan Mahmoud has had, indeed, serious ob-
stacles to contend with, powerful enemies to over-
come; the destruction of the Janissaries will alone
hand down his name to the latest posterity, and
the numerous reforms he has effected in the in-
stitutions of his country will for ever entitle him
to her gratitude. He has found means com-
pletely to curb the ambition and rapacity of the
Pachas : previous to the restrictions he imposed
upon them, the power they wielded was nearly
absolute, extending even to life and death.
Bribery is now denounced, extortion and vio-
lence punished with the severest rigour, and in
the courts of justice, formerly so corrupt, a bet-
ter system of administration has been established.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 203

Laws have been enacted, insuring the regular
descent of hereditary property ; and a noble
example of disinterested regard to justice has
been set by the monarch himself, who has for ever
waived the right of the crown to the property
of its deceased ministers and Pachas, formerly
grasped with eagerness by the reigning Sultans,
— a source from which emanated many revolting
crimes. By the imposition of a regular tax, the
degraded rayah, the citizen, shopkeeper^ and
agriculturist, are no longer exposed to the rapa-
city of hordes of extortioners in authority.

In addition to these, there is now a printing-
press in Stamboul, which furnishes a newspaper
and books for the intellectual wants of the people.
Military schools have been established, national
guards formed ; and it is to be hoped that the
institution of a regular disciplined army will have
the eJBPect of suppressing revolution at home, and
of exciting awe and respect in the enemies of
Turkey abroad.

Still there is much to be done ; for although
the lawless band exist no more, whose atrocities
will long be remembered with horror, another
band more powerfiil remains to be subdued — the
priests. These, armed with the book of the Prophet
and the law, possessed of spiritual and temporal
power, of intelligence and cunning, interpose a

204 CONSTANTINOPLE.

serious obstacle to the work of the reforming
mooarch ; and until this gigantic mass of preju-
dice and superstition is dislocated, and their
exclusive privileges abrogated, the civilisation
of Turkey will be retarded.

But to return to the military, here called the
tacticoes. I cannot think that the Sultan has done
wisely in substituting for his army their present
unbecoming uniform instead of their ancient cos-
tume, so well adapted to the customs and manners
of the people.* The fSz is anything but an ap-
propriate head-dress, being an indifferent defence
against the inclemency of the weather or a sabre
cut ; and the curtailment of the wide Turkish
trowsers from their sufficing amplitude of propor-
tion, as worn by the Osmanlis of old, has had the
effect of displaying their bandy legs, a deformity
frequently met with among the inhabitants of the
East, and which very naturally results from the
position in which they sit. Assuredly they would
have made quite as good soldiers, if their more
elegant and national costume had been retained ;

* I understand from good authority that the Sultan, awa re
of the inappropriateness of the present uniform of his troops,
intends, after some little time, to restore the old Turkish
costume, the other having only been adopted for the pur-
pose of preparing his people to receive the more extensive
reforms he meditates in their manners and customs.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 205

whereas, in their present dress, they appear the
very ghosts of their fierce ancestors ; and those
men, who now appear to the eye of a European
military man an uncouth set of ragamuffins,
with legs and neck uncovered, and shuffling
papooshesy would, if habited in the ample folds
of the turban, loose robe confined by a crimson
shawl filled with pistols and poniard, be as mar-
tial and fine-looking fellows as ever followed the
standard of the Prophet.

Although the exertions of the Sultan have,
when we consider how short a space of time has
elapsed since he commenced his reforms, pro-
duced a striking effect on the military, the mass
of the people have not improved in the same
degree ; neither has their advancement kept
pace with the activity displayed by their enter-
prising ruler to regenerate them ; for, with the
exception of the youths in the military schools,
we rarely see any demonstrations of real national
enthusiasm. Sometimes, indeed, we find a few
daring spirits anxious to measure their swords
with the hated Muscov's ; but in general the
Turks of the present day are characterised by
apathy and indolence, frequently exhibiting an
attachment to effeminate vices, which render
them objects of contempt to a high-spirited
European. Whether we visit their fortifications.

206 CONSTANTINOPLE.

arsenals, or ships of war, we see the same torpid
neglect, the same want of energy. Nor is the
fine military teniLe and bold bearing of the troops
by any means calculated to strike terror into the
hearts of the enemies of Turkey. Besides the
general slovenly appearance of the men, and the
want of sufficient respect evinced by the privates
towards their superior officers, there is no atten-
tion whatever paid to dressing the lines, for we
often see the roost meagre man in the company
placed, as if for the purpose of looking ridiculous,
in juxtaposition with the most corptilent, and
a mere dwarf flanking a giant. However insig-
nificant these trifles may appear in detail, yet be
assured their eifect*upon the appearance of the
troops is anything but favourable ; and their in-
fluence upon the spectator accustomed to the
well-drilled troops of Europe, produces no other
feeling than contempt for an army composed of
such materials. But it is while marching that
the tacticoes look least soldier-like ; and I verily
believe that the best drillmaster in Eui*ope could
not completely wean an Osmanli from the in-
tolerable shuffle and strut so peculiar to that
people when in locomotion.

Notwithstanding the martial bearing of thetac-
tico is not calculated to command our admira-
tion, he is not without his good qualities as

CONSTANTINOPLE, 207

a soldier ; he is more patient in adversity, and
hardier in his habits, than the European ; and
his utter contempt for all the comforts of life
cannot be too highly prized. His bed, which is
composed of nothing better than a strip of carpet,
or a mat, with a coverlet made from camel or
goats* hair, serves him alike in the camp and in
the barrack; while one tremendotis caldron,
cooks pilaw sufficient for the wants of a whole
company. And when these are provided for him,
which formerly was not always the case, he is as
happy, and it may be happier, than the well-fed,
well-lodged soldier of Europe.

The want of a well-organised medical staff is
one of the most glaring deficiencies in the Turk-
ish army ; for the disciple of Mahomet, with all
his fatalism, his determination to oppose mis-
fortune with apathy, and pain with stoicism,
would certainly speedily become sensible of the
advantages of skilful medical treatment. That
it would be impossible to form an efficient
medical board from the natives is most certain,
and to resort entirely to foreigners would involve
many difficulties ; still it must be wished that
something effective could be attempted to relieve
the sufferings of the sick and wounded in the
next war in which the Turks may be engaged.

Nor is a medical staff the only desideratum of

203 CONSTANTINOPLE.

the Turkish army ; for the absence of a well-con-
ducted itat^major is also seriously felt ; a defect
which exposes it to all the evils resulting from
mismanagement and irregularity, — evils which
would be increased a hundredfold in time of war.
Of this the Sultan is well aware ; but, owing to the
ignorance and incapability of his agents, every
attempt he has hitherto made to remedy it has
failed. Again, the majority of the European
instructors of the army are men whose character
for military talent does not rank high; and as the
Sultan, notwithstanding his firmness, has yielded
to the solicitations of his people to be commanded
only by officers professing Islamism, the Turks
are not likely to make any very rapid progress in
the military tactics of Europe.

But this is not all : the protecting ally of the
Sultan fearing, I suppose, that the ward should
become too formidable for the guardian, never
fails to discover a thousand objections, grounded
on the real or supposed political opinions of
every man of acknowledged military talent who
has yet oflTered his services to the Turkish army.
It is true the Grand Seigneur sometimes assumes
a tone of independence, and we hear that the
influence of his most faithful cousin is on the
wane— that the counsels of England prevail ; the
drooping spirits of the patriots are raised, when

CONSTANTINOPLE. 209

Id \ the whole of the boasts of the Sultan's man-
liness evaporate at once before the simple nod
of the little man in his castle at Buyuk-dere.
How can it be otherwise ? The net of political
intrigue is drawn too closely round the help-
less victim to permit his escape : conscious of
his weakness, and so often deserted by those
whose interests are identified with his own, he
is obliged to yield, unless he would see anarchy
triumphant at home, and the enemy crossing his
frontier.

In my notices on the present state of the Turk-
ish empire, I regret that I cannot colour my
representations according to my wishes ; for not-
withstanding Sultan Mahmoud has effected
many important ameliorations in the social and
political state of his people, we must be of the
opinion, that unless he receives the most effectual
aid and judicious counsel from the great European
powers, interested from political motives in
maintaining the independence of the Ottoman
Porte, he will not be able, with all his patriotic
exertions, to protect his country from the in-
sidious designs of Russia; a power now more
to be feared than at any other period, since
she has assumed the title of Protector of Turkey ;
and how ominous of evil is that title, Krim-
Tartary, Georgia, Mingrelia, and the other ex-

VOL. I. p

210 CONSTANTINOPLE.

tensive countries on the Black Sea, can testify
by bitter experience ; for to them she also ex-
tended her protection till they became succes-
sively incorporated as fiefs of her mighty em-
pire.

The numerous hordes of Nogay Tartars, Kara-
Kaitack Tartars, Calmucks, and Kiimucks,
with a host of other wandering tribes of Tartars,
too insignificant to mention in their distinctive
appellations, and which inhabited the vast tracts
of Besserabia, the banks of the Kouban, the
Wolga, the Sea of Azow, the Caspian, and
the Black Sea, — now exist no more ! The No-
gay Tartars alone, under their last Sultan,
Battei-Gherai, numbered fifty thousand fighting
men, so late as the year 1780. The Tourgouth
Tartars, more sagacious than their short-sighted
brethren, in order to avoid the fate they saw
impending, emigrated to China with their flocks
and herds, to the amount of half a million of
men ! What a solemn warning should this be
to Sultan Mahmoud, and the Asiatic Princes
on the frontiers of Russia, and how cautious
should they be of relying on the faith, or the
promises, of a power that knows no satiety in its
territorial acquisitions! In all probability Po-
land, like Krim-Tartary, should no political event
frustrate the intention of the sovereigns of Russia,

CONSTANTINOPLE. 21 1

will, ere another half centary has passed over,
also become so completely amalgamated with the
empire of its iovadersi as to destroy every hope
of its re-erection into an independent monarchy.

But to return to the subject we are now
more immediately discussing, Turkey ; centuries
of despotism and barbarofis misrule have ope-
rated the effect that might have been antici-
pated — national feebleness. How then is it
possible that the exertions of one individual
however greats the energies of one man however
powerful, can immediately infuse vigour and
courage into its demoralised inhabitants ? We
have already seen the Sangiac-sheriff displayed
by the present Sultan without being responded
to by the wonted enthusiasm of the disciples of
Mahomet ; i^ then, the sacred standard has failed
in arousing the energies of the Turk of our day,
we fear that European tactics will also £etil in
making heroes of a people destitute of public
spirit.

Without adverting to the ruinous state of the
finances of the country, decay and wretchedness
unfortunately characterise the whole of this im-
mense empire, whether we wander in Europe
or Asia. Where, then, are her resources to defend
her independence, or carry on a protracted
struggle in case of a war with Russia ? We may

p 2

212 CONSTANTINOPLE.

therefore be assured that Turkey must eventually
succumb either to the open violence or crafty
arts of her wily enemy, unless she becomes
closely allied to some European power, who has
sufficient sagacity to defeat her intrigues, and
sufficient resources to defy her threats : and
what power, when we consider our Asiatic pos-
sessions, and the menacing attitude assumed
towards us by Russia, is more interested in main-
taining the independence of Turkey than Eng-
land herself?

Indeed, it is surprising how Sultan Mahmoud
has been able single-handed to procrastinate
the final fall of his empire even to the present
day, when we consider the loss of his fine fleet at
Navarino, and the numerous difficulties with
which he is beset : pressed on one side by the
demoralising influence of Russian intrigues, and
on the other by the open rebellion of the
viceroy of Egypt, Mehemet Ali. Besides all
this, there is hardly a Turk, rich or poor,
that does not lead a life of indolence owing to
the insecure tenure of property under former
rulers and the rapacity of a host of pachas and
governors of provinces. With a soil rich to ex-
uberance. Sultan Mahmoud is doomed to see his
subjects obliged to purchase grain from their
neighbours. With seas open at all hours, with

CONSTANTINOPLE. 2 1 3

ports protected from every wind of heaven,
where are his merchantmen, that nursery so
necessary to man his fleet in the event of war ?

In addition to this he must reluctantly wit-
ness the whole of the commerce, that ought to
enrich his own people, pass through the hands
of speculative foreigners, who cannot have any
patriotic feelings for a country in which they
are allowed, owing to the fanaticism and ex-
clusiveness of the disciples of Mahomet, so small
a share of interest ; remaining for ever, with
their descendants, strangers in the land which
gave them birth.

During the few years the olive branch has been
waving over this devoted empire, it must be
confessed that our trade has considerably in-
creased, but it is by no means equal to what it
ought to be when we consider the number of
British merchants resident in all the principal
trading towns ; the commercial enterprise of the
English nation in general; the population of
Turkey, its want of manufactures, and the facili-
ties it offers to commerce by means of the
number of seas, with their fine ports and
harbours, that abound in every part of the
country. With all these advantages, I cannot but
think that we have shown great supineness in
not availing ourselves of our position, weight,

2 1 4 CONSTANTINOPLE.

and influence, to form a commercial alliance*
with the Ottoman Porte ; for let it be remembered
that our trade with the Turkish Empire is ex-
tremely profitable, subjected to little or no
obstruction, entirely carried on in our own ships,
and it must be conceded that in no part of the
woiid is the trader, or even the traveller, exposed
to fewer inconveniences.

Independently of any selfish considerations, a
more extensive commerce would produce most
beneficial effects upon the character and indus-
try of the Turkish people ; and if a reciprocal
feeling of good-will were encouraged, it would
probably be highly instrumental in working the
salvation of the much-debased empire of the
Ottoman. The Turks would then, assured of
the support at least of one of the great christian

* Since these volumes have appeared, a[coniinercia] alliance,
highly favourable to England, has been concluded with
the Ottoman Porte, which reflects the highest credit upon
our government, and upon the diplomatic talent of Lord
Ponsonby, our ambassador at Constantinople. A commer-
cial alliance which, it is to be hoped, will have the effect of
counteracting the designs of Russia on the independence
of Turkey, of civilising the inhabitants, and of reviving
the kindly feeling with which the Turks have ever regarded
their ancient, may I not add, their natural ally, England. In-
deed the activity recently displayed by her Majesty's minister
of foreign affairs in every subject relating to the East, the

CONSTANTINOPLE . 215

powers^ be aroused from the listless apathy
into which they have fallen, and again become,
as of old, the fierce defenders of their country,
and the resistless enemy of that only European
power that seeks to rob^ them of their indepen-
dence.

remonstrances addressed by Mr. M*Neil, our envoy to the
Schahof Persia, respecting Herat, the movement of British
troops towards the frontier of Persia, the junction of the
Ottoman and English fleets last summer in the Turkish
Seas, together with the late commercial treaties entered
into with Austria, seem to warrant the hope that no means
will be left untried to arrest the aggression of Russia, and
thereby defeat the plans of an insidious enemy, who has been
long secretly endeavouring to undermine our power and
prosperity in every part of the world.

216 DEPARTURE FOR ODESSA.

LETTER XXI.

DEPARTURE FOR ODESSA — THE BOSPHORUS — STEAM-BOAT—
PASSEl^GERS — KARAITE JEWS — SERPENTS* ISLAND LE-
GENDS CONNECTED WITH IT — ARRIVAL AT ODESSA — LORD
DURHAM— HIS SILENT RECEPTION AT ODESSA INDIGNA-
TION — LAZARETTO — RUSSIAN DINNER — ITALIAN OPERA

SIGNOR MARINI— HOTEL DB RICHELIEU.

It has been already said, and with truth, that
travellers are the slaves of circumstances. As for
myself, I must confess that I have rarely found
my route to correspond with my original inten-
tions : and now, having received an invitation
to visit South Russia, before my departure for
Circassia, I am about to avail myself of the steam-
boat conveyance to Odessa, Therefore I must,
for the present, terminate my sketches of Stam-
boul and the Osmanlis.

I hope, however, on my return, to be able to
give you more interesting details ; as I shall then
have extended my tour over a larger portion of
the Turkish empire, become more familiar with
the inhabitants, and better enabled to contrast

THE BOSPHORUS. 217

the actual state and resources of the country
with that of its ambitious neighbour : unless,
indeed, I should be detained as a slave ; or, as
my Russian friends prophesy, roasted as a deli-
cate morsel in honour of some grand national
festival !

The evening I left Stamboul, the weather was
remarkable for its loveliness ; and as our vessel
wound her way to the Euxine, through the Bos-
phorus, the unruffled surface of that beaiMiful
channel reflected the whole firmament, and gave
back in softened tints the ever-varying colours
of the departing sun, which still glowed in the
west. Not a cloud darkened the heavens, and
every breath of the light, balmy air, seemed to
fan creation to repose ; and I do not think I ever
experienced, in a greater degree, that peculiar
buoyancy which this delightful climate inspires :
It seemed to impart health to the pulse, and
elasticity to the spirit.

My voyage was, indeed, most agreeable ; for,
with the exception of a slight thunder-storm, the
weather continued uninterruptedly fine till we
arrived at Odessa.* The captain of the steamer
was an Englishman, of the name of Covey, which
surprised me the more, for his vessel (Russian

* The fare, from Constantinople to Odessa, is a hundred
and fifty paper roubles.

218 PASSENGERS IN THE STEAM-BOAT.

built,) nvas by no means kept in that neat order
and regularity which usually characterise our
compatriots at home and abroad. He, however,
excused himself by saying, that it was impossible
to preserve order in a vessel manned by Rus-
sians, whom he represented as lazy, stupid, and
obstinate.

On descending into the cabin, I found the
Russian ambassador, M. Bouteneff, and a large
party of Russian nobles with their families. His
excellency — however much he may be opposed
to English interests, in private life^ is an amiable
and excellent man, did not accompany us
any farther than his country seat at Buyukdere,
on the Bosphorus. There was also Madame
Nariskin, and her suite, a nephew of General
Nariskin, and their medical attendant, M. Titus
Vanzetti, an intelligent young man, an Italian,
and author of several clever professional works :
and I was not more pleased than astonished to
behold among the passengers, my old compagnon
de voyage^ the Hungarian nobleman, from whose
originality of character I was certain to derive
much amusement. He was now, notwithstanding
his late hydrophobical horror of water, again
about to resign himself to the protection of the
naiads, his fears of the plague, which had just
made its appearance in Constantinople, being

KARAITE JEWS. 219

greater than hi8 dread of shipwreck ; as, in his
haste to escape, he could not even wait a few
days for the return of the Danube steam-boat,
but took the more circuitous route of returning
home by Odessa.

Upon the whole, I was much pleased with the
appearance of my companions, and flattered my-
self with the hope of a pleasant voyage, in which
I was not disappointed. There were, besides, a
variety of other characters that emerged from the
second cabin, a motley tribe enough of Greeks,
Jews, and Armenian traders; all more or less
interesting, from their habits and manners, to a
stranger.

I was particularly struck with a gaunt, ill-fa-
voured-looking Karaite Jew, and his wife, a
very pretty woman, apparently not more than
sixteen, the magnificence of whose attire would
have done honour to a Sultana. Yet, though
the lady's dress was valued by my fellow-pas-
sengers to at least three or four thousand rou-
bles, still, in singular contrast with this exter-
nal splendour, she and her husband lived on the
contents of a basket they brought with them,
consisting of the plainest food, and appeared total
strangers to everything like domestic comfort.
In order to avoid the trifling expense of a berth
in the second cabin, they slept during the night

220 serpents' island.

on a pallet, exposed to the dews of heaven ; and
amused themselves by day with occasionally dis->
encumbering their persons of certain little creep-
ing plagues, whose name out of respect to my
fair readers I forbear to mention.

I cannot, however, part from the dark -eyed Jew-
ess without giving you a description of her dress,
the possession of which would have made the hearts
of many of the daughters of Eve dance with joy.
We shall commence with her head-dress, com-
posed of a sort of turban embroidered with gold,
from which a chain of pearls was suspended across
her forehead, that nearly touched her eyebrows.
A purple velvet jacket, over a white silk dress,
embroidered with gold, enveloped her form ; and
a massive gold chain, of the most exquisite work-
manship, several times encircled her neck ; while
bracelets of the same material, enriched with
precious stones; superb earrings, and a multitude
of rings on her fingers^ completed her costume,
and showed that her husband, at least, did not
regard expense in adorning his pretty little cara
sposa.

When within six or seven hours' voyage of
Odessa, we fell in with the current of the Da-
nube, and immediately after passed Serpents'
Island, the only one in the Black Sea ; from the
view we obtained, it appeared about an English
mile and a half long, and principally composed

serpents' island. 221

of barren cliffs with little or no vegetation, which
form a secure retreat for great numbers of sea-
birds, and no doubt originated its ancient name,
Leuce (white island).

It appears to have been an object of great
interest to the ancients. Some affirm it was
sacred to Achilles, and given him by Thetis;
at all events, it contained his statue, and a tem-
ple dedicated to his worship. Pindar called it
the '* Conspicuous Island :" Euripides, *' the
White Shores of Achilles :" while Strabon and
Arrien described it as Leuce, the "White Is-
land," which name it still retains, in conjunction
with its modem appellation, ^' Serpents' Island."
Various absurd reports and traditions are current
among the Greek, Russian, and Turkish mariners
that navigate this sea ; the most generally cre-
dited being, that it is infested by supernatural
serpents of enormous size, which keep guard over
boundless treasures, and devour every human
being who has the temerity to land. Strange to
say, we find in the Records of Ammianus Mar-
cellinus, that a similar belief existed even in his
days.

So firmly, indeed, is this superstitious opinion
impressed upon the mariners of the Black Sea at
the present time, that not a single man belong-
ing to the crew of any ship would venture to

222 serpents' island.

trust his safety to the mercy of the hissing inha-
bitants of " Serpents' Island."

As a land-mark, the island is of great service
to the mariner, in consequence of the fogs which
frequently hang over this part of the Black Sea,
and the lowness of the coasts about the mouths
of the Danube. Even when the atmosphere is
hazy, the friendly snow-white plumage of the
birds, which continually hover around, proclaims
its vicinity : hence its original name Leuce,
(white island,) appears peculiarly appropriate.

At the expiration of fifty hours, we arrived at
Odessa, which at first sight somewhat reminded
me of Brighton. The fine range of noble build-
ings on the cliffs, including the palace of the
governor, resembled the Marine Parade: nor
was the likeness diminished by the total absence
of foliage ; for the miserable acacias on the Boule-
vards, the only trees, by-the-bye, that flourish
in this inhospitable soil, are not sufficient to
relieve the white glare of the buildings.

I had now to undergo the tedium of fourteen
days' quarantine ; but being favoured with the
society of several friends, I passed my time as
agreeably as my temporary confinement would
admit, for owing to the frequent visits Odessa has
had from the plague, the quarantine regulations
are severely enforced. Nor were they relaxed

QUARANTINE. 223

even in favour of Lord Durham, who passed
through this town, on his route to St. Petersburg,
some time previous to my arrival.

His lordship's visit, however, had the effect
of sadly discomposing the authorities, and afford-
ing subject matter of conversation to the quiet
people of Odessa for months ; for when the
vessel arrived in the port with our well-known
red-cross banner, she fired the usual salute, an-
nouncing that the representative of Great Britain
was on board ; when lo 1 the guns of the fort were
silent : the salute was repeated ; still the same
portentous silence. Even our consul-general
was silent : for the very good reason, he hap-
pened to be absent. Here was dishonour to the
flag of the greatest nation in the world ! His
lordship stormed, the captain stamped with rage ;
even the least choleric among the officers thought
the conduct of the Russians extraordinary.

What could be the reason ? was echoed by all
on board. Perhaps the insult was personal ;
perhaps his lordship, as chief of all the radicals,
was not a palatable representative to the chief of
all the despots.

At length, the officers of the quarantine made
their appearance, and not being prepared to offer
a satisfactory explanation, his lordship penned a
spirited remonstrance, not a little tinged with

224 QUARANTINE.

anger, to the governor-general ; in which the
insults and indignities he had received were
energetically and eloquently set forth.

The effect of the missive was electrical ; go-
vernor-general, commander of the forces, officers,
consul, vice-consul, all were in dismay, for they
knew to appease the ire of an angry man is not
an easy undertaking. However, on explaining
the real cause, namely, that it was against the
port regulations to give or return a salute later
than seven in the evening, (his lordship having
arrived after that hour,) the storm subsided, like
the clouds retiring from the face of the sun ; and
his majesty's representative most graciously con-
descended to receive every attention, courtesy,
and honour that could possibly be rendered by
the authorities to an ambassador. Indeed, no
disrespect could have been intended by the au-
thorities of Odessa ; for Lord Durham is, I under-
stand, a great favourite with the emperor and the
court of St. Petersburg.

The quarantine establishment is altogether
well conducted. The situation, on the summit of
a chain of small hills, is not only healthy but
pleasant, commanding as it does a fine view of the
sea, which here forms an extensive bay. The
different suites of apartments are so extensive, as
almost to form a little town ; each separate tene-

QUARANTINE. 225

ment has its small court planted with acacias :
besides this, we had a public promenade, a res-
taurant, and a conversation -room • So that you
see the Russian government have endeavoured
to render the confinement as little irksome as
detention can be to a traveller.

Still it must be observed, that the traveller
who arrives here unprovided with a bed and
other comforts, will find himself condemned to
experience many inconveniences ; unless he is, as
was my own case^ possessed of kind friends, who
supplied me with everything I could desire,
including what was indeed most welcome, — not
only the latest English periodical publications,
but some of the latest daily papers ; and I should
be wanting in common gratitude, were I not to ex-
press how deeply I feel indebted to Count Wor-
renzow, and General Leon and Madame Nariskin,
for their very friendly and polite attentions*

Having been engaged, on my emancipation
from my temporary confinement, to dine with
General Nariskin, I will give you the ceremonial
of a Russian dinner ; which after all differs in no
respect from our own, except that the gentlemen
do not sit after dinner to enjoy a little political
chit-chat over a bottle of wine ; and previous to
passing into the sails ct wxmger^ the company are
served with caviare, anchovy sandwiches, olives,

VOL. I. Q

226 ITALIAN OPERA.

and liqueur glasses of brandy, with the intention
of creating an appetite. The conversation was
generally carried on in French, for it appears
that the Russian language is not fashionable
among the high-born aristocrats of this country ;
and I could not help noticing the facility with
which many of the party spoke several European
languages. This aptitude as linguists, I have
always found to characterise the Russian people ;
and out of a large party now assembled, the
greater number addressed me in English, with
only a very slight foreign accent. You may,
therefore, easily imagine what an advantage this
accomplishment confers upon a Russian, when
engaged in affairs of diplomacy.

In the evening, I accompanied my host and
his family to the Italian Opera, // Furioso:
the character of the " maniac " was well per-
formed by Signer Marini, who would have done
honour to the theatre of a capital ; and the
elegance of the scenery, dresses, and decorations,
showed that the inhabitants of Odessa fully ap-
preciate the charms of the drama.

During the few days I remained in Odessa, I
took up my quarters at the Hotel de Richelieu,
an establishment for which the traveller is in-
debted to Count Worrenzow, who built and
furnished it at his own expense; it being the

HOTEL AT ODESSA. 227

custom in this country for travellers to carry with
them the whole of the articles necessary for the
table and couch, particularly the latter : conse-
quently, previous to this, strangers arriving in
Odessa were condemned to suffer much incon-
venience. I found the charges at the hotel
moderate, the attendants civil : the obliging po-
liteness of the French landlord apparent in every
trifling aet of courtesy ; and the cleimlitiess of his
wife, a native of Germany, visible throughout the
house.

a 2

INTBRIOB OP A TABTAB COTTAGE.

LETTER XXII.

STKAH-BOAT VOVAGB TO YALTA— ENGLISH MATE — FIBST AS-
PECT OP EBIH TABTABV DISAFPQINTMBNT — HONA9TKBY

OP ST. OEDBOE — 1TB GREAT ANTIQUITY — BALACLAVA

ALOOPXA — SCKNEBV VILLAS OF TUB BUSSIAN NOBtLtTY—

IHPKOVBD ASPECT OP THE COUNTBV — ABBIVAL AT YALTA.

It is very seldom, in this world of crosses and
disappoiDtments, that mortal maa finds cause to
be grateful to his planets ; but I certainly feel
bound formally to return thanks to mine, for con-
ducting me at this juncture to Odessa, as imme-
diately on my arrival, Count Worrenzow, gover-
nor-general of South Russia, invited me in the
most friendly manner to accompany him on a
coasting expedition round the Black Sea.

VOYAGE TO YALTA. 229

I took ray departure in the steam-boat, or, as it
is here called, . the joemcap, for Yalta in the
Crimea, the count having gone thither to make
arrangements for the voyage. The periscap is
a pretty little vessel, English built ; the mate and
engineer were also English, the former defcxto
the captain ; but being unacquainted with the
Russian language, the proprietors had given the
nominal command to a person, who had no other
qualification save that which the Englishman
wanted. Hence, their friendship was about as
ardent as that which may be supposed to exist
between the pet wife of a Turkish Effendi, who
calls herself mamma of half a dozen turbaned
cherubs, and the other dear pet who is denied
the privilege of having one.

So long, however, as this problematical friend-
ship was confined to words, or rather violent pan-
tomimic gestures, the passengers were not much
annoyed ; but when they proceeded to more ac-
tive demonstrations, we could have wished that
the duties and the name of captain had been con-
fided to the same person.

The majority of the passengers were Russian
noblemen, on their way to join the party of the
count on his coasting expedition, with a few of
the citizens of Odessa to take a summer's ramble
in the mountains of the Crimea ; that country be*

230 FIRST ASPECT OF KRIM TARTARY.

ing denominated, by the admirers of its scenery,
the Switzerland of South Russia.

The first aspect of the Crimea does not cor-
respond with the exaggerated description I had
received from my Russian friends ; who, accus-
tomed to the monotonous steppes that charac-
terise the greatest part of the Moscovite empire,
are in raptures at the very sight of a moun-
tain, and magnify these that skirt the south coast
of the peninsula into stupendous Alps, replete with
every feature that can constitute a landscape at
once sublime and picturesque. This is so far
from being the fact, that the scenery presents
nothing better than a range of lofty hills, com-
posed of black rock and volcanic-like peaks, de-
scending precipitously to the sea, with scarcely a
span of land between them and the water's edge,
exhibiting merely here and there a patch of under-
wood, intermingled with broad masses of burnt-
up scoria-like matter.

These characteristics are aggravated to the eye
of the traveller while coasting ; for then the few
trees look like shrubs, and the vaunted Alps dwin-
dle into low hills. Indeed, it is not till we arrive
at the convent dedicated to St. George, roman-
tically situated on the brow and summit of pro-
jecting and apparently inaccessible rocks, that the
landscape presents anything like a picturesque
object.

MONASTERY OF ST. GEORGE. 231

This monastery, still inhabited by a society of
monks of the Greek religion, is composed of a
pretty-looking church, refectory, and several de-
tached cottages with terraced gardens ; and if we
may credit the accounts generally received, is
deeply interesting to the historian and antiquarian,
for we are assured that it occupies the site of the
temple of Diana, the Orestea Dea of Ovid, and
the demon virgin of Strabon. This supposition
is founded upon the writings of Strabon and Hero-
dotus, and the monks pretend to have discovered
the pedestal that supported the golden statue of
the goddess, together with the identical rock upon
which the priestess Iphigenia, the daughter of Aga-
memnon, reposed, while meditating a favourable
moment to immolate her brother. This famous
temple is mentioned in the Iliad, which tells us
that all the unfortunate mariners shipwrecked on
the shores of this inhospitable country, were sacri-
ficed to the insatiable goddess.

Soon after passing the convent, we came in
sight of the fine bay and castellated heights of
Balaclava, now for the most part a heap of ruins.
This town was described by Strabon, when treat-
ing of the Taurica Chersonesus, as the Portus
Symbolorum, when it formed one of the prin-
cipal cities of the Heracleotic peninsula. On the
destruction of that independent state Balaclava

232 BALACLAVA.

remained in ruins till the establishment of the
Genoese in the Crimea, who, sensible of the value
of the bay as a port, rebuilt the town, fortified the
adjoining heights, and gave their new creation
the name of Bella-Clava, (the beautiful port,)
since corrupted to Balaclava. Under the rule of
the Genoese, one of the most enterprising and
commercial people of the middle ages, it again
enjoyed a long career of prosperity, until their
expulsion from the Crimea by the Turks, who
plundered the town and left it in ruins; and
thus it has remained till the present day.

This beautiful bay has the appearance of a
lovely river winding through the mountains^ being
about an English mile in length, and at its greatest
breadth not more than a quarter of a mile, and so
narrow at the entrance as scarcely to afford a pas-
sage for two moderate-sized vessels to pass abreast.
The anchorage is everywhere safe, with a depth
of water sufficient to receive the largest ships ;
while the surrounding hills afford a never-failing
protection against every wind, however violent.

Still, notwithstanding the bay of Balaclava
offers these very peculiar advantages, and is in
every respect so admirably calculated for a com-
mercial harbour, yet the entrance is not only
closed against foreign vessels, but even those
carrying the Russian flag : it being presumed

ALOUPKA. 233

by the long-headed minister at St. Petersburg,
that the position of the bay and the mountainous
character of the country afford facilities to illicit
traffic too tempting to be resisted ; and it was
only very recently that Count Worrenzow ob-
tained the sanction of the government to permit
vessels in stress of weather to seek here shelter
and safety. The measure was the more impera-
tive, as this part of the coast of the peninsula
presents a range of abrupt cliffs, most dangerous
to the mariner in tempestuous weather, and too
often fatal before the security of this haven was
afforded.

On approaching Aloupka, the scenery continued
to improve in beauty; nay, it might almost be
termed sublime. Rocks lay piled upon rocks in
chaotic disorder, over which rose in lofty gran-
deur the gigantic mountain Ai Petri, three thou-
sand five hundred feet above the level of the sea.
There was also a greater appearance of fertility
than I had previously witnessed : the whole space
between the towering cliffs and the sea, forming
a splendid panorama, presented one mass of the
richest foliage ; terraced vineyards adorned the
hills, mingling their lighter green with the dark
cold pine of the mountain ; while the miniature
valleys beneath glowed with the clustering cots
of the Tartars, and their pretty little mosques
and slender minarets.

234 CHATEAU OF COUNT WORRENZOW.

Nor were these the only interesting features
in this highly-favoured spot ; for here and there
were to be seen the neat villa, well-kept garden,
and tiny park of the wealthy Russian noble.
There was also the magnificent chateau of Count
Worrenzow with its castellated towers, which
seemed to look proudly down on its more humble
neighbours, in all the feudal grandeur of by-gone
days.

Indeed, the whole of the country between
Aloupka and the port of Yalta, which we were
now fast approaching, is the most beautiful and
fertile on the south coast of the Crimea ; and
having the advantage of being protected from
fhe cold northern winds by the high mountains,
the climate is mild, and considered highly fa-
vourable to the health of invalids. Here the
fruits of more southern climes attain the highest
perfection ; therefore you cannot be surprised to
hear that every spot is cultivated to its highest
capabilities. The very rocks have been con-
verted into gardens and vineyards, and carriage-
roads and avenues conducted, at a great expense
and labour, along the shelving sides of the hills
to the dizzy heights above.

The most distinguished country seats of the
Russian nobility pointed out to me, were those
of General Leon Nariskin, Prince Galitzin, and

YALTA. 236

Count de Witt; and as these gentlemen were
then at their villas, they welcomed us as we
passed with successive discharges of cannon, and
at the same time the banner of each family, in
true baronial style, was instantaneously unfurled.

Our vessel now made a slight detour, and ran
in to the pretty curving bay of Yalta. Here we
were again received with a deafening salute from
the shore, and also from the Russian ships of war
at anchor in the port. The scene at this moment
was highly picturesque ; the sun still glowed in
all its glory in the cloudless heavens, the bay
itself, blue as the azure sky, was crisped with a
slight refreshing breeze. Numbers of Tartar
fishermAi in their primitive costume, and still
more primitive boats, were resting on their oars
around the Iphigenia corvette, listening in won-
dering admiration to the fine band playing on its
quarter-deck. Sailors were leaning carelessly on
their guns, and the officers, clustered in groupes,
were waving their caps to welcome us to Yalta.

The little town itself, nestling in a curve of the
sea, appeared like a crescent of white buildings,
over which rose an amphitheatre of gently swell-
ing hills, upon whose sides hung, in the midst of
terraced vineyards, several pretty modern houses,
together with a Tartar village. A little further,
a dancing stream was seen descending from a

236 YALTA •

mountain gorge ; while, to judge from the multi-
tudes who covered the shore and filled the bal-
conies of the houses, it would appear as if the
whole population of Yalta and the surrounding
country had assembled to witness our arrival.
The variety of costume, the gay uniform of the
officers, the gaudy liveries of the servants, and
the singular dresses of the Tartars, added not a
little to the novelty and animation of the picture.
Perhaps you may think I have dwelt too long
on such scenes as these ; but, independently of
the interest I take in retracing them^ I regard
them as evidences of the progress of civilisation
in this remote and long-neglected country. It
was indeed altogether a glorious picture of civili-
sation, introduced too by the barbarian hordes o^
the north ! and when compared with the degraded
state of the Turkish provinces I had just left, a
striking exemplification of the difference between
the tendency of Mahometanism and Christianity.
The one dams up at its source the current of im-
provement, leaving society and its institutions
stationary for centuries ; while the other not only
purifies the stream of iuind, but leaves it free to
pass onward, and enlighten each succeeding age
with a greater degree of knowledge than its
predecessor.

Yalta, quite a little town, With good hotels.

YALTA. 237

post-office, post for horses, and every conveni-
ence for the traveller, is entirely the creation of
Count Worrenzow. The houses are well built,
the streets prettily laid out, and an air of com-
mercial improvement everywhere visible ; and
from the security of the harbour, and other com-
mercial advantages, Yalta has every chance of
becoming a prosperous town.

On landing, we were met by his excellency
the governor-general and the principal nobility
of the country ; and as horses were provided, we
all mounted and rode to Massandra, a country
seat belonging to the count, about a league
distant ; his chateau, then building at Aloupka,
not being sufficiently completed for the reception
of company.

238 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

LETTER XXIII.

VOYAGE TO CIRCAS8IA WITH COUNT WORRBNZOW — TRAVEL-
LINO GUESTS OF HIS EXCELLENCY — AGREEABLE SAILING

THEODOSIA — ILLUMINATIONS — RECEPTION OF THE GOVER-
NOR-GENERAL — ANCIENT SPLENDOUR OF THE TOWN —
RUINED STATE OF ITS COMMERCE — CAVIARE — CIMMERIAN
BOSPHORUS — ARRIVAL AT KERTCH.

The day had now arrived for the commencement
of our intended voyage round the coast of the
Black Sea, to which I looked forward with the
greatest interest, for none similar had been per-
formed since the days of Roman grandeur ; and as
this was undertaken in obedience to the express
command of the Emperor Nicholas, every pos-
sible means were devised to impart eclat, and to
assimilate it with that executed under the aus*
pices of the conquerors of the world.

We embarked in the government steam -boat,
Peter the Great, convoyed by the Iphigenia
corvette, commanded by Captain Poothatin, and
a cutter : these armed vessels were not altogether
for useless parade, as, judging by the accounts

VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA. 239

received from some officers just arrived from the
theatre of war in Circassia, it appeared highly
probable that an attack would be made upon us
by the warlike tribes of the Caucasus, who were
then carrying on a deadly war against the Rus-
sians.

Our party consisted of his excellency, Count
Worrenzow, whom yee may term the autocrat of
the expedition ; his subjects being the Count
de Witt, commander-in-chief of the Russian
cavalry, Prince Galitzin, Prince Tchetrerchinski,
and other princes, whose names I never could
pronounce or write; Mr. Yeames, the consul-
general of England, M • St. Sauveur, the consul-
general of France, together with aides-de-camp,
officers civil and military, doctors, historiogra-
phers, artists, and gentlemen without number.
Nor were we without the fairer portion of
creation : besides the lady of our autocrat, we
had Mesdames Nariskin, Potocky, de Choiseul,
&c.

Every preparation being completed, and an
American, M. Sontag, a rear-admiral in the Rus-
sian service, having assumed the command of the
expedition, we left Yalta with a fair but light
breeze, which soon dropped into a dead calm,
obliging the steamer to take the corvette in tow.
The commencement of pur voyage was the per-

240 ALOUCHTA.

feet ideal of sailing, such as poets may dream of,
but is seldom realised in the experience of mor-
tals ; for unless a thunder-storm should occur,
this part of the Black Sea is seldom agitated by
any swell during the summer months, and now
it merely changed from a glossy calm to a fea-
thery ripple ; while the slight murmur of the
foam before the prow of the corvette was not suf-
ficient even to overpower the lighter passages
of the music, as it floated occasionally beyond
the bulwarks, and was re-echoed by the rocky
coast.

In truth, the elements appeared to have made
a league in our favour ; the motion of the vessel
was scarcely perceptible ; the temperature of the
air was both physically and mentally invigora-
ting ; and, instead of the fatigue and privations
which too often beset the path of the traveller
when on shore, we now glided from bay to bay,
from port to port. Agreeable society chased
ennui from the mind, and the provident fore-
thought of our kind host prevented the intrusion,
not only of a want, but even of a wish.

The same chain of rocks that guard the south-
em coast continued our companions, but they did
not improve on acquaintance ; for, with tlie ex-
ception of the country around Alouchta, and that
between Yalta and Aloupka, with which I have

THEODOSIA. 241

already endeavoured to familiarise you, the
scenery is not calculated to impress the traveller,
who sails along the coast, either with its beauty
or fertility.

The first port at which our little fleet came to
anchor, wasTheodosia ; andrunningin with a fair
wind, it was immediately known that we had on
board the governor-general ; when the flags of
every vessel in the harbour streamed in the wind,
and a deafeningsaluteof cannon welcomed us from
the shore and the ships. On landing, we found
the governor of the Crimea, M. Katznacheef,
with the principal inhabitants of the town, and
the military under arms, ready to receive the
count with all the honours due to his high rank.

After the introductory compliments had passed,
we were invited to partake of a grand entertain-
ment, prepared at the residence of the governor.
All was bustle and animation ; the whole popula-
tion of the town, dressed in their finery, appear-
ed to line the beach and the streets through which
we passed. In the evening the town, together
with the ships in the harbour, were brilliantly illu-
minated ; and as Theodosia is built at the base,
and on the shelving sides of a semi-circular chain
of hills, the prospect from the sea, presenting
as it now did one blaze of light, was truly mag-
nificent.

VOL. I. R

242 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

I have been purposely somewhat diffuse in my
accounts of our ceremonials, as they show^ not
only the implicit deference paid to rank in this
country, but also the high estimation in which
this excellent man, Count Worrenzow, is held
by the people ; for though the attention of the
governor and military must be considered official,
yet the popular homage was undoubtedly spon*
taneous, and this was offered with a warmth and
unanimity that fully evinced its sincerity.

To judge from the situation, Theodosia, or,
as it is now more generally called, Caffa, is well
adapted for commerce: the anchorage is good,
and that very near the shore ; and the bay is shel*
tered from every wind, except the east and south-
east, which I understand rarely blow in these
seas with a violence to threaten serious danger
to the mariner.

The town is erroneously said to have been
erected on the site of the ancient Theodosius, so
famous in ancient history. Thus much, however,
is certain ; that so flourishing was the state of its
commerce, when in possession of the Genoese
during the middle ages, that it contained a hun-
dred and fifty thousand inhabitants; and, from
the splendour of its public buildings, received the
appellation of the Constantinople of the Crimea.

The only remains now existing of the grandeur

THEODOSIA. 243

of its Italian masters, is a watch-tower in tole-
rable preservation, and the massive ruins of the
fortifications ; for being captured and plundered
by the Turks in 1474, they destroyed the greater
part of the town, and the few inhabitants that
escaped the general wreck of their once-proud
city, fled to other countries; whilst those that
remained, sunk into degraded indolence and po-
verty. It was, however, reserved for the Rus-
sians, under the command of Paul Potemkin,
brother of Prince Gregory, the celebrated fa-
vourite of Catherine II., to complete the work
of devastation, so truly and graphically described
by Clarke when he visited the Crimea. Indeed,
the name of that cruel and avaricious tyrant is
still held in the deepest abhorrence, not only
by the poor Tartars, but by his own countrymen,
the Russians, and who never mention his name
but with some epithet of reproach. How neces-
sary, therefore, is it, that men in power should
curb their evil propensities, and govern with
moderation and justice, in order that their
names (nay, even their country and descendants)
may not be branded with infamy, and handed
down to posterity as a proverb of all that is base
and revolting in human nature.

Theodosia is again slowly advancing towards
prosperity, under the enlightened rule of its

R 2

244 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

present governor-general ; but, owing to the vi-
cinity of Kertch, which is more advantageously
situated for trade, its commerce at present is
very trifling, being confined almost wholly to
fish, which abound in the neighbouring seas,
particularly turbot and sturgeon. The caviare
made from the spawn of the latter is much es-
teemed ; and the herrings, anchovi&s, and
oysters, are excellent, and exported in lai^e
quantities to the interior of Russia; as the long
and frequent fasts imposed by the Greek church
occasion a large consumption.

On leaving Theodosia, we bade adieu to every-
thing like beauty on the coast ; the rocks, whose
foliage had already become very scanty, soon fell
into a monotonous steppe, without a tree to relieve
the aspect of the dreary waste ; and an occasional
flock of sheep, with the hut of a Tartar, alone
told that man was here a denizen. This desola-
tion is the more extraordinary, as, according to
the writings of Strabo, and even of the Genoese
in the fifteenth century, we learn that the whole
of the district lying between Theodosia on the
Euxine and the Sea of Azov, produced such
abundance of corn, as to receive the appellation
of the granary of the Crimea ; thus affording
another evidence, either of the deteriorating
influence of the Mahometan rule, or that the

ACCIDENT. 245

climate has entirely changed since that pe-
riod.

Between the ports of Theodosia and Kertch
an accident happened to the English consul,
Mr. Yeames, which might have proved fatal.
Owing to the total absence of wind, it became
necessary that the steamer should be attached
to the corvette for the purpose of towing her : the
passengers in the former vessel, who crowded
the deck at the time, not being apprised that
.the steamer was about being set in motion, re-
mained unconscious of their danger, when, as
might be expected, the mischief-making cable
bounded from the deck, and more or less injured
several persons in its vicinity, but none so se-
verely as our worthy consul, who was prostrated
senseless on the deck, and remained an invalid
during the rest of our voyage.

This accident, together with the bursting of a
cannon at the firing of a feu de joie on our de-
parture from Odessa, and which severely wounded
several persons, excited great alarm among the
credulous portion of our party, for the Russians,
even those of the highest rank, still cling to the
belief of the most absurd superstitions ; conse-
quently many were the opinions expressed and
prognostications that these unlucky omens por-
tended some dire misfortune to the expedition.

246 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

After passing the remains of the fortified wall
which formed the boundary of the ancient king-
dom of the Bosphorus, we doubled Cape Thakli,
and entered the Cimmerian Bosphorus, which
unites the Black Sea with the Sea of Azov, and
forms the boundary between Europe and Asia in
this part of the globe.

We were now in the centre of countries con-
nected with some of the most brilliant periods in
the history of the Greeks and Romans. These
were the countries that formed the emporium of.
the commerce of Athens, which enriched her citi-
zens, and established her as a great maritime'
power ; and afterwards witnessed some of the
greatest triumphs of mighty Rome. Indeed, each
side of the strait abounds with objects to interest
the traveller in the numerous ruins of its ancient
cities, and of the surprising number and size of
the sepulchral tumuli everywhere visible.

Favoured by a breeze and the strong current,
we soon passed the strait, and cast anchor at
Kertch, the ancient Panticapeum, and famous
capital of the hero, Mithridates Eutapor. This is
the most animated sea-port in the Crimea, and,
from its situation, remarkably well adapted for a
commercial position. Count Worrenzow, aware
of this, has done everything to promote its pros-
perity ; and among other regulations to further

KERTCH. 247

his design^ he recently obtained an ukase from
St. Petersburg, compelling all vessels bound for
the Sea of Azov to stop here and perform qua^
rantine.

This measure alone has been productive of
great advantage to the town, still in its infancy.
Its present number of inhabitants, which are on
the increase, amount to between three and four
thousand. The houses are built with some degree
of taste, the streets regular, and in planning them
the error, so. common to the other modem towns
I have seen in Russia, has been avoided, of making
the streets of such a breadth, that the inhabitants,
either from w^ant of inclination or ability, never
pave them ; consequently the stranger is tor-
mented with clouds of dust in summer, and with
mud ankle deep in winter.

The quarantine establishment of Kertch, plan-
ned and executed according to the orders of the
count, is a perfect model of its kind, with respect
to its convenience and arrangements. The
situation is airy, the apartments large, the pro-
menades extensive ; and it possesses the rare
advantage in this parched-up country of being
abundantly supplied with the purest spring
water. We found in one of the wards a Greek
captain, just recovering from the plague ; he
had been attended during the whole of his ill-

248 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

ness by one of his countrymen, who slept in his
room without experiencing the slightest incon-
venience, and ridiculed the very idea of the
plague being contagious.

KERTCH^ 249

LETTER XXIV.

KBRTCH IN ITS PRESENT STATE — BANQUET— MUSEUM — HILL

OF GOLD — OPENING OF A TUMULUS DISCOVERIES —

VIOLATION OF THE TOMB — TUMULI — EXTENSIVE RUINS IN
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF KERTCH — SEAT OP MITHRIDATES
— CLIMATE.

Independently of the interest attached to Kertch
as having been the residence of Mithridates, we
cannot behold it from the sea without being
struck by its pleasing appearance. Like Theo-
dosia, it is surrounded by an amphitheatre of
hills, partially covered with houses rising up
from its beautiful bay to the heights above : a
pretty temple crowns the spot, once adorned by
the regal residence of the Bosphorian kings ; and
another, much more elegant and beautiful in its
architecture, a projecting terrace : the latter,
intended to be the Museum, is erecting at the
expense of the Emperor Nicholas. But the
whole of the surrounding country being entirely
destitute of foliage, and nearly so of vegetation,
we cannot regard it for any length of time,
without being annoyed by the bright glare of

250 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

the sea and dazzling whiteness of the buildings.
Such is the lamentable want of trees in this part
of Krim Tartary , that the inhabitants are obliged
to resort to a distance of a hundred and twenty
wersts in order to obtain fire-wood.

The count was received at Kertch with the
same military honours, illuminations, and fire-
works^ as at Theodosia, and the whole of our
party regaled with a splendid banquet, given by
the governor of the town, Prince Kherkheou-
lidzeff. The viands were numerous and good;
and I could not help noticing the Crimea lamb,
for the peculiar delicacy of its flavour : nor must
I forget the wines, also the production of the
Crimea, which I thought resembled those of
Cyprus. Here I was also introduced, for the
first time, to the national drink of Russia, — the
far-famed kuass, which I found upon tasting to be
sour, weak, watery, and unpalatable ; yet, it is
extremely popular with every Russian, from the
emperor to the peasant. It is made from fer-
mented flour and water ; and when flavoured with
fruit, such as apples, plums, crabs, or sour wine,
it receives the name of Kieslschice ; in which
form, I thought it much more agreeable.

The best description of the Russian kuass was
that given by George Tubervill, one of our poets
in the reign of Queen Elizabeth : who says,

I

TUMULI. 251

" Such liquor as they have,««nd as the country gives,
The one called Kuas, whereby the Russie lives,
Small ware, water-like, but somewhat tart in taste."

After dinner, we visited a public school muni-
ficently endowed by the emperor, and remarkably
well conducted : we then extended our promenade
to the Museum, the collection of whicli has been
considerably augmented since the opening of a
tumulus in 1830, called by the Tartars Altyn
Obo, or the hill of gold ; pretended to have been
the tomb of Mithridates. The immense quantity
of bronze gilt vases, gold ornaments, and trinkets
then found, fully justified the appellation: they
were all of the most exquisite workmanship, but
unfortunately a great number of those peculiarly
remarkable for their beauty, had been sent to
St. Petersburg* This is much to be regretted, as
objects of art, which have descended to us in this
manner, — relics of ages long since passed away,
are certainly far more interesting in the country
where they were discovered : for not only does
the locality invest them with a peculiar charm,
but they are in some measure linked with its
history. The remainder have been placed in the
Museum, which contains, in addition, a very choice
collection of statues, vases, and medals, the whole
found in the environs, and unquestionably of
Grecian workmanship.

252 VOYAGE ItOUND THE BLACK SEA.

As may be supposed, the acquisition of these
treasures generated the desire to open another of
the surrounding tumuli ; and in the full expec-
tation that a second discovery of equal importance
would be made, the authorities of Kertch selected
one, whose dimensions were similar to those of
the Altyn Obo, and employed a number of men
for several weeks in its excavation. After much
labour and useless search, they at length came
to an enormous slab ; when guards were stationed
around it till the arrival of the count, as it was
intended to have been opened in his presence,
and by torch-light.

The scene displayed on this occasion v/i% one
of great novelty, derived partly from the varied
costumes of the company, and partly from tlie
singular character of every surrounding object;
for the tumulus being distant a few leagues from
Kertch, the country was so wild, that not a single
human habitation was visible, and vegetatiou had
entirely disappeared beneath the scorching rays
uf the sun ; the height of the thermometer in tliis
part of the Crimea, during the summer months,
often exceeding a hundred degrees ofFahrenheit.

You must now suppose our party, amounting to
abouta hundred, in the dark bosom of an immense
tomb ; some below at a depth of thirty feet, others
perched on the sides illumined by blazing torches.

OPENING OF A TUMLUUS. 253

whose lurid glare crimsoned the white robes of
the women, and lit up tlie splendid land varied
uniforms of the ojfficers ; for we had Cossacks
of the Don, Tchernemorsky Cossacks, Circas-
sians, Russian sailors, Tartars, Greeks, Karaite
Jews, &c.

The work of raising the ponderous slabs, which,
singular to say, had been placed over the tomb in
the form of a cross, slowly proceeded : expectation
was highly wrought ; and when after much labour
the massive stones were removed, we beheld a
square trough of cut stone, with a wooden box in
the centre containing a bronze urn, gilt, of the
most graceful form and elaborate workmanship.

The whole was carried to Kertch ; but when
opened, alas ! was found to enclose no other trea-
sure than the ashes of him who had been there in-
terred. These remains, perhaps of a prince or hero
who had proudly led his followers to victory, I
afterwards saw carried out by the servant, and
thrown upon the dunghill !

Must we not regard this as an act of wanton
sacrilege? Centuries upon centuries have elapsed,
these tumuli have been respected by successive
hordes of barbarians who overran the country,
until it was reserved for the civilised barbarian of
the nineteenth century to violate the sacredness
of the tomb ! It may be said, that this is done

254 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

to advance the purposes of science^ history, &c.
Granted ; but surely it would be more consonant
with good feeling to have replaced the ashes from
whence they were taken.

It is to be regretted that Christians of every
age and in every clime have not been so scru«
pulous in violating the sanctity of the tomb as
might be wished, though at the same time this
practice is directly opposed to the divine tenets
of our religion. If we only turn to the middle
ages, the picture is indeed dark ; and in modem
times, although we admit the motive — the ad-
vancement of the purposes of science, to be a pal-
liation, yet we must lament the sacrilege. Owing
to the rapacity of the western hordes under Bald-
win, Earl of Flanders, when in possession of Con-
stantinople, the world has to regret the loss of some
of the proudest monuments of immortal Greece.
These barbarians not only plundered the tombs
of the emperors and private individuals, but sacri-
legiously robbed the temples dedicated to their
own faith ; and, in their thirst for spoil, melted
down every description of metal, from the beau-
tiful golden ornaments of the churches, even to
the bronze statues in the streets.

In this respect, the conduct of the Turk, not-
withstanding all his faults, deserves our warmest
admiration ; for in every country, and in every

TUMULI. 255

war, the disciple of Mahomet has religiously
respected the last resting-place of frail morta-
lity.

The tumuli of these countries are exceedingly
interesting ; the prodigious size and immense
numbers we find, both here and in the adjoining
island of Taman, incontestibly prove that it was
a country once occupied by a great and powerful
people. That they were opulent, the variety of
gold ornaments, beautiful vases, exquisite statues,
andsculptured tombs found in the neighbourhood,
sufficiently show. With regard to the origin of
the tumuli, if we may depend upon the tradi-
tionary accounts of the descendants of the abori-
ginal inhabitants, some few of whom are still to
be found in the mountainous districts of the
Crimea^ they were voluntarily erected by the peo-
ple ; as when one of their great warriors or kings
expired, his ashes were placed in the tomb, and
every man who admired his virtues carried a
portion of earth and threw it over his grave.

Be this as it may, they have certainly not been
formed by earth excavated in the vicinity, which
is always perfectly level ; and some geologists go
ttie length of saying, that the earth of which they
are composed is different in its nature from tliat
on which they stand.

However, the idea of a mountain-tomb being

256 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

fprmed as a tribute of the voluntary admiration
of an entire people for a chief whose loss they
deplored, is beautiful and affecting ; and as-
suredly, if we had such a custom in our own
country, it would be at least an incentive to some
of our ambitious statesmen and heroes to be more
virtuous, as th^ would then aspire to the distinc-
tion of having a pyramid of earth erected over
them. The tradition of the Tartars is not, how-
ever, without some foundation in truth ; for the
cairns of the Scots were erected in a similar man-
ner : and in the north of Scotland, an expression
of friendship and affection still remains among
the people to this effect: ^^ I will cast a stone
upon thy cairn."

The resources which the whole of these coun-
tries offer to the traveller are varied and inter-
esting ; and I much regretted that the short time
we remained at Kertch would not permit me to
examine, with a greater degree of attention, the
interesting ruins of ancient cities in the neigh-
bourhood, a description of which would alone fill
a volume.

Besides the remains of the Acropolis, built by
Mithridates on a mountain, and which still retains
his name, there are, also contiguous to the town,
the Cimmerium, Akra and Nymphe of the an-
cients, together with the ruins of the palace of the

KERTCH. 257

kings of the Bosphorus ; and not far distant from
the quarantine establishment, that called Myrmi-
cuim. By extending our promenade only a few
leagues further^ to the fort of Yeni-kale, near the
sea of Azov, we find some remains of the famous
Orthmion, and if we cross the Cimmerian strait
to the isle of Taman opposite, there is all that
now exists of the once splendid city of Phanagoria,
among whose ruins, notwithstanding the well*
known propensity of the Russians to destroy an-
tiquities, may still be traced its celebrated
Naumachia, a thousand paces in diameter.
^ In my solitary rambles, I often reposed on a
peak of the mountain called the seat of Mith-
ridates, which commands a fine view of the sea
and the surrounding country, now a melancholy
picture of desolation ; for, with the exception of
the little town of Kertch, we behold nothing save
ruins and tumuli, — not even a tree, and scarcely
sufficient vegetation to support a few stray sheep,
who are occasionally seen endeavouring to glean
a scanty subsistence from the parched-up earth.
During one of my visits to my favourite haunt,
where the heroic monarch was accustomed to sit,
meditating the conquest even of mighty Rome
herself, I fell into a fit of musing on the insta-
bility of human greatness, on the frail tenure by
which man holds power, wealth, fame ; but these

VOL. I. s

258 VOTAOE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

most sublime meditations were quickly changed
into contemplations on the mutability of human
enjoyments ; for having forgotten the hour of our
departure, I observed our little squadron on the
point of leaving the bay of Kertch. A few
bounds brought me to the beach, and the sight
of a dollar procured me a Tartar boat, which
soon took me alongside the corvette.

On account of the great heat of the weather,
the governor-general took advantage of the cool
breeze of the evening to prosecute our voyage
towards the fortress of Anapa, the first Russian
settlement in Circassia. The air was serene and
refreshing, without the slightest indication of
humidity, and the night delightful, illumined as
it then was by a moon so bright, that I found no
difficulty in reading by its light. Indeed, it was
only by substituting her mild radiance for the
burning splendour of the sun, that we could
enjoy existence ; as in this country, such is the
intensity of the heat during a month or two in
summer, that not only the spirits, but frequently
life itself sinks beneath its enervating influence.

However, with the exception of the inconve-
nience resulting from the burning heat of the sun
during a few hours of the day, and which pre-
vented us from going on deck, we had every rea-
son to enjoy our voyage. Fancy, then, the plea-

AGREEABLE SAILING. 259

sure of gliding over the broad expanse of the
Euxine without as much as a breeze, or even a
swell, that could excite the apprehension of the
most timid woman. In addition to this, our
occupations and amusements were as diversified
and agreeable as if we had been passing our time
among the gayest party in the most fashionable
saloon : for the studious there was a well-assorted
library, card-tables for the idle, music for the
admirers of that delightful art; while to the
observer, the varied characters of the moving
multitude, the distinctive traits by which each
individual was marked, supplied a fund of
amusement, particularly the sailors, a race pro-
verbially light-hearted and merry. Watching
the playful dolphins as they bounded through
the waters, afforded another occupation for the
indolent ; these poetic fishes, which abound in
the Euxine, here white and there grey, were our
constant companions ; they hovered about our
vessels, now darting with the swiftness of arrows
through the mighty deep, then sailing quietly
along in pairs, as if determined to keep pace
with us.

s 2

INTBBTIRW BETWIBN COUNT WORRBNZOW AND I
CIRCASSIAN CHIRP.

LETTER XXV.

FIRST A9FECT OF THE CAUCASIAN HOtTNTAINS— CIRCABEIANS
— THBIR HOSTILITY TO RUSSIA— .PROCLAMATION OP THR

KING OP BNOLAND TO TBB CIRCASSIANa THB POBT>

POLIO IN THB MOUNTAINS OP THB CAUCASUS — INTER-
VIBW BRTTFEBN COUNT WOBBENZOW AND A CIRCASSIAN
CHIBP— POBTBESa OP ANAPA — ORIGIN OP THB CON-
NEXION BBTWEBN THB TURKS AND CIHCASSIANS — ANAPA
DKCOHRS A FACHALIK — POLITICAL INTRIOUE8 WAB BE-
TWEEN THE TURKS AND RUSSIANS — DISASTROUS CONSE- ■
QUBNCBS TO THB CIRCASSIANS PROM THEIR ALLIANCE
WITH THE TURKS.

At the dawD of the following day, I was aroused
from my cot by the sailors crying " Tcherkesee !
Tcherkesse!" Circassiat Circassial and jumping

ANAPA. 26 1

upon deck, I caught for the first time a view of
the lesser chain of the Caucasus, piled up in all
their varied forms to heaven ; and a more bril-
liant pageant than they then exhibited cannot be
imagined. The sun, as it slowly emerged from
behind a distant peak, gradually gilded every
separate pinnacle of the stupendous. range ; and
by its rosy light we discovered the white walls of
the fortress of Anapa, bristling with cannon. The
decks were soon filled by our party, enjoying the
long-wished-for sight ; and running into the port
with the morning breeze, we were again received
with a deafening salute from the shore.

The heights around the fortress of Anapa being
in possession of the hostile tribes of the Caucasus,
were covered with armed men, who seemed much
amazed at the appearance of our little fleet, and
probably mistook the sailors and passengers for
soldiers, as horsemen were seen galloping in
every direction, as if to alarm the inhabitants.
In a ' few minutes, however, they disappeared,
leaving none behind, save a few solitary sentinels
on the most prominent situations, evidently for
the purpose of watching our movements. I
found, however, by the aid of a powerful glass,
that the dense forests on the shore and the sides
of the hills were filled with . armed men, no
doubt with the intention of giving us a warm

262 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

reception, if we extended our visit beyond the
walls of the fortress.

Here the governor-general landed, accompa-
nied only by his own compatriots : his reason for
this proceeding I am unable to divine, this being
the only time he had done so daring the whole of
our voyage. I subsequently learned, from one
of the party, that the garrison was excessively
unhealthy, and had recently experienced several
disastrous reverses in their conflicts with the na*
tives, who had lately manifested a more deter-
mined spirit of hostility ; and their attacks being
now conducted with greater military skill and dis*
cipline, had proved more murderous to their inva-
ders. They were also said to be commanded by
an English officer who had served in India. But
the last, and to me the most extraordinary piece
of intelligence was, that the country was inundated
with copies of a proclamation from the king of
England, calling upod the Circassians to defend
their country ; and that in the event of their re-
quiring'^assistance, he would forthwith despatch a
powerful fleet to their aid I Nor was this the only
marvel related : for the count himself informed
me, that numerous copies of that dreadful publi-
cation, the PortfoHojWere industriously circulated
among the people. These two astonishing docu*
ments, of course, were immediately translated.

ANAPA. 263

and sent to shake the nerves of the cabinet of St.
Petersburg.

My surprise at this intelligence was only
equalled by my vexation : I wished myself on
shore a thousand times, as I fully expected the
pleasure of my tour was terminated, particularly
when I observed the cold looks of several Russian
friends, who would not separate the individual
from his country. Not so, however. Count
Worrenzow : he had the good sense and kind
feeling to discern at once that this could not be
either the secret, or avowed act of the English
government, but the wild plan of some exiled
Poles who, from the private information he had
received, were then among the mountaineers.
Indeed, the very idea was absurd in the extreme ;
for what benefit was likely to accrue from circu-
lating political treatises among a' people, who are
not only ignorant of every foreign language, but
unable to read their own ?

When relating the little details of his visit to
the fortress of Anapa, the count informed me
that he had been honoured with a visit from a
Circassian prince, chief of the Natouhay tribe,
originally Tartars, who had fled into the moun-
tains of the Caucasus upon the conquest of the
provinces on the banks of the Kouban and the
sea of Azov.

264 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

These people now occupy the left bank of the
Kouban, within the Circassian territory, are
considered brave even to ferocity, and having
carried with them to their adopted country the
most bitter animosity against the conquerors of
their native land, they are, perhaps, the most
uncompromising enemies with which Russia has
to contend in these provinces. The purport of
the mission of the chief was no less important
than to request the assistance of the garrison in a
love affair, as he was anxious to carry off the
daughter of a neighbouring prince who, it ap-
peared, had been refused him in marriage.
This request, however, was regarded merely as a
pretence; the real object of his intentions being
supposed to be observation ; or, to speak plainly,
that he was a spy. And such are the suspicions
entertained by this people of the good faith of
the Russians, that during the whole time of his
conversation with the count, his squire held a
loaded pistol in his hand on the cock, ready to
be discharged at the head of his excellency, in
the event of any violence being offered to his
master.

Anapa is situated at the base of a mountain
which terminates the lesser chain of the Cau-
c^us, from whence the vast plain of the Kouban
extends north and east ; the south side of the

ANAPA. 265

town is protected by fortifications erected upon a
rock of about a hundred feet high ; towards the
north the coast is low and marshy, defended by
a mole with bastions from an attack by sea, but
altogether appearing neglected, and in every
respect but ill calculated to resist a serious can-
nonading.

As a port, the anchorage is not considered
very secure ; and being shallow, it is only capa-
ble of receiving small vessels, which run the
risk of being driven out to sea by the violence of
the wind, which often descends from the moun-
tains with all the force of a hurricane. The
inhabitants, consisting of Circassians, Nogay
Tartars, Kalmucks, Komouks, Kabartis, Ka-
zannes, Demikarponis, Daghistanes, Boukhares^
with a few Greeks, Armenians, and Russians,
speaking a medley of tongues, form a variety
seldom met with in so small a population as two
thousand. That you may not think me gifted
with the faculty of ubiquity, I ought to inform
you, that I was indebted for these statistical parti-
culars to the historiographer of our little expedi-
tion, who accompanied the count on his visit to
the fortress ; and to his artist, M. Fazzardi, I
owe the vignette, which has been engraved from
a sketch he took during the interview between
the count and the Circassian prince.

266 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

The fortress is not furnished with a sufficient
supply of water, that found in the town being
brackish and unwholesome ; hence the garrison
are compelled to fetch this necessary article from a
mountain rivulet not far distant, called Boughori.
In theae expeditions they are obliged to be
escorted by a park of artillery with lighted
matches, as a defence against the determined
hostility of the natives.

Anapa and the surrounding country formerly
belonged to a warlike tribe of Circassians, called
Skhegake. The last prince, Mehemet Gherei
Aslane, who was said to be extremely wealthy,
carried on a considerable trade with the Turks
and the Tartars of the Crimea, and even pos-
sessed several commercial vessels ; but after the
establishment of the Zaporogztsi Cossacks by
Prince Potemkiu, on the opposite banks of the
Kouban, and who from that time took the name
of Tchernemorsky Cossacks, or Cossacks of the
Black Sea, a continual predatory war ensued
between them and the Skhegake Circassians, in
consequence of which that tribe^ with the family
of its chief, have become nearly extinct. It was
from this prince that the Turks obtained permis-
sion to establish themselves at Anapa in 1784,
for the twofold purpose of protecting their sub-
jects the Nogay and Krim Tartars, who had

ANAPA. 267

taken refuge among the mountaineers on the
subjection of their country by Russia, and as a
station for commercial purposes.

The fortress vfas built upon the ruins of one
originally constructed by the Genoese, and from
this epoch the inhabitants of the Caucasus may
date the commencement of the long vars which
have desolated their country down to the present
day. Anapa now became the seat of a Pacha,
Seid Achmet, who by his intrigues not only ex-
cited the Circassians to invade the territories of
Russia on the left bank of the Kouban, but to
rebel against their own chiefs. In this he was
influenced partly by jealousy of Russia, with whom
the Circassians had already established a commer-
cial intercourse, and partly by a selfish purpose ;
which so far succeeded, that he won over, by
bribes and great promises, two of the neighbour-
ing tribes, the Khapsoukhee and the Kabartee,
to revolt and massacre their own chiefs, and be-
come the subjects of the Sultaq.

These tribes, however, did not long remain
faithful to their engagements; for we subsequently
find them, commanded by their own native chiefs,
in open arms against the Turks, (whose rule had
become odious,) threatening the Pacha and his
garrison with utter destruction.

From this time the power of the Pacha extended

268 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

no farther than the walls of his fortress ; and the
Ottoman government wisely sought no other ad-
vantage than the quiet possession of the fortress,
and to establish commercial relations with the
natives, which they maintained in the most ami-
cable manner till their final expulsion.

Still, however peaceable might be the disposi-
tion of Turkey towards her Circassian allies, yet
they were sure to be made parties to every quar-
rel in which she was engaged ; and Anapa was
alternately taken and retaken both by Russians
and Turks. In 1790 the former, under General
Bibikow, crossed the Kouban at the head of
10,000 men, laying waste the country to the gates
of Anapa. In the following year General Goudi-
vitch took the town by assault ; and in 1807 it
was again captured by Admiral Poustochkin and
General Govorow, who after pillaging and de-
stroying the unlucky town and fortress, left it
desolate.

Still its misfortunes were not yet terminated ;
for in 1828 our countryman. Admiral Greig, left
Sevastopol with a Russian fleet, consisting of eight
vessels of the line, four frigates, and twenty cor-
vettes, besides transports, &c. ; and in conjunc-
tion with Prince Menstchikow, who commanded
a large force by land, the town and garrison were
subdued, after a murderous siege of nearly three
months.

ANAPA. 269

The obstinate resistance made by the Turkish
garrison this time, was partly referable to the
bravery of their allies^ the Circassians, who fought
courageously to the last, and were so enraged
with the governor, Osman Pacha, for delivering
up tfieir fortress to a foreign enemy, that they
vented their fury by detaining as slaves every
Turk who had fled to them for protection. Since
this time it has continued in possession of the
Russians, and the sword of the invader has never
been replaced in its scabbard.

That the possession of Anapa has opened a
wide field of enterprise for Russia cannot be
doubted, as it offers a tempting opportunity of
bringing under her sceptre the various warlike
tribes of the Caucasus; still, it appears a difficult
undertaking to conquer a people, enthusiastic
lovers of liberty, who, entrenched behind their
native mountains, have down to the present day
bid defiance to the attempts made by the most
powerful nations to bring them under subjec-
tion. The military operations of Russia have not
hitherto been productive of any decided advan-
tage, and the hatred of the people was never more
violently excited than at the present moment.

AN BVENINO VIEW OP THE BAY OF SOUDJOUK-KALE.

LETTER XXVI.

ARRIVAL AT SOUDJOUK-KALE ITS CAPTURE BY THE RUSSIANS

ADVANTAGEOUS POSITION — OBIOIN OP THE ESTABLISH-
MENT OF THE TUBKS AT SOUDJOUK-KALE — EXPULSION OP

THE TURKS SUPPOSED ANTIQUITY OP SOUDJOUK-KALE

SKETCH OP THE RUSSIAN CAUP— PLANS OF THE RUSSIAN

GOVERNMENT FOR THE PINAL SUBJUGATION OF CIRCAESIA

ARRIVAL OF A CIRCASSIAN NOBLE AT THE CAMP— HIS AD-
HESION TO TUB CAUSE OF RUSSIA — CHABACTBB OF THE
CIRCASSIANS — WATCH-FIRES.

The voyage we now made along the shore3 of
this beautiful country, was truly delightful ; the
breeze from the mountains tempered the great
heat, the oak, so long a stranger, once more reared

SOUDJOUK-K ALE. 27 1

its majestic head, and the thousand trees and
beautiful plants that covered the ground were
alike ifefreshing to the senses and cheering to the
spirits of the traveller, just arrived from the sterile
rocks, arid wastes, and burning atmosphere of
Krim Tartary,

In truth, such was the beauty of the scenery
and the variety of the prospects, that we glided
almost imperceptibly along till we arrived at
Soudjouk-Kale, a fortress of which the Russians
obtained possession, after a sharp contest with the
Circassians, only a few days previous to our ar-
rival ; and though composed of nothing but a heap
of ruins, yet the position is most important, being
situated on a splendid bay, affording safe anchor-
age ; while the valley, which is very fertile and of
great length, communicates with several others,
and thus opens an entrance into the interior of
the country, to the very base of the Caucasian
Alps.

Soudjouk-Kale, about thirty miles south-east of
Anapa, is in every respect admirably situated,
either as a commercial station, a military position
to hold the surrounding country in subjection, or
as a secure defence against any attack by sea.
But in order to ensure the safety of an establish-
ment upon this bay from the attacks of the natives,
it will be indispensable, not only to obtain posses*

272 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

sion of the heights which command the valley and
the entrance to the port, but to fortify them. This,
however, cannot be done except at a great ex-
pense and fearful sacrifice of life; and even should
the Russians succeed in the enterprise, I very
much doubt their power either of being able to
hold forcible possession, or allowed the necessary
time to fortiiy them, owing to the murderous
and harassing warfare continually carried on by
the natives.

Some few years after the Turks had established
themselves at Anapa, they obtained permission
from another Circassian prince, called Gherei-
Kochmit, son of Chagan-Gherei, to form a similar
establishment at this place ; consequently they
erected a commercial depot, which they after-
wards fortified and manned with a garrison, giving
it the name of Soudjouk-Kale (fortress of Soud-
jouk). But on looking over the Turkish re-
cords, I find that they adopted a different line of
policy from that pursued at Anapa, contenting
themselves with merely maintaining a friendly
correspondence with the natives, and in convert-
ing them to the creed of Islamism.

The Soudjouk commercial depot, however,
turned out equally fatal to the peace of the na-
tives as that at Anapa ; for we find it subsequently
taken from the Turks by the Russian General

SOUDJOUK-KALE. 273

Goudovitch ; and later in 1811 by the Due de
Richelieu, governor of Odessa ; and again revert-
ing to the Turks by the peace of Bucharest. But
the total want of warlike spirit exhibited by the
Turks, and the frequent introduction of the plague,
which swept thousands of the Circassians to their
graves, so disgusted this brave people, that in
1820 they finally banished their Mahometan
allies from this part of the coast, razed the fortifi-
cations to the ground, and Soudjouk-Kal^ re-
mained a heap of ruins till the present day. It is
supposed by some writers to have been the site of
the ancient Sindika, or Sidone, while others
assign this honour to Anapa ; the name of Soud-
jouk, however, bears the nearest analogy to the
original one, Sindika. An additional evidence is
afibrded in favour of the former, by the circum-
stance that Arrian, the geographer, asserts Sindika
to have been situated at a distance of five hundred
stades from Panticapeum, now Kertch ; and as
that town is about fifty miles from the bay of
Soudjouk-Kale, the measurements nearly agree,
at the rate of computing eleven marine stades to
a mile.

From the accounts we received from the Rus-
sian ofiicers, it would appear that the taking of
Soudjouk-Kale was attended with a great loss of
life, the Circassians having fought with the bra-

VOL. I. T

274 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

very of desperation. But how was it possible
that these mountaineers, with no other weapons
than rifle, sword, bows, and arrows, nor other
bulwark than their own breasts, could resist, with
any prospect of success, the attack of a well-dis-
ciplined army of 16,000 men, led on by an expe-
rienced general, M. Willemineff, assisted by a
regular train of artillery and every other materiel
of war ?

The shades of evening were fast deepening
into the gloom of night as we arrived at the camp
of Soudjouk-Kale, which then displayed a scene
that will ever live in my recollection. The vil-
lages of the unhappy mountaineers still blazing
on the sides of the hills, together with the nume-
rous watch-fires of the soldiers in various parts
of the camp, shed their lurid glare, not only over
the moving multitude, but the whole surrounding
country to the highest peaks of the towering
mountains, mimicking the bright blaze of the
noon-day luminary of heaven.

Nor was the view on the boundless expanse of
the Euxine at that moment less striking : the full
red moon, as it slowly emerged from the bosom
of the mighty deep, flung its tranquil light over
the crimsoned waves of the sea, forming a pure
and peaceful contrast to the warlike din on shore,
which exhibited a picture at once novel and ani-

RUSSIAN CAMP AT SOUDJOUK-KALE. 275

mated. The graceful form of the snow-white tents,
and the almost endless variety of the military cos-
tume, formed the principal features, — a variety
peculiar to the Russian empire, composed as it is
of so many different nations and tribes.

Besides the regular Russian troops, there were
the Tchernemorsky Cossacks, and those of the
Don, mounted on their fleet steeds, and brandish-
ing their long lances in the air ; and as the gover-
nor-general had been expected, the whole of the
military were habited in full uniform. The cos-
«tume of the Ataman, and the officers belonging
to the Tchernemorsky corps, could notbe exceeded
in splendour, being more oriental than European.
Their horses glittered with embroidered housings,
and their arms with embossed gold and turquoises;
while the cap of Astrakan, and the well-fitting
jacket or polonaise of scarlet cloth richly braided
with gold and ornamented with the Circassian
patron pocket, imparted a tout ensemble to the
figure at once warlike and magnificent.

In addition to these, the number of fine young
men, officers belonging to the life guards of the
emperor, (who had volunteered to serve in the
Caucasus during the summer's campaign,) glitter-
ing with jewelled orders^ contributed not a little
in giving variety to the picture, which was indeed
most characteristic.

T 2

276 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

The bands of the various regiments were per-
forming their most lively airs ; aides-de-camp
galloping to and fro ; here a group of soldiers
playing at cards on the head of a drum, there
creating thirst by swallowing copious draughts of
the beloved vodka ; in one place chaunting with
a loud roar their national airs, and in another
tripping the wild dance, the barina, to strains
equally wild.

So far all told of peace ; but there were other
signs and sounds which proclaimed that war was
not far distant. Such as the loud clang of the.
anvil, the sharpening of sabres, striking of flints,
cleaning of guns, mingled with the loud strokes
of the carpenter's axe employed in erecting pali-
sades. Nor were the number of sturdy fellows
hastily throwing up intrenchments, and camels
groaning beneath the weight of field-pieces and
ammunition-wagons, less indicative of the ap-
proaching struggle. In the midst of these hostile
preparations, some few were to be seen quietly
smoking at the door of their tents ; others squat-
ted round large fires— cooking perhaps their last
meal, for the avant-guard had just been driven in,
bringing the intelligence that the enemy were
advancing in great numbers, and from the posi-
tions they had taken, no doubt meditated a
serious attack.

RUSSIAN CAMP AT SOUDJOUK-KALE, 277

As we wandered through the immense multi-
tiide, not a few spoke eloquently, by their pale
emaciated countenances, bandaged limbs, and
attenuated frames, that their recent victory had
been indeed dearly bought. These poor invalids
Count Worrenzow never passed without address-
ing some few words of consolation and encourage*
ment ; and his first care was to visit those tents
appropriated exclusively to the sick and wounded,
where he distributed money, food, cordials — ^all that
could be necessary for their wants, and soothed
the spirits of the pain-worn men with sympathy,
and approbation for their bravery.

After taking some slight refreshment, and
smoking a tchibouque in the tent of the general,
our visit to the camp was concluded with a mimic
combat for the amusement of the ladies, between
the Cossacks of the Don, and the Tchernemorsky
Cossacks of the Kouban : the latter personated
the Circassians.

During the time I remained on shore, I had
for my companions several young officers of the
guards, who communicated to me a variety of
interesting particulars respecting the Circassians
and their mode of warfare, together with the plans
proposed to be carried into execution for the pur-
pose of reducing them to subjection.

Among other things, it is the intention of the

278 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

Russian government to occupy every port, bay,
and landing-place on the coast of Circaaaia ; and
to build forts in the most eligible situations, which
are to be connected with each other by means of
military roads, intended to be conducted along
the heights. Undoubtedly, if this plan can be
accomplished, the mountaineers will be prevented
from having any intercourse with their neigh-
bours the Turks, who are known to aid them
with their counsels, and supply them with ammu-
nition ; and as they are entirely destitute of salt,
powder, and every species of manufacture, this
scheme, it is presumed, will have the effect of
sowing dissension among the chiefs, breaking the
unconquerable spirit of the people, and of eventu-
ally reducing them to submission.

This is the more practicable, as Russia is al-
ready master of the right bank of the Kouban, the
provinces of Mingrelia, Immeretia, and Gourial ;
together with those countries lying between the
Caspian sea, and the Alps of the Caucasus.

For this object, Russia has been labouring
during the last half century ; for this, the effe-
' labitants of province after province have
lied, till nothing now remains to com-
circle, except the Circassian coast on
Sea; to effect which I have no doubt
lilies and resources of this vast empire

RUSSIAN CAMP AT SOUDJOUK-KALE. 279

will be directed. Still, so conscious are the Rus-
sians of the difficulty of the undertaking, that
the commander in chief, General WilleminefF,
assured me he considered the conquest of the
Ottoman empire would be a work of more facility
than the subjugation of the warlike tribes of the
Caucasus.

My young friends also pointed out to my notice
several Poles of noble families, who, either having
been taken prisoners during the late insurrection,
or exiled for their political opinions, were sent
here to serve as private soldiers ; the Caucasus
being considered in Russia as a second Siberia,
or rather, perhaps, a school in which refractory
subjects are taught the lesson of obedience.

One of these political delinquents, M , was

introduced to me, when dining a few weeks pre-
vious with the governor of Kertch. He had been
an author of great celebrity, and considered one
of the most learned men in the empire ; but having
unfortunately taken a prominent part in the well-
known revolutionary movement at St. Petersburg,
the punishment of his crime was mitigated, in
consideration of his literary talents, to military
banishment to the Caucasus, where he served
twelve years as a private soldier : and such was
his bravery and good conduct^ that, upon repre-
sentations being made to the Russian government

280 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

in his favour, he was pardoned, and presented
with a pair of epaulettes. However, pardon and
honours have come too late, as the poor fellow is
dying of a consumption.

Perhaps the greatest novelty of the camp at
Soudjouk-Kal^, was a native Circassian, a Pchi-
khan, or noble, who had recently joined the
Russian standard. The fairer portion of our
party thought proper to confer upon him the
name of Jupiter ; but I should be inclined to call
him an Antinous. His head and features, truly
Grecian, werestrikingly handsome; while the lux-
uriant beard, dark mustachios, and turbaned cap
of the finest black Astrakan, imparted an expres-
sion of manly beauty and character; and, in truth,
his figure for athletic grace of mould might well
have served as a model for the immortal Phidias.
Not having yet assumed the Russian uniform,
his costume was perfectly national, consisting of
a tunic and full trowsers of fine cloth, gathered at
the knee, the colour of the falling leaf, which
these mountaineers adopt as being best calculated
to conceal them in their guerilla warfare. Indeed,
I was not a little surprised to observe the neat
manner in which the dress of the young chief
was made, and it gave me quite a distaste for our
cherished European modes; as assuredly the open
collar displaying the fine contour of his neck, and

A CIRCASSIAN NOBLE. 281

the close-binding girdle that secured his sym-
metrical form, seemed to me all that nature and
art could devise for exhibiting the figure to the
best advantage.

The young traitor was, however, under strict
surveillance, it being strongly suspected he was a
spy ; for it is no uncommon freak of the Circas-
sian chiefs and nobles to offer their services to
the emperor, receive handsome presents in arms
and money, and then scamper off, on the first op-
portunity, to their own people, after having ac-
quired such information as might suit their
purpose. Several instances of this were related
to me, some of which had occurred only a short
time previous ; but none more strongly marked
with ingratitude than that of Mamet-Indargou^
chief of the Chipakoua tribe in the vicinity of
the bay of Pchad, who after receiving for many
years the pay and presents of the Russian go-
vernment, is now in open hostility against it,
while his sons are among the fiercest and most
determined enemies against Russian rule in
Circassia.

In short, the description we received from the
officers at the camp respecting the character of
the Circassians, would have been sufficient to
damp the ardour of any traveller, however cou-
rageous and enterprising he might be, from visits

282 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

ing a people in so savage a state. Among other
vices, they were represented to be all robbers by
profession, so ferocious that no kindness could
tame, so treacherous that no treaties could bind,
continually engaged in petty warfare even with
each other, notorious for duplicity and breach of
faith, and so utterly destitute of truth, that they
will not hesitate to slay with one hand, while the
other is extended in friendship.

These accounts were by no means calculated
to inspire me with encouraging anticipations as
to my projected tour in the interior of the Cau-
casus ; and certainly did not correspond ^ith the
details I received from my friend the Chevalier
Taitbout de Marigny, consul of his majesty the
King of Holland at Odessa, who visited the coast
of Circassia in 1823 and 1824. Though so
many years have since passed, he recalled, with
pleasure, the kind reception he then received ;
nor was he ever weary of praising the character
of that unsophisticated people for hospitality,
good faith, — in short, for all the virtues that
could adorn our species in a half-civilised state ;
and he often declared to me, that had it not been
for friends, family, and home, he would have
taken up his residence among them.

However, if we place ourselves in the position
of the Circassians, and consider with what feel-

CHARACTER OF THE CIRCASSIANS. 283

ings they must regard their powerful neighbours,
who endeavour, by the sword and every art of
political intrigue and corruption, to betray and
enslave them, we cannot feel surprised at any
conduct however atrocious, that people may
evince towards a nation whom they must ever
consider as most unprincipled invaders.

Highly delighted with our visit to the camp,
and grateful for the entertainments and amuse-
ments the officers had so kindly prepared for us,
we returned at a late hour to our vessels, and
passed the night at anchor in the bay, it not be-
ing deemed prudent to proceed on our voyage
along a coast occupied by so active an enemy.
Our attention was more than once directed to
numerous watch-fires blazing on the hills, which
appeared to correspond with each other like
telegraphs, evidently intended to give warning
of approaching danger.

284 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

LETTER XXVII.

VOYAGE TO OHBLKNDJIK — SPLENDID COAST SCENERY — ARRI-
VAL AT OHBLENDJIK — ADVANTAGES OP THE BAY A8 A

HARBOUR FAILURE OF THE RUSSIAN COLONY — FORTRESS

SALUBRITY OF THE CLIMATE BAY OF PCHAD HOSTILE

ATTITUDE OF THE NATIVES— FERTILE ASPECT OF THE COUN-
TRY — BAY OF DJOOK — BOUNDARY BETWEEN UPPER AND
LOWER ABASIA — CHARACTER OF THE ABASIANS— DEFILE OF
JAGRA — VISIT TO THE FORTRESS— INCESSANT WARFARE OF
THE NATIVES — UNHEALTHINESS OF THE SITUATION.

The next morning the sun rose with an Asiatic
splendour, such as we might expect in the land
where mornings were first created ; and as our
little fleet, with their clouds of canvas just fanned
by a gentle breeze, proudly wound its way in
a majestic curve out of the lovely bay, we beheld
the military rushing in thousands to the shore to
bid us adieu ; and at the same moment a loud
martial burst of wind-instruments floated along
the waves, whose sweet notes now lost, then
heard, were finally overpowered as they mingled
with the deafening roar of successive discharges
of artillery ; the whole forming a scene highly

SPLENDID SC£NERY. 285

picturesque and animated. But it was not till we
had doubled Cape Taouba, and entered the pure
transparent waters of the vast basin of the Eux-
ine, that I enjoyed in perfection what was most
congenial to my feelings,— the superb prospect of
this Eden-like country, which I am inclined to
think, for beautiful coast-scenery, has no parallel
upon this planet of ours.

I admired the shore, from Anapa to Soudjouk-
Kale, for its picturesque character ; but the sub-
lime panorama now unfolded, surpassed every
expectation, however sanguine, I had hitherto
formed. It was in truth a fairy-land, as if created
for the purpose of exhibiting the loveliest combi-
nations which unadorned nature alonecould form.

The mountains were covered with verdure
from the water's edge to the highest peak, and
whether the eye wandered along the shore, up
the bosomy hills, or through the fertile valleys,
numerous flocks of snow-white sheep were seen
quietly grazing, mingled with herds of buffaloes,
superb oxen, and jet-black goats, with their long,
slender limbs. Nor must we forget the numbers
of beautiful half-wild horses, proudly tossing their
curved necks and flowing manes while bounding
like deer through the valleys and along the steep
sides of the hills.

As our vessels glided slowly forward, we dis-

286 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

tinctly saw the little cots of the Circassians, with
their smoking chimneys and farm-yards sur-
rounded by groves of fruit-trees, appearing as
if the very abodes of contentment and peace ;
shepherds in their picturesque costume, with long
spears in their hands, tended their flocks and
herds; the agricultural fields were filled with
men, women, and children, cutting down the
wavingcom ; and camels and buffaloes, loaded with
the produce, were slowly winding their homeward
way through the deep valleys. It was indeed a
lovely picture, which blended the most sublime
and picturesque scenery with the beauty of roman-
tic rural life, and realised all that the most lively
invention of a poet could create of an Arcadia.

My eyes were never tired of resting on this
vision of loveliness : and I dwelt on it with feel-
ings of painful regret, as a picture I never was to
behold again, aware as I was of the fate to which
this interesting people are destined, the formi-
dable power against which they have to contend,
and the judicious plans laid down to deprive
them of their country and independence. I
thought of the young Kabardian I had known at
Constantinople, of the animated descriptions of
his country, his romantic attachment for it, his
disregard of wealth and luxury, his contempt for
the dress, customs, manners, and habits of

GHELENDJIK . 287

the efifeminate Turks. *' Give me/' said he,
" but my country free and independent ; my
cot, my friends, my horses, and my arms, and
I would not exchange my condition with the
great Padishah of all the Osmanlis." It is pro-
verbial that mountaineers, even in the most in-
hospitable regions, are enthusiastic lovers of their
country; but surely any man possessed of the
slightest spark of courage, who calls this beautiful
land his home, would die to defend it, from
being desecrated by the unhallowed footsteps of
a foreign tyrant.

Ghelendjik, the next military possession of
Russia on the coast of Circassia, being only about
sixteen miles distant from Soudjouk-Kale, we soon
came to anchor. This fine bay, called by the
Circassians Koutloutzi, and by the Turk^ Ja-
landji-Ghelendjik, is considered one of the safest
and most commodious harbours in the Black Sea.
I cannot compare its form to any other object
more appropriate than an oyster-shell ; being at
the entrance about three quarters of a mile from
cape to cape, two miles and a half in length, and
at its greatest breadth one mile and a quarter.
In the whole of this space there is capital anchor-
age, varying in depth from fourteen fathoms to
four very near the shore, the shallowest part
being that near a small river on the right bank

288 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

of the bay ; and as the harbour is protected against
every wind by the surrounding highlands, the
mariner has nothing to fear, except when the
north-east wind descends from the mountains.

The bay opens into a beautiful valley, called
Mezip, about a league in length, watered by a
small fertilising river, commanded by a range of
hills, and communicating with several others, one
of which leads to within a few leagues of Soud-
jouk-Kale, and another on the other side to the
bay of Pchad.

The Russians, fully sensible of the importance
of the bay of Ghelendjik as a commercial and
military position, took an early opportunity of ap-
propriating it to themselves ; for we find, shortly
after the taking of Anapa by that power, and the
extinction of the commercial alliance between
the Circassians and the Turks, that the emperor
issued an ukase, dated St. Petersburg, April 5,
1832, according permission to all Russian sub-
jects to form a settlement on the bay of Ghe-
lendjik, and at the same time granting immunity
from all taxes and imposts, together with exemp-
tion from military duty, for the space of twenty-
five years.

This permission was, however, given on con-
dition of defending themselves against the natives;
but the settlement having been found, on trial,

GH£L£NDJIK. 289

untenable, on account of the continued hostility of
the mountaineers, it was soon abandoned, and now
merely consists of a Ibrt, formed of intrenchments
and palisadoes, mounted with heavy guns, and
manned by a garrison of about two thousand men ;
who, as in the other fortresses, dare not venture
from their fastness, the whole of the heights and
passes being still in possession of the natives.

The dwellings of the soldiers are a miserable
assemblage of little cabins, built of wood. How*
ever, the men appeared more vigorous and healthy
than in any other of the garrisons we had
visited ; this was fully evidenced by the hospital,
which contained no more than between sixty and
seventy patients. I should therefore be inclined
to think, that Ghelendjik is a salubrious situation,
probably the result of the absence of marshes,
and the increased breadth of the valley.

Here we found stationed a Russian corvette, a
brig of war, and two or three cutters, which, to-
gether with the guns of the fort, saluted us on
our entrance into the bay. This, added to the
thunder from our own vessels, had a superb effect ;
more especially as the neighbouring mountains
echoed and re-echoed the hoarse roar, till the
pealing thunder gradually fell fainter on the ear,
and at length died away in silence.
But whatever amusement these warlike sounds

VOL. I. u ^

290 VOYAGE ROUND JH£ BLACK SEA.

might have afforded our delightful party, how dif-
ferent must have been the feelings of the unhappy
Circassians, when the horrid crash was repeated
by the rocks, and resounded through their once
peaceful valleys. At that moment, no doubt
many a hardy mountaineer girded his sword, and
many atimid mother, widi streaming eyes, pressed
her baby closer to her bosom, and flew to the
mountain top. O ambition ! how many crimes
hast thou not caused ! how many miseries inflicted
upon the human race ! .

AbQut fourteen or fifteen miles further, we
passed the bay of Pchad, still in possession of
the Circassians. Here we saw several small
vessels lying at some distance up the river, care^
fully covered with willows, and shaded by the
dense foliage on the banks. This was done for
the twofold purpose of preserving them from the
rays of the sun, and the observation of the Rus-
sians ; as a few weeks previous the captain of
our corvette paid them a visit, when he burned
nearly the whole of the vessels in the bay.

The inhabitants were evidently expecting a
repetition of hostilities ; for, by the aid of .a
powerful glass, I observed them assembled in
great numbers, and all well armed. Among the
groupes were several turbaned heads of the Turks :
I also clearly saw, that the dense forests which

BAY OP PCHAD. 291

lined the shore were filled with men equipped
with every description of offensive weapon, from
a rifle^ and bows and arrows, down to a javelin ;
and not unfrequently, a gallant chieftain galloped
forth on horseback in glittering armour, attended
by his squire, and, mounting the summit of a small
hill, drew his sword and waved it in the air, as
if defying us to combat. Indeed, we fully ex-
pected an attack, as we had been already repeat-
edly fired upon; and, in anticipation of such an
event, we were amply prepared with the means
of defence. But I have no such exciting incident
to record, the only disadvantage it entailed being,
that we were obliged to steer our course at a
greater distance from the shore.

Between Pchad and the bay of Djook (or
Kodos) I observed more decisive evidences of
civilisation than any I had previously witnessed.
Every spot appeared diligently cultivated ; the
sides of the hills were laid out in pretty fields,
enclosed with paling, in which numerous flocks
and herds were feeding, together with several
horses, evidently of the finest breed. The cot-
tages, also, appeared better built, with neat ve-
randahs in front ; and the verdant pastures and
meadows, intermingled with the golden corn, and
the dark shades of the groves and clumps of
forest trees, formed a picture which excited the
most lively admiration of our whole party.

u 2

292 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

We must presume, that the population and the
industrious habits of the people of Circassia have
been considerably underrated ; for, if we take into
account the vast territory they occupy, and the
number of hands required merely to cultivate one
of these immense mountains, frequently rising to
a height of five thousand feet, and, unlike those
of every other country I have visited, fertile to
the summit, this people must be not only very
numerous, but indefatigable agriculturists.

The scenery we now passed was equally lovely
with that I have attempted to describe, and only
wanted the turreted castle, ivied monastery, and
picturesque village of Europe, with its neat
church and pointed spire, to be the most charm-
ing country in the world. But the traveller who
is already familiar with European landscapes, will
here find objects and scenes which from their
novelty must create both surprise and interest.
And, thank Heaven ! war and desolation do not
affect the climate ; for the atmosphere is so balmy,
the air so light and bracing in the vicinity of the
mountains, as to exceed even that of the finest
part of Italy. The very mists that hover so
darkly round our northern mountains, are here
so light and filmy, that instead of obscuring t^ie
distant objects, they shed a still richer tint of
beauty over the whole landscape. Gigantic oak,

. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 293

beech, and the wide-spreadiDg valona, crown the
summits of dizzy heights, which in less favoured
climes would have exhibited the dark, cold, crip-
pled pine ; while the sides of the lofty hills, down
to the rippling stream beneath, bloom with every
tree, firuit, and flower, in all their rich luxuriance.

Then for the animated features of the land-
scape, we had bands of Circassians, headed by
their chief in bright armour, flying through the
woods ; camels, loaded with women and children,
slowly pacing along the beach, varied by the ap-
pearance of some noble dame, covered with her
white veil and mounted on her Arab steed, and
attended by her women. And, to give a still
further variety, these were a people different
from every other, a people who have maintained
their independence, while the most powerful
nations upon earth fell in succession beneath the
sway of the barbarian, or the rule of the proud
conqueror of civilised life ; a people living in all
the primitive simplicity of the ancient patriarchs,
still retaining their own laws, customs, and uian<»
ners from time immemorial ; a race the most
beautiful upon the face of the globe, and who
have never been contaminated by a mixture with
the blood of foreigners.

About twenty miles distant from Pch.ad, we

294 VOYAOE ROUND tHE BLACK SEA.

perceived the little bay of Djook, occasionally
visited by Turkish trading-vessels, several of
which were lying in the harbour. It presents
the form of a semicircle, and might measure three
quarters of a mile in diameter^ offers tolerable
good anchorage, and is still in possession of the
natives ; and, from the number of cottages, and
the well-cultivated fields in the neighbourhood,
we concluded the population to be considerable.
The valley of Djook is considered to form the
boundary between the provinces of Upper and
Lower Abasia.

A little further are also several other bays and
sinuosities with small rivers. The most impor-
tant are those called Mamai and Ardtler; the
latter is so inconsiderable, as scarcely to deserve
the name of a harbour ; but, being protected
by a cape from the fury of the north wind,
which in this part of the Black Sea often blows
with great violence, it is most frequently visited,
particularly by the Turks, the only strangers who
attempt trading with the Circassia-Abasians ; a
people said to be more piratical, ferocious, and
suspicious of foreigners, than any other among
the confederate tribes of Circassia. This suspi-
cion has been considerably augmented since the
attempt of Russia to subdue them : hence

DEFILE OF JAGllA. 295

every stranger is now regarded as a Russian
spy, and certain of being shot or condemned to
slavery, unless protected by one of their chiefs.

We next cast anchor at the bay of Vadran,
distant twenty miles from Djook. Here com-
mences the famous defile called Jagra, at the
entrance of which the Russians have a settle-*
ment, consisting of a few houses, and the ruins of
a church and a monastery. The latter has been
converted into barracks ; but the Circassians hav-^
ing possession of the upper part of the defile^
and the mountains which command the fort, the
military are momentarily exposed to their attacks,
and almost certain of being shot if they move Out
of their quarters, and not unfrequently this has
been the case in the courtyard of their barracks.

The first care of the count was to visit the hos-
pital, which unfortunately was filled with the sick
and dying soldiers. The medical attendants in-
formed me, with much gravity, that the malady
then raging with such fatal results at Vadran, was
the yellow fever, so prevalent in some parts of
America and the West Indies. Although I do
not pretend to be acquainted with the science of
medicine, yet experience and observation having
in some degree instructed me, I felt quite as-
sured, with all due deference to the learned
disciples of Galen, that they w^ere in error ; and

296 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

that the disorder was in reality the bilious re-*
mittent fever, as the invalids exhibited all the
symptoms which usually characterise that fatal
disorder in the east For instance, great irrita-
bility of the stomachy yellowness of the eyes, a
vomiting of dark-coloured bile, intense headache,
a pain and fulness about the left side, and gene-
rally diarrhoea. At all events, the disease ap-
peared to have made most fearful ravages on the
health of the garrison ; for the whole, not even
excepting the officers, wore an aspect so bloated
and cadaverous, that, instead of being equal to
the performance of military duties, they seemed
scarcely able to drag on a miserable existence.

OREBK CHDHCH BDILT BY JDSTINUN AT PITZODNDA.

LETTER XXVIII.

INCREASED ALTITUDE OP THE MOUNTAINS — PITZOONDA^
EXCDBStON TO THE PORTRESS — SUPERB POREBTS — CON*
TRAST BETWEEN TUB CIRCASSIANS AND THE RUSSIANS—

GBBBKCHURCHANDHONABTBRY EVIDENCES OF CHRISTIAN

FBBLINO STILL EXISTING AHONO THE NATIVES — TRADI-
TION CONNECTED WITH THE CHURCH — ANTIQUITY OP PIT-
ZOUNDA.

Between Vadran and Pitzounda the mountains
rose to a very coosiderable altitude; some
were even crowned with snow, while forests of
gigantic trees covered their sides down to the
water's edge : the country also became more
savage in its aspect, more thinly populated, wild,

298 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

and solitary; and the beautifully undulating
fields I so much admired in Lower Abasia had
totally disappeared.

This was the longest voyage we had made
without stopping, being eighty miles; conse-
quently we experienced no little satisfaction on
entering the vast bay of Pitzounda, a bay not
more celebrated for its excellent anchorage and
the great depth of water, than for its protected
situation, being sheltered against the land winds
by a chain of mountains, and from those of the
sea by an elevated promontory, leaving it only
exposed to the south-east, which, I understand,
from the accounts of our Russian navigators to be
by no means dangerous in this part of the Black
Sea.

The fortress is about two miles distant from
the coast ; to which our way led through a forest
of splendid trees^ partially thinned since the
occupation of the fort by the Russians. The
oak, the beech, and the chesnut were among the
finest of their species : the cherry-trees exceeded
in size any that I had ever seen before, and
appeared indigenous to the soil. The wild olive,
the fig, the pomegranate in full bloom, and vines
of enormous growth wreathed from tree to tree,
breathed luxuriance, and a thousand rare plants
and flowers the most refreshing fragrance.

PITZOUNDA. 299

The weather still continued delightful ; and
towards the close of evening, as we promenaded
through a fertile plain at the foot of the snow-
crowned Alps of the Caucasus, the glowing sun
shooting its slanting beams through the branches
of the trees, we thoroughly enjoyed our little
expedition ; and as we glided through the
mighty giants of the forest, the officers in their
brilliant uniforms, and the ladies in their musKn
robes, formed a striking contrast with the wild
contour of the inhabitants, who, armed with
musket, sword, and poniard, flocked in numbers
to gaze at us.

We were now in the country of the Circassians
of Upper Abasia, whose costume difiered in
some trifling degree from that of the Circassian
noble I described while at Soudjouk-Kale. The
colour of their dress was either dark green or
the autumnal brown, and I thought the cap and
mantle most convenient articles of dress ; the
former, of a whitish colour, is made from goat's
hair in a conical shape with two long ears, which,
hanging over their shoulders, serve as a protec-
tion against rain, and in fine weather form a tur-
ban : a similar head-dress is worn by the Greeks
in the Archipelago. The mantle, also made from
a mixture of goats' and camels* hair, is perfectly
impenetrable to the rain.

300 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

This being the first time I had penetrated so
far into the interior of a country rarely pressed
by the foot of any European traveller, so im-
perfectly known, and so little noticed either in
ancient or modem history, my curiosity was
much excited, and I regarded every object with
the deepest interest. It was also the first time
that I had seen the Circassians mingling on
friendly terms with the Russian soldiers; and
assuredly a more striking contrast than the two
people presented, both in physical appearance
and moral expression, it is impossible to conceive.

The one, with symmetrical forms and classic
features, seemed breathing statues of immortal
Greece ; the other, coarse-looking, short, and thick*
limbed, appeared like an inferior race of beings.
But if the physical line of demarcation was broad,
the moral was still broader. The mountaineer,
free as the eagle on the wing, stepped and moved,
as if proudly conscious of his independence, with
a dauntless self-confidence not unmixed with
scorn, that none but a child of liberty could
exhibit in his bearing ; and which reminded me
of the majestic Albanian, or Scott's Highland
chieftain, when he exclaimed.

My foot's upon my native heath.
And my name's Mac Gregor/'

The mass of the Russians displayed the air and

PITZOUNDA, 301

manner of. men always accustomed to be com-
manded, and to pay the most implicit deference
to the will of their superiors in rank ; but as we
have none such in England, I am at a loss for
a comparison that will afford you an idea of this
sort of bearing in men.

The chief of the tribe inhabiting this part of
the country, who resided some few leagues dis-
tant, is said to be friendly to the Russian govern-

«

ment ; but, much to the annoyance of our party,
he did not make his appearance, although it was
confidently anticipated that we should have had
the pleasure of seeing him.

The fortress is situated in the interior of a
ruined monastery ; to which is attached a church
built in the form of the Greek cross, and in
admirable preservation, when we consider that it
was erected by the Emperor Justinian.

On the extinction of the Byzantine empire
by the Turks, it appears that these fanatics, on
taking possession of Pitzounda, destroyed the
convent ; but whether through the pious inter-
cession of the inhabitants, or from fear of irritat-
ing the people, the church was spared, and now
remains one of the most interesting architectural
monuments in these countries. The vignette
appended to this letter is an exact representa-
tion.

302 VOYAGE UOUND THE BLACK SEA.

Centuries having elapsed since it was used as
a temple of christian worship, it has unfortu*
nately become considerably dilapidated ; but as
the manuscripts, ornaments, and furniture have
been religiously preserved by the natives, I
understand the Emperor Nicholas has given
orders that it should be put in complete repair ;
and although the majority of the people have
embraced the creed of Mahomet, they still regard
the christian edifice with the deepest veneration.
This feeling is carried to such an extreme,
(founded no doubt upon ancient usage,) that
even the greatest malefactor in the adjoining
countries finds within its walls an inviolable
sanctuary from the pursuit of justice.

One of the officers of the garrison related a
tradition, which still further attests the belief of
the inhabitants in the sacred character of the
building. ** Shortly after the subjection of Pit-
zounda to the Ottoman rule, a Turk entered the
church and stole some articles of value : the
natives reproached him with the profanation,
but they received no other answer than scorn for
their credulity, and laughter for their supersti-
tion. The vengeance of Heaven, however,
according to the Circassians, was not slow to
overtake the infidel ; for as he was stepping into
the boat with his sacrilegious plunder, the angel

PITZOUNDA. 303

of death sent fire from on high and destroyed
him, but the sacred relics were left unscathed by
the lightning's blaze ! "

The learned and well informed of our party
concurred in the opinion that Pitzounda must
have been the site of the ancient Pythus, usually
called the Grand Py thus ; and also that it formed
the frontier of the Byzantine empire on this side
of Asia. It is also said, that the inhabitants are
more assimilated to European usages in their
manners, less ferocious in their dispositions, and
less tenacious of their independence, than any
other of the tribes of the Caucasus.

The distance between Pitzounda and Souchom-
Kale is computed to be about thirty miles. In
consequence of the great heat of the weather, we
performed this voyage by night : consequently
my descriptive powers mOst lie in abeyance,
which probably you will not very much regret.
However, from the faint outline I was able to
perceive, the scenery continued to become of a
still more alpine character, and we arrived at
our destination about four o'clock in the morning.

VIEW OF THB BAT OF SOUCHOM-KALK.

LETTER XXIX.

DESTBDCTION OF SOUCBOM-KALE BY THK RUSSIANS DAN-

OBRS TO THB OARRISON FROM THB CUHATS AND THE
ENHITT OF THB NATIVES — VOV A QB TO HKDODT-KALB — IB-
KUBIA AND ANAKRIA — PROVINCE OF HINOBELIA — CHANQED

ASPECT OF TUB COUNTRY INTEBKINABLB FORESTS — A

STORM DAKOEB OF PASSING THB BAR — KHOPI — EXCDB-

8I0N DP THB BIVEB — LANDING AT BEDOUT-KALB DBSO<

LATE ASPECT OF TUB TOWN.

Souchom-Kalb, like Pitzounda, is intereating
for its historical remiDiacences, most antiquarians
agreeing that it is built upon, or near the site of,
the famous Dioscuriaa, which also bore the name
of Sevastopol. This opinion receives addi-
tional confirmation from the remains of the forti-

SOUCHOM-KALE. 305

fications and other ruins in the neighbourhood.
It is now, however, a miserable place, and one
of the most injurious to the health of the Russian
soldiers of any station we had previously visited.

From the accounts of the Turks, we learn that
Souchom-Kale, when in their possession, was a
very considerable town, with a population of three
thousand ; whereas at present it has decreased to
little more than a dozen wretched huts, inhabited
by a few Greeks and Armenians. The reason
assigned by rumour for this extraordinary decline
in prosperity and decrease of population is, that
it was destroyed some years since by the
Russians, in revenge for the treachery of the
inhabitants, who it was said were in the practice
of betraying the soldiers of the garrison into the
power of their enemies the mountaineers, when
they were carried to a distant part of Circassia
and sold to the Turks and Persians as slaves.

The fortress, built in the form of a square, bears
a Turkish inscription over the entrance. It was
in a most dilapidated state, but, as usual, brist-
ling with cannon; and, like all the others I had
seen in Circassia, not intended to repel an inva-
sion by sea so much as an attack by land, which
was evidently the danger principally apprehended,
as guards were stationed in the vicinity with the
same care as if the enemy had been at the gates.

VOL. I. X

306 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

So perilous, however, is the service, that the
sentinels retire at the close of evening within the
walls for protection, when the dogs are turned
out, who are so well trained that they never fail
to give notice of approaching danger. Indeed,
so intense is the animosity of the Circassians in
this district, that no safety exists for the Russian
soldier beyond the walls. If he goes forth to pro-
cure wood and water, he is obliged to be accom-
panied by a guard and field-pieces, in the same
manner as at the fortresses I have already men-
tioned; and notwithstanding all this precaution,
they are every day falling victims to the bullets
of an enemy the most insidious and indefatigable.
Still, I understood from the officers at Sou-
chom-Kale, that they were on more friendly terms
with the neighbouring Circassian tribes of Upper
Abasia, who frequently come down from their
mountains, effect some trifling barter with the
Armenian merchants, and peaceably return ;
the great danger to be apprehended being from
the hostility of the inhabitants of Lower Abasia.
Here we also perceived the very extensive ruins
of a monastery and church, evidently, from its
architecture, of very ancient date.

On leaving Souchom-Kale, we passed close to
the unimportant bays of Iscuria, distant twelve
miles ; Anakria, thirty-two ; together with the

THE INGOUR. 307

ruins of the ancient Kellassour. Anakria, said
to have been built on the site of the once splendid
city Heraclea, in the kingdom of Pontus, is the
most interesting settlement on this part of the
coast^ whether we consider it with reference to its
ancient or modern history. It is situated at the
confluence of the Ingour and Agis ; and even so
late as a few years since, while in possession of
the Turks, was a considerable commercial town,
when it is said to have carried on, in fish and
pretty girls, a very lucrative trade with Stamboul
and Trebizond.

The Ingour abounds with fish, particularly the
sturgeon: therearealso salmon and herrings; the
latter, though diminutive in size, are of the most
exquisite flavour. But, singular to say, like the
Celts of our own country, the natives of these
provinces, and the Tartars of the Crimea, rarely
make use of fish as an article of food. If we may
be allowed to form an opinion from this circum-
stance, and from the general similarity of their
habits, as detailed to us by some Russian officers,
who had been quartered among them for several
years, they would appear to have been originally
of the same family.

Along the whole of this coast of the Black Sea,
particularly between the riverlngourand the Agis,
is found that vei7 rare fish called the cepkahy from

X 2

308 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

whose eggs the most recherche caviare is made,
a delicacy at one time held in the highest estima-
tion by the accomplished gourmands of StambouL
But since the Turks have lost these provinces,
the fishery, which was so profitable to the natives,
has been completely abandoned, and the town of
Anakria nearly deserted.

In truth, the whole of the settlements we had
visited since we left the Crimea, and which figure
on the Russian chart under the high-sounding
appellation of fortresses, whatever they may have
been under the rule of the Turk, consist at pre-
sent of nothing better than dilapidated walls and
intrenchments : most likely the natives, being
Mahometans, emigrated to Turkey, when these
provinces fell under the rule of Russia. Never-
theless, however insignificant, each had a vessel
or vessels of war at anchor before it, which saluted
us, and we of course returned the civility ; and
assuredly, never since the invention of gun-
powder were the natives of Circassia serenaded
with such uproarious music, which must at least
have had the effect of causing them to suspend
their agricultural employments for the more
warlike ones of arming themselves, stationing
picquets, — in short, of preparing to meet the
expected invasion.

A few miles beyond Souchom-Kale, the pro-

DESOLATE ASPECT OF MINGRELIA. 309

vince of Mingrelia commenceSy when we bade
adieu to the deh'ghtful country of Circassia. The
first aspect of Mingrelia was by no means cal-
culated to impress us with a favourable idea of
that Russian province, since the mountains in all
their picturesque variety, that had so longcheered
us on our coasting voyage, now receded from
the shore to a considerable distance, leaving an
immense plain covered with impenetrable forests,
quite as savage in appearance and depopulated
as any I had seen in the wilds of South America ;
but^ beyond these, in the far distance at the foot
of the 'Caucasian Alps, we occasionally caught
a glimpse of the high lands of Imeritia, and
the country of the Circassian Suoni tribes, beau-
tifully laid out in agricultural fields, and so
thickly studded trith cottages, as to indicate a
very numerous population.

On approaching Redout-Kale, the weather,
which had been hitherto delightful, suddenly
changed to violent rain and high winds. The
aspect of the sea was frightful, the waves run-
ning mountains high ; but most fortunately its
worst fury had been spent, as the captain of a
Russian brig of war we spoke with assured us
that it had been blowing quite a hurricane for
several days. It would appear from the accounts
of the Russian sailors, that this part of the Euxine
is frequently visited by storms, particularly in the

310 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

vicinity of the rivers Phase and Khopi, which
they attributed to the clouds and vapours being
driven into this contracted part of the sea and
then intercepted by the Caucasian Alps, until,
after successive accumulations, they burst forth
in tempests, and continue, not like those of
Europe for a few hours, but for days, with
scarcely any interruption.

We cast anchor about half a mile distant from
the mouth of the Khopi, the ancient Cyannes,
with the intention of taking to our boats and
sailing up that famous river to visit the town
and fortress of Redout-Kale ; but this,* in the
present state of the turbulent sea, appeared an
undertaking of some difficulty and no little peril.
The prudence of attempting such a voyage was
long debated, for there was dot the slightest
appearance of an opening through the foaming
bar, that rose like a mountain before us ; indeed,
the whole shore, as far as the eye could reach,
was guarded by a boiling surge resembling a
vast rampart of snow.

At length, the captain of the corvette having
given his opinion that it was possible to cross the
bar, our autocrat, a spirited man, was one of the
first to jump into the boat ; but as there was some
slight appearance of danger, our party, this time
at least, consisted of very few : to the honour,
however, of our fair companions, every one

CROSSING THE BAR OF THE KHOPI. 311

volunteered to accompany us. The consuls of
England and France followed their own timid
counsels, and clung to the ponderous walls of
the corvette, declaring they would not venture
through such a surge, if a kingdom were to be
the prize I

We had, indeed, a severe contest with the
boisterous element ; and as our little barks fre-
quently bounded against the sands, and again
ascended the summit of a mountain wave, not a
few of our party, unaccustomed to such stormy
navigation, exhibited every symptom of intense

fear ; but brave hearts and skilful rowers proved

•

victorious, and we entered the mouth of the
Khopi in safety, though not without encountering
another peril. This was caused by the river being
much swollen by the late rains ; and the moun-
tain torrents having swept down numbers of up-
rooted trees, these were now battling against the
surge at the bar, and interposed a formidable
obstacle to our progress. This also being happily
surmounted, we found ourselves in the river,
which flowed tranquil as a lake, with a depth of
water sufficient to receive vessels of considerable
burden ; from whence we glided onward, without
any further interruption, till we came to Redout-
Kal^, which might have been between three or
four worsts distant.

312 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

About two wersts from the mouth of the Khopi,
we came to another river called the Syba, which,
though narrow, is said to be considerably deeper
than the Khopi. Here the idea immediately
occurs to the traveller, that this would have been
the preferable site upon which to erect a commer-
cial town ; but on inquiry we found that, owing
to the flatness of the surrounding country, it is
often exposed to serious inundations from the
frequency of rain in the Alps, and the number of
torrents that empty their waters into the Khopi.

How easily might this inconvenience be reme-
died by the simple expedient of a few embank-
ments ! A very smalfoutlay of capital would be
sufiicient to clear away the sand at the mouth of
the river, render it navigable, and consequently
improve the fertility and salubrity of the adjacent
country ; for, let it be remembered, that when
the bar is once passed, we enter a depth of water
varying from twenty feet to six or seven, and
extending to a distance of from eight to ten
wersts. The Khopi, which taken altogether is a
fine river, rises in the Alps, from whence it fer-
tilizes, on its way to the Euxine, the plains of
Mingrelia. The whole course of this river is
computed to be about a hundred wersts.

The country in the vicinity of Redout-Kale
presents one monotonous flat ; the soil, of a deep

REDOUT-KALE. 313

dark mould , is rich to exuberance. Here and
there might be seen a marsh of considerable
extent, covered with reeds and sedges, which
had attained in this land of nature a most incre-
dible height, and I do not exaggerate when I say
that the reeds exceeded fourteen feet ; but the
exhalations emitted by these swamps too plainly
told that death lay in their vicinity. Indeed, you
cannot conceive anything more prejudicial to
health than the moist and heated atmosphere of
these countries in wet weather ; the air is then
continually charged with a miasma, the most
relaxing and debilitating to the frame of man.

I was much disappointed in the aspect of Re-
dout-Kale, particularly as, from the accounts I had
previously received, I expected to have found a
very considerable town, populous and commer-
cial ; instead of which, it is one of the most mise-
rable places you can imagine. There was not a
single trading vessel belonging to any nation
whatever in the river ; its spacious bazaars, so
lately filled with the productions of Europe, were
all closed, and the remnant of its sallow-com-
plexioned inhabitants seemed to have nothing
better to occupy their time than to sit the whole
day upon little bulrush mats, smoke the tchi-
bouque, and gaze at the stranger.

This great change in the destiny of Redout-

314 VOTAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

Kale has been effected by the impolitic conduct of
the Russian government, which, ever solicitous to
throw impediments in the way of British industry,
imposed heavy restrictive duties on all foreign
manufactures : these of course operated their
usual effect, that of turning away the channel of
commerce from the town. Prior to this, Redout*
Kale was the great depot for English manufac-
tures on their way to Persia, Georgia, and the
neighbouring eastern provinces of Russia and
Turkey, being conveyed thither from this place
by caravans. The merchant, finding it impos-
sible to sustain himself against so many vexatious
restrictions, removed with his capital and
industry to the more liberal government of the
Sultan, and settled at Trebizond ; since which
time that town has risen, and continues rising,
to a state of prosperity and commercial enterprise
unequalled in any other port of the Euxine.
Thus the Russian government has the double
mortification of seeing commerce, that great civi-
liser of nations, transferred to a power which it
is her interest to weaken, and her own eastern
provinces thrown back on their own inadequate
resources.

Since this event, the Russian government, not
having correctly calculated the consequence of
its restrictive duties, and too late conscious of

REDOUT-KALE. 315

its loss, made several ineffectual attempts, by the
introduction of a more liberal system, to re-esta-
blish commercial intercourse between Redout-
Kale and the European merchants who were
accustomed to visit it. This plan has not, how^
ever, succeeded^ as is ever the case when the
stream of commerce has once changed its course.
Independently of this, there is also another insu-
perable barrier against the prosperity of this un-
lucky town, arising from the great prevalence of
fevers, particularly during autumn, when the me-
phitic air is so powerful, that the stranger is nearly
certain of imbibing infection who merely sleeps
one night within its pestiferous walls. In order
to escape its influence, the merchants and traders
were formerly obliged to hurry on board the ves-
sels lying outside the bar every evening, and
there pass the night ; and if we had no other
evidence, the bloated sallow countenances of the
Russian soldiers belonging to the garrison that I
now saw, sufficiently indicated the noxious quality
of the air.

The attempt to re-establish commerce at this
port having failed, Poti on the Phase, being situ-
ated twenty or thirty leagues nearer the Turkish
frontier, and consequently considered a more
desirable entrepot for commerce, is about to be
declared a free port, with the intention of draw-

316 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

ing away capital and enterprise from the prosper-
ous rival Trebizond. I much doubt, however,
whether the speculation will succeed to the ex-
tent anticipated by the Russian authorities ; for
vessels entering the Phase are subject to the same
inconveniences, from the shallowness of the bar,
as those which pass into the Khopi, and the town
of Poti, owing to the marshes in its vicinity, is
considered by no means a healthy station.

But to return to Redout-Kale : the town is
built for the most part on piles, with the ex-
ception of the main street, which is composed
of a long range of houses, or bazaars, extending
to at least a werst in length : these, which are
only one story high, are all constructed of wood,
with little verandahs in front, and the ground
being low, whenever the river rises beyond the
common height, the town is completely inun-
dated.

While lounging through the streets, I perceived
a greater variety in the dresses of the inhabitants
than I had hitherto seen in these provinces ; and
as each retained their separate costume, Geor-
gians, Persians, Mingrelians, Gourials, and Im-
meritians, were separately pointed out to me :
the whole were armed except the Georgians,
Persians, and Armenians, who simply carried in
a belt of red silk a large poulard with an ivory

REDOUT-KALE. 317

handle : the costume of these was a blouse of blue
cloth, the sleeves open at the elbow, wide Turk-
ish trowsers, and a high cap of black Astrakan
fur.

The dress of the M ingrelians somewhat resem-
bled that of their neighbours the Circassians; but
in general they were very much inferior in per-
sonal appearance, the majority of those we saw
being rather below than above the middle height.
The whole of the inhabitants of these provinces
have the custom, like most eastern nations, of
shaving the head : instead of a turban they cover
it with a thick fur cap, usually of lamb-skin, and
they must have been possessed of most salamander
constitutions ; for though it was now noon day,
and the weather excessively warm, not a few had
enveloped themselves in immense black mantles
made from plaited goats' hair, which must have
been, independent of its inconvenience, a burden
of no inconsiderable weight for the bearer to sup-
port ; but probably, like those of the Spaniard,
they serve the double purpose of a protection
against the heat of the sun and the inclemency
of the weather.

It appears that the peasants of M ingrelia do
not speak the Circassian dialect, which is only
used by the princes and nobles, who claim a com-
mon origin with the untameable spirits of Circas-

318 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

&ia, and never intermarry with the daughters of
any other of the Caucasian tribes. The correct-
ness of this was confirmed by the Russian officers
of the garrison, from whom we received many
interesting detaib respecting these provinces and
their inhabitants, and who represented the nobles
of Mingrelia, and indeed nearly the whole of
those of the Caucasian provinces, as a race alto-
gether distinctfrom their dependants, being every-
where distinguished by the same regular features
and athletic form, the same bold daring and
contempt of danger, as the intrepid mountaineer
of Circassia, whom they also resemble in their
attachment for fine weapons and beautiful horses,
in their impatience of control, love of liberty,
and dexterity in the performance of warlike exer-
cises. It is remarkable, that in whatever country
this singular race have established themselves,
they have been distinguished for the most un-
doubted bravery. In Egypt, under the name of
Mamelukes, although a mere handful of men, it
is well known that they maintained themselves
independent in defiance of the whole force of
Mehemet Ali, who, finding that he could not
subdue them by open force, had recourse to a
massacre so treacherous and horrible, that it
would have disgraced an African savage.

In Mingrelia, as well as in the other Caucasian

REDOUT-KALE. 319

provinces we visited, both noble and peasant
never leave home without being well armed ; and
as this privilege is not usually extended to the
subjects of Russia, we must infer that either her
power is not yet fully established over these coun*
tries, or that she only exercises a species of feu-
dal sovereignty, in which the inhabitants are still
left in possession of their independence. Be this
as it may, their condition has been in many
respects considerably ameliorated since they have
fallen under her sceptre ; they are now no longer
continually exposed to the devastating inroads of
their neighbours the Turks and Persians ; pro-
perty is respected, and no rapacious Pacha can
rob the peasant of his hard earnings : they also
retain many of their laws and institutions, and
are left in a great measure to the rule of their
own princes, while in religion they enjoy the most
perfect liberty of conscience.

Notwithstanding all these privileges, such is
their hatred of foreign rule, that they never
omit an opportuuity of evincing their hostility
towards the Russian government, if not open*
ly, at least by aiding their neighbours the
Circassians, whom it is said they supply with
ammunition, and even frequently join their ranks.
The Russian. soldier may, however, felicitate him-
self upon possessing one advantage over his com-

320 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

rades stationed in the fortresses of Circassia ; be
has only a single enemy to contend with — ^marsh
miasma, rarely experiencing any inconvenience
from the hostility of the natives, with whom he
mingles upon the most friendly terms.

As you may suppose, I felt not a little surprised
on learning that a Mr. Marr, an enterprising son
of Caledonia, was a resident in this very remote
country. He had been originally settled as a
merchant at Redout-Kale, but on the extinction
of commerce in that town, retired into the interior
and became a farmer ; Prince Dabian of Mingrelia,
with whom he is a great favourite, having pre-
sented him with a grant of land. It appears that
the miasma, so prejudicial to the Russian garri-
son on the coast, does not extend into the interior ;
for the officers, who frequently visit the Scot,
informed me that both himself and family were
enjoying the most robust health. His sons, who
had been educated with great care in Europe, on
their return to their father, such is the force of
example, completely assimilated themselves to the
manners of the natives : and the young Caledo-
nians may now be numbered among the most
daring hunters in the wilds of Mingrelia, where
at least they are always certain of finding plenty
of sport ; for besides that the forests abound with
deer, boars, and bears, — buffaloes, sheep, and
horses are frequently met with in a wild state.

RETURN TO ThE CRIMEA, 321

LETTER XXX.

RBTURN TO THE CRIMEA — RUSSIAN SEAMANSHIP — A REAR*
ADMIRAL — FORTUNATE ESCAPE PROM SHIPWRECK — FIRST
VIEW OF MOUNT ELBEROUS — DIFFICULTY OF LANDING AT

BOMBORA TISIT TO THE FORTRESS EXTRAORDINARY

FERTILITY OF THE SOIL NUMBER OF REPTILES — LAND

TORTOISE — HOSPITALITY OF THE ABASIANS TOWN OF

BOMBORA — NOBLE OF ABASIA CHARACTERISTICS OF THE

ABASIANS.

The continuance of tempestuous weather and
violent rains had now taken from our voyage all
its charms, for hitherto we glided over the bosom
of the Euxine, enjoying as much tranquillity and
pleasure as if engaged in a boating excursion on
the calm expanse of one of our own pretty little
lakes in Cumberland ; and our party, who until
now had passed their time in gaiety and amuse-
menty were with few exceptions suffering from
sea-sickness, and of course continually expressed
themselves weary of trusting their enjoyment to
the caprice of so fickle an element. The original
plan, therefore, of visiting the river Phase, the
Russian fortress Kionskia, the Turkish provinces

VOL. I. Y

322 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

Armenia, Sivias, Anadolia, together with the
towns of Trebizond and Sinope, was abandoned,
and our immediate return to the Crimea decided
upon.

Having regained our vessels, the necessary
preparations were made for departure ; but the
storm increasing, and the swell of the sea being
very great, we were obliged to remain at anchor
in the roads during the night. Under these cir-
cumstances, and in order to ensure more fully tlie
safety of his noble freight, our rear*admiral volun-
teered to keep the watch on board the steamer ;
but whether the juice of the grape^ so liberally
circulated at the table of his excellency, or the
malicious influence of Morpheus, had the effect of
steeping his senses in sweet forgetfulness, I know
not ; but certain it is, our rare admiral fell into a
profound slumber, and was only awakened from
his delightful dreams by the loud exclamations of
one of the sailors, who discovered that the anchor
had slipped its moorings, and our little vessel was
fast drifting towards the tremendous corvette.

As a remedy against the danger, the admiral
and the captain proposed tliat the steam should
be immediately got up ! Now all persons con-
versant in any degree with steam navigation are
aware that this undertaking, particularly when the
boiler is cold, cannot be effected in a few minutes.

ESCAP£ FROM SHIPWRECK. 323

and in the present instance our vessel was so
near the corvette, that before the boiler could
have been heated we should have been most pro*-
bably sleeping with the fishes.

Fortujpiately our safety was confided to an abler
guardiftn, for we had on board an English mate ;
his name has now escaped my memory, but of
whose conduct and abilities I cannot speak too
highly. His quick comprehension not only saw the
danger, but provided a remedy, and, like an in-
trepid Briton, at the risk of his life, for the sea
was frightfully convulsed, he jumped into a boat
with two of his best sailors, carrying with him an
anchor ; and, indeed, to his exertions we may prin-
cipally attribute our deliverance from theimpend-
ing peril. The captain of the corvette also aided
his endeavours, so far as circumstances would
permit, by repeated warpings, till the steam was
in sufficient force to set the machinery in motion.

During the whole of this time, as may well be
supposed, the scene on the deck of the steamer
baffled description. Fortunately the women with
their attendants happened to be on board the cor-
vette; but the remaining passengers, aroused from
their slumbers, and exaggerating the danger by
their fears, rushed in their robes de nuit upon
deck, where they stood trembling, — nobles and
serfs mingled togetlier for the first time, and re-

Y 2

324 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

gardless of the pelting rain, remained counting
the moments that were likely to intervene be-
tween them and eternity. Truth to say, the ves-
sels at one time were within a few paces of coming
in collision : if this had taken place, the steam-
boat stood a fair chance of seeing the bottom of
the Euxine, and, from the very heavy surge, I
doubt much whether the boats of the corvette
could have rendered us any very effectual assist-
ance. The weather having changed somewhat
for the better, the following morning we conti-
nued our voyage homeward, for the anchorage
is so bad in the roads of Redout-Kale, that in
the event of another storm occurring, we could
not have anticipated with any confidence shelter
and security.

We now stood out at a considerable distance
from the shore, and occasionally caught, in spite
of the hazy atmosphere, a momentary glimpse
of the Caucasian Alps, whose highest peak, the
stupendous Elberous, rising nearly 17,000 feet
above the level of the sea, seemed like a
mighty pyramid of snow enveloped in clouds
so dark, that from the contrast they appeared
of a jet black.

We had not been long at sea, when it was dis-
covered that the boiler of the steam engine re-
quired cleaning, which obliged us to make for the

DIFFICULTY OF LANDING. 325

first Russian fortress ; accordingly wte reached
Bombora in Abasia the following day, being the
only one that we had not previously visited. To
effect a landing at this place was indeed a difficult
enterprise, there being neither bay, .harbour, nor
any other accommodation for that purpose : add
to this, the storm of the preceding evening had
left a very considerable swell.

In anticipation of these difficulties, the com-
manding officer of the garrison ordered a com-
pany of soldiers to carry the passengers from the
boats to the shore. This was a command more
easy to give than to execute, as it required no
small degree of expertness even to lay hold of
our barks, now tossed on the summit of the wave,
and then plunged into the watery valley : he was
indeed fortunate among our party, who landed
without any other inconvenience than a thorough
drenching ; for several, swept by the violence of
the swell, were obliged to swim for their lives,
the whole forming, as you may suppose, a scene
sufficiently ludicrous to draw forth loud peals
of laughter.

The ladies bravely determined to follow our ex-
ample, and land in defiance of the angry element.
They, however, fortunately fared much better
than we did, the captain of the corvette having
succeeded in running his light gig with the swell

326 VOYAGE ROUND TR£ BLACK SEA.

of the wave bo completely ashore, so as to get be-
yond the reach of the enemy.

After visiting the fortifications on the coast,
and the ruins of a church and monastery built by
the Genoese,. we continued our route to the prin*
cipal fortress, distant about three wersts. Like
that at Pitzounda, our way led for some time
through a dense forest : here we perceived the
box, which in Europe is a dwarf shrub, a perfect
giant of the forest ; the juniper of such colossal
dimensions as to measure fifteen feet in circum-
ference ; and the oak, with the largest leaves I
had ever seen, adorning the valleys and lining the
sides of the lofty hills in such abundance, as to
create the belief that Russia might here alone find
a nursery sufficient to furnish her with wood for
ship-building during centuries.

The arbutus andrachne, the oleander and the
tamarisk, the olive and the fig, the rhododendron
and the pomegranate, were everywhere to be
seen in all their variegated tints and rich lux-
uriance. Besides these, even the earth seemed
covered with the richest plants ; and the most
beautiful blossoms shed around their aromatic
fragrance.

At every step I discovered some new produc-
tion unknown to Europe, aud every breeze wafted
a thousand odours. Nor were the birds that filled

PHANDRA. 327

the air with their delightful warblings, the insects
and reptiles that luxuriated among the long grass
and flowers, less interesting : and I was not more
pleased with their many-coloured plumage and
gaily-painted wings, than astonished at their gi-
gantic size, particularly the common lizard, which
here measures eighteen inches in length, and were
it not from its bright green changing from the
dark hue of the emerald to that of the first leaf
in spring, you might be inclined to suppose it a
young crocodile.

While following the windings of a murmuring
rivulet, the Phandra, the endless numbers of toads
and serpents we encountered, crawling in every
direction in this land of nature, drew from the
more timid members of our party many a shriek.
The latter, of a large species, are not considered
venomous, and a native of the Archipelago or
Stamboul would have been in raptures at the
sight of his much-prized dainty, the land tor-
toise; for we were absolutely obliged to walk
most cautiously, or we should have crushed them
at every step. The natives of this part of
Circassia never use them as food; but in the
countries I have mentioned they are highly
valued for their flavour and nutritious qualities,
and are generally considered to be most efiica-
cious in pulmonary disorders.

328 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

We were much disappointed at not meeting
with Michael Scharavaschedze, chief of the Pso
tribe, inhabiting the neighbourhood of Bombora,
who I understood was educated in St. Peters*
burg, and an officer in the Russian service ; but,
strange to say, although he has long given in
his adhesion to the government, yet we were
told the usual story, that not a single soldier can
absent himself to any distance from the fort with-
out danger of being shot or taken prisoner. In
addition to this, we learned among other things
that the hostility of the natives was increasing,
and that the garrison had suffered considerably
from an attack made by the Circassians some
months previously, and which had been conducted
with a fury and an address they had never before
exhibited. We were also informed, that since
the strictness of the blockade prevents the people
from obtaining a sufficient supply of powder, they
have adopted the expedient of the lasso in cap-
turing the soldiers of the garrison, who are thus
led off to the mountains without being able to
offer any effectual resistance.

After visiting the fortress, we took a lounge
through the little town of Bombora, or Lehna,
as the inhabitants call it, one of the few
towns built by the Circassians, but displaying
no feature distinct from those we find on the

BOMBORA. 329

opposite coast of the Black Sea in Asia Minor.
The few bazaars were kept by Armenian and
Karaite Jew traders, filled with coarse Russian
manufactures, only remarkable for their gaudy
colours, together with a few tinsel gew-gaws
for the use of the peasants, and salt and tobacco.
In one of these bazaars we met a noble of the
country, who had just come down from the moun-
tains to effect some trifling barter : he was com-
pletely armed, and, as is usual with this people,
accompanied by his squire. It would appear that
the natives of this part of Circassia were not in-
spired with more confidence in Russian faith
than was exhibited by their compatriots at
Anapa; for during the whole time the chief
remained in the town, his squire held a loaded
pistol in his hand on the cock : no doubt with
the intention of firing at any one that might
threaten the safety of his lord. The noble,
though a fine daring-looking fellow, seeing himself
surrounded by a crowd of gaily-dressed ofiicei*s
and fair ladies, was evidently annoyed at being
the object of so much observation, and, conscious
perhaps of his hostility to Russia, evinced the
greatest anxiety to depart ; consequently, when
his little commercial arrangements were con-
cluded, he vaulted into his saddle, flew out of
the town and up the sides of the mountains

330 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

like lightning, most probably not considering
himself safe as long as he remained within reach
of the guns of the fort.

While lounging about the town, I observed
several of the natives on horseback ; and though
the spur is no novel appendage to the boot of
a cavalier, yet I confess it appeared a singular
addition to a sandal made from the bark of the
linden, but more particularly when it was attached
to the heel of one who wore neither sandal nor
papooshe^ which was very frequently the case.
The few women we saw were rather tastefully
dressed, with long white veils not altogether in-
tended to conceal the features of the wearer from
observation, as is usually the case with the follow-
ers of Islaraism : hence we had an opportunity
of deciding that they were in general pretty.

The whole of the men were armed with a
poniard, a gun, or a sabre ; ihey kept aloof in
groupes, generally with their arms a-kimbo, and,
to judge from the expression of their counte-
nances, seemed to regard us rather with contempt
than curiosity. Their personal appearance, like
that of their countrymen in general, was in their
favour ; but in these, I thought the aquiline nose
of the Romans predominated. That the Genoese
here had a settlement cannot be doubted. The
ruins of the church not only showed that the

BOMBORA. 331

architecture was Italian, but in wandering through
the broken fragments of tombstones, we disco*

vered one which bore the name of Guisep- .

I also found in Bombora a piece of marble beau-
tifully sculptured, with a Roman eagle and the
characters imp >cm — engraved upon it, which
renders it highly probable that Imperial Rome
had here a settlement.

We purchased from the natives and the Arme-
nian merchants at Bombora, a number of splendid
sabres and poniards of the very finest workman-
ship, and evidently of great antiquity, but so well
preserved, that they appeared as if they had only
yesterday left the hands of the armourer : several
of the blades were engi*aved, or inlaid with gold
characters. There were also full-length inscrip-
tions on some of them, surmounted with the head
of our Saviour, or a saint, which generally ran
thus, — Parmi Dey y par my Rey. — Ne me tire
pas sans raisouy et ne me remets pas sans hanneur.
From the number of weapons found among
this people of .European fkbrication, and said to
have belonged to the Crusaders, it is highly pro-
bable that the natives of the Caucasus were en-
gaged in war against the Christians : or perhaps
the soldiers of the cross, having been captured
by the Turks, escaped from them to the moun-
tains of the Caucasus ; but being considerably the

332 VOYAGE ROUND THE BLACK SEA.

minority in the population, adopted, in process
of time, the manners, customs, and religion of
the natives, and finally became amalgamated
with them.

This opinion is corroborated by a fact, which I
give you on the united testimony of several Arme-
nian merchants who had visited that part of the
country. It appears that at the base of the Cauca-
sus a tribe still exists called Khervisour, who
have preserved among them Christianity to the
present day, and in manners and customs differ
entirely from every other, and are not exceeded
by any in bravery or in their love of independence.
They are still habited in ancient armour, the
figure of a cross distinguishes their bucklers, and
one of red cloth is constantly worn on the breast.
It is generally supposed, from the similarity of
their weapons with those of the Normans and
French of the middle ages, that they are de-
scended from Gallic ancestors.

We were also informed by the Armenian mer-
chants, that in the interior of Abasia, between
Soubachi and the Alps, a greater number of rem-
nants of the ancient Christians exist than in any
other part of Circassia. Several churches are in
tolerable preservation, and, from the accounts of
our informants, must have been fine buildings.
They also assured us that some of them even still

BOMBORA. 333

contained the sacred books and ancient armour
which, according to the traditions of the natives,
were deposited there by a band of christian
warriors as votive offerings, in gratitude for their
deliverance from the infidels. At all events, a
statement of these particulars may serve to guide
the research of such future travellers as may be
disposed to explore this part of the Caucasian
mountains in pursuit of antiquities.

1

336 OBSERVATIONS ON THE RUSSIAN

upon foreign supplies for provisions ; solitude and
pestilence are their companions at home, and if
they seek for amusement from field-sports in the
beautiful country around, an enemy insidious as
the tiger lurks about their path.

Thus, between incessant warfare and pestilence,
so great is the destruction of human life, that we
cannot think any other christian power would
waste the blood of its subjects with such wanton
prodigality ; for I assure you, the un&vourable
picture which truth has obliged me to draw of tlie
Russian settlements in Circassia, so far from be-
ing overcharged, has been but too faintly
sketched ; and what, perhaps, is still more ex-
traordinary, the Russians are not one step nearer
the accomplishment of their object — the conquest
of Circassia — than they were at the first com-
mencement of hostilities on the banks of the
Kouban fifty years ago. Besides, we must con-
sider it the very height of bad policy in a govern-
ment thus to waste the resources of the country
in an undertaking so little calculated to be pro-
fitable, or ultimately successful, and which only
serves as a drain for its soldiers, who might be
much better employed ; for if ever a country
could be termed the grave of a people, Circassia
is that to the soldiers of Russia.

Previously to setting forth on our coasting ex-

SETTLEMENTS IN THE CAUCASUS. 337

pedition round the Black Sea, I heard it very
generally said in South Russia, that the conquest
of Circassia was consummated, that the Russian
flag waved triumphantly over every hill and vale,
and that it was only necessary for the governor-
general to present himself, to insure the submis-
sion of the few hostile chiefs who still obstinately
refused to give in their allegiance. Hence, we
expected on our voyage to have witnessed the
general pacification ; to have beheld humanity
converting a nation from barbarism to Chris-
tianity, How different was the reality from the
anticipation ! No chief waited upon us to tender
his allegiance, and those who pretended to be
the allies of Russia were everywhere absent ! In
short, we found a whole people in arms fighting
for their independence with indomitable bravery,
and the Russian garrisons daily diminishing by
pestilence and the sword.

With respect to the right of Russia to these
provinces, I heard the subject repeatedly dis-
cussed by my Turkish friends at Constantinople,
whose opinions I will communicate to you in a
future letter. At present it is merely necessary
to observe, that the desolating war carried on
against this unhappy people is incompatible with
the character for moderation assumed by the Rus-
sian government, which declares itself to be actu-

VOL. I. z

338 OBSERVATIONS ON THE RUSSIAN

ated in all its diplomatic relations by a desire to
uphold every government as it exists, with a de-
termination to ad vance the progress of Christianity
and civilisation, — ^not by the sword, but by the
olive-branch. In consonance with this principle,
Greece was severed from Turkey ; and in conse-
quence of her cajoling arguments to this effect,
England and France were induced to coalesce in
the arrangement; for, according to her own inimi-
table despatches, ** The whole of Europe de-
manded the pacification of the Archipelago, the
cessation of a strife which threatened serious
danger to the christian world, should the fanatic
Turk triumph in the downfal of the Greek."

Assuredly, then, if Russia has no sinister de-
signs upon the liberties of Turkey and the other
eastern nations, and if she is, as she pretends to
be, actuated by a desire to uphold the interests of
nations, such as she professed to be at the pacifi-
cation of Greece, let her abandon the present
contest with the inhabitants of the Caucasus, — a
contest whose termination is earnestly desired by
every humane man even in Russia itself, many of
whose enlightened inhabitants I heard express
this opinion. Surely the benevolent Nicholas
and his kind-hearted empress, whose characters
are represented by their subjects as replete with
every virtue, cannot but regret the desolating

SETTLEMENTS IN THE CAUCASUS. 339

war that is now reducing a whole country to
misery and ruin.

Must we not think, if Russia were to adopt
another line of policy, if she were to denounce
every idea of conquest, and follow the example
of the Turks by forming with the independent
tribes of the Caucasus commercial treaties,
much might be done towards promoting their
civilisation ? And how easy would it be for her
to colonise these half-deserted countries, — coun-
tries fertile to exuberance, with the superabun-
dant population of Europe. Strabo tells us, that
in his day the province of Mingrelia alone was
so populous, as to be able to furnish two hundred
thousand native soldiers; whereas the inhabitants
of Mingrelia, Gurial, and Immeretia^ in the
present day, do not amount to half the number.
From another ancient writer we learn, that it
was the nursery of the great Mithridates, king
of Pontus, where he not only recruited his army
with its bravest soldiers, but found a never-end-
ing supply of the finest timber for shipbuilding
in its splendid forests ; and during the time
imperial Rome occupied this most fertile pro-
vince, such was the richness of the soil^ that it
produced four crops annually*

In enumerating the advantages that might be
derived frpm these countries to Russia, it is not

z 2

340 OBSERVATIONS ON THE RUSSIAN

easy to explain why that power, who we kuow is
ever anxious to increase its resources and popu-
lation, does not encourage the industrious inha-
bitants of Europe to settle here, by assigning them
grants of land ; for most certain it is, if these fine
provinces were denuded of their immense forests,
and the soil properly cultivated, the profit to the
agriculturist would be immense. It cannot be
that they are not salubrious, for, with the excep-
tion of a small portion on the coast of Mingrelia
and Guriali there are no marshes to be found in
the whole country ; and most of the rivers, which
are partially stagnant from their mouths being
filled up by the accumulation of ages, might easily
be rendered navigable, — thereby adding to the
health and beauty of the country. A great part
of Immeretia and Georgia, that join Mingrelia
and Gurial, cannot be exceeded in fertility
and salubrity. And as the whole of these
provinces are subject, since the treaty of Adrian-
ople, to the uncontrolled rule of Russia, would
it not be infinitely more advantageous to her in-
terests to leave the Circassians at present their
wild independence ; and, instead of maintaining
in their country expensive garrisons, to improve
her own provinces ? Would it not also be pre-
ferable to bestow on them a portion of the cost
and labour lavished on the unimprovable wood-
less steppes of Krim-Tartary ?

SETTLEMENTS IN THE CAUCASUS. 341

Yet siogular to say, for some reason I am
unable to fathom, the Russian government
appears wholly regardless of the welfare of
its possessions on this part of the Black Sea.
It cannot be that they will not repay culti*
vation : the soil is not only adapted to the
growth of every species of grain, but cotton,
tobacco, and indigo. The vine is indigenous ;
all the fruits of the most favoured climes in
Europe are found wild in the woods ; and to
show their value as pasture-lands, the grass
attains a luxuriance totally unknown in Europe.

In fact, the plan that Russia ought to adopt for
the purpose of placing these countries once more
in the position nature designed them to occupy,
is colonisation ; and if we would seek for a prac-
tical exemplification of the descripticm of coloni-
sation peculiarly adapted to these provinces, we
have only to refer to the ver sacrum of ancient
Greece. This system would be still more appli-
cable to the Circassians, who, jealous of their
liberty, regard with suspicion every attempt made
by foreigners to acquire settlements among them.

But the plan of colonisation to which I have
alluded, was founded neither in usurpation nor
injustice, being based solely on commercial pur-
suits, and the mutual interests of nations. To
this the southern countries of Europe, and part

342 OBSERVATIONS ON THE RUSSIAN

of Asia, owe their civilisation ; for Greece at that
time was suffering from a superabundant popula-
tion, invariably the case when a country attains
a high state of civilisation ; and so pressing had
the evil become, that the citizens of the highest
rank, the most distinguished among their coun-
trymen for talents, virtue, and courage, put
themselves at the head of the youth, and, full of
ardour and vigour, founded towns and countries,
even in the midst of savages, on the Mediterra-
nean, the Adriatic, and the Black Sea.

Several of these heroes of ancient Greece were
celebrated by Homer and other writers ; and
there cannot be a doubt that the famous expedi-
tion of Jason was undertaken for the same pur-
pose, as in every country on the Black Sea we
are perpetually reminded of him and his follow-
ers. In the Colchideus a plain still bears the
name of* Argo, the son of Phryxus ; and the
temple of Seucoth was built by Jason himself,
who also founded Idessa, a town in Georgia.
Sinope, in Anadolia, was built by Argo ; and the
once-famous Dioscurias owes its origin to the
followers of Castor and Pollux. There is, even
to this day, a cape on the Anadolian coast called
after Jason.

Tacitus tells us that Jason performed a second
voyage to the Black Sea, when he gave laws to

SETTLEMENTS IN THE CAUCASUS. 343

his followers, and founded new colonies on the
banks of the Phase and the Khopi. In short,
nearly the whole of the population on the shores
of the Caspian Sea, the Iberians and Albanians,
together with the greater number of the inhabi-
tants of Lazestahn and Armenia, still proudly
retain the tradition of being descended from the
noble followers of that great hero and navigator.
And assuredly, if no other proofs existed than
fine features and symmetrical proportions, might
we not deem these suflScient to prove their noble
origin ? The correctness or fallacy of this opinion
will, however, be established when the countries
of the Caucasus are better known, abounding, as
it is said they do, with the medals and ruins of
ancient Greece.

In truth, it is impossible that countries possess-
ing such natural advantages, whether we regard
situation, climate, or productions, should continue
for any lengthened period in their present be-
nighted state. Commerce and steam navigation,
encouraged by the leading powers of Europe in
their desire to maintain peace, will effect in a few
years an entire revolution in the manners, opi-
nions, and customs of the inhabitants of these
countries; and this in opposition to the short-
sighted policy of Russia, who desires to shroud
them in obscurity.

344 OBSERVATIONS OK THE RUSSIAN

This is no visionary expectation. Do we not
already see countHes, scarcely known to our
fathers even by name, now visited by the ships of
civilised Europe, even to the icy regions of the
north ? and travellers, regardless of personal dan-
ger or inconveniences, traversing the most remote
regions, disseminating knowledge, and improving
the character and condition of the inhabitants ?

But to return to our subject of colonisation.
Every consideration, whether of humanity or just
policy, that I can urge to induce the Russian
government to turn aside the devastating sword
. from the humble hearths of the mountaineers of
the Caucasus, will, alas ! I am afraid, be ineffec-
tual. No ; if I were possessed of the eloquence
of Demosthenes, it would avail nothing. Con-
quest! dominion I is, unhappily for their less
powerful neighbours, the actuating principle of the
government, and the majority of the Russian
nobility. Already, in anticipation of the conquest
of Circassia, have the most beautiful, the most
picturesque sites on the coast been pointed out
for the erection of ch&teaux and palaces ; and vain
would it be to search in Russia for such a man
as the disinterested, the noble-minded Jason, to
put himself at the head of a band of colonists,
whose aim would not be so much profit, as the
moral and intellectual improvement of the people.

SETTLEMENTS IN THE CAUCASUS. 345

Without 'entering into the question as to the
justice or injustice of the conquests of Russia,
and their ultimate influence upon the liberties of
Europe, it must be confessed that they are, so
far as regards Asia, followed by the advancement
of civilisation and the march of intellect !— the
people are taught to read, write, pray, obey the
emperor as their sovereign lord, and to regard
with the most submissive reverence their supe-
riors in rank — all admirable in their way* But
I doubt much if civilisation, as introduced by
Russia, would tend to make a spirited people
like the Circassians, who regard independence
as the greatest of all earthly blessings, happier ;
for, besides a thousand imaginary wants that
would then spring into existence, and of which
they are now happily ignorant, accursed gold,
with all its train of evils, would corrupt their
morals and poison their contentment. Thousands
of needy adventurers, armed with the knout,
would overrun the land, and sever for ever the
tie that has bound, from time immemorial, the
clansman to his lord. Then this high-spirited
people, whose extraordinary bravery has been
the admiration of ages, would be reduced to
abject slavery, and their very name, existence,
and country merged in that of their conqueror :
while, to the romantic, the poetic mind, the fall

346 OBSERVATIONS ON THE RUSSIAN

of Circassia would be irreparable, and the world
would never again witness the haughty chieftain
in his coat of mail, marching at the head of his
clansmen to victory or death, nor the noble dame,
or heroic sister, rejoicing in the death of the be-
loved husband, son, or brother, who died in de-
fending the liberties of his country.

It was, indeed, the intention of his excellency
the governor-general, ever anxious to ad-
vance the interests of his sovereign, to establish
a colony of Swiss mountaineers, either at Soud-
jouk-Kale, or Ghelendjik, for which purpose he
was attended during the expedition by a gentle-
man from Switzerland; but such was the
unceasing hostility evinced by the natives
against every measure emanating from Russia,
that to contemplate any such plan in Circassia
at the present moment would be impossible ; for
along the whole line of coast from Kouban-Tar-
tary to the port of Anakria in Mingrelia, the
Russian government does not possess a foot of
land, with the exception of the forts^ or rather
mud entrenchments we visited, and these are
constantly besieged by the indefatigable moun-
taineers.

Thus the amelioration of the half*civilised
inhabitants of the Caucasus, their advancement
in knowledge and all the humanising arts of

SETTLEMENTS IN THE CAUCASUS. 347

social life, which would be the result if commerce
and a proper system of colonisation were intro-
duced by the enlightened inhabitants of Western
Europe, are sacrificed to the self-aggrandisement
of a power whose limits know no bounds, and
to extend which, she is ever ready to trample
upon the rights of every nation too feeble to
resist the force of her arms, and to pay, as the
price of her conquests, the lives of her subjects
and the wealth of her treasury.

Never was I more fully convinced of the truth
of this, than by the spectacle presented during
our excursions on the Circassian coast. And
how much is it to be lamented that Russia, as
a christian power, now that the Turks, with their
ignorance, fanaticism, and superstition, have
been expelled from these beautiful but benighted
provinces, has not adopted a more conciliatory
line of policy with the natives, instead of inflict-
ing upon them all the horrors of war — a
policy which would not only tend to civilise, but
to instruct them in the truths of Christianity.

TARTAB PEASANTS.

LETTEE XXXII.

KKTURM TO THR CRIMEA— BNOUBH BESIDENT^^DRPAR-
TUBE FOR THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIH-TARTABY^

ASCENT OP THE AI-PBTRI SCENERY SINGCLAB STEPPE

ON THE SUMMIT OP THB MOUNTAIN — PBBILOUS DESCENT
— HOSPITABLE BECBPTION AT THB HODSB OP A MOCBZA

— ASPECT OF THE INHABITANTS TARTAR VILLAOB^— OB-

NBRAL CHARACTER OP THE COD NT BY— TENDENCY OP
MAHOMETAN ISM.

We now bade adieu to the Caucasus, steeriog
with a fair wind for the Crimea, where we
arrived, after a delightful voyage of a few days,
and landed at Yalta, some wersts distant from
the country-seat of Count Worrenzow, to which
we immediately proceeded.

RETURN TO THE CRIMEA. 349

Thus terminated my coasting tour, which, so
far as regarded the Circassians, had produced no
other effect than to stimulate my curiosity ; and
this I was determined to gratify at all hazards,
as soon as I had discovered the most practicable
method of penetrating into the interior of the
country. In the interim, I purposed availing
myself of the opportunity 1 possessed to explore
some portion of the ancient dominions of the
Khans of Krim-Tartary.

The south coast of this peninsula, with its
valleys, mountains, and romantic scenery, is not
inappropriately termed the Switzerland of Rus*
sia ; and, during summer, is generally filled with
Russian travellers of distinction, who this year
had come, in greater numbers than usual, to
learn from the governor-general the details of
his interesting voyage : in consequence of which,
the ch&teau of his excellency became the scene
of a series of splendid entertainments : the ves-
sels of war that accompanied us lay at anchor in
the bay of Aloupka : the officers were the daily
guests of the count, and the midshipmen those
of his son, a fine yotith of fourteen.

As the details of our host's hospitable festi-
vities cannot prove interesting to you, I shall
forbear giving them, especially as my taste for
retirement and solitary rambles rendered me, for

360 JOURNEY FROM YALTA TO THE

the most part, an absentee from their gaieties. I
spent my time principally in ascending the lofty
hills, exploring the secluded valleys, and visiting
the peaceful cots of the kind Tartars. I was
also fortunate in meeting several of my country-
men ; for his excellency, being well aware of
their superior intelligence and industry, employs
them in preference to the natives of any other
country. His own splendid chateau at Aloupka,
designed by Mr. Blore of London, and erecting
under the able superintendence of Mr. Hunt,
will remain a lasting monument of English taste.
His steward and homme (Taffaires is Mr. Jack-
son ; his most trusted physician, Dr. Prout ; the
governess of his only daughter, Mrs. Amet ; to
Mr. Upton, an English engineer, he has dele-
gated the construction of the Admiralty docks
at Sebastopol ; and, through his recommendation,
the laying out of the magnificent park and plea-
sure-ground belonging to the emperor at Ori-
anda has been confided to Mr. Ross, a native
of Scotland .

In every person he has selected. Count W.
has been most fortunate ; and, whether we con-
sider their superior talents or exemplary con-
duct, they are worthy of their country. During
my rambles through the Crimea, I was alter-
nately the guest of each ; so that I do not

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIM-TARTARY. 361

depend merely upon rumour for my testimony
in their favour. In the society of the intel-
lectual and excellent Dr. Prout, I possessed a
never-failing resource : and I shall ever remem-
ber with pleasure the days I spent with him and
his amiable family at their pretty little villa at
Marsanda, and the agreeable rides and prome-
nades we made together through the beautiful
scenery in the neighbourhood.

To the accounts of my countrymen I am in-
debted for many interesting details of the Cri-
mea and its inhabitants, — details which it would
have been impossible for me to acquire, if left to
my own unassisted resources. But, above all, I
have to thank the governor-general for the va-
rious facilities he placed at my disposal for the
prosecution of my journey. I was presented
with a firman in the Tartar language, which
would insure horses and other conveniences
during my route. My kind host also permitted
one of his aides-de-camp, Count Galateri, to ac-
company me, together with his dragoman, M.
Courlanzoff, a talented young Russian, who had
recently returned from China.

Our first excursion to the interior of the
country lay through Bagtche-Serai, the ancient
capital of Krim-Tartary ; but, as we had to cross
one of the lesser peaks of the stupendous moun-

362 JOURNEY FROM YALTA TO THE

tain, Ai-Petri, without road, or, indeed, any in*
dication whatever to aid the traveller, we pro-
vided ourselves with a Tartar guide and Tartar
horses, the only animals who, from the force of
habit, can be depended upon in climbing up
these perilous rocks, and descending the steep
declivities.

On leaving the pretty village of Aloupka, the
country gradually ascended, becoming at every
step more wildly romantic : after climbing up a
precipitous alpine pass, through rocks, tangled
brushwood, and trees, we at length attained the
dizzy heights above the sea. Being now at a
very considerable elevation, we enjoyed a most
extensive prospect, comprising some of the boldest
scenery in the peninsula : to the right and left
we had rocks upon rocks, of stupendous magni-
tude, — their craggy summits piercing the blue
ether, here projecting in vast promontories, there
receding, and forming numerous bays, — and be-
fore us the boundless expanse of the Euxine.

The view, indeed, embraced a vast horizon ;
yet, I think, I never beheld a mountain panorama
less varied in its features, nor one in which the
eye becomes sooner weary. This is owing to
the rocks being nearly similar in form, and
almost destitute of vegetation, and to the short
space intervening between them and the sea ;

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIM-TARTARY. 363

consequently, the whole of the beautiful scenery
along the coast (which, for fertility and rural
beauty, cannot be too much admired) becomes
in great part lost, or so diminished in size as to
be scarcely visible, leaving no other objects to
fill up the picture than rocks and water.

Hence the disappointment of many travellers
who have ascended these stupendous peaks, with
the expectation of being rewarded by a splendid
prospect. In short, it is only while wandering
on the south coast, where we find luxuriant
groves of wild mulberries, pomegranates, pears,
figs, laurels, &c., or through its sequestered
valleys, with their interesting rural Tartar popu-
lation, that we are awakened to admiration and
pleasure.

On descending about a hundred paces from
the rock, we arrived at a mountain plateau,
about four wersts in length,— a perfect steppe,
entirely destitute of foliage, or any other object
to relieve the dreary monotony of this solitary
wilderness. From thence we commenced a most
terrific descent, through a dense forest of stunted
oaks and pines ; and neither road nor path pre-
senting itself, our guide seemed to follow the
bed of a dried-up waterfall, for the round loose
stones kept continually rolling beneath our
horses' feet. Dreadful precipices yawned at

VOL. I. A A

364 JOURNEY FROM YALTA TO THE

every angle, so that one false step would have
been sufficient to involve riders and horses in
irretrievable destruction.

I attempted to descend by the assistance of
my own supporters, but soon found it impossible
to maintain my footing : then, as a last resource,
I committed my safety to the noble animal that
carried me, threw the bridle over his neck, and
left him completely to his own guidance. Some-
times, in spite of the sagacious care with which
he stepped, the stones gave way, and he slid
down several yards, until he perceived the root
of a tree, or a large stone, against which he
never failed to plant his foot, for the purpose
of recovering his equilibrium. The instinctive
intelligence he exhibited to avoid falling, was
really admirable ; and we actually arrived, after
a ride of four hours, without the slightest acci-
dent, at the base of the mountain. Sometimes,
indeed, one or other of our party, — particularly
Mr. Richter, an artist from Dresden, who joined
us on the road, — not having been accustomed to
such neck-breaking equestrianism, was more than
once caught in the boughs of the almost im-
penetrable thickets entwined above our heads,
where he hung suspended between earth and
heaven, like the Prince of Israel; but, instead
of being pierced with a spear, he was greeted by
his comrades with loud peals of laughter.

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRiM-TARTARY. 355

The shades of night had just set in as we
arrived at a considerable Tartar village, called
Kokkos, where we were most hospitably enter-
tained by a rich mourza, who slew a young kid
for the occasion, and treated us, in addition, with
several other Eastern delicacies. There were the
never*failing pilaff, the chichlik and kefti, toge-
ther with tarts and preserved fruits of various
kinds. Our beds were also those common to
the children of the East — mattresses laid on the
floor, with cushions and coverlets. The next
morning, at day-break, our coffee and tchi-
bouques were ready ; and, after making another
hearty meal, we recommenced our journey, not
a little gratified with the kind reception of our
hospitable host^ and also with the extreme
cleanliness of every object with which we came
in contact.

Our route lay through a fertile valley, watered
by the Kabarda,''^ a considerable stream ; the road

* The name of an extensive proyince in Circassia. This
is a proof, among many others, that the Crimea at some
former period acknowledged the soyereigntj of the Circassian
chieftains, since many of its forts, rivers, ancient buildings
and districts, are called by names of Circassian origin. Pallas,
the historian of the Crimea, considers the fact sufficiently
established, and the writer of these pages has alluded to the
subject at greater length in his late work entitled " Travels

A A 2

356 JOURNEY FROM YALTA TO THE

was tolerable, and the scenery, if not beautifully
picturesque, at least novel, which epithet was
also applicable in an especial degree to the cos-
tume and manners of the inhabitants. The
rocks which skirted the valley, jutting up per-
pendicularly, and of an equal height, formed a
perfect natural fortification ; appearing in one
place, as if chiselled by the hand of man, and in
another resembling piles of gigantic books laid
on the shelves of a library. The fields were
filled with men, women, and children, either
reaping the corn or engaged in some other agri-
cultural pursuit. Here we saw the mouUah, with
his snow-white turban; the mourza, in his
braided coat and cap ; together with the peasant,
attired in his light jacket, wide trousers, fur cap,
and sandals. In the distance might be seen the
shepherd, with his long crook, seated on a cliff,
surrounded by his bleating flock, and extracting
most doleful melody from his pipe.

Then the women were certainly striking ob-
jects, wrapped completely in the ample drapery
of the white ferredgSj which gave them not only
a graceful but a coquettish air. Sometimes a
youthful dame condescended to present us with
a glimpse of her gazelle eye ; but, finding she

in the Western Caucasus/' when tracing the derivation of
the Circassian race.

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIM-TARTARY. 357

was observed, again imprisoned her pretty cap-
tives behind the folds of her veil. Camels loaded
with heavy packages, and looking most serious
and important, silently and slowly paced along
the road ; and that music might not be wanting^
we were continually greeted with that most in-
harmonious of all sounds, the creaking of the
Tartar wagons : these, being made entirely of
wood, and never greased, formed, when pro-
ceeding in trains, a concert of discords which no
traveller whose ears have sustained the shock
will ever forget.

The appearance of the Tartar villages at a
distance is very singular, having much the effect
of rabbit-holes. This you will readily believe,
when I say that they are generally built on the
brow of a hill, or burrowed into its side ; and,
owing to the circumstance that they consist only
of one story, with a single facade, their flat roofs
being level with the earth above, I more than
once found myself walking on the top of a range
of houses, without perceiving my error.

The interior of these odd-looking dwellings
was correspondingly original. Here sat the men
and women, in true Asiatic style, on the floor,
smoking their long pipes ; or, by way of cool
variety, on the house-tops, or beneath the little
verandas, to catch the few breezes as they passed.

358 JOURNEY FROM YALTA TO THE

The children, with their hair, eyebrows, and
finger-nails dyed red according to the most
approved notions of Tartar beauty, were play-
ing about without any clothing to impede the
freedom of their movements ; their little heads
often decorated with a profusion of coins, and
various amulets to preserve them from sorcery
and the evil eye.

Rich Karaite Jews, and Armenians in their
peculiarly splendid costume, ambled along on
their well-fed mules : these were diversified by
considerable numbers of Swabian colonists, in
precisely the same close cap, short petticoats
of many folds, red stockings, and high-heeled
shoes, that we find in Swabia in the present
day. Neither must I forget to insert in my cata-
logue the gipsies, who, unhappily for the
Crimea, are too numerous. They are the mu-
sicians, showmen, professors of great and petty
larceny ; in short, the worst part of the popu-
lation.

Several of the villages through which we
passed were exceedingly rural : a running stream
was almost invariably the accompaniment ; for
water, in this parched country, for the purpose of
irrigation, is indeed a blessing. Oak, beech, wild-
pear, cherry, and crab trees, lined the sides of the
cliflSs, springing out of every fissure in the rocks ;

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIM-TARTARY. 359

and the valley itself teemed with orchards, green
meadows and corn-fields, occasionally inter-
spersed with the mulberry, fig, pomegranate,
apricot, poplar, and walnut trees, whose luxuriant
foliage not only formed beautiful and fragrant
canopies, and protected us from the scQrching
rays of the sun, but imparted to the little cots a
pleasing appearance of great fertility. The
walnutrtree is very popular with the Tartars;
for as it grows here to an enormous size, we
everywhere find it throwing the broad shade of
its wide-spreading foliage over their humble
abodes.

As the Tartars profess Mahometanism, each
village is adorned with its pretty mosque. How
often do I recal to memory the sound of the
moullah^s voice issuing from the summit of the
unpretending minaret, bidding the faithful to
prayer ! and, though we cannot subscribe to the
veracity of their faith, yet true devotion, whe-
ther exhibited by Christian or Moslem, must
always, we trust, be acceptable to a just and
merciful God ; and I do not believe that the
piety of any people upon the face of the earth
is more sincere than that of the Tartars. We
have the authority of Paley for believing, that
'' the man who is in earnest about religion
cannot be a bad man/' At all events, the

360 JOURNEY FROM YALTA TO THE

•

truth of this observation is exemplified in the
character of this people ; for they are at once
unsophisticated, kind-hearted, hospitable, and,
above all, strictly honest. Indeed, the simpli-
city of the forms of the Mahometan religion
renders them peculiarly well adapted to the
habits of a quiet pastoral people like the Tartars,
and every attempt hitherto made by Russian
missionaries to convert them to Christianity,
has proved abortive.

However, this failure is, in some degree, to be
attributed to their implacable hatred of the Rus-
sians ; and as the creed of Islamism does not
inculcate mercy and forgiveness, this feeling is
very likely to be perpetuated from generation to
generation. Nor can we be surprised at such an
inveterate, enduring animosity, when we hear
the details of the cruelties, rapine, and barba-
rities that were perpetrated upon this unhappy
people by that most unprincipled adventurer
Potemkin and his iniquitous agents ; individual
instances of which were related to me, both by
foreigners and natives, with as much vivacity
and freshness of colouring as if they had only
happened yesterday. Should you feel desirous
of perusing a lengthened catalogue of these atro-
cities, I would recommend to your notice the
life of Catherine II. by T. Castera, said to be

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIM-TARTART. 361

the most correct and unprejudiced of any that
exists, and which was written in reply to the
misrepresentations of Voltaire, who, it is notorious,
preferred Russian gold to truth.

362 BAOTCHE-SERAI.

LETTER XXXIII.

■

BAGTCHB-SBRAI AS IT IS— PALACB OF THE KHANS —
SINGULAR ARABIC INSCRIPTIONS — WANTON BARBARITY
OF THB RUSSIANS — BNVIR0N8 — iGIPSY VILLAGB — INHA-
BITANTS — ANCIBNT CHURCH AND CONVENT — VISIT TO

THE JEWISH FORTRESS TSCHOUFOUT-KALB — CEMETERY

NOTICE ON THE RELIGION OF THE KARAITE JEWS,

The country declined much in fertility and
beauty, on approaching the capital ; and we
now first entered upon the tiresome uniformity
of the steppes of the Crimea. It was very thinly
inhabited, and, owing to the entire absence of
foliage, we suffered severely from the heat of
the sun, which obliged us to rest during the
middle of the day at the house of a mourza
(nobleman) situated a few miles distant from
Bagtche-Serai, where we remained till late in
the evening. Having no better employment, I
occupied myself in sketching his farmyard,
though, truth to say, its chief merit consisted in
being highly characteristic of the simple habits
of that patriarchal people, the Tartars. Soon

4 I

BA6TCHE-SERAI. 363

after resuming our journey, we commenced
descending the valley in which Bagtche-Serai is
built ; and, notwithstanding it has lost the whole
of its 'magnificence, and not more than one
third of the town had escaped the devastations
of the Russians, yet enough still remains to
render this residence of the Khans of Tartary
highly interesting — more especially as it is the
only town in the Crimea to which Catherine II*
conceded the privilege of being exclusively in-
habited by a Tartar population : consequently
we here find the national character preserved
in its purity.

The situation is highly romantic, being built
partly on the banks of the Djourouk-Sou, and
partly on the craggy sides of two steep rocky
mountains which enclose the valley. The as-
pect of the buildings, the manners, customs,
and costumes of the inhabitants, are strictly
Oriental. There are bazaars, mosques, with their
minarets, chiosks, and cemeteries, groves of
cypresses and black poplars, terraced gardens
and vineyards, that appear to hang in air ; and,
more than proud Stamboul can boast, the eye is
everywhere delighted by the aspect of its bub-
bling fountains and ever-running crystal springs.
The streets, in accordance with the custom of
the East, are narrow and badly paved ; and that

364 BAGTCHE-SERAI.

running through the centre of the town is at
least a werst in length. Here we see every trade
and handicraft, from that of a builder to a pin-
maker, exercised in public by the industrious
inhabitants : even the usual domestic occupations
are carried on in the streets ; and this town being
the grand depot for the sale of the (ruitSi tobacco,
flax, and com of the surrounding country, I often
found my passage through the narrow streets
completely blocked up by pyramids of some of
these articles.

We took up our abode at the palace of the
Khans, the most splendid and interesting Tartar
building in the Crimea. The Russian govern-
ment, in making the necessary repairs, had the
good taste to preserve its original character, even
to the colour of the painting, paper, &c. The
furniture, which is not yet entirely completed, is,
I understand, also to retain its original forms.
Here we have the seraglio, with its gardens and
baths, the turreted chiosk, the elegant mosque,
the hall of audience, with its latticed gallery,
where the favourite dames of the Khan were
allowed, unseen, to contemplate the brillant as-
semblage of nobles, warriors, and senators be-
neath. In short, here you have everything as
it existed in the days of the last Khan, the
heroic Selim Guerai, except inhabitants : these

BAOTCHE-SERAI. 365

the imagination must supply : for now all is
silent — silent as the grave ! No footstep
echoes through its lofty gilded halls, save that of
the keeper ; no mouUah, from the graceful mi-
naret, calls the faithful to prayer ; no fair captive
now sighs for liberty within the ramparts of a
seraglio prison.

The palace, mosque, and fountains, abound with
inscriptions in the Arabian language, the greater
part extracted from the Kor&n ; while others
inform us of the name and rank of the Khan
who erected this particular part of the building,
mosque, or fountain. I shall merely trouble you
with a translation of one or two, which will
amuse you, and, at the same time, give a cor-
rect idea of the singular idioms of the lan-
guage. Not altogether depending upon my own
knowledge of Arabic, I was indebted to my com-
panion, M. CourlanszofF, who is an accomplished
Arabic scholar, for the following. We shall com-
mence with the inscription over the great gate
of the palace :

" This magnificent gate was constructed by the command
of the illustrious Sovereign of two seas and two empires,
Khadgi Gu6rai Khan ! son of Mengli-Guerai Khan Sultan,
son of a Sultan I Anno 959."

Above the principal entrance of the royal
mosque of the Khans we have the following :

366 B AOTCH£-S£RAI .

<< Who was Khadji-Selim ? The most illustrious of all
the Khans of Krim-Tartary. The hero by God's divine
power I May the Almighty God, in his supreme kindness^
recompense him for the erection of this mosque !*'

" Selim Gu^rai Khan, the son of his love, is a rose !
Each rose descended from him sat in his turn on the throne,
and was crowned with honours in the seraglio I The rose,
now in full bearing, has become the Padischah, the lion of
the Crimea, Schlamet Gu^rai Khan I In this, God hath
fulfilled my desire. It is alone to the honour of the Almighty
Supreme that this mosque has been completed by Schlamet
Guerai Khan ! Anno 1 153."

From several sentences of the Koran on the
windows of the interior of the mosque, I have
selected the following : —

<< Oh, great Prophet I through thy divine inspiration the
whole earth has been enlightened."

The fountains, constructed with great beauty
and elegance, have also their separate inscrip-
tions. Over that called Selsebil is placed

<< Glory to God most Omnipotent I*'

^' Rejoice I rejoice I Bagtche-Serai I For the enlightened
Krim Guerai Khan, ever benevolent, and solicitous for your
welfare, discovered this excellent spring of the purest water :
and thus, through his own generous and munificent hand,
satisfied the thirst of his children. He is, moreover, ever
ready, aided by the inspiration of Almighty God, to render
you still greater benefits V*

<<If there exist such another fountain in the universe,
let it be found I The magnificent towns of Scham and

BAGTCHE-SERAI. 367

Bagdad have assuredly seen many glorious things; but
they never witnessed so magnificent a fountain I

^ Chegi, the author of this inscription, like a man tormented
with thirst, traced the lines upon this most beautiful of all
fountains, in such a position that they cannot be read except
through its crystal stream, which descends through pip^
fine as the fingers of a lady's hand. What does this indicate ?
— an invitation to drink of this pure transparent water,
gushing from its unfailing source, and which insures health I
Anno 1170;*

The architecture of the palace, mosques, and
public buildings of the town, is neither imposing
nor splendid, being mefely interesting from its
novelty ; but you cannot imagine a prettier pic*
ture than the town exhibits when seen from the
surrounding heights. The suburbs extend far
and wide, intermingled with villas, chiosks, gar-
dens, and water-mills ; while the number of
mosques, with their domes and minarets, and the
forest of small towers, (for every chimney is built
in this form,) all contribute their aid to increase
the beauty and variety of the general effect.

Bagtche-Serai, which literally means a palace
in a garden, still contains thirty-two mosques,
besides two or three Tartar universities, and
several extensive khans for the accommodation
of travellers. If we are to credit the ac-
counts of the inhabitants, while lamenting over
the ruins of their once splendid capital, it must,

368 EXCURSION TO TCHOUFOUT-KALI.

in truth, have been a most magnificent city
before the conquest of the Crimea by the gene*
rals of Catherine. In taking possession of the
ill-fated town, the wanton barbarity and atrocity
q{ the conquerors almost exceed belief ; for,
besides pillaging the inhabitants, the very tombs
were violated in search of treasures, and whole
streets demolished, merely through an insane
passion for destruction.

One of the most beautiful country-seats of the
khans in the environs, which^ it appears, was a
perfect miracle of ingenuity and neatness, was
entirely erased from the earth. But the most
singular chapter in the history, and which
Clarke confirms in his Travels through the
Crimea, is, that one populous suburb, inhabited
by a colony of Greeks, containing upwards of
six hundred houses, was totally destroyed, not-
withstanding the victims were their own co-
religionists.

With such sources of wealth at his command,
we cannot feel surprised at the lavish expenditure
of Potemkin, nor at the multitude of tempo-
rary palaces he erected for the gratification of
his august mistress, when she most graciously
condescended to visit her newly conquered sub^
jects. It is to be hoped, nay, we will charitably
feel assured, that Russia, in her next conquest,

GIPSY VILLAGE. 369

Will be actuated by feelings of humanity consonant
with the enlightened age in which we live.

The environs afford a variety of agreeable
excursions : the most interesting is that to
Tchoufout-Kali, of which we speedily availed
ourselves. We journeyed through a steep de-
file, along the banks of the roaring Djourouk-
sou. The road, or at least what by courtesy
is so termed, fatigued our horses excessively,
owing to its being composed of round slippery
stones, worn smooth by the action of the waters ;
and the gigantic rocks, without the slightest
foliage, by attracting the sun, rendered the
heat of the atmosphere almost insupportable.

After advancing some little way through the de-
file, our attention was attracted by a tremendous
uproar ; and, on turning a curve of the road, we
came at once upon a gipsy village, presenting a
scene not easily paralleled. Bears were bel-
lowing, monkeys and children screaming, dogs
barking, drums beating, pipers playing, women
scolding, men fighting, and smiths and tinkers
hammering, — altogether forming a charivari
which, fortunately for men's ears, does not often
assail them. Nor was the appearance of these
people less remarkable than their noise : the ma-
jority of the children were entirely naked ; and
their parents nearly so, having no covering but a

VOL. I. B B

370 EXCURSION TO TCHOUFOUT-KALI.

pair of wide trousers ; those of the women differ-
ing but little in form and colour from those of the
men. The whole, whether basking in the sun
or at work, were incessantly smoking from little
short pipes made of boxwood. In short, they
exhibited a picture of human degradation and
misery, such as 1 have not often witnessed, even
among the most savage tribes. Their dwellings
consisted merely of scattered tents, and holes bur-
rowed into the sides of the soft limestone rocks
that towered above them. Their habits appeared
filthy in the extreme ; for, besides the stench
arising from the numerous animals with which
they lived in common, the immense volumes of
tobacco smoke, and the smell of onions and
garlic, formed an odour altogether so unsa-
voury, that we heartily wished ourselves out of
its vicinity.

On hearing the sound of our horses, the
whole motley multitude started on their legs,
and rushed towards us ; when pipei*s, drum-
mers, fiddlers, dancing-dogs and bears, tumbling-
monkeys and naked children, young fortune-
tellers and old witches, all performed before
us in their respective characters. A handful
of kopecks, for which they most reverently
kissed the hem of our garments and wished
us a happy journey, delivered us from their
importunities.

MMU

MONASTERY OP THE ANCIENT CHRISTIANS. 371

In the midst of all this wretchedness, I could
not help remarking the well-formed proportions
of the men — their fiery eyes and animated
countenances. Nor were the fine features of the
women, the large, full, dark eye, and jet black
hair hanging down in natural curls on their
shoulders, less admirable ; and although, from
continual exposure to the weather, they were
nearly as dark as Indians, yet those still young
were really beautiful. But this distinction does
not long characterise the women of the East,
particularly this migratory people ; for those
more advanced in life were the veriest personifi-
cation of what you might imagine witches to be,
— haggard, withered, and wrinkled.

Soon after leaving this tumultuous rabble,
we perceived the monastery of the Assumption,
which appeared suspended, like an eagle's eyry,
on the side of a range of stupendous rocks.
This singular efibrt of human labour is sup-
posed to have been the work of the persecuted
Christians of the early ages. Here we found
the cells of the monks, corridors, refectory,
and church, hewn out of the solid rock, and
supported by massive columns, altogether form-
ing a fortress perfectly impregnable ; for the
only entrance is up a flight of steps cut in the
rock to a drawbridge, which being once re-

B B 2

372 TCHOUFOUT-KALI.

moved, the inmates are perfectly secure from
intrusion. The church has been recently re-
paired by the Russian government ; and, after
being closed for centuries, divine service is
now regularly performed in it.

The subterranean convent and church, how-
ever interesting, are quite equalled, in the curious
nature of their position, by that of the fortress
Tchoufout-Kali, about a mile higher up the defile.
This very remarkable fortress is built upon the
summit of an isolated peak of the same range
of rocks; and so steep and precipitous is the
approach, that, in order to reach it, we were
obliged to climb rather than walk. Being com-
pletely surrounded by high massive walls, in
great part hewn out of the rock, and having
only two gates, which form the sole communi-
cation with the exterior, the inhabitants, if re-
solute to defend themselves^ might, with perfect
security, bid defiance to any attack from with-
out.

We have no authentic record by what people,
or at what epoch, this impregnable fortress was ori-
ginally constructed. Some antiquaries, ground-
ing their opinions upon vain traditions, assert
that it was founded by a congregation of the
persecuted Arians, who, we know, fled to rocks
and caverns; while others, upon no better

CHARACTER OF THE KARAITE JEWS. 373

authority, assign the honour to the Cimmerians,
the aborigines of the Crimea, who, on the invasion
of their country by the Scythians, took refuge
in the mountains and inaccessible rocks. But
for what reason it received the Tartar appellation,
Tchoufout-Kali, (Fortress of the Miscreants,) we
are no better informed than as to its origin.

This little fortress town contains abont three
hundred houses ; the streets are exceedingly nar-
row; the pavement is the solid rock, and the
whole kept remarkably clean by the inhabitants,
who are, without exception, Jews of the Karaite
sect. Their moral character is unimpeachable,
their honesty proverbial ; and so highly esteemed
are they by the government, that they enjoy
more extensive privileges than any other of the
tribe inhabiting the Crimea.

On entering the town we were immediately con-
ducted to the house of Rebi Youssouf, the rabbin
or principal chief of the whole of the Israelitish
Karaite sect in these countries. . This venerable
elder of the church received us in the most
friendly manner, and not only regaled us hos-
pitably, but entertained us with his animated and
intelligent conversation. After our repast, he
accompanied us to the synagogue, an antique
building, differing in no respect from the gene-
rality of Jewish places of public worship. Here

374 CEMETERIES OF THE EAST.

we were shown a manuscript of the Old Testa-
ment, commencing with the first book of Joshua,
and so very ancient that no tradition exists
among the people of its date.

From thence we passed into an adjoining
gai'den, solely appropriated to the celebration
of the Feast of Tabernacles, and continued
our promenade through the town, to a steep
flight of steps leading down to what is termed
the Valley of Jehosaphat, situate in a chasm
of the rocks. This is the cemetery of the sect,
resembling a beautiful grove, shaded by the
dark foliage of a thousand trees, forming a
striking contrast to the white marble tombs,
and gloomy beetling rocks that seem to threaten
destruction at every step. Here several tombs
were pointed out to me, bearing inscriptions in
the Hebrew language so far back as the four-
teenth century ; thus proving the present tribe to
have been in possession of the fortress at least
since that period. The trees also exhibit an ap-
pearance of great age, and are held so sacred,
and so highly valued by the Karaites, that their
former masters, the khans of Krim-Tartary,
when in want of funds, had only to threaten
their extirpation, in order to extort heavy con-
tributions from the pious inhabitants.

You cannot imagine anything more interest*

I

RELIGION OF THE KARAITE JEWS. 375

ing or affecting than the cemeteries of the East ;
for, whether appropriated as the last resting-place
to Christian, Jew, or Moslem, they are equally
the delightful promenade, the peaceful retreat,
shaded by the weeping ash, the tall cypress, and
the wide-spreading plane. I never yet visited
one without witnessing some proof of the re-
verential piety with which these people regard
the dead. Here, the mourner was sorrowing
over the loss of a dear relative ; there, adorning
the tomb with flowers, or some other memorial
of afiection. We cannot, however, wonder that
the silence of the cemetery is so frequently
sought by the inhabitants of these countries,
when we remember the belief is general, that
the souls of the departed hover round their
earthly tenements, and also about those whom
they have loved while living. Hence, when the
Oriental, depressed by misfortune, would seek
consolation, or, elevated by prosperity, desires
sympathy, he repairs to the field of the dead,
and communes with the spirits of his forefathers.
A few additional details of the manners and
religion of the Karaite Jews, a people so highly
esteemed for their moral qualities, and differing
so widely from the character of the Talmudists,
may perhaps be interesting. It appears that the
name of the sect is derived from Karai — the

376 R£L1GI0N OF TH£ KARAITE JEWS.

m

Written Word ; their creed being founded ex-
clusively on the text of the Old Testament as
it stands, pure, simple, and uncommentated ; re-
jecting in toto the traditions and interpreta-
tions of the rabbins, and also those established by
the authority of the Talmud. From this latter
they also differ in various other particulars ;
for instance, in their degrees of consanguinity,
mode of circumcision, diet, and marriage — per-
mitting polygamy, which, however, through the
influence of custom, is not practised. They
trace their origin, as a sect, to the dispersion of
the Israelites at the Babylonish captivity ; and
they attribute to their long residence among the
heathen, and to the scarcity of written copies of
the law, the introduction of a variety of errors
and fallacious traditions. Hence, on the re-
establishment of the tribes, finding the scriptures
loaded with comments, a large portion refused to
receive them. These called themselves Karaites,
and in after days were dreadfully persecuted
by their brethren.

The Karaites also assert that our Saviour was
a member of their community, and that he enter-
tained the same opinion as themselves with re-
spect to the interpolations of the rabbins : in
support of which belief, they adduce his repeated
and violent denunciations against the rabbinical

RELIGION OF THE KARAITE JEWS. 377

interpretations, and most positively deny that
any member of their sect was, in the slightest
degree, implicated in the crucifixion. These
people likewise believe that they possess the only
authentic copy of the Old Testament extant.
Like the Quakers, they provide amply for their
own poor ; are principally engaged in commerce,
and generally wealthy. We also frequently meet
with them, in Poland and Gallicia, where they
are highly esteemed, and enjoy the same privi-
leges as the Christians. Perhaps no religious
sect educate their children with greater care, the
whole, without exception, being publicly in-
structed in the synagogue. From this solicitude
also originates the separation of the books of the
Old Testament ; the Pentateuch being reserved
as a guide of faith and morals for the young ;
while the perusal of the remainder is deferred
till time shall have matured the intellect. This
division they trace to the usages of their fore-
fathers from time immemorial. In their dress
they resemble the Armenians, wearing long flow-
ing robes, and on the head a high fur cap.

378 VALLET OF BAIDAR.

LETTER XXXIV.

VALLEY OP BA1DAB — SCKNBRY — HOSPITALITY OP THB TAR-
TARS—PASSAGE OP THB MERDVBN — TBRRIPIC DBSCBNT

SINGULAR CONSTRUCTION OP THE ROAD — ARRIVAL AT
ALOUPKA.

We took a different route on our return to
Aloupka, when we passed through the charming
valley of Baidar ; and no part of the Crimea, not
even the beautiful vales on the south coast, has
been so highly extolled as this valley. It has
been described by one as '^ far surpassing John-
son's Abyssinian vale ;" by another, as " a ter-
restrial paradise ;" by a third, as the " Tauric Ar-
cadia ;" and even Lady Craven has given it the
high-sounding title of the " Crimean Tempe !"

As I do not wish to disappoint future travel-
lers, I assure you, without the slightest intention
to underrate the beauties of the valley of Baidar,
that we have a hundred quite as delightful in
Great Britain, the only difference being in cli-
mate and productions ; and if we have not a
cloudless sky, we are exempt from the burning
heat of the sun ; if we cannot boast of the fig,

SCENERY. 379

the pomegranate, and the olive, our trees are at
least far more splendid, and our verdure far more
refreshing ; with the advantage of being every-
where watered by a noble river— always the
principal ornament of, and absolutely necessary
to complete, a picturesque landscape.

The valley of Baidar is deficient in this charm
of rural scenery ; for it has neither lake nor
waterfall, and its tiny stream barely deserves
the appellation of rivulet. Neither are its
mountains sufficiently lofty to be called sub-
lime, nor its rocks grotesque enough to amuse
the traveller. Still, notwithstanding all this, it
is a very pretty valley ; and a poet might sing
sonnets in its praise, without resorting to in-
vention. Being about fifteen wersts (ten miles)
in length, and six or seven in breadth, and
surrounded by romantic hills, the eye can roam
at once over all its beauties, and they are not a
few.

Besides, as these Arcadian fields are protected
from the cold wintry winds, and irrigated by
numerous bubbling springs, the productions of
more southern climes attain the highest perfec-
tion. Indeed, everywhere, while wandering
through this lovely valley, we are delighted with
its rich orchards and vineyards, green fields,
rural pastures, and neat Tartar villages. Here

380 HOSPITALITY OF THE TARTARS.

I saw some of the finest oaks and most luxuriant
com in the Crimea ; and among all the other val-
leys I beheld I none equalled it in fertility. There
is also a degree of independence in the bearing of
the Tartar inhabitants which is always agreeable
to an Englishman^ and they appeared to com-
mand all the comforts of life.

We passed the night at one of the pretty vil-
lages of this valley, called Kalendia, where we
found, as usual among this primitive people, a
kind reception, smiling faces, and, as far as their
slender means would permit, good cheer. One
of the most beautiful traits that distinguish the
character of the Tartars, is their hospitality ; no
traveller, however unknown, whether Jew, Turk,
or Christian, ever applied, even in the poorest
hamlet, without being certain of having his wants
supplied.

In every town and village of the Crimea, a
khan, or species of inn, has been established,
from time immemorial, called the Oda, expressly
set apart for the reception of the stranger, where
he is supplied with a divan for a couch, fire, and
refreshment, free of expense. It is generally
the moullah (priest) who takes upon himself the
benevolent office of entertaining the stranger ;
but though, as I before observed, remuneration
is never demanded, it is expected, out of courtesy.

PASSAGE OF THE MERDVEN.

381

that the wealthy will present a small gratuity,
which is always thankfully received.

It may be necessary to mention, for the in-
formation of travellers in the Crimea, a country
nearly destitute of inns, that should a stranger
arrive in a town or village unprovided with the
necessary travelling firman, &c., and may re-
quire redress for any grievance, or experience
difficulty in procuring a relay of horses, or ac-
commodation for the night, he has only to apply
to the proper officer, whose duty it is to see his
requisitions complied with, and he will be in-
stantly attended to. In a village where the
population does not exceed a hundred, this
officer is called the On-Bachi ; and when above
that number, the Uz-Bachi.

To avoid the intense heat of the day, we re-
commenced our journey the next morning, long
before the dawn, when we crossed, on our way
to the south coast, the famous passage of the
Merdven, the Pant-Diable of the Crimea. The
road, or bridle-path, is carried partly through a
deep ravine, and partly up the perpendicular
side of a rock of terrific elevation : the difficulty
of constructing such a miraculous road you will
easily conceive, when I tell you, that if we
take only one length of it, — ^for instance, eight
hundred paces, — we shall find that it contains

382 PASSAGE OF THE MERDVEN.

forty zig-zag stories, one above the other. Per-
haps the annexed sketch will convey to you a
more correct idea of this very remarkable pas-
sage than even a lengthened description. There

is no tradition extant, at what epoch or by what
people this work was constructed : it is, how-
ever, conjectured, that nothing but the com-
mercial spirit of ancient Greece could have sur-
mounted the difficulty. We may compare it,
without exaggeration, to a voyage in the air;
and yet such is the surefooted ness of the Tartar

ARRIVAL AT ALOUPKA. 383

horses, that they perform it with the utmost
facility.

I have frequently traversed dangerous passes
in other mountainous countries; but none so
remarkable, precipitous, or bold. The view also
from the summit is strikingly grand, compre-
hending the Euxine, and a great part of the
southern coast; and I can with confidence
assure the traveller who may be inclined to
perform this pilgrimage, that he will not be
disappointed.

Having surmounted our difficulty, and sup-
ported, as best we might, the rays of a burning
sun, we descended a similar neck-breaking pass,
till we came to the village of Koutschouk-Koi,
hanging upon the precipitous sides of a rock,
where, having taken some refreshment, we pro-
ceeded by a narrow bridle-path among the
rocks; and, being at a considerable elevation
above the sea, enjoyed at every turn a new
landscape of some of the boldest and most pic-
turesque scenery in the Crimea, till we arrived
at Aloupka, only just in time for a grand enter-
tainment given by Count Worrenzow, for the
first time, in the noble salle'd-manger of his new
chateau at Aloupka.

384 SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

LETTER XXXV.

CHATEAU OF COUNT WORRBNZOW AT ALOUPKA — ITS ABCHI-
TBCTURB — PLKASU RE- GROUNDS — MARSANDA -— IT8 TILLiA
—SITUATION AND PARK — VILLAS OF THE RUSSIAN NOBI-
LITY — THE EMPBROR*S PARR AT ORIANDA — THE CRIBCBA
UNFAVOURABLE TO THE GROWTH OF FOREST TRBES— FETB
CHAMPBTRB GIVEN BY GENERAL COUNT DB WITT.

1 SHALL now proceed to give you a short
description of the south coast of the Crimea. Its
picturesque beauties have been already so often
sung by poets and travellers, that any praise of
mine would be superfluous. Having, in a former
letter, given you an account of its most striking
beauties, I shall merely at present confine my-
self to a few criticisms on the grounds and villas
of the Russian noblemen that adorn it.

We shall therefore commence with Aloupka,
where the governor-general, Count Worrenzow,
is building a ch&teau, which, if completed accord-
ing to the original plan, will be undoubtedly the
most splendid baronial castle in the Russian em-
pire ; as that portion already finished cannot be
surpassed for the beauty, solidity, and pure taste

CHATEAU OF COUNT WORRENZOW. 385

of the architecture. The noble proprietor is
extremely fortunate in having, in the immediate
vicinity, the most excellent stone for building, of
a beautiful colour, and as hard as granite, found
in the bosom of a spent volcano. But, however
we may admire the fine taste and beauty of the
architecture of this really magnificent edifice, we
cannot extend it to the judgment which selected
this site for its erection, which, I understand,
was chosen by a French architect. Fancy a stu-
pendous rock, towering to the heavens, nearly
destitute of foliage to its summit, with just as
much space of fertile ground between it and the
sea as w^ould suffice an English farmer for a
turnip-garden. To be sure, there are many pretty
little things to admire, in the shape of caverns,
defiles, a spent volcano, grotesque rocks enclos-
ing petty paddocks blooming with flowers, tiny
cascades, bubbling fountains, artificial ponds, &c.,
but all so diminutive, and contracted into so
small a compass, that, when compared with the
stupendous castle they are intended to adoiii,
they appear like babies' toys, the very work of
children. Whether we sit in the drawing-room,
wander through its lofty hall, or ascend its tur-
reted battlements, we have no other view than
the sea on one side, which, from constant repe-
tition, becomes monotonous ; and, on the other,

VOL. T. CO

386 SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

the coldy barren sides of the gigantic Ai-]
together with a few vineyards, and a Tartar
village with its little mosques ; — by-the-bye, the
most picturesque feature in the landscape.

Such a castle, frowning down in its lofty
grandeur, would have been most characteristic
of bygone days, when force was law ; it would
then have been admirably adapted for levying
contributions on the passing traveller, or the
mariner who, from distress of weather, or teme-
rity, might approach the lordly coast ; but, in
the present enlightened age of good government,
the dwellings of the great and wealthy are con-
nected in our ideas with more peaceable accom-
paniments. We expect to see the green, undu-
lating lawn adorned with the wide^-spreading
foliage of its noble trees ; the extensive, well
laid out park animated with the gentle fawn and
the graceful deer ; with here and there, in the far
distance, a glimpse of agricultural fields, clothed
in their many tints and shades, intermingled with
the bright silver of the meandering stream, and
meadows and pastures chequered with their nu-
merous flocks and herds. These pastoral and
truly picturesque scenes, which, from their va-
riety, impart additional beauty to the sublime
grandeur of mountain, rock, and glen. Count W.
can never enjoy at his proud chateau of Aloupka ;

MARSANDA* 387

for what wealth, what power, what art, can re-
move mountains, or change the flinty rock into
fertile fields ?

The traveller who rambles over the south
coast of the Crimea, and visits Marsanda, also
the property of the count, and only distant from
Aloupka about eleven miles, will be surprised,
while admiring the manifold beauties of the
scenery, that it was not chosen for the erection
of his ch&teau. Here we have an extensive
estate, abounding with some of the most sublime
and lovely scenery in the Crimea. A stupendous
chain of rocks, in all their grotesque forms,
clothed to the summit with the finest foliage,
protects this highly favoured spot from violent
winds, particularly the cold, chilling blasts of the
north. Before us lies extended the wide, expan-
sive Euxine, with its many bays, lofty precipices
and promontories ; while, to the right and left,
the eye wanders with delight through the fertile
valley of Yalta, with its rolling stream, Tartar
villages, noble bay, and pretty town. Moreover,
this fine estate has all the advantage of having
in great part a fertile soil, watered by several
mountain torrents; — here rushing through a
deep gorge, there meandering through a tiny
valley, then dashing downwards from the dizzy
heights of a craggy rock, with the loud roar of a

388 SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

waterfall. Nor are these the only attractions of
Marsanda ; for, besides extensive corn-fields^ pas-
tures, and vineyards, there are virgin forests, com-
posed of the wild vine, the fig, the pomegranate,
the oak, the beech, and chesnut, together with
innumerable parasitical plants, forming graceful
garlands from tree to tree, all planted by the
hand of Nature, and admirably harmonising their
various tints and shades. How often, while rid-
ing over this beautiful and picturesque estate, I
vainly wished to be possessed of the power of a
magician ! Then would I have removed the neat
little villa of Marsanda to Aloupka, so adapted to
adorn its diminutive pleasure-grounds, and placed
its magnificent chateau here. Count W. then
might proudly say he possessed the finest cha-
teau, and the most picturesesque park and
grounds, in the empire.

The south coast of the Crimea, as I before
remarked, abounds with the country seats of
some of the highest aristocratical families in the
Russian empire ; but the style of the architec-
ture, and laying out of the grounds, remind an
Englishman so forcibly of the cockney villas,
with their flower-gardens, in the environs of
London, that he is almost led to believe the
noble proprietors must have taken them for
their models. A flower-garden is undoubtedly

PARK OF THE EMPEROR AT ORIANDA. 389

a very pretty ornament ; but while we sit in the
rich saloon of a prince, with the eternal prospect
from its windows of beds of bachelors' buttons,
sweetwilliam, orange-flowers, and daffadown-
dillies, their poverty and insignificance, at least,
does not correspond with the rank and wealth of
the proprietor, nor say much for his taste in
landscape gardening. I must not also forget the
little groves of cypresses, a most favourite tree
with the Russians, and no doubt interesting to
all northern people, connected as it is with the
description of the gardens and cemeteries of the
Orientals ; yet, when planted for the purpose of
ornamenting a pleasure-ground, in long, straight
rows, their dark shades, to say nothing of their
most unpicturesque form, throw a dismal gloom
over the whole landscape, and never failed to
remind me of a Turkish cemetery, and that man
is born to die.

To this sweeping censure there are, however,
several redeeming exceptions : for, in addition
to that of Count Worrenzow, there is the gentle-
manly villa and fine park belonging to the Count
de Witt, together with the elegant mansion and
well laid-out grounds of General Leon Nariskin :
but, above all, the extensive and beautiful park
of the emperor at Orianda everywhere indicates
the tasteful hand of the landscape gardener, does

390 SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

our countryman Mr. Boss every credit, and
cannot be too highly eulogised. Here I saw,
perhaps, the finest Arbutus Andrackne existing,
measuring not less than ten feet in circum-
ference. Mr. Ross considers it a different spe-
cies from any we have in England. The juniper
is of equally gigantic proportions, and everj-
where grows wild, and generally out of a cleft
of the rocks. Notwithstanding this, the Crimea
is by no means famous for the growth of trees :
the oak, and every other species of forest- trees,
are far inferior in size and beauty to our own in
England ; and in the lowlands, called the Steppe,
they altogether perish, after a brief existence
of a year or two. ^ The vine is very mnch oul-
tivated on the south coast; and though it has
the advantage of a fine situation and good cli-
mate, yet the produce is not commensurate with
the labour of the vine-dresser ; nor does the wine
bear a high character, either for flavour or
strength. The various garden fruits are excellent
of their kind, particularly the apples, which are
so highly esteemed as to form an article of com*
merce even to Moscow.

Immediately on my return from Bagtehe-
Serai, I was invited by the Count de Witt to a
fite champHre at his country-seat, Orianda ; and
as it was intended to be very grand, with the

FETE CHAMPETRE. 391

accompaniments of illumination and fireworks, I
may perhaps be allowed this time, from the
novelty of the entertainments, to trespass upon
your patience, and give a detailed description.

In every country, music, dancing, and illumi-
nations are most attractive. On this occasion we
had an immense assemblage, and I wondered not
a little where they had all come from. Besides
the courtly dames elegantly attired, and their
high-bom cavaliers decked with the jewelled
order, there were a number of pretty girls, in
their light muslin dressed, and young aides-de-
camp and officers of every rank in the army and
navy, which always gives a cheerful tone to so-
ciety. When the majority of the guests were
arrived, and just as the shades of night had com-
pletely replaced the light of day, the whole of
our party sallied forth to the park, escorted by
a number of domestics bearing torches. After
passing through a deep, gloomy defile, we all at
once emerged into a most romantic little pad-
dock, completely encircled by a chain of rocks,
of stupendous elevation, the whole brilliantly
illuminated with myriads of variegated lamps ;
at the same time, thousands of rockets, in all
their bizarre forms, were flying about in every
direction, — now lighting up the vast Euxine,
and then the dizzy heights above.

392 SOUTH COAST OP THE CRIMEA.

la addition to this, the count's yacht, lying in
the bay, was hung with lamps, every moment
changing from one fanciful device to another ;
while the loud roar of cannon echoed and re-
echoed, far and wide, through the glens and
rocks. Pretty tents of the most graceful forms
were erected for taking refreshment ; during
which the most exquisite music sweetly sounded
through the air, (the performers completely con-
cealed from view,) giving to the whole a super-
natural cast, as if created by enchantment.

From hence we passed into another of these
little romantic spots ; then through grottoes and
caverns, all similarly illuminated, with tents and
tables laid out with every description of light
refreshment ; and, be it remembered, all this in
a climate with a sky perfectly cloudless. After
remaining in this fairy land till about midnight,
we returned to the count's villa, where dancing
and card-playing was carried on till Aurora
summoned us to our homes.

Adieu I

END OF VOL. I.

LONDON :
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